What kind of welding machines you guys have ? Anyone got a Miller multimatic 220?

[Doggggboy]

You are a sick man. First, by your own admission, you sound like a real sicko playing a musical instrument and now you claim that soldering can be a real joy with the right tools.....

I can solder with the best of them and I have some great soldering tools. But I still hate soldering. It's right up there with using the best tools to pick up dog poop.

Just yesterday I repaired some sprayer electronics for a neighbour who had pulled a male blade out of the circuit board. It's a 12 handed job. My wife helped hold the parts I couldn't hold with clips while I replaced the blade. Her telling observation was: "I think I'd rather be poked in the eye with a sharp stick than do that."

Hey now!
Dog poop is one of the best ways to tell if your dog is healthy.
No poop for more than a day....go to the vet. Possible blockage
Tarry poop...go to the vet. Possible internal bleeding.
Runny poop... give some canned pumpkin. The wonder drug for gastro issues.
Bloody poop...... cooked rice or pumpkin and wait for a change.
Poop with a Barbie head in it....call the owner and tell them to make the kids put away the toys.
Poop with a tiny green g-string... St Patrick's day.
Poop with a Wunderbar wrapper in it... Hallowe'en
After 20 years of running a kennel, my Google photos album is quite appalling,

 

[graig]

I have Everlast TIG and Plasma cutter. They are great. I'd like to get one of their MIG units to replace my entry level Lincoln.

 

[CWret]

I'm a bit late to the party here as a new member but I am adding a couple of comments:
- Multi-process welder comparison
In early 2019 I did a lot of research before upgrading my trusty old Thermal Arc 180 to an AC/DC multi-process machine (I wanted to be able to do TIG aluminum). I compared the Miller Multimatic 220AC/DC (first choice), ESAB Rebel EMP205ic AC/DC (2nd place) and the Everlast 221STi AC/DC (3rd place). There is no bad choices here! Miller has excellent service, reputation and customer satisfaction and is super easy to use/learn. ESAB is very close behind the Miller with more flexability but not as easy to use/learn. The Everlast was first to offer an AC/DC unit, it has a very good reputation and a great price point but the cost of entry was not my focus. As an aside, I also considered the Fronius TranSteel 2200 - it's an awesome machine, built in Austria with no China parts (like the others have). I tried out both the Miller and Fronius at their respective Mississauga head offices (both were very helpful and willing to let me strike an arc for an hour or so at their training facilities). The TranSteel jumped to first place but without AC/DC it got put out by the Miller. After 3+ years I'm very happy with my choice.
FYI - Using the Miller (and lots of youtube) I taught myself TIG aluminum before buying their Spoolmate150 spoolgun. The TIG aluminum learning curve is long, tough, and expensive, but I'm glad I can do both (not that well, but acceptable).
- Welding hoods
I had a couple of cheapies then a fairly good Miller Classic. Then I upgraded to an Optrel e684 which was later upgraded to an Optrel Panoramaxx. It is expensive, yes (very expensive) - but so are my eyes. It is an absolutely awesome hood (for TIG it is terrific). A couple of weeks ago I tried out their new Panoramaxx CLT for an afternoon. It's even better!
- Plasma cutter
I saw other posts from a while ago about cutters so I'm adding my 2 cents here. A year ago I got a Hypertherm 45XP. I'm very happy with my choice. Arguably the best there is and also the most expensive but I think it is worth the extra coin. I had considered the 30XP but now realize the extra $s for the 45XP was the right way to go.

Really enjoying this forum
Thanks guys
Craig

 

[Chris Cramer]

I used to have a miller multimatic 215, that was my first welder but it just recently stopped working again. I had to get the control board replaced about 3 years ago, and it just so happens that that is what they say must be done again. My uncle was the lead engineer at Shaw for many years so I'm beginning to wonder if the control board could be repaired rather than replaced, because a new board costs $1300. If that cant be done then I'll continue saving up for a new multimatic 220. I could already afford a new 215, but I also think that it would be worth it to save for the 220 by how many processes it has.

 

[Chris Cramer]

I also replaced my everlast power plasma 50s with the Hypertherm 45xp. I'm also happy with my choice, especially when you have a CNC plasma table to use it with.

 

[Former Member]

You are a sick man. First, by your own admission, you sound like a real sicko playing a musical instrument and now you claim that soldering can be a real joy with the right tools.....

I can solder with the best of them and I have some great soldering tools. But I still hate soldering. It's right up there with using the best tools to pick up dog poop.

Just yesterday I repaired some sprayer electronics for a neighbour who had pulled a male blade out of the circuit board. It's a 12 handed job. My wife helped hold the parts I couldn't hold with clips while I replaced the blade. Her telling observation was: "I think I'd rather be poked in the eye with a sharp stick than do that."

Just read this post, what you need is paste flux, basically a flux that holds the parts in place as you apply heat and solder, that and a few alligator clips.

Sorry I solder way too much in the range if several lbs of solder per year all electronic related by hand.

 

[Susquatch]

Just read this post, what you need is paste flux, basically a flux that holds the parts in place as you apply heat and solder, that and a few alligator clips.

Sorry I solder way too much in the range if several lbs of solder per year all electronic related by hand.

I used to solder way more than that. I don't anymore. I avoid it if possible.

Solder flux (including paste flux) is not a temporary adhesive. It's function is to chemically prepare the surface of the target metal, remove surface oxidation, prevent new heat related surface oxidation, and improve wetting - spreading the liquid solder across the metal surface to allow the molecules of the solder to bond to the molecules of the target metals.

If you read the earlier parts of that thread you will see that this particular comment of mine was also mostly an attempt at humour.

 

[Former Member]

I used to solder way more than that. I don't anymore. I avoid it if possible.

Solder flux (including paste flux) is not a temporary adhesive. It's function is to chemically prepare the surface of the target metal, remove surface oxidation, prevent new heat related surface oxidation, and improve wetting - spreading the liquid solder across the metal surface to allow the molecules of the solder to bond to the molecules of the target metals.

If you read the earlier parts of that thread you will see that this particular comment of mine was also mostly an attempt at humour.

I assumed humuor was intended.

That said, some of the newer fluxes are actually a combination of both, flux properties and all that it entails and temporary adhesive prior to soldering. My source for flux and solder is distrubutor for one of the best Leadfree solders out there. Been using it for about 18 years when I got into surface mount builds and serious production.

While Rohs has changed the industry some of its replacements products have added even more danger.

 

[jcdammeyer]

There's something (not sure what) rewarding when hand assembling a surface mount board and having it work first time. This is a photo from 2009. Nowadays I find I shake a bit for the first one until the muscle memory kicks back in.

 

[jcdammeyer]

And for welding I used to use a cheap auto darkening with solar charging but found it was getting slow at switching on the first spark. So I splurged and bought a good one. Not that I weld that often.

 

[CWret]

I used to have a miller multimatic 215, that was my first welder but it just recently stopped working again. I had to get the control board replaced about 2 years ago, and it just so happens is what they say must be done again. My uncle was the lead engineer at Shaw for many years so I'm beginning to wonder if the control board could be repaired rather than replaced, because a new board costs $1300. If that cant be done then I'll continue saving up for a new multimatic 220. I could already afford a new 215, but I also think that it would be worth it to save for the 220 by how many processes it has.

That is somewhat disturbing to hear about your problems with your 215. One of the main reasons I went with Miller was their (better-than-average) reputation for good reliability. I'd be very disappointed if my 220 had a similar system failure. I attended Fabtech in Toronto a couple of months ago and I spent considerable time at the Fronius booth. Their TranSteel (as I said above) is an awesome machine that gives lots of versatility for a multi-process machine - but no AC TIG. Again, as I said above, Fronius was very willing to show off their machine and you may want to give them a visit (by the way, the TransSteel is less expensive than a Miller 220) Although my 220 has been problem free and I am happy with it - I sometimes think that a good MIG machine and a good TIG machine might have been a better way to go. Two machines are more expensive than one multi-process but there are many advantages. Multi-process machines come with compromises and less versatility. Multi-process machines are well suited to hobby guys (like me) and are not intended for professional welders. I've been on the hunt for a milling machine. When I first started looking I thought a combo lathe/mill would be a great choice for my small shop (Smithy Granite, King KC 1620CLM, Craftex CX615, etc). I now see them as having too many compromises and don't do either operation very well. The multi-process welder, on the other hand, is a much better marriage.

Craig

 

[Tom O]

I have the Millermatic 130 (.023 wire) I bought for $50 it was’nt working and I had to replace the capacitor bank upgrading the capacitors to ones fo a 210 or something around there.




I have this for anything else it’s a Miller 351 so it runs on 220 volts

 

[CWret]

@Chris Cramer - back to your original question. The Miller220 is an awesome multi-purpose machine. Really easy to learn and very easy to use. It make beginners look good and it has lots of flexibility/settings/adjustments to help you tackle more difficult situations as your skill level improves. I particularly like the pro-set. It is so easy to get you started when changing types of welds. It’s great for MIG. My TIG ability is still a learning experience and the 220 is a big help.
I also really like the way it will switch between processes. TIG to MIG to TIG to MIG. The TIG torch can be connected at the same time as the MIG gun. Example: You tack a piece with TIG and then pick up the MIG gun. Just pull the trigger and it immediately switches to your last MIG setting and you’re doing MIG. No changing gas lines. No polarity concerns. No nothing. Awesome!

I am very happy with my Miller 220. It’s been a joy to use and certainly helped me become a better welder. I smile whenever i fire it up. So to answer your original question: Should you save up to get the 220 vs the 215? In my opinion - YES!

Oh yea - i wish it came with a longer MIG gun. It’s only 10ft (really Miller !! just 10 ft). I’m about to up grade to a 15 ft CM. I also plan to up grade the TIG torch to a CWS Flexloc but Miller’s is just ok - so no big hurry.

 

[Chris Cramer]

My 215 did last for more than 5 years, and it was pretty reliable. Even if the control board could be repaired or replaced for a cheaper price, I'm thinking it would still be better to get a new machine because of how old it is. I did some research on other multiprocess machines like the ESAB 205.ic. At first I thought about purchasing that instead of the 220 because of its higher flexibility and higher duty cycle; however, Miller's pro set feature would be far more beneficial to me when I get back into AC TIG. The feature you mentioned about how it can run MIG or TIG with both set up and plugged in would also be very handy, and the lower duty cycle only comes when stick welding, which I don't use often. In my opinion the 220 is much more suitable for a smaller shop or hobbyist, the ESAB 205.ic is simply a more industrial welder.

 

[Chris Cramer]

I used to solder way more than that. I don't anymore. I avoid it if possible.

I technically only use solder wen making jewelry which is done with a torch, or when fabricating/ repairing electronics with an iron. Soldering jewelry is closer to brazing depending on how hard the solder is, because you are pretty much melting filler metal onto the surface of heated metal. Ever since I lost my welder I've been using my oxy fuel torch to torch weld or braze my projects. Torch welding and brazing are pretty similar to tig welding without a foot pedal, only it is much more difficult to prevent porosity without a wider curtain of shielding gas. The outer flame/ combusted gas is what shields the weld, but it is much smaller.

 

[CWret]

These are comparisons of the ESAB205 and M220 by Baker's Gas

This one is a 6 minute sales pitch by Miller - it's well done.


fun but tough choices @Chris Cramer. For me there isn't enough room or $ for everything!!

Either the ESAB or Miller would be great choices. The 220 is on sale at KMS Tools $500 off list. Their sales flyer this month for the 205 is really a great price with $1380 off list (but KMS is in Alberta). I mostly deal with Air Liquide & they usually can come very close to price matching but then I have bought quite a bit from them.
When I did my comparison I almost went with the ESAB - but the Miller is much more common with parts and consumables available everywhere. Consumables and parts for the ESAB are more expensive but the ESAB has a wider range for frequency, DC pulse and AC balance. They both have 2 gas ports so switching processes is easy (Miller is very easy & quick). IMO the ESAB is a great TIG machine that is also good at MIG and the Miller is a great MIG machine that can also do TIG. (80% of my welding is MIG which is why I really liked the Fronius TranSteel - oooops another choice). My trip to Miller's training center in Mississauga was the deciding factor and why I have the 220. They (there was only 3 of us there, 2 tech reps and myself) gave me a demo and instructions. I used the 220 for over an hour with them giving me pointers along the way. I was doing mostly TIG because that was the first time I'd held a TIG torch. They were awesome.
Not sure where you are located - I'm in Burlington. You can come try my 220 if you'd like.

Craig

 

[Chris Cramer]

I do live in Alberta, in Calgary, kms is where I buy most of my tools, and I am looking between their deal on the 220, and Kristian electric's offer for the 220. I do more tig than mig because I like the slower paced flexible control you have over the weld pool, and I work with fairly thin metal. In comparison to the ESAB how well does the 220 do DC TIG? I have a good idea of proper settings for DC TIG (non pulse) but I haven't used pulse, or AC for about 6 years since I graduated.

 

[CWret]

My knowledge of the ESAB is limited to what i leaned on the www so i can’t be much help there.

 

[Chris Cramer]

I ended up purchasing the multimatic 220 ac dc for the long run. I've tested the dc mig and tig including the pulse. The tig with high frequency start holds a very stable arc, and the mig on mild steel goes very fast. I just received it on Saturday, so I haven't worked with the settings very much, or used the ac tig at all. I'm definitely more satisfied with this welder than my oxy acetylene torch for welding, maybe even for welding brass or copper.

 

[jcdammeyer]

This is what I have: The Lincoln SP-175 Plus.

https://www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/servicenavigator-public/lincoln3/IM790.pdf

I also have oxy-acet with single stage regulators. Really wish I'd had the funds at the time to buy the dual stage. I took the NAIT night school gas welding course many decades ago. At that time the thickest coupons we learned to weld together were 1/4" flat plate. And for 1/4" we had to be able to weld it both vertically and horizontally.