# Cx601 electrical issues



## thriller007 (Jun 3, 2020)

Bought this project machine in a non-running state. It has the speed control board replaced according to the previous owner. The first thing I found was that the fuse holder was not letting power through. But even when I jump past the fuse holder I don’t seem to get anything. Here’s a picture of the electrical diagram. One odd thing that I saw was that on the bottom left-hand corner of the page it looks like the L line Has the fuse holder. I would assume that the outline would be the black line coming in but the one with the fuse holder is actually white. Does that sound correct to you?


----------



## Janger (Jun 3, 2020)

I wouldn't assume wire colour means anything on the inside of the machine.


----------



## Janger (Jun 3, 2020)

one possible thing to check is the safety switch on the chip guard. If it is not in the right position (not sure if it's open or closed) then the mill won't run.


----------



## RobinHood (Jun 3, 2020)

The fuse should be on the ”L” wire. If it were on the “N” side, there would still be line voltage applied to the circuit even after the fuse has blown.

I would trace all your wires to see what they lead to and how they correlate to the wiring diagram and go from there.


----------



## Janger (Jun 3, 2020)

Just looking at the picture on your other thread it looks like the safety shield has been removed. I think everybody does that. I did. It is mounted on the left side underneath and a bar rotates to open/close a switch. Look at the new ones on the busy bee site and you will see what I mean. That switch governs the mill.


----------



## thriller007 (Jun 3, 2020)

Janger said:


> one possible thing to check is the safety switch on the chip guard. If it is not in the right position (not sure if it's open or closed) then the mill won't run.


Yes the safety guard has been removed and bypassed. The guy said it worked long after that.


----------



## thriller007 (Jun 3, 2020)

RobinHood said:


> The fuse should be on the ”L” wire. If it were on the “N” side, there would still be line voltage applied to the circuit even after the fuse has blown.
> 
> I would trace all your wires to see what they lead to and how they correlate to the wiring diagram and go from there.


It does seem as you can see in this picture that whoever was messing around with the wiring has had these wires off the fuse holder.


----------



## thriller007 (Jun 3, 2020)

This is where all the wires go on the contactor or starter whatever you call it. I tested and I do have 120 V coming in directly from the black wire to the 1L1 And then splits just below that to the A2 connection. A1 connection also has 120 V and the 14 NO has 120 V


----------



## YYCHM (Jun 3, 2020)

Are you using that RF30 bench for your CX?

Craig


----------



## thriller007 (Jun 4, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Are you using that RF30 bench for your CX?
> 
> Craig


Yes I am, it is sitting on it right now. Unless I could find one for the CX.


----------



## YYCHM (Jun 4, 2020)

thriller007 said:


> Yes I am, it is sitting on it right now. Unless I could find one for the CX.



Just checking in case it didn't work with that CX.

Craig


----------



## Johnwa (Jun 4, 2020)

The connection between 1L1 to A2 isn’t in the schematic.  I’m not sure about that one.
First question, when you press the start switch does the relay click?


----------



## thriller007 (Jun 4, 2020)

Johnwa said:


> The connection between 1L1 to A2 isn’t in the schematic.  I’m not sure about that one.
> First question, when you press the start switch does the relay click?


So far no clicking relay but working on it right now. Odd thing is that on the Cx601 schematic it dos not show the forward and reverse switch. I called busy bee to see if I could get a better schematic but could not get through to them. If anyone has a better electrical drawing please post it or tell me where I should be looking on this one. Thanks in advance


----------



## YYCHM (Jun 4, 2020)

Is the wiring diagram you have the same as what is in the product manual posted on the BB website?


----------



## Johnwa (Jun 4, 2020)

I couldn’t find much about that magnetic switch but it looks like these are the connections to the coil.  The start switch, estop and any safety switch should be in that circuit.  As long as that circuit is completed the relay should operate/click.


----------



## RobinHood (Jun 4, 2020)

Here is a link to their website:

https://www.seec.com.tw/Content/Goo...0211875469&MSID=707060237021324271#ad-image-0

and the wiring diagram:


----------



## Johnwa (Jun 4, 2020)

I couldn’t find that schematic but guessed that’s how the lines interconnect.

An Important think to note that the A1 and A2 on the switch are not the same as the A1 and A2 on the control board.


----------



## thriller007 (Jun 4, 2020)

Johnwa said:


> I couldn’t find that schematic but guessed that’s how the lines interconnect.
> 
> An Important think to note that the A1 and A2 on the switch are not the same as the A1 and A2 on the control board.


Thanks so much for all the replies. I did have an electrician buddy come over for a few hours tonight. He made some changes as you can see in the new picture. We have rpms on this thing now. They are a few hundred low but the previous owner said he put new brushes in. Not sure if that would have an effect or not. Either way happy to see this thing turn. Still have to put a new fuse holder in and changed about 6 wire locations but on the right track.


----------



## YYCHM (Jun 4, 2020)

Way to go!  You beat me to getting a machine running.  That RF30 won't be running for another week or two.

Let's see a pic of the machine as it sits on the stand please.

Craig


----------



## thriller007 (Jun 5, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Way to go!  You beat me to getting a machine running.  That RF30 won't be running for another week or two.
> 
> Let's see a pic of the machine as it sits on the stand please.
> 
> Craig


Still have to put in a fuse holder and then will take some work trying to figure out where exactly I will be putting this thing


----------



## YotaBota (Jun 5, 2020)

Well done, was there one main issue or were there multiple wires out of place?


----------



## thriller007 (Jun 5, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> Well done, was there one main issue or were there multiple wires out of place?


Multiple wires out of place plus the fuse issue. I can’t take any credit though it all goes to my electrician buddy that went through a wire by wire


----------



## thriller007 (Jun 5, 2020)

thriller007 said:


> Multiple wires out of place plus the fuse issue. I can’t take any credit though it all goes to my electrician buddy that went through a wire by wire


Sorry forgot to mention the credit given to all you who answered the thread as well to steer us in the right direction. Kudos


----------



## David_R8 (Jun 5, 2020)

Great that you solved the problem. Electrical problems are vexing to me!


----------



## Janger (Jun 5, 2020)

Good stuff.


----------



## Tom O (Jun 6, 2020)

One thing that I realized after frying the brushes was the rear brushes heat up more and the cover has what 4 vent holes so I printed up a cover for a computer fan and haven’t had a problem since. And if you look at the brushes put some shim stock between the brushes and cap if they heat up they fuse and good luck getting them to release or out!


----------



## thriller007 (Jun 6, 2020)

Tom O said:


> One thing that I realized after frying the brushes was the rear brushes heat up more and the cover has what 4 vent holes so I printed up a cover for a computer fan and haven’t had a problem since. And if you look at the brushes put some shim stock between the brushes and cap if they heat up they fuse and good luck getting them to release or out!View attachment 9534


What model do you have there Tom? I see the front plate is off and you have some other interesting stuff on there.


----------



## Tom O (Jun 6, 2020)

It’s a Cx601 with a Dro Pros 4 axis readout there is only 3 read outs but you have the option of combining the quill with the z axis With the push of a button.
The front cover I made while fitting the sending rail and no modifications had to be made to the original design just adapters. You can see the cooling fan 3D print on top.


----------



## Tom O (Jun 6, 2020)

PS The switch on the side is for a Led light ring from Princess Auto.


----------



## YYCHM (Jun 6, 2020)

A 3-Axis display with 4 inputs eh.  What make and model is it?


----------



## Tom O (Jun 6, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> A 3-Axis display with 4 inputs eh.  What make and model is it?


It’s a EL400 by Dro Pros with magnetic rails it’s about 800 bucks though a lot for a extra axis!


----------



## thriller007 (Jun 6, 2020)

Tom O said:


> It’s a Cx601 with a Dro Pros 4 axis readout there is only 3 read outs but you have the option of combining the quill with the z axis With the push of a button.
> The front cover I made while fitting the sending rail and no modifications had to be made to the original design just adapters. You can see the cooling fan 3D print on top.


Nice, do you remember what size scales you used? Also would there be a Dif in size between going magnetic and going glass? and lastly how many RPM do you get out of yours in high gear?


----------



## YYCHM (Jun 6, 2020)

Tom O said:


> It’s a EL400 by Dro Pros with magnetic rails it’s about 800 bucks though a lot for a extra axis!



$800  Not gonna happen


----------

