# The swarf shop



## Bradells (Jul 7, 2020)

Well, I thought I'd log my progress in making impressive swarf piles here! Lucky you!


I don't have much of equipment, a dull hacksaw, and a Sherline 4400 lathe for making circularish objects, and a milling column, so then I can change into making straightish objects that remain after I make my glorious piles of swarf, chips, strings ....


A few weeks ago, I was out making chips in the sun (oh, I machine outside since I don't have a garage), and my 20 year old sewing belt was starting to really crack, and slip. So I carried on, knowing I was smart 20 years ago in my teens to buy 2 belts when the last one went!

Well, the first belt lasted about an hour as I was making piles of chips from some 1" 6061 into a long .165" piece of 6061. Those were glorious chips, as I just got a set of carbide tools (and spent quite a while squaring, flattening, and adjusting said tools to hold the carbide inserts securely ... there was gaps in the tool over .010")

Well, that first belt went, and the 20 year old new belt went on with no fuss.

About 15 minutes later, that belt, well, it disappeared! I was thinking it flung away somewhere into the garden beds like the last one, but I couldn't find it.

So off to the internets to source a sewing machine store that sold belts...... Of the few that do machine repair's, none were open to the public, unless you ordered it online (....which was fruitless as they don't have an online store ...).

Atlas in Toronto has them, for $15 a piece with $40 shipping ... Oh well, off to Acklands website and found a suitable belt. .25" wide, 12" long for $6 and no shipping charges....





Fast forward 2 weeks, it arrives! Fast forward another week after some vacation time away from the city, and I come back to start making glorious piles of 6061 and 303 ....

I found belt #2 in a pile of the pulley cover, and wrapped around the spindle ... ok, that explains why I couldn't find it in the garden.




I start putting the new belt in, about to put it around the main spindle, and found it was too short! grrr.


Some more searching, found out it actually is a metric belt (300mm), but the manufacturer put up the imperial 'equivalents' for size .... Find the manufacture of the belt, $6US, sweet, set up an account, and they want $60 for shipping!


OK ... time to bite the bullet and order from Sherline for $8 a belt ... get 2 because well, belts break, and pick up some more small items while I'm at it that I can't find elsewhere.

Just got a notice of shipment from Sherline, 1 day turnaround at the moment (for in stock items vs the 14 day mentioned on their website for international).....


Progress?


Brad


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## CalgaryPT (Jul 7, 2020)

If you have any money left over, a trip to the liquor store sounds well deserved.

Kudos for persistence.


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## YYCHM (Jul 7, 2020)

Hey, post an image of your machines please and the swarf.

Craig


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## Bradells (Jul 7, 2020)

So while I wait for my belts to make it across the boarder, I thought I'd try my luck at repairing a DTI that I've had from day 1.

It's your run of the mill .030" x .0005" DTI, and it works fantastic .... although the dial arm has been bent since day 1.




It's bent about .0003" nothing too crazy, and I usually use just the tip for reference, but it does get annoying, and it causes it's own kind of parallax when viewing off to the side.

So, why not figure out how to get into the bezel?

The whole bezel moves (top and bottom), so that will have to come off somehow. The only access I can see is from the side via 4 small screws.





Inside is the lever mechanism that converts linear movement into a radial movement.





It's in the way to see what's what inside, so 3 screws holding that are removed as well.

It flops around inside trying to get it out, as well 2 washers fall out (I hope it was 2 ... it would make sense if it's 3, but I haven't seen the third ..... yet).

I can only get it this far out ....





Taking off the lever arm, everything slides out, and look! it's the third washer!






Well, not much to see from this side 





So, I guess I'll put it back together and try taking the glass off ...

But what's this?





I don't remember taking out any ball bearings?

Putting it back together, the lever arm seems pretty wobbly ... like way too wobbly. These must go into a race or something. 

Checking all over the pivot area, there isn't a spot for them, and 4 really wouldn't do much on a 1/8" circumference ... Maybe they were packed into the makeshift axel?

That would explain the tapered screws that hold it together!

I ended up finding 5 total bearings, and dropped them in before adding the last screw.

Nice and tight now!



Now, just to figure out the best way to pop the bezel off without breaking anything else ....


Brad


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## Bradells (Jul 7, 2020)

Well the last project of the day as I do some more research on how much it'll cost me to open up the DTI from the glass side .... (any recommendations on a new DTI?)



In my youtube binging, I came across people using the ubiquitous "NOGA" holders ..... I have a bunch of "rod" holders, and that takes a little while to set up, realize it can't go that way, or an arm would be better on the other side, so you take it apart, remount it, only to remember that you don't remember what you were trying to do in the first place ....


While I'd love to have a NOGA, they're painfully expensive! And not to mention, most are very large for a Sherline too (yes, they have smaller ones, but I found them to be even more expensive!).

I found a mini knock off noga on amazon.ca (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00EJAC0DW). 





Watching a few other youtube videos of people cleaning up knock off holders, I ordered 2 on the last inspirational amazon order.

Well, they work pretty well out of the box. The mini magnet is truly tiny (~1.2" x 1.4" x 1.7" WxHxD), and was flat (unlike some of the reviews).

I decided to take them apart and clean up the angled surfaces.






Like all other videos, there is a retaining ring that you'll slide out with the help of a punch and pliers.








The finish on the rods were not too bad, they look like they were just ground to length (concave ends)





I ran them over 80/220 sandpaper to get rid of the high spots, and make them as smooth as possible









And hit them with some mystery grit Testers sandpaper as well






The 'nut' side of the lock didn't look great at all .... I don't know how they cut it to be honest! Yes I didn't get down far enough, but I was running out of sandpaper for this project ...













The 'bolt' side was in much better shape









And the top of the magnet has a M5 thread FYI







Now they are easier to tighten and hold a little better than before, so I guess I didn't screw that one up ... They take roughly 10-15 min to clean up ... most of that time is trying to get the retaining springs back into place! (or so it seemed).

Now the (minor) Cons of these holders:

They did miss a washer against the knob on one of the stands, so I just pulled one out of the misc bin ....
I did have to bend out the dovetail holder
To use these on a different mag base, I'd have to make a small adapter from the M5 to 3/8? ... Or make/source a new ball end

Overall, not bad for $20 and a few minutes of work compared to the $100-200 for a real NOGA...

Brad


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## Bradells (Jul 10, 2020)

You asked for it


YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Hey, post an image of your machines please and the swarf.
> 
> Craig


.... I'm telling you ....


Heres part of my Sherline setup, in it's slightly stored capacity (still waiting on those belts)






It sits nicely beside (at the moment, due to the 'work in progress') some of my 'workshop' tools (I say workshop, as it is actually the other spare room)






It usually isn't that messy (as we all say ...), Just have quite a few projects on the go at the moment, and they all stack up on each other ...

It's a Sherline 4400 lathe, I got it new in the late 90's ... It's been around, and I've done a few stupid things with it (and it shows) ..






Some not so stupid things I'd like to do (ie future projects) for the late ....

Make a low profile holder for this indicator (or really any DI, 2" preferred, which I don't have)






Make a new tool post for my carbide (BB ... took a while to clean up the 'machined' seat for the insert .... I probably could have eyeballed it better on the mill to be honest ...)






Heres the above "NOGA" holder in action ... It's just the right size!







Since the belt broke, I decided it needed it's bi-decade cleaning, so I went through all of it cleaning out decades of caked on grease/oil/dust/wood chips/etc. I also decided to move the metal strip 2" further away (you can see the previous screw holes) that I have for indicators and such further back, as it was sometimes in the way with beam styled holders ...







Another plan I'd like to do, is raise the lathe up from that plywood bed by <2" ... that may cause an issue with those tiny "NOGA" mounts now ..







In my search for a DRO (this machine is super tiny), I've had this old caliber for at least a decade. I kinda mounted it to the rear of the cross slide, with a clamp that I've lost to mount it hazardly to the ways. My current plan is to mount it to the bottom casting (strip), and mount the reader to the saddle nut (below the ways) at an angle. A 12" would suffice ... I might even make it adjustable in case I was working way out at the end of the bed






A 4" would be a little small, but the 6" would work well mounted here for the cross slide ... It would stick out, so I'd have to be careful if I was using the tailstock for 'bump' drilling. Maybe I'd also make a dovetailed stop just for that operation ....






My other thought, I can count hand wheel cranks like no one else with the saddle ... but I go completely dumb when it comes to the tailstock ... I start off well intentioned, and since I'm usually bumping the tailstock, I forget where I am after the second 'bump' ... So I'm thinking of mounting a smaller faced DI off to the rear of the tailstock, and add a piece of material that gets sandwiched between the chuck and spindle ..







And lastly, one super awesome mod that I've done (aside from installing the riser kit), is to braze the allen key to the centre lock on the tailstock. The other two are snug, but it is still easy to slide. The centre one locks it down sufficiently.







Well, that's a very quick look at the lathe side of my machine .... When I get it in "milling" mode (by removing the headstock and mounting it on a column ... probably next month after the move to a REAL GARAGE! Whohooo!!!) I'll do a write up on whatever I'm milling at the time



Brad


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## YYCHM (Jul 10, 2020)

Yikes!  That's smaller than my 7X12 was.


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## Bradells (Jul 10, 2020)

Well time for another "I probably should do this one day" project ...


Fix up the CT 6" Quick vice, that isn't so "Quick"


For the amount of money that you pay these days, the quality has gone down hill significantly ... I guess with all the import and import prices of machinery really takes a toll, then organizations get hip, and import their own version of an import version ....

This vice never worked properly (quick adjust) since day 1, and I said, "Before I put it away, I better fix it and clean it up so that it will work next time I pull it out".

Yup, its a temporary fixture for me on my very small work surface. I have 2 1/4-20 bolts that are through the top of the bench to T-Nuts on the underside.

I don't do a lot of pounding on the vice, and 4 bolts is a little overkill for a removable fixture.






This is the part that doesn't quite work ... It really is a simple fix, but if I'm going to adjust the tension, might as well clean out any packing grease, clean up any of the sliding edges, and reassemble without breaking something ...






The end of the lead screw has a pin and washer to make it so you can't drop the movable jaw on your toe.






A small wooden spacer with a punch and hammer takes care of that pin






This is the half nut in the back of the vice ... I was still having issues getting the movable jaw off, even with the pin and washer removed.






It just seemed like there was something else hindering it from coming off, but I couldn't see anything..







Turns out, the cable isn't long enough for it to come out, so there are 2 cap screws that come off, and a nut that holds the wire in place (very similar to a bicycle brake system)

Well, all the components are broken down as far as I could take them.






The half nut, I tried to take apart further, but the screws holding the springs on were stripped from the factory, so I didn't want to pull them out, only to find out I couldn't put them back in, so I left it in a tin of degreaser to well, degrease for the time being.

After cleaning up the lead screw, I decided to clean up the bottom rails that make contact with the fixed base. It looks like they were "cleaned" buy cutting off the bottom of the casting with a saw.. (the left is factory finish, the right is filed down and finished with the 220g/Mystery grit sandpaper)






After cleaning up both rails (and knocking the edge off a little), I looked at the base casting. There was no effort to clean off the epoxy paint on those sliding surfaces. So I took the file to those as well.











The lead screw is held captive by a pair of washers with a spring in the middle. The spring was roughly half compressed when it is installed. A quick trick to install it back in to be able to pin the washers is to compress the springs. I had some small Zip Ties that just barely fit between the lead screw and the spring.







When I took apart the jaws, the steel cable was wrapped around the lead screw. I thought that was an error during assembly, so I didn't do that on reassembly






Looks like it was done on purpose to keep the wire contained when the jaw is closed (the half nut towards the jaw), so another attempt and success!

Or so I thought.

I forgot that the half nut needed to go on the other side of the base casting, as there is a bump to prevent it from going through, so attempt #3 was in order ... and that braided steel wire was starting to get frayed at the end to feed it through the 2 holes .... I finally got all but 1 strand of wire through the locking nut ... I hate it when that happens ... Hopefully, I don't have to take it apart ever again!


I put some oil on the new bare metal, and some grease on the half nut






And now onto the fun bits ... SWARF!!!















Nice 

I think with the new shop space, I need a "dirty" bench and a "clean" bench .....








Brad


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## Bradells (Jul 10, 2020)

Lastly for the day, a question to all ...

I'm moving this summer, and as always, it is an upgrade of sorts. I'll actually have a garage! No more spare room workshop under/below another tennant!


What are some garagey wisdom to pass down? (it's a small single car garage ... sharing space with storage items, including recycling/compost/garbage bin ... I can smell it now ...)

Any security setups (there is an automatic garage door) and tricks?


Brad


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## kevin.decelles (Jul 10, 2020)

Fire extinguishers and exit plan! Sh_t happens!

First aid kit too.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## David_R8 (Jul 10, 2020)

kevin.decelles said:


> Fire extinguishers and exit plan! Sh_t happens!
> 
> First aid kit too.
> 
> ...



I fully agree with this advice. 
I have two of these in my 22’x19’ shop. 
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ki...rechargeable-red-fire-extinguisher/1000414442


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bradells (Jul 11, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Yikes!  That's smaller than my 7X12 was.



Without the riser kit, it’s about a 3x14

With the riser kit, it gets almost to 5” I’d say..


Brad


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## Dabbler (Jul 11, 2020)

I have always locked my garage door with a  padlock from the inside.  When I first moved in, (and the garage was empty)  the garage door kept opening at 'random' intervals, and stayed open for hours or days.  Even rolling code garage doors can be fairly easily be hacked open.  A padlock on the inside can't.


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## kevin.decelles (Jul 11, 2020)

Windows are nice, fresh air and light , but also provides window shopping opportunities. I invested in the cheapest blinds I could buy and keep them Down until I need to have to be fits of light

+1 to @Dabbler on manual lock (internal) . My shop door is on a manual chain fall, and secured in the inside .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bradells (Jul 11, 2020)

No windows in this one, not going to put one in either... (late 90’s early 00’s styled community house with attached garage).

Been looking at wireless door alerts (sends an alert to your phone if the door opens/closes).

Was also looking at a camera setup as well. We had one installed on our current rental after the neighbours truck mysteriously burned to the ground a few years ago due to ‘teenagers’....


Have a bucket full of old casters from work to build some roll around units (lift up onto the wheels, collapse onto levelling legs when in position)

Fire extinguisher on the way.. I always have a few first aid kits stashed around the house/vehicles/work bags..

Thanks and keep them coming!


Brad


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## RobinHood (Jul 11, 2020)

Good lighting - one needs to see what one is doing in order to do it safely.


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## DPittman (Jul 11, 2020)

Take any opportunity to insulate and seal up drafts if you plan on heating it ever.


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## Janger (Jul 13, 2020)

Yup I reiterate all the above. Good locks. Curtains. Video alarm. Padlock put through the garage door wheel  track. LED Lighting. Smoke/CO detector. Heat.


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## Janger (Jul 13, 2020)

Bradells said:


> Well time for another "I probably should do this one day" project ...
> Brad



Quite the post Brad.


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## Tom O (Jul 13, 2020)

I have a detached garage with a monitored alarm that comes with a motion sensor i don’t lock the house door when I’m out there I have a cheap door chime that goes off when someone opens it I’m thinking that it would work on the Roll up garage door too but chiming in the house. I suggested this to my neighbour who had his van broken into and of course they had the garage door opener in it!


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## Janger (Jul 13, 2020)

Another good reason for the padlock on the garage door track - where is your remote? 

Picture from: https://www.garageconversion.org/blog/garage-security-tips/


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## DPittman (Jul 13, 2020)

Janger said:


> Another good reason for the padlock on the garage door track - where is your remote?
> 
> Picture from: https://www.garageconversion.org/blog/garage-security-tips/
> View attachment 10069


Just don't forget its on there and hit the opener!


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## Brent H (Jul 13, 2020)

My shop garage door has the track etc and “can” open if required but it stays shut most days 364/365- I have a couple C-clamps preventing any opening.


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## Tom O (Jul 14, 2020)

Janger said:


> Another good reason for the padlock on the garage door track - where is your remote?
> 
> Picture from: https://www.garageconversion.org/blog/garage-security-tips/
> View attachment 10069


I don’t have any use for a remote opener not knowing the range on those things I would hate to have the button pushed in the front of the house and have the garage In back open for a week or so!


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## Bofobo (Jul 14, 2020)

Tom O said:


> I don’t have any use for a remote opener not knowing the range on those things I would hate to have the button pushed in the front of the house and have the garage In back open for a week or so!


I test the range on all devices when I acquire them so I can be aware of  their abilities. For instance my new head phones have 1/3 the range of my previous pair but I also cannot put my phone in my left rear pocket and have clear uninterrupted connection, the right back pocket is ok but not as good as a wired connection. Same with tv remotes, first thing I test is if it needs line of sight, my cheap wireless keyboard (10yo) would transmit through day a blanket but not the mouse. my  Fathers door opener would not exceed 50’ range even with fresh batteries.


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## Tom O (Jul 14, 2020)

Thats true about the range but my brothers wife was across the street at their daughters house and the kids/ baby had the keys with the security remote And were surprised when the swat team showed up after the panic button was pressed! They wouldn’t even let her in till they did their thing.


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## Tom O (Jul 14, 2020)

Another time Auto start had come out and I had it put in my Talon but being a standard transmission it needed a lockout that wasn’t in stock and told me not to use it till it was installed While waiting for this to come in one day I exited my house keys in hand pulling the door shut and watched the car start and drag the back wheels (e brake) into the back of my truck.
I had it removed!


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## YYCHM (Jul 14, 2020)

The remote starter on my F150 has a habit of going into panic/theft mode when the temperature dips to -20C.  It's quite annoying actually.


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## Bofobo (Jul 16, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> The remote starter on my F150 has a habit of going into panic/theft mode when the temperature dips to -20C.  It's quite annoying actually.


I wonder if that is related to a drop in voltage? Warning that the battery is beginning to freeze kind of possibility  ...?


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## YYCHM (Jul 16, 2020)

Bofobo said:


> I wonder if that is related to a drop in voltage? Warning that the battery is beginning to freeze kind of possibility  ...?



The alarm only activates when you attempt to remote start it.  The battery is good.  It's hit and miss but always occurs in that -20 range.


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## Bradells (Jul 17, 2020)

Well, a few days has passed ... I've given up on the DTI, don't really want to go out and buy the tools required to take the crystal off of the bezel.

However, for once, I found something worthwhile on Kijiji just after it was posted!

First off, is a set of 1/8" thick parallels ... Now I have a tiny machine, and a tinier vice (2"), so these are massive, but quite the usable set from 1/2" up to  1 5/8" by 1/8ths.






Heres the real deal of the week, a full set of shims. The seller mispriced them by a long shot, and I was able to scoop them up!






And lastly, due to YouTube, I didn't know I needed a Micrometer holder, but there are times where I wished there was such a thing. I was planning on making one, but this was also in the mix







All in all, not too bad for a nights worth of scouring the internet!



No images, but a co-worker is clearing out some woodworking equipment, so I picked up some Bessy clamps and a small delta 'job mate' styled bench for some future projects...



Brad


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## Tom O (Jul 17, 2020)

Nice I've been looking at Gage blocks and pins for a while now maybe one day.


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## Bradells (Jul 17, 2020)

Tom O said:


> Nice I've been looking at Gage blocks and pins for a while now maybe one day.



Pins and gauges are definitely low on my list, lots of other things to spend my last few pesos on, but I couldn’t pass up such a steal! (Seller listed them almost 1/2 of what he actually wanted them for).

He’s got a bunch of other items listed (I posted a new thread), and there’s a few more items that are needing to go into my shop.

I’ll be nice and ‘overspend’ on those items I think to make up the difference...


Brad


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## YYCHM (Jul 17, 2020)

I'm trying to snag the handbook but Kijiji is fighting me every inch of the way.  Rob replied to text him Monday.  Is there a phone number on the ad?  I don't see one?


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## PeterT (Jul 17, 2020)

I have a similar set of those offshore, round gage blocks. The screw together feature is kind of useful when you need to bring a stackup to a part being machined vs. referencing a part off block or surface plate. They come under a multitude of labels. Sometimes the box is nicer than another. They dimensionally check out pretty good to the instruments I have.

Check this out

$86.00 at Accusize, add shipping at checkout
https://www.accusizetools.com/ec04-7001-36-pcs-steel-space-block-sets/

$58.00 and free shipping with amazon prime, supplied by.... Accusize
https://www.amazon.ca/Accusize-Stee...eywords=36+gauge+block&qid=1595035419&sr=8-10


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## Bradells (Jul 17, 2020)

PeterT said:


> I have a similar set of those offshore, round gage blocks. The screw together feature is kind of useful when you need to bring a stackup to a part being machined vs. referencing a part off block or surface plate. They come under a multitude of labels. Sometimes the box is nicer than another. They dimensionally check out pretty good to the instruments I have.
> 
> Check this out
> 
> ...



I guess in my mind Kijiji $$ is less expensive than amazon $$  (I wouldn’t have bought them if they were listed any higher though)

Some things I’d prefer new, others, I prefer used and giving it a new home ...

Brad


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## DPittman (Jul 17, 2020)

PeterT said:


> I have a similar set of those offshore, round gage blocks. The screw together feature is kind of useful when you need to bring a stackup to a part being machined vs. referencing a part off block or surface plate. They come under a multitude of labels. Sometimes the box is nicer than another. They dimensionally check out pretty good to the instruments I have.
> 
> Check this out
> 
> ...


Can you explain a little more how those things can be used.  I did some quick searching but only the square one really brought up much not the round ones with threaded centers. I understand they can be used to calibrate but once you have your measuring  tools calibrated can't the tools be used to measure everything else.  Can you clamp them in a milling vice (without damage) to offset uneven clamping?  All my micrometers came with a calibrating rod, I wouldn't think these would offer me much more for my level of shop accuracy in that department???


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## Bradells (Jul 17, 2020)

DPittman said:


> Can you explain a little more how those things can be used.  I did some quick searching but only the square one really brought up much not the round ones with threaded centers. I understand they can be used to calibrate but once you have your measuring  tools calibrated can't the tools be used to measure everything else.  Can you clamp them in a milling vice (without damage) to offset uneven clamping?  All my micrometers came with a calibrating rod, I wouldn't think these would offer me much more for my level of shop accuracy in that department???



My main reason for getting them is for eventual sine bar use.

My other uses are for comparing dimensions on the surface plate..


Brad


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## CalgaryPT (Jul 17, 2020)

Bradells said:


> What are some garagey wisdom to pass down? (it's a small single car garage ... sharing space with storage items, including recycling/compost/garbage bin ... I can smell it now ...)
> ...




If you intend to do hot work in there (welding/grinding), separate your storage stuff into a section as far away as possible. Buy a welding blanket(s) from PA, hang it from the ceiling to protect the area from sparks. Never leave your shop for at least 30 mins. after your last spark has flown.


Hang your face shield/eye protection from a long hook (e.g., bent welding rod) from the ceiling overtop the most dangerous machine in the shop so you never have to ask yourself if it's too much trouble to walk to the other end of the shop to put it on. As finances permit, get at least one more face shield/set of eye protection and hang it at the other end of the shop. There—you now have no excuse to haul your lazy butt to the other side of the shop and put on your PPE. I'm sure I still have two eyes today because of this tip.

Best of luck with your upgrade  Congrats.


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## Dabbler (Jul 18, 2020)

Round gauge blocks versus square ones:

Personally I own an 81 pc precision gauge block set.  Used in 100 ways on a surface plate.  

Round ones are a traditional version used to set up milling machines before there were DROs  If you notice on a BP and Cincinatti mill, the table has two round channels along the X axis.  The round gauge blocks fit in this channel and help with setups.  [End of history lesson]

First use if the gauge block is Grade B or better is to calibrate you micrometers and verniers.  A second use which is very helpful it to practice precise measuring.  If I haven't done any machining for a couple of months, I do a refresher.

There are many machining ways to use these, but they need additional 'bits' to be versatile, and I'll mention only one example:  when turning a shoulder, you can use a micrometer stop for your carriage.  You build a gauge block stack the same height as your shoulder and face your part.  You then put the gauge block stack, along with the micrometer stop hard against the carriage, and remove the gauge block stack,  you now have a very precise way to turn up to the shoulder.

DROs have obviated the need for gauge blocks, except for surface plate use.


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## PeterT (Jul 18, 2020)

Learned many new things from Dabbler's explanation! I had a hunch that round vs rectangular had some historical significance or other practical purpose I wasn't yet aware of. The round ones have a fine pitch threaded center hole which allows them to be attached to one another, or attached to other things I suppose. Rectangular gage blocks, well the good ones, can be wrung together to make the stack. Less accurate class or even a bit of dust or fingerprint usually makes wringing difficult or impossible.

I check my micrometers with the typical 'post' type standards only because they were included with the mic. They compared well to same size gage block. You can get them onsey-twosey or progressive sets, But I wouldn't buy them if you already have a gage block set. I cant think of any reason why you couldn't calibrate mic on gage blocks directly. I suspect most hobbyist gage blocks are probably way more accurate than the repeatability & resolution of most hobbyist micrometers. At this level you can see the effect of shop temperature variation.

I've read different opinions about whether to calibrate at the max nominal opening vs minimum or even middle. For example calibrate at 1.0000 and now zero might be 0.0001". Or zero the jaws to 0.0000" and now the standard reads 0.9999. Or maybe calibrate to 0.5000" and now either min or max could deviate from 0.0000 and 1.0000. I suspect the answer lies in the mic itself, intended purpose & typical measurement range.

I'ts interesting to just measure the exact same gage block just to see how much variation you get purely from positioning or clutch / click tension etc. Micrometer screws can wear in preferential use areas just like lead screws. OTOH unless you have the ability to make parts to this accuracy (usually grinding & lapping), too many extra zeros may be more of a distraction. My cylinder liner bores were lapped to to the same tenth mark on bore gage which required a lot of work, But I'm not kidding myself, I'm sure thats an average across the micro hill tops & will probably be different when I measure them again & the assembly stress relieves & normalizes...never mind wear when it runs.


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## Dabbler (Jul 18, 2020)

bonus for the keeners:  this is a video about the origins of modern precision, including the best description of Johannsen's original gauge blocks.  Wow were they expensive!  a year's salary for a factory worker!


----------



## Brent H (Jul 18, 2020)

You are only as precise as you


----------



## Bradells (Jul 19, 2020)

Well, since the metal tools are still out of commission (waiting for new belts from the US mfr .... They've been sitting at LAX for a few weeks now....)


One project that I've been working on for a few months (designing, and sourcing out the work due to size), is making a commercial product actually work (... hmmm sounds like a theme I have going ...)

This product is an UnderWater Diver Propulsion Vehicle (aka, DPV, Scootz, Torpedo, etc).






Unfortunately this manufacturer really messed up on the design. They were really focused on an inexpensive unit, rather than a functional one.

There are many things to consider with underwater equipment, aside from the obvious, keep the dry bits dry, and the wet bits can stay wet ... Mainly, as a user, we are concerned with Buoyancy (does it sink, float, or stay where you left it), and Trim (does it rotate, or pitch up/down).

The manufacturer has been around the block and has several great units in its ranks, but with this one, they did have a small disclaimer when I chatted with them on the phone before purchasing a few units ... "It will be a LITTLE nose up in Salt Water, and a LITTLE nose down in Fresh Water".

Well, that turned out to be bold faced lie. It points as true as a plumb bob! (in either body of water). Clearly not what they said, and the response has been undesirable from the manufacturer, making up other 'stories'...

Well, long story short, I'm stubborn enough to make it right myself!

During the first month or so of the Covid experience, I spent researching CoG and CoB (Center of Gravity and Center of Buoyancy) calculations and determined with some guesstimating (well, a lot actually), that the body of the hull was around 4-5 inches too short!

What is one to do? Well, make an insert of course. Since the hull is 6.625" in diameter, and my mighty sherline can do 3.5", I had to shop out the part.

I found (and recommended) Aaron Machine Shop down by Glenmore/Blackfoot area, and they were more than happy to work with me on several prototypes.

The first round was my 4.5" version, as well as a 6" long version (I have plans that requires the extra lift capacity with external instrumentation), with dimensions taken from the existing parts for the sealing surfaces.






I tested them in fresh water later that weekend, and found the 4.5" to be still to heavy in the back end, and the 6" to be pretty close, needing some weight in the rear to trim it out.

I went back and ordered a 5.5" version, with updated dimensions, closing up the tolerances of the mating surfaces by a few 0.010's of inches











This one was sitting pretty well in fresh water, but was requiring more ballast in the bow of the DPV than I was liking.

I also headed out to the west coast for a week to get some salt water therapy for a while, took the 4.5" and the 6" versions along. The 4.5" version worked very well for Salt water as is (still too heavy for fresh water), and the 6" version required way too much weight to get it neutral again in the water.

Back to the drawing board a little. I had figured that the 4.5" would be great for Salt water (and it was), but since it was too heavy for fresh water, I sent it back for some more work to remove some of the Interior material.






I tested that version, and while it was close in fresh water, it wasn't were I wanted it to be, so I took it back for a further revision (along with the 5.5" version too ... if the machine is set up, it doesn't add much more to the cost to do a second).

This weekend, I took the updated 4.5 and 5.5" versions with reduced inside and outside diameters out to the Provincial Park near Brooks. Fantastic warm lake water, and great visibility too.






Still the 4.5" version sits just a little too heavy (but not horrible) in fresh water with almost 1/2 of its weight removed. The 5.5" version, I was able to get it near perfection.

Putting it on the scale at home, and just finishing up new drawings for a last prototype. Starting with removing the outside diameter, and then attaching a weight specification, they'll machine out the ID if any more weight needs to be removed.

I'm on the fence if a slightly shorter tube (say 5") would suffice, but $$ is starting to really dwindle on this project sadly.

But, once this last one is done, one last final test in fresh water, and sign off on the paperwork for a small production run!


Brad


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## Bradells (Jul 19, 2020)

In another thread (https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.c...ter-machinist-than-i-thought.2318/#post-27637) Dabbler made me remember a quick little project I did back in the spring after the last snow (or so we thought!)

I was going to make a small picket fence for one of our deck garden beds that our dog has been stepping into. Over breakfast, I was wondering how I was going to assemble said fence, without a compressor, but I do have a pile of air tools laying around that would make quick work!

Last fall I was making some LP parts for some Oxygen analyzers for SCUBA, and had some spare ends and connectors, so I found one of my inflator hose connectors, and made an adapter to go directly into the back of the tool and use one of my HP SCUBA tanks to drive it (130cuft @ 3442psi of DRY air). Grabbing one of my regulators, I set it from 10 bar (~145psi) and rolled it down to 5.5bar (~80psi).






Well, fast forward a little and I got sucked into a CT/PA shopping spree (seemed everything I wanted was on sale), and picked up a compressor hose kit. I then changed over the "direct to tool" connector into a female Air QC. Now it's filled several sets of tires (I've also had to patch several tires this spring between a flat on my winters, and some leakage out of some of the summers).

Very handy, can find cheap used scuba tanks and get them filled with clean dry air if you don't have the space, noise constraints or money for a decent high $$$ compressor.








Brad


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## PeterT (Jul 19, 2020)

The UDP is cool. What material are the grey (plastic looking) segments made out of? I see what look like O-ring seals on the end, but how are the parts attached to one another?
Too bad the company messed up the design like that.


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## CalgaryPT (Jul 19, 2020)

Bradells said:


> Well, since the metal tools are still out of commission (waiting for new belts from the US mfr .... They've been sitting at LAX for a few weeks now....)
> 
> 
> One project that I've been working on for a few months (designing, and sourcing out the work due to size), is making a commercial product actually work (... hmmm sounds like a theme I have going ...)
> ...


Cool little project. Definitely keep us posted (action pics will be required).


----------



## Bradells (Jul 19, 2020)

PeterT said:


> The UDP is cool. What material are the grey (plastic looking) segments made out of? I see what look like O-ring seals on the end, but how are the parts attached to one another?
> Too bad the company messed up the design like that.



Yeah, 2 orings per seal. One for water, the other is a debris seal.

It is locked in by pressure difference in the water column, and a camed nylon strap to keep it there, so no fasteners.

It is made of SCH80 PVC. One way to keep costs down is to use common engineered materials. The motor and nose caps are injection moulded plastic.

Similar aluminum designs are 3-4x the cost


Brad


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## YYCHM (Jul 19, 2020)

What exactly is this thing used for?


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## Tom O (Jul 19, 2020)

Just a thought couldn’t you have a Sliding weighted ring around the body that can be tightened in position to achieve the buoyancy requirements?
It works on the triple balance scales! Lol


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## Bradells (Jul 19, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> What exactly is this thing used for?



Glorious fun underwater! https://video.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.net...=cd05e6475b0ed022035f187c21c43410&oe=5F3A4C05

Mainly to access areas normally inaccessible by shore, or we don’t want to pay for a boat.

Other times it’s to aid in carrying the amount of equipment needed for a dive. Some dives are really deep 



, others are really long (caves).

If Covid hadn’t of happened, I would be in Italy right now working on an archeological dive, with the guys in the above YouTube clip.



Tom O said:


> Just a thought couldn’t you have a Sliding weighted ring around the body that can be tightened in position to achieve the buoyancy requirements?
> It works on the triple balance scales! Lol



That is one way to go, unfortunately, that does affect streamlining and instrumentation placement slightly (compasses, water flow, cameras, other scientific clap traps). Not to mention, how to (while underwater mind you, usually with think, non dexterous gloves) to keep it there!

Knowing the displacement of an object (volume, easier to get close with today’s 3d drafting programs), and knowing the weight of the unit, we can get very close on the first go at getting the weighting correct.

But with these DPV, the biggest challenge is offsetting the weight of the motor assembly, and that is done by cantilevering weight on the nose with a large empty volume in the rear middle.

Sometimes weight is needed in the rear too, usually when we determine how much weight is needed, and then adjusting an ounce or few back to get the proper ‘trim’ or ‘attack’ in the water when the unit is let go.



Brad


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## Tom O (Jul 19, 2020)

Well there is the submarine type chambers front and rear with a air pressure cylinder mounted underneath with a preset auto surface in case of losing it overboard.


----------



## Chicken lights (Jul 19, 2020)

How hard is it to get dive certified?


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## Bradells (Jul 19, 2020)

Chicken lights said:


> How hard is it to get dive certified?




Not too hard...

You can do a ‘discover scuba’ usually in a pool in an evening. Gives you some of the basics of the gear, and how to breath underwater.

From there you can do an ‘open water’ course, usually takes a few weekends and a few evenings of time (or 3 days of vacation in warm water). This gives you more of the mechanics and safety to go diving on your own (with a partner).

For northern diving, I’d recommend adding a drysuit certification to the open water. It adds a little more time, and an extra dive or two to the course (not necessarily a bad thing!)

After that, the best thing to do, is just go diving. Join a local dive group, get experience. After a while, you can take further courses to diversify and expand on your knowledge.


For me it was a very steep and slippery slope from an innocent day  of snorkelling in Central America almost a decade ago.... now I dive in Caves, Deep (60m), rebreather, cold and dark...... 

But most of my memorable memories are simple shallow dives looking at pretty fish!


Brad


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## YYCHM (Jul 19, 2020)

Have you dove those underground rivers in Mexico?


----------



## Chicken lights (Jul 19, 2020)

Bradells said:


> Not too hard...
> 
> You can do a ‘discover scuba’ usually in a pool in an evening. Gives you some of the basics of the gear, and how to breath underwater.
> 
> ...


I looked into it a year or more ago, and it meant I’d have to sacrifice 6-8 weeks of being OTR to complete the basic course, if I remember right. 

But it would be so cool if I had a weekend in Florida or Texas to go spend some time in the water 

I’ve gone surfing a couple times, swimming a bunch, the oceans just have a pull to them that is hard to describe. It’s the ocean, man, she’s a pretty cool lady


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## Bradells (Jul 20, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Have you dove those underground rivers in Mexico?



I’ve only been to Mexico once, last summer for some training in the cenote basins, so I haven’t gone much into the caves there yet.

There’s lots to see down there, highly decorated caves, as well as new discoveries still being made!

I’ve been in the Florida caves, as well as salt water Belize (same karst as Mexico caves). The caves up here and out in Vancouver Island have eluded me the last few summers due to fires.... this year, I’m broke.... 

I’d like to get back.... I can’t quite find a tamale that I like up here as much as down there and in El Salvador....


Brad


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## David_R8 (Jul 20, 2020)

Brad are you on the coast or inland?


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## Bradells (Jul 20, 2020)

David_R8 said:


> Brad are you on the coast or inland?


Calgary,

I try to get out to the coast once a month (~90% of my extended family are on the island)

Brad


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## CalgaryPT (Jul 20, 2020)

Bradells said:


> I’ve only been to Mexico once, last summer for some training in the cenote basins, so I haven’t gone much into the caves there yet.
> 
> There’s lots to see down there, highly decorated caves, as well as new discoveries still being made!
> 
> ...


Brad you might this guy's channel. He has built submarines and ROVs, but for the past years has been building a 74 foot all steel origami boat. It's modelled on a Chinese Junk and he's built it all himself in his backyard in Tulsa, OK. It's intended to be a research and exploration vessel and people have been coming from around to world to help him. Lots of metalwork, casting, electronics, etc., but mostly I like how he just learns about something and shows off his way of mastering it.


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## Bradells (Jul 20, 2020)

CalgaryPT said:


> Brad you might this guy's channel. He has built submarines and ROVs, but for the past years has been building a 74 foot all steel origami boat. It's modelled on a Chinese Junk and he's built it all himself in his backyard in Tulsa, OK. It's intended to be a research and exploration vessel and people have been coming from around to world to help him. Lots of metalwork, casting, electronics, etc., but mostly I like how he just learns about something and shows off his way of mastering it.



Awesome!

Brad


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## David_R8 (Jul 20, 2020)

I used to follow him till he faked the acetylene explosion.


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## Tom O (Jul 20, 2020)

David_R8 said:


> I used to follow him till he faked the acetylene explosion.


I was going to say the same thing I unsubscribed.


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## Dabbler (Jul 20, 2020)

faked acetylene explosion???  what???  i'm clueless.


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## CalgaryPT (Jul 20, 2020)

David_R8 said:


> I used to follow him till he faked the acetylene explosion.


I didn't know about that as I stopped watching him around the time everyone starting sending him free tools and he started selling swag. As his channel progressed I found he became less authentic. He clearly loves the camera. I think it's interesting that he says he is single now. I recall when he started out (10 yrs, ago?) he was married and his wife helped him. If I built a 74 foot boat in my back yard my marital status might change as well. 

I don't follow him anymore either, but I get why he has a following. I've leaned a few things from watching him and do admire his persistence. But I wonder if it has become more of an obsession. The early vids were good.


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## David_R8 (Jul 20, 2020)

https://ktul.com/news/local/tulsa-boat-builders-extreme-prank-stirs-anger-and-support-online
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/212692-doug-from-sv-seeker-fakes-head-injury/

__
		https://www.reddit.com/r/purelivingonyoutube/comments/erozv8


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## CalgaryPT (Jul 20, 2020)

Dabbler said:


> faked acetylene explosion???  what???  i'm clueless.


https://ktul.com/news/local/tulsa-boat-builders-extreme-prank-stirs-anger-and-support-online

That's pretty bad. I hadn't looked at the site in months. Thanks for advising guys.


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## Dabbler (Jul 20, 2020)

I vaguely remember having a look at an episode or 2, years ago.  I love to carefully think things through, and judge success or failure based on how close things ended up to my original or modified plan.  He seems to be the 'build it and see if if floats' school.

After looking at a current video or 2 (including the linked one),  I got the impression the project began in earnest, and now it is just a project to create videos.  I'm pretty sure he really doesn't want to actually go anywhere in it any more.


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## Bradells (Jul 20, 2020)

Oh, that’s the guy?

I’ve only heard of it by jaded YouTube creators... but no one would link or provided more details


Brad


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## Brent H (Jul 20, 2020)

@Bradells - are you a GUE cert diver or DIR side ?

Been diving since 92 but slowing up A lot.  Did Fundies about 10 years ago?


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## Bradells (Jul 20, 2020)

Brent H said:


> @Bradells - are you a GUE cert diver or DIR side ?
> 
> Been diving since 92 but slowing up A lot.  Did Fundies about 10 years ago?



Sure am! Did fundamentals back about 7? years ago, went through Tech 1 and did CCR 1 last summer down in Tulum ... just need to move to a coastline to properly use a JJ (and acquire one).

I normally dive my KISS side mount rebreather, and have training from pretty much everyone ... Caves with NSS-CDS, rebreather with IANTD, misc things with TDI (mainly service courses).


Brad


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## Bradells (Jul 21, 2020)

Well, some more additions to the shop this week via Kijiji.






In no particular order..

27th edition bible (with box) sorry @YYCHobbyMachinist

2” dial indicator

Metric DTI with lots of little bits and bobs

Set of 4 squares (2.5”, 3”, 4”, 6”)



Later on I’ll go and check out the accuracy of these finds, i’m In the process of moving, so slowly taking over the new 1 car garage with stuff







So far, just piles and some sort of organization (well, starting).

Going to put the tools on the left side (where power is, 30A 240v) and recreation on the other. Add in a beverage fridge and a poker table once it’s all done!


Brad


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## Bradells (Jul 23, 2020)

Well, first project completed in the new shop!

A woodworking project.....

Gotta have a spot to put the 3 sets of tires kinda project...

Off to HD and pick up some surprisingly straight 2x3 and 2x4






And 40 minutes later, just as the hail started to come down...






This frees up tones of space from the last shed (which had no roof height), and from the garage floor where this open space was filled








I have one more workbench to bring over and some shelving for the recreational side of the garage, then it’s figuring out where everything should go in relation to each other... thinking metal things on the house side, and wood things on the garage door side, as most of the work would be out the door anyways...

Might also need to make a nice and large splash for the Sherline setup... keep metal in a somewhat contained area...







I can’t recall when I’ve had all my tools in one spot! (Always split up between work, storage, small shed, ‘spare bedroom’, basement...)


Brad


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## CalgaryPT (Jul 25, 2020)

You're in the fun zone now


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## YYCHM (Jul 25, 2020)

**URGENT** 7" turning for tonight (July 24) Calgary

https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/urgent-7-turning-for-tonight-july-24-calgary.2338/

Did this post you made get blocked waiting Mod Approval?  I just tried adding a comment and got blocked?


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## David_R8 (Jul 25, 2020)

Test comment 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## YYCHM (Jul 25, 2020)

David_R8 said:


> Test comment



This post https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/urgent-7-turning-for-tonight-july-24-calgary.2338/


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## Bradells (Jul 27, 2020)

Not my shop project, but a work shop project.... labels/barcodes and stickers.

Growing up, my dad was the weird dad on the block.

Regularly grinding edges on his shovels, putty knives, small prys, some small pets, etc. Basically anything that could have an edge, got an edge (some razor sharp, others a very rough edge).

Digging was easier in our solid clay (you would be lucky if you had 1’ of real ‘soil’ before hitting clay).


Well, here I am, with a box cutter on my mat, along with a strip of 400g sandpaper just to swipe every few labels to keep an edge, reduce any dings so I don’t scratch the painted surfaces...






Keeps things happy, and my tools lasting just a little longer...

I mentioned in a different thread that I haven’t ground a HSS tool since the late 90’s.... that’s when I made most of my lathe HSS tooling back in high school. I just keep the edge clean and sharp with a stone and some sandpaper... almost 25 years later!


Brad


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## Bradells (Jul 28, 2020)

Along the same lines as yesterday’s post, here’s another not my shop, project..

Still labelling away at work, but with trickier labels and stickers (thicker, gooeyer, and more of a pain if you don’t land it right the first time kind of labels...

Here’s the setup






2 clamps clamped together to form a sideways ‘vice’.






Once the item is degreased, it is lightly clamped in place, sticker is prepped, and ruler at the ready..






And using the ruler, line up the vertical Center feature of the logo (thanks for finally changing it up so something is centred!), lay it over and you have a centred, square logo!

Rinse, wash, repeat...


Brad


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## Bradells (Jul 30, 2020)

Today was a busy day. We're back at work for 3 days a week, so today is the start of my super long weekend ....

It started off with the Ms. fleeing the country this morning (international work/conference), and then a phone call to go into work .... Great ...

Work was quick, and there were some postings on The PortraitNovel of some "estate" tool sales. I found 2 of them, and nothing worthy of my few peso's and blocks drive .. bummer #3.


But, I have been selling of some equipment on the Kijiji the past week, and the last one was picked up this afternoon.

I filled up the SUV with another load destined for the new place and headed over. Setting up the new 'dive shed', and decided that I needed to use the lathe to 'fix' a part that I made back in the spring for my rebreather.






When I made the aluminum post, I didn't know how long to make it, so I made it 1.5" in length. That is too long I found out, as I catch my light cord underwater constantly with it!

I went and put on the 3jaw onto the Sherline, and realized, yup, I can't see much in the garage with 2 LED overhead bulbs... Somewhere in a box I was smart enough to bring over a bunch of random lights, and set to mount one strip light in such a way to illuminate the working area of the lathe.






First thing that I wanted to do was to turn a relief shoulder for the screw, to see if it would sit better ... *Spoiler* it didn't in the end. Most likely the hole wasn't bottom tapped. I might go back and remove .100 +/-.100" or so to get it to seat nicer.

I turned the part around in the chuck, and put the parting tool on.






I like to register a .010" shim stock between the work and the tool to find the edge, move the tool out, and over the .010 and zero out the dials. I put another tool post on to register the DI (I hope to make a way mounted adapter for the DI ... no need to eyeball the alignment).

I moved over the offending .620" to make the unscrewed length to be .750". Parting went well ... until it didn't. Can you see what happened?






At some point since I last used the tool, the blade slid down (it is on an angle), and was undercutting. With all the gunk on the tool and post, I couldn't slide it easily into position without raking the post off, loosing the registration and whereabouts in space it is.






So out came the hacksaw for the last little bit.

Previously, to cut the ball end, I rotated the headstock (there isn't a compound on this lathe) and roughed in a radius with multiple passes at various angles. I wanted to try a new method (to me).

On my tablet (currently my shop music device), I downloaded a cad program (GNA Cad) and have been using this for a few projects when I want to accurately figure out some dimensions... This time, I drew a .249" circle (diameter of the part), and made measurements every .010" along the radius to figure out the depth of cut.

In hind sight, with this program (which I'm still fairly slow on ..), I should have gotten rid of the decimal, as the unit resolution is set to 0.0000", but the dimensions were 0.00" (I couldn't find the setting). I might just have to find a cheap monitor and windows XP computer to put ACAD2000 on in the shop for quick dimensions...

Anyways, this is what it produced on the lathe.






A little file work, and finishing off with 220g sandpaper, this was the final result ... Probably about the same amount of time as unlocking and rotating the headstock, but I didn't loose my alignment this way.






And here it is, back in the DSV (Dive/Surface Valve)






After finishing this quick project, I added some more lights underneath as I found that the one light didn't light up any indicator if it was mounted behind the lathe, so 2 more were added.






And here is what the base is looking like ... a few shelves, from the top, some measurement tools, below that, setup/cutting tooling, and on the bottom, some stock and misc tooling.







..... It needs a lot of work still, but is slowly getting there as the shop progresses into something usable.


Brad


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## Bradells (Jul 30, 2020)

In my quest for a longer 'poor mans DRO' I found some inexpensive 8" Callipers from the Jungle Delivery Specialists. Seeing 2 ads for what I presumed to be the same device, I decided to see if one was worth the extra $1 or not.

They came in the same packaging...





















Nearly identical ... think they're the same?


Well, they are, and one is not worth the extra dollar it was charged for. In fact, they were not even worth all the dollars they charged them for.

First thing, I couldn't get the same reading 3 out of 10 times trying to 'zero' out the calliper. This is probably caused by the extremely poor fit of the reader on the scale. Also the depth reader part was flopping around like a fish.

They've changed how they do the callipers, making them easier to produce by using a very small, but very wide head screw to 'capture' the rod, rather than the 'old' way of using a separate part to 'saddle' the rod in place with 2 screws and the extra bit.

Lastly, it didn't have a direct access to the output pins for an eventual external display. Being the case was all metal, I didn't feel like pulling it apart rather than using their great return policy.

Oh well, back they go.


For more fun, I ordered the next expensive 8" calliper. It had a more usual plastic body to the reader.






It showed up in very similar packaging as the last attempt .... this made me very skeptical ... but since it was green, clearly there is someone else checking over the QC.






The display is your usual. The previous ones would do fractional inches for the wood working crowds, this one doesn't (and I am fine with that!).






It still has the new trend of lesser digits being smaller than just the last digit, but it is clearer than the previous callipers, and doesn't bother me that much (....yet).

It also has the 'new' style of keeping the depth rod in place. This one has very little to no slop.






But sadly, where previous callipers would have a removable rear section exposing the output pins, this one does not.







I guess when the time comes, I'll just 'peel' back that small bit of plastic to expose the pins (hopefully).



I placed it on the bed of the lathe, and I think it will work nicely .. just need to make some brackets to mount the scale off the casting, and a bracket to have the head follow the carriage. Also, need to figure out where to start the scale in relation to the head for the most useful movement of the carriage.... Both for lathe work, and milling (as it is the same base for both operations ... just move the spindle onto a Z slide).


Brad


----------



## PeterT (Jul 31, 2020)

In the inexpensive category its really hard to discern shop quality vs 'ok ya got me on that one'. I've collected a few over the years. The mechanics are usually OK. Makes you wonder how they can manufacture it for that price, never mind make a dollar profit.  The biggest complaint is many consume batteries just sitting there turned off.  I found a chep source of common batteries but they have a shelf life too. 

Another thing to be aware if your application requires cutting the jaws or drilling holes to mount them onto something. They are typically hardened (as they should be). I used a Dremel cutoff wheel & occasional cooling spritz but it was slow sledding. Similarly drilling holes required carbide & even that was marginal. So depending on your application you might be ahead getting the jaw-less straight  encoder with end brackets. I think we posted some examples elsewhere. Some of those talk to a DRO box so might save you hot tapping into pins. I'm not 100% but I dont think most of the cheapos 'output' but that's above my pay grade.


----------



## YotaBota (Jul 31, 2020)

PeterT said:


> Makes you wonder how they can manufacture it for that price, never mind make a dollar profit.


And ship it from the other side of the world! Just about everything these days is built to a price point, the less the vendor is willing to pay the cheaper and worse the product (in theory). I have seen some cheap stuff that actually works but not much. Even when Crappytire has a 70% off sale they are still some how making money.
Brad - thanks for the review.


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## Bradells (Jul 31, 2020)

PeterT said:


> In the inexpensive category its really hard to discern shop quality vs 'ok ya got me on that one'. I've collected a few over the years. The mechanics are usually OK. Makes you wonder how they can manufacture it for that price, never mind make a dollar profit.  The biggest complaint is many consume batteries just sitting there turned off.  I found a chep source of common batteries but they have a shelf life too.
> 
> Another thing to be aware if your application requires cutting the jaws or drilling holes to mount them onto something. They are typically hardened (as they should be). I used a Dremel cutoff wheel & occasional cooling spritz but it was slow sledding. Similarly drilling holes required carbide & even that was marginal. So depending on your application you might be ahead getting the jaw-less straight  encoder with end brackets. I think we posted some examples elsewhere. Some of those talk to a DRO box so might save you hot tapping into pins. I'm not 100% but I dont think most of the cheapos 'output' but that's above my pay grade.



I’ve done this a few times. Dremel  with cutoff disks are your friends.

I haven’t drilled into them, I just use the existing holes, or add in clamps...

We’ll see with this one!

Brad


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## Bradells (Aug 1, 2020)

The new garage has a 14-30R (aka 'Dryer Plug') on the wall along with a single 5-15 outlet.

At work, we have a few 30A power distribution units from a few generations of equipment ago that aren't being used. I called the boss up and discussed how much $$ it's worth not to inventory one every few months would be ...

The distro has a L14-30 inlet plug, and I couldn't find any laying around, so I ordered a 'replacement dryer cable' on the Jungle Delivery Specialists for less price than the raw materials.

Heading over to the big store, I picked up a cable clamp and a blank face plate. Well, I found one that had a "3/4" knock out in it (yup, air quotes on that one)...

Getting back to the garage, I knocked the knock out ... out, only to find that the 3/4" cable clamp doesn't fit.

What to do?

I don't have the mill set up to bore it out, but I do have the lathe up and running ....

My chucks are 3", the plate is ~4" .....

I rummaged around my metal stock drawer and found a small chunk of aluminum bar. So I spun around the jaws on the 4jaw and put it in to make sure it clears.






It just made it, so time to indicate it in to reduce vibrations.






I was initially off by .020" so not too bad!

One probably should face the entire surface of the "plate", but I didn't want to do that with so much material being a interrupted cut, nor does the accuracy need to be there for this hole. Instead I placed some radial marks for lining up the existing hole.






I lined up the cover as best as I could, made some marks for some 10-32 holes to clamp the cover in place.






On the first hole, I accidentally grabbed the 12-24 tap instead of the 10-32 (I really don't like how this set is labelled .... ) and was having a hard time getting it started. Once I realized I was using the wrong tap, I relocated the cover, and drilled a fresh hole.

Using the CORRECT tap this time, it went much smoother. Using some home made clamps, I mounted it back onto the lathe.






After checking the clearance of the tool post and carriage, I went away making the hole ~.100" larger.






This material sadly work hardens like no tomorrow, and wasn't doing me any favours, but I got through it.

Here it is in action.






Now I have 6 20A circuits (5x 5-20 and 1x L5-20) along with the existing 5-15 on the wall.


Really, I just need to buy a set of step drills when they go on sale, as that would have saved about 30 min to drill it to size!

Brad


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## Bradells (Aug 28, 2020)

Well, I think it’s going to be a bit of a sad weekend...

I’ve weathered many a recession, dip, dry spell and even SARS.... but after looking at my budget coming up for the last part of this year with the lack of income and EI support, I’m looking at selling some of my tools to get by.

I’m still on the fence, but I think a majority/all of my lathe and milling tools will be on the block.

Aside from Kijiji, is there any other decent place to sell equipment? It’s sad as I was really looking forward to getting back into this hobby with the new space.

Brad


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## DPittman (Aug 28, 2020)

Bradells said:


> Well, I think it’s going to be a bit of a sad weekend...
> 
> I’ve weathered many a recession, dip, dry spell and even SARS.... but after looking at my budget coming up for the last part of this year with the lack of income and EI support, I’m looking at selling some of my tools to get by.
> 
> ...


Oh boy thats rough man.  But you can rebuy all that stuff when things improve.  I think i would choose Kijiji as the main platform for selling stuff, but it never hurts to have it in multiple places like Facebook and Townpost etc.  I think  i would stick to the web sites as opposed to any garage sale or auction type dispersal.  I hope you get top dollar for your stuff ( and I suspect you will).


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## YYCHM (Aug 28, 2020)

Hang in there Bro, we are with you.  I've suffered more than my fair share of down turns and know what it feels like

Post your stuff here as well, lots of our members are small machine users.

Craig


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## David_R8 (Aug 28, 2020)

Oh man...this totally sucks. 
FWIW I have had excellent luck selling via FB Marketplace. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Hruul (Sep 3, 2020)

Sorry to hear that Brad.  Never a good situation when it comes to liquidating items to make ends meet.


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## Bradells (Sep 3, 2020)

All is not lost...

Had ‘fun’ yesterday at work drilling out stainless machine screws ....







Brad


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## YYCHM (Sep 3, 2020)

Back on track are we?


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## Bradells (Sep 3, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Back on track are we?



Not yet... still debating on selling the machines...

We’re back in the warehouse 3-4 days a week.... with no actual ‘work’ per say (event production house)....  not quite enough to cover the monthly bills and insurance...

We’re basically working on a backlog of warehouse/inventory upkeep and assimilating some new company acquisitions (pre covid)


Brad


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