# car battery chargers



## PeterT (Feb 13, 2021)

Soliciting thoughts from you auto experts. I'm pretty sure my sons truck has a slow short somewhere, we have gone through a battery per year the past 3 years. It doesn't help matters that its been very cold he doesn't start it every 2 weeks, but I wont air my family laundry. I used to boost but getting less keen about that. AMA is booked until July-2024 (kidding but seems that way). Anyways I'm thinking a charger might be worthwhile. 
There are many new fangled digital products out there but reading the reviews, not all of them are great. Some don't like charging in cold, which is typically when you need them. Some claim certain amp capability but people say inflated numbers. And I read some chargers just say no & blink error if battery level is too low. But then they plug in a different brand & away it charges which makes me wonder if its a safety thing or charger limitation.

- any recs of what to get or what to avoid? 
- is it possible to buy too much amp delivery? More amps = less charging time but for example 75A charger output but safe/recommended 12V rate shouldn't exceed  50A? (just making up numbers I have no idea)
- why is 24v a thing, do them mean like RV battery use or the charging voltage can go up from nominal 12?

I was looking for old school manual switch & needle meter style like this for example
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/lincoln-electric-55a-century-charger-10-2-55a-/1000721724

What about these styles? Am I interpreting correct its a 30A charger but you click to 100A boost & try to start off that like cables to another car battery? 
https://www.amazon.ca/Schumacher-SC...ds=12v+battery+charger&qid=1613269767&sr=8-16


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 13, 2021)

Charging DC batteries is a complicated subject. I spend hours researching DC charging system design when I had my sailboat which relied on two group 27 deep cycle AGM batters for lights etc and one group 24 'starter' battery for starting the diesel.
DC batteries take a charge quickly at the beginning of a charge cycle but can take hours to become fully charged.
More amps does not necessarily = faster charging time because there is a limit to how much and how fast the battery can accept.
Too much, too quickly can cause damage to the battery.
And a battery that is too low, say 11v or less will likely not accept a charge.




(https://www.chargepoint.com/blog/how-dc-fast-charging-really-works-and-intro-charging-curves/)


----------



## DPittman (Feb 13, 2021)

Is a low amp battery maintainer style charger a possibility?  That means it is plugged in all the time.  They provide a small trickle charge (1-2 amps) and most have an over charge protection.  I have "permanently" mounted battery maintainer charger style under the hood of vehicles.  I like to trickle charge the battery when I need to plug the block heater in.  

Another option that might work is a solar charger system.   

I have both of the above types on batteries that do mostly sitting and like both styles in their appropriate applications.

A low charged battery ( or dead battery) is very hard on the life of a battery. 

I think all modern vehicles have a low amperage draw at all times ( computers, clocks, etc) but I would expect a healthy battery would maintain that draw for at least a month or more.  Cold weather dramatically reduces a batteries potential. 

Yes you can overcharge a battery with both amps and time.  

I have a battery charger that does 6, 12, 18 and 24 volt.  I had read several years ago that 12 volt systems in vehicles were going to fade away as the modern electronics required more power....I don't see any evidence of that happening yet ????


----------



## MW/MC (Feb 13, 2021)

I got this one 7 ish years ago at Costco thought it was a bit gimmicky , how ever is the best I have had yet in my experience,
It does not have a start feature, but has a maintenance function for weathered batteries!
It works fantastic has 
2a ,6a ,10a, 12a , 15a
Charging I have always used the 2amp charge 
Anyways that’s my 25cents worth


----------



## YYCHM (Feb 13, 2021)

A battery a year????  How are you determining that the batteries are bad?

That week of -26/30C caught up with you eh?  I ended up having to boost my truck (with my 75amp boost charger) on Friday and it had only sat for a day without being started.  Block heater was on a 4 hour cycle timer.

I think it's time for a new battery on that one it's 10 years old now

Smart chargers with boost only boost if it determines the engine is cranking.  How it determines that I haven't a clue.


----------



## CalgaryPT (Feb 13, 2021)

I have 4 or 5 chargers, including a big one on wheels. I like the Optima intelligent one the best, but is is expensive. The big manual ones let you also boost, which is nice—but you do need to babysit them and they can destroy a battery if left unattended. It is true that the newer "smart" chargers can be too smart and refuse to charge if the battery is too low. You can trick it by adding a second battery (almost at charge) in parallel for a while.

WRT the actual problem, you need to do a load test on the battery (meters available at Princess Auto) and have the alternator checked at a shop. You used to be able to test the diodes on them yourself, but this is difficult now. Also possible the vehicle has a fault that is drawing power; those are a PIA to trace.

If you are in a bind Peter, I can loan you my large charger and load test meter. Let me know. A temporary solution is a small inexpensive battery tender that trickle charges the battery and keeps it topped up. There are even solar versions. I have both; if you want more info let me know.


----------



## RobinHood (Feb 13, 2021)

This is not a comment about chargers (as I don’t know enough about them), but rather about an “operational procedure” we have employed since we had the same battery discharge trouble.

We have 3 vehicles that don’t see regular use. We adopted the strategy of disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery after use if the vehicle won’t be used within 2 days. As part of the pre-trip walk around, we reconnect the battery. Takes only 30 sec. All problems went away.


----------



## DPittman (Feb 13, 2021)

RobinHood said:


> This is not a comment about chargers (as I don’t know enough about them), but rather about an “operational procedure” we have employed since we had the same battery discharge trouble.
> 
> We have 3 vehicles that don’t see regular use. We adopted the strategy of disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery after use if the vehicle won’t be used within 2 days. As part of the pre-trip walk around, we reconnect the battery. Takes only 30 sec. All problems went away.


That is an option provided power is not needed for any security systems, door, clock/trunk/hood locks.  I have a vehicle that the back hatch won't open without power.
A convenient alternative to removing negative terminal is a battery disconnect switch.  They also work as a theft deterent  device. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-quick-disconnect-battery-terminal-0113507p.html


----------



## Crankit (Feb 13, 2021)

Peter

That first one you linked from Home Depot don't do long term charging worth a damn, You'll usually cook the transformer in them. 

Battery tenders are a better option, one that puts out more than the draw while parked or as suggested above a battery disconnect.

Today's vehicles suck amps like mad moving down the road

Check out ProjectFarm on YouTube for some good charger reviews.


----------



## eotrfish (Feb 13, 2021)

Peter

Does your son’s truck happen to be a Ford product??


----------



## YYCHM (Feb 13, 2021)

eotrfish said:


> Peter
> 
> Does your son’s truck happen to be a Ford product??



Why do you ask that?

We have a 2011 F150 that does weird stuff when the temp dips low, like anti-theft going off when we attempt to remote start.


----------



## eotrfish (Feb 13, 2021)

Asking because the problem sounds a lot like a problem I had with a seldom used Explorer.  After replacing countless batteries over 20 years it turned out to be a faulty battery saver relay.  It turns out that many Ford products use a battery saver relay to limit power consumption after a set period (around 30 min).  A faulty relay will allow a high parasitic drain.  The best I could do was 2 weeks without starting - otherwise the battery charge was too low to start the vehicle.  A simple check of the parasitic draw will tell if the relay is the problem.  Connect an amp meter in series with the negative terminal and monitor the draw.  Since the relay is controlled by the GEM you’ll have to wait for the GEM to turn off the relay (about 30 min) to get a true value of the parasitic draw.  There’s plenty of info on the web but I could’t find out if other vehicle brands use this system.


----------



## YYCHM (Feb 13, 2021)

Was just perusing CT for a battery and came across this....

APPLICATON NOTES - Vehicle computer system must be reset and battery registered using scan tool.

What does that mean????


----------



## PeterT (Feb 13, 2021)

Thanks for the good info.
Yes, 2002 Ford 150 Lariat. Interesting about the relay
I never thought of a terminal disconnect, good idea there.
Its on charge now, neighbor had one. We'll see if it takes tomorrow AM. 
I suspect if the voltage drifts to low/flat, its not healthy for chemistry.


----------



## YYCHM (Feb 13, 2021)

Don't cheap out on a charger.  The less expensive ones don't last more than 5 years.  I'm on my 3rd or 4th one now.


----------



## ShawnR (Feb 14, 2021)

I have an older version of this one. 

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...y-charger-with-80a-engine-start-0111979p.html

I got on a battery charger kick a few years ago when I was playing with microcontrollers and wanted to build my own smart charger. I learned a bit about the charging theories but at the end of the day, I ended up buying that one and it has been great. I figured no use in reinventing the wheel. It is a large step up from the old transformer based chargers, although they still serve a purpose.

I installed a battery maintainer, as suggested above, on an aerial ladder at work several years ago. We had new radios installed and the radios would not transmit if the battery was below a certain value, which was higher than what the battery typically sat at. The get around was to start the ladder in the station after a failed radio check. So every morning, radio check would fail for that unit. After the maintainer was installed, no more problems. So I think a maintainer is a good resolve, if you need to. Firetrucks are plugged in to keep the air pressure up anyways so it was just matter of mounting the charger somewhere and routing the wires in a way that throwing helmets and gear into the cab would not break a connection. The truck was due to be replaced and the mechanics did not want to put new batteries into it (or spend much time or money on it if we did not have to) A trickle charger is a band aid though, imho. Vehicles should be able to sit for months and not require boosting. As suggested, there could be an excessive draw somewhere but I think unlikely unless something is not working properly. If the summer time, water in a light socket but this time of year.....  You say son....has anyone installed stereo equipment or accessories? If they were installed to connect before the accessory option on the ignition switch, then maybe the parasitic drain from those are changing the original electical needs of the truck. But again, a check of vehicle off, load check, might reveal this.

 It could also be a bad connection somewhere so that when your battery gets to the point where it is not delivering 110% of what is considered a good battery ie >1 year, the bad connection robs your starter system of having enough energy to turn it over. The connection can be a cable connector end (any fuzzy stuff on them?), a weak solenoid or the contacts in it, weak starter, etc. 

As suggested, have your battery tested. Canadian tire will do this for free for you. Is it the right size battery for that vehicle? Say it was replaced with a slightly small one years ago, and then each year, you take it in and ask for a replacement. Each year, buying a small one. The excessive load on a "too small" battery will cause it to become weak over time too. 

I am a GM guy so would love to bash Fords, but then this thread would divert away from the original question...  But seriously, a 2002 Ford truck should not be eating batteries like that. I doubt it is an excessive draw (but it could be. Some good answers as to troubleshoot for that have been posted.) 

I lean towards connections, or electrical components in the starting system/charging system. 

Good luck! 
Cheers, 
Shawno


----------



## DPittman (Feb 14, 2021)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Was just perusing CT for a battery and came across this....
> 
> APPLICATON NOTES - Vehicle computer system must be reset and battery registered using scan tool.
> 
> What does that mean????


I had 2011 F150 that I was told by the "stealership" that the computer had to be told that I put in a new battery for the charging system to work properly.  I was so flabbergasted at the stupidity of such a requirement.  I replaced the battery myself and I do believe I had some sort of charging system code show for a short time but things fixed themselves in short order and were fine as long as I owned the truck.  I never did any sort of reset.


----------



## CalgaryPT (Feb 14, 2021)

DPittman said:


> I had 2011 F150 that I was told by the "stealership" that the computer had to be told that I put in a new battery for the charging system to work properly.  I was so flabbergasted at the stupidity of such a requirement.  I replaced the battery myself and I do believe I had some sort of charging system code show for a short time but things fixed themselves in short order and were fine as long as I owned the truck.  I never did any sort of reset.


That's so interesting. I think that may be because some onboard computer systems track and report maintenance, so they may remind you when it is time to test your battery and/or replace it (like some vehicles tell you % Oil Life remaining). Car batteries generally need replacement every 5 years.

While on the topic...some (but not all) of the error codes and reset issues (clocks, radio stations, seat positions, etc.) can be persevered on some vehicles with those cheap 9V battery change maintainers. They are just a small 9V battery clip that plugs into your power port (i.e., cigarette lighter) and trickles enough juice temporally to maintain your computer's registers while changing the battery. The fly in the ointment is that many vehicles have a diode inline with these ports now so you can't push power back in to them anymore. It's not easy determining if your vehicle has one or not. Some are hardwired right behind the port, but others are on the computer board where you'll never trace it. I just use another battery in parallel somewhere to be safe; you just have to remember that when handling the cables during hook up.

_Looking back on what I just wrote I realize I said, "fly in the ointment." This is like a Progressive Insurance Commercial. I've turned into my parents._


----------



## DPittman (Feb 14, 2021)

CalgaryPT said:


> . I've turned into my parents.


Ha ha that happens doesn't it.  My 11 year daughter just said yesterday " oh my God I'm turning into grandma!"  I reminded her that there were alot worse things she could become.


----------



## Chicken lights (Feb 14, 2021)

CalgaryPT said:


> Car batteries generally need replacement every 5 years.


While this is generally true for cars and light trucks, I don’t get the same lifespan in the big truck. I’ve gotten in the habit of changing them every fall. It’s right around $200-220 for all four batteries once the cores are returned, I consider it cheap insurance for the winter. 
I should probably change the two in my little F350 this year, they’re getting up there. One is around 4 years old the other one who knows how old.


----------



## DPittman (Feb 14, 2021)

Chicken lights said:


> While this is generally true for cars and light trucks, I don’t get the same lifespan in the big truck. I’ve gotten in the habit of changing them every fall. It’s right around $200-220 for all four batteries once the cores are returned, I consider it cheap insurance for the winter.
> I should probably change the two in my little F350 this year, they’re getting up there. One is around 4 years old the other one who knows how old.


Ok I just gotta tell you my story  now....
I used to say once a vehicle battery got to be 5 years old that I shouldn't  be surprised if it would fail.  Small motorcycle and quad batteries would usually never last 5 years.  
A couple of years ago the battery in my minivan turned 10 years old and showed no signs of slowing down but I replaced it because it was fall and I didn't want it failing on my wife.  The battery in my truck right now was bought in 2010.  I thought about replacing it in the fall but I figured I would just wait and see with it.  It has been sitting out unstarted for a week in this cold and I think I will charge it before I even try.

I've had small motorcycle style batteries last 7 years and I chalk that up to have a solar/ trickle charger on them whenever they were in storage.


----------



## CalgaryPT (Feb 14, 2021)

Chicken lights said:


> While this is generally true for cars and light trucks, I don’t get the same lifespan in the big truck. I’ve gotten in the habit of changing them every fall. It’s right around $200-220 for all four batteries once the cores are returned, I consider it cheap insurance for the winter.
> I should probably change the two in my little F350 this year, they’re getting up there. One is around 4 years old the other one who knows how old.


LOL. I'm sure you are right.

I often forget that between you and @Brent H my residential world is waaaay different than heavy duty industries. Actually, I am jealous...every time you guys talk of your adventures with heavy metal I want to be there too  

Sadly, when I look on Indeed I don't see any postings for heavy duty equipment assistants who are almost dead, with failing rotator cuffs, knees, back, elbows, heart, eyes, and want to nap routinely every afternoon. But I will keep looking. I'll also want an orthopaedic back pillow as a condition of employment, but maybe I'll save that request for the interview.


----------



## Chicken lights (Feb 14, 2021)

CalgaryPT said:


> LOL. I'm sure you are right.
> 
> I often forget that between you and @Brent H my residential world is waaaay different than heavy duty industries. Actually, I am jealous...every time you guys talk of your adventures with heavy metal I want to be there too
> 
> Sadly, when I look on Indeed I don't see any postings for heavy duty equipment assistants who are almost dead, with failing rotator cuffs, knees, back, elbows, heart, eyes, and want to nap routinely every afternoon. But I will keep looking. I'll also want an orthopaedic back pillow as a condition of employment, but maybe I'll save that request for the interview.


I’m not kidding in the slightest when I say this. I am going to be hiring a new Geriatric Assistant probably within 2-5 years. My current Geriatric Assistant is 78 now and, well, I hate to say this, he’s slowing down a little. 

Job duties include but not limited to moving vehicles around, light mechanical repair and fabrication, yelling at me that I’m doing it wrong, picking up parts, napping in the shop while “supervising”, napping in the truck waiting, telling stories from before I was born and a running commentary usually involving telling me I’m “#1” or some variation telling me where to go and how to get there. 

Not having a cell phone or working knowledge of a GPS or computer is a bonus, that way any errands the Geriatric Assistant gets sent on are routinely 6 times as hard to accomplish 

Leaving a note on the door is still considered “good communication”

It doesn’t pay much, but the current GA gets free storage in my shop, suppers and coffees, use of a heated passenger seat, use of my shop and free use of my truck and trailers. Plus the GA gets my labour in return free of charge on his projects


----------



## Dusty (Feb 14, 2021)

@Chicken lights, you must have one super fantastic father-in-law, and you don't even provide room and board.  LOL


----------



## Brent H (Feb 14, 2021)

I am getting quite a "charge" out of these battery stories for sure!  hahahahahaha

Our big industrial type ice breaker is now sitting awaiting some programming information to fix a bogus telegraph that is running rogue - I really despise electronics/computer system programming when it fails...argh!

Anyway digressing......, batteries and maintaining them.....

Charger wise I have a very old (maybe 30 years old) Canadian tire jobbie that has 6-12 volt with 2, 10 and 50 amp settings.  Still works quite well but is not "automatic" for shutting off once a battery is full up to speed.

What type of battery are you going to charge?  AGM, Lead Acid, Gel.....this will affect what charger you use and how it goes about charging the battery .

Regular Lead acid you can get away with pretty much throwing 14 volts at 2 amps and you will slowly charge - provided there isn't some issue with the battery.  Overtime the plates in the batteries tend to plug up and the ion transfer is not as efficient, battery amp hour capacity drops and eventually the battery needs constant charge.  You lads out in the prairies can generally experience very cold winters that last for extended periods.  Cold batteries work slower and are not great in the lower temps (below like -20).  If you have a battery that gets very low on charge the electrolyte can freeze.  Once frozen the battery will die very quickly.  If you thaw it and charge it you may or will have issues with dead cells (plates that will not fully charge) - this can lead you to believe you have the battery all set and a few days later it is toast.   

You have to be careful with the Gel, AGM batteries as they need a different charging method and the charger will indicate that is it good to go for those type batteries.  We had a lad hook up the regular charger to an AGM 12 volt for the small boats and it basically ruptured after 1 hour charge and gassed out the winch compartment.  Luckily no one was in the space when it ruptured or they might have had a bad day.  We have gone through a lot of chargers over the years but we still have the big roll out (like @CalgaryPT ) and we have a smaller motor master that is rated for the AGM batteries.

If you have a dead battery in the car and the voltage is less than 9 or so, it may be that you can charge but your battery will never fully recover.  the deep cycles are designed to take the loads to lower voltages and can then be charged back up multiple times.  Car batteries are typically maintained around 12.5 to 13.5 volts and are not really designed to be constantly drained and charged.  @Chicken lights has quite the bank of batteries but they should be able to sustain some drain and recharge as is the requirement of having a large truck and the camper section.

One thing that will help with the cold starts is a battery blanket to keep things warm and those ions flowing around quickly.   If the battery is dying soon after recharge, usually, Crappy tire will load test it for you and see if it is worth saving.  If a new battery is toasting quickly - check for drains in the system, bad grounds, onboard computers not shutting down etc....

Recommended chargers....hmmmm....I have had good luck with the motor master one at Canadian Tire but they do not carry it.

This on is on sale and general all purpose for lead acid/gel and AGM:https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...y-charger-with-80a-engine-start-0111979p.html


----------



## Chicken lights (Feb 14, 2021)

Brent H said:


> I am getting quite a "charge" out of these battery stories for sure!  hahahahahaha
> 
> Our big industrial type ice breaker is now sitting awaiting some programming information to fix a bogus telegraph that is running rogue - I really despise electronics/computer system programming when it fails...argh!
> 
> ...


So maybe you or someone else can answer this-

I had a cobra 2500 watt inverter. I could leave the fridge plugged in on Friday night and on Sunday still start the truck. Modified sine wave, as is the case in most cheap inverters. 

That died, I was told they aren’t worth fixing. 

Found a pure sine wave inverter at Napa for $700 or so, happy days we sailed that ink jet printer off the truck and switched to laser. 

With the exact same fridge, microwave, cables, laptop, etc, I barely get overnight out of the same batteries. New batteries didn’t change it either. Alternator still charging fine. The only difference is the inverter. 
Any insight why? I do notice the fan runs quite a bit on the new inverter


----------



## PeterT (Feb 14, 2021)

We can run house 110v to the parked vehicle to a dedicated maintainer/float charger but.... I'm also wondering about a potential standalone solution like this. Reading the fine print (there is always fine print) looks like the cigarette lighter plug may not facilitate this depending on the plug configuration itself. How could I test that? If ignition off & I cant power a device through plug that means no go? Or is power 'in' a different thing? Are there more sophisticated versions of these that can get directly wired to battery?
https://www.amazon.ca/Sunway-Solar-Maintainer-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B06WP95W51


----------



## YYCHM (Feb 14, 2021)

PeterT said:


> https://www.amazon.ca/Sunway-Solar-Maintainer-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B06WP95W51



Darn, I just threw one of those things out.  Hadn't used it in 20 years so out she went.


----------



## John Conroy (Feb 14, 2021)

In the old days all cigar lighter outlets were fed from the battery without the need for the ignition to be on because they were used to light the occasional cigarette when the key was off. Today people plug every device they can think of into that outlet. It was a major source  of dead battery complaints so all the manufactures have gone to ignition on required to have the outlet powered. That means you can nor longer use the cigar lighter socket to connect a charger to the battery.


----------



## PeterT (Feb 14, 2021)

Thanks John. That's  kind of what I figured. I also heard some had diodes or fuses or something to prevent max amp draw. 
I wonder if there is an upscale permanent solution where its a solar panel power source but wires are routed/connected directly to battery terminals? One would think - but there are probably also reasons why not.

Been looking into the line of smart chargers you mentioned. Its a 110v solution but maybe that's another strategy, just plug it in once a week during cold/dormant periods. Would I be asking for trouble if I made a harness from the the battery to the grill area for the charger (kind of like the block heater plug sticking out for 110v plug).
https://smartercharger.com/collections/vehicle


----------



## CalgaryPT (Feb 14, 2021)

You hard wire it to the battery. Kits like this come with the hardware to do that. Very popular with lots of guys...https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/battery-tender-junior-0-75a-maintainer-0111940p.html


----------



## CalgaryPT (Feb 14, 2021)

Chicken lights said:


> I’m not kidding in the slightest when I say this. I am going to be hiring a new Geriatric Assistant probably within 2-5 years. My current Geriatric Assistant is 78 now and, well, I hate to say this, he’s slowing down a little.
> 
> Job duties include but not limited to moving vehicles around, light mechanical repair and fabrication, yelling at me that I’m doing it wrong, picking up parts, napping in the shop while “supervising”, napping in the truck waiting, telling stories from before I was born and a running commentary usually involving telling me I’m “#1” or some variation telling me where to go and how to get there.
> 
> ...


Doesn't pay MUCH? MUCH???? After 30 years of dealing with politicians and lawyers and flying back and forth to Ottawa to get beaten up publicly...I was thinking I would pay YOU just so I could volunteer and hang out in a shop. We'll have to have beers when this silly Covid thing is over


----------



## Chicken lights (Feb 14, 2021)

CalgaryPT said:


> Doesn't pay MUCH? MUCH???? After 30 years of dealing with politicians and lawyers and flying back and forth to Ottawa to get beaten up publicly...I was thinking I would pay YOU just so I could volunteer and hang out in a shop. We'll have to have beers when this silly Covid thing is over


Perfect! I can afford a beer salary


----------



## John Conroy (Feb 14, 2021)

With the Ctek charger you can leave it connected to the battery at all times, even it it's not plugged in. You can pull the cord out to the grill just like a block heater cord. It can be plugged in 24/7 when the vehicle is parked and it will monitor the battery's state of charge and top up the charge if it drops by 5%. It doesn't use any power from the 110 volt source when not charging. I have used a few different brands of maintainers including Battery Tender and Noco and had inconsistent results. I've been using a Ctek  MXS 5.0 for a couple of years now and I'm happy with it.


----------



## DPittman (Feb 14, 2021)

PeterT said:


> We can run house 110v to the parked vehicle to a dedicated maintainer/float charger but.... I'm also wondering about a potential standalone solution like this. Reading the fine print (there is always fine print) looks like the cigarette lighter plug may not facilitate this depending on the plug configuration itself. How could I test that? If ignition off & I cant power a device through plug that means no go? Or is power 'in' a different thing? Are there more sophisticated versions of these that can get directly wired to battery?
> https://www.amazon.ca/Sunway-Solar-Maintainer-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B06WP95W51
> 
> View attachment 13326


I would think that if you have power flowing to the outlet when vehicle ignition is off you would be okay to power back to the battery but I'm not an expert on diodes and gizmos. It also seems to me that one of my vehicles has power at the outlet for a set period after turning vehicles off but then it goes off eventually, so make sure you don't have that. 
Also realize those little solar chargers are VERY low amperage and really only good at maintaining a well charged battery in the long run.  I have a few of them on small batteries that work very well but they are only seasonally used.


----------



## CalgaryPT (Feb 14, 2021)

The way to test this is to plug the tender into the dash outlet. Disconnect the car battery, plug in the tender to AC power, then test for voltage across the disconnected cables at the battery. If there is voltage there the dash plug does not have a diode and it will work. The risk is that if it does have a diode no power will feed back into the car's computer and you will lose your radio, seat, clock, etc, settings. Personally I would opt for the tender connection directly hardwired to the car battery. Run the 110AV plug through the grill so it comes out next to the block heater cord so you can power both as needed. Then you can forget about it. The dash power outlet and alligator clips are more for temporary use.

Here's a good overview of why many car electrical systems disable power altogether when the ignition is off, and not just with a diode anymore, but with a relay. Again, this is why rather than try to fool around with the cigarette lighter/power plug approach, I favour hardwiring.

https://www.quora.com/Why-don-t-the...ve-constant-power-like-they-did-in-older-cars


----------



## Tom O (Feb 14, 2021)

I believe the outlet behind the console of my Ford 150 is live all the time.


----------



## DPittman (Feb 14, 2021)

Tom O said:


> I believe the outlet behind the console of my Ford 150 is live all the time.


I've got vehicles with live all the time outlets, some with no live outlets and another that has one live outlet all the time.


----------



## Swharfin' (Feb 18, 2021)

Aux. lighter kits are cheap PA, CTC, NAPA you can buy female socket only
Hire a GA heck I are one I'm self employed. X2
And expert too = EX being a has been & SPURT just a drip under pressure


----------

