# Micrometer stand



## garageguy (Dec 9, 2022)

A while back I saw a couple pics of homemade micrometer stands but I can't find much now. I have a little time right now to build one but would like some ideas for different designs that I can use with what material I have kicking around the shop. If anyone has any pics or plans , drawings etc. I would like to see some. Thanks in advance for any help.


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## Gearhead88 (Dec 9, 2022)

$10 at Princess auto when they have them


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## garageguy (Dec 9, 2022)

I had no idea PA had them, Thanks.


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## PeterT (Dec 9, 2022)

Best if you can see it in real life or have an exchange arrangement. Long time ago I gambled on a KBC one that looked like this. Very crude POS IMO. Maybe I got an angry Monday model butit had issues beyond that. The disc swivel was ratchety & ill fitting. No rubber padding protection anywhere. I think it had a nylon cap on the screw which is wrong IMO, its slippery plastic. You don't want to be applying any force o your $$ mic.






these are everywhere but no experience





I saw some Mitutoyo style clones but cant recall where


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## DPittman (Dec 10, 2022)

Okay I'm taking one for the team.  Yes it's probably garbage as is but it might be useable or made to be useable.  Too cheap not to gamble. I've ordered and I'll report back when I get it.

LuckyHigh Precision Micrometer Holder Stand Cast Iron Base Rubber Lined Jaws Inspection Fixture https://a.co/d/aCZnthE

Now on the other hand I imagine the Mitutoyo stand is well made and functions as it should. But holy cow $143!  I'll let someone else order this one and we can compare notes. Peter??

Mitutoyo 156-101-10 Micrometer Stand for Micrometers Upto 4" https://a.co/d/eb5MlaD


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## ShawnR (Dec 10, 2022)

If you wanted to make one, here are lots of ideas. 



			micrometer stand - Google Search


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## ShawnR (Dec 10, 2022)

Homemade Micrometer Stand                     - HomemadeTools.net
					

Homemade micrometer stand machined from aluminum alloy.



					www.homemadetools.net


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## garageguy (Dec 10, 2022)

I'm leaning towards making one. Haven't cut a chip in a couple weeks and am starting to get the shakes. I saw the blondihacks vid and it gave me some ideas. I have a magnetic base from an old wheel alignment machine that I may use and build up from there. That way there is no possibility of it tipping over over or heaven forbid getting bumped off the bench. Thanks for all the replies and looking forward to more good ideas.


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## garageguy (Dec 10, 2022)

@DPittman thanks for your sacrifice. Looking forward to your results as this could result in ground-breaking new info for metalworkers across Canada. Or not.   Anyhow, looking forward to what shows up at your door.


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## garageguy (Dec 10, 2022)

One of the things I am working out is the design of the clamp. I'll probably use a spring loaded rubber lined jaw with a thumbwheel type adjusting screw. This whole thing will likely not be real pretty, but should be very functional.


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## garageguy (Dec 10, 2022)

when I was still wrenching for a living I always found myself wanting a mic stand when I was measuring shims for adjusting pre-load in differentials. Now that I'm retired I'm going to make one. sheesh....


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## PeterT (Dec 10, 2022)

DPittman said:


> Now on the other hand I imagine the Mitutoyo stand is well made and functions as it should. But holy cow $143!  I'll let someone else order this one and we can compare notes. Peter??


Where is the sheepish emoji? LOL. I've been using one for +10 years. But it was less than half that price back then & Mitutoyo sale flyer time. OTOH I use it daily for the kind of work I do. Often times its more convenient to bring parts to a fixed measuring device. Yes its a nice to have. Yes you could replicate one but as mentioned I would pay attention to the details: clamp mechanism, angle adjustability (to accommodate the work & also read the dial/display) and overall heft so it stays put.

This is not a good design IMO. Very high center of gravity. The base footprint is skinny footprint area & orientated in the wrong orientation. She could rotate the mic 90-deg for some improvement, but it looks prone to roll over in use. It needs substantially more area & dead weight in the base, even a shell filled with cheaper inert weight. There is no provision to swivel the mic plane up for better visibility which is desirable if the secondary lines happen to be on the far side of barrel, or just better viewing of an display mic which ideally the stand it should universally accept. Some mics frames are constant thickness solids or I-beams, but some are also tapered in thickness. Digit style mics might have a flat area but more limited clamp area & arguably more delicate bodies. I'm just saying have a look at your collection or what you might anticipate buying & design the grip around that. Also, you can buy something like sheet rubber & bond it to a surface which will provide more gription & conform better vs a hard surface. Call me a snob but I'm of the opinion if you spent good money on a mic, don't stick it into something resembling a bench vise LOL


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## DPittman (Dec 10, 2022)

PeterT said:


> Call me a snob but I'm of the opinion if you spent good money on a mic, don't stick it into something resembling a bench vise LOL


Hee hee I won't call you anything but wise.  I didn't spend good money on my mics so this stand might be part for the course.  ( I actually have one small Mitutoyo micrometer but I like my cheap knock off of the same size better as it has a better fine adjustment mechanism)


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## Gearhead88 (Dec 10, 2022)

This is the one that princess auto sells ( when they have them ) , I bought two they were so cheap , one for home , one for work .


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## PeterT (Dec 10, 2022)

The PA one has more desirable features to my eye. Mitutoyo style for comparison.





I might be wrong but I think the pillar style are meant to support (bigger) mic's upright like this. Even so, a hefty base for stability.


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## DPittman (Dec 10, 2022)

PeterT said:


> The PA one has more desirable features to my eye. Mitutoyo style for comparison.
> View attachment 28747
> 
> I might be wrong but I think the pillar style are meant to support (bigger) mic's upright like this. Even so, a hefty base for stability.
> View attachment 28748View attachment 28749


The only down side I see with the pillar style holders is that you have to cock your head sideways to read the mic.  Maybe not a big deal.


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## Susquatch (Dec 10, 2022)

@DPittman:

I'm glad you ordered one. I'm excited to see what you learn. 

There are things I can never seem to do right and things I can never seem to do wrong. 

I cannot hold thread wires and take a measurement worth crap. This might be a place for your micrometer holder. However, I got two thread mics a while back and am very happy with them. 

Other than that one case for thread wires, I don't have trouble holding a micrometer in my right hand with my ring and baby fingers curled around the curved section of the mic and spinning the mic spindle with my thumb and pointer finger. I can't really imagine how a mic holder will be better for that. 

But never say never - everything can be improved! Please keep us posted.


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## Canadium (Dec 10, 2022)

I have one of the Accusize holders. I find it rather fiddly but I've never tried a different style to compare to. I hardly ever use my holder but maybe thats because I hardly ever use my micrometers. I find most of the time my dial caliper is more practical.


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## PeterT (Dec 10, 2022)

The mic stand is a 'nice to have' maybe not a 'need to have'. Depends on your work & your dexterity. I find it stabilizes things, reduces hand induced variation such that your only remaining task is bring part to jaws & make the contact/clutch identical each time. On a bigger, heavier part, it is definately not the weapon of choice. Sometimes with different mic anvils (disc mic, wedge tip mic) & fiddly objects where you have to contact very specific areas of a part, its just more comfortable to have the mic isolated & stationary. Maybe it started out life on a factory floor environment where the days job was constantly checking parts, not sure.


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## garageguy (Dec 10, 2022)

That PA stand looks like a good unit. I've never seen one in the Regina store but would likely grab one if I did. As far as the blondihacks one, @PeterT pretty well summed it up. A heavier sturdier base is a must.


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## johnnielsen (Dec 10, 2022)

Just throwing it out there. How about using a small angle vise as a mike stand?


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## Six O Two (Dec 13, 2022)

johnnielsen said:


> Just throwing it out there. How about using a small angle vise as a mike stand?



That was my first thought too - Good secondary use for a Panavise or similar small swivel head vise.


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## DPittman (Dec 15, 2022)

DPittman said:


> Okay I'm taking one for the team.  Yes it's probably garbage as is but it might be useable or made to be useable.  Too cheap not to gamble. I've ordered and I'll report back when I get it.
> 
> LuckyHigh Precision Micrometer Holder Stand Cast Iron Base Rubber Lined Jaws Inspection Fixture https://a.co/d/aCZnthE
> 
> ...


Ok I recieved my $19 micrometer stand today so here are a few pictures and comments.

So as expected, this is not a well finished thing of beauty.  The paint is poor and casting is rough in spots.  

The weight is not excessive but I think perfectly adequate to hole a large micrometer. It only about 3-4" high so the centre of gravity is low.  The base has 3 rubber pads and because of that configuration it sit flat and does not rock or wobble.  

The clamp is made of aluminum and although I assumed it would also be cast iron, I suspect it really doesn't matter.  The clamp seems to function ok and holds a micrometer firmly.  The bolt used for the clamp pivot is excessively longer than it needs to be and I will likely trim it.  The bushing for that same bolt bobbles around in the casting hole but again it doesn't seem to negatively affect the function in anyway.

I likely reaping the thing just for fun but for $19 I think it is adequate.  I can't imagine how a Mitutoyo stand could be $125 better, but as I always say...ignorance is bliss.


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## Susquatch (Dec 15, 2022)

DPittman said:


> Ok I recieved my $19 micrometer stand today so here are a few pictures and comments.



Someplace I have a Sinclair holder that I have not used in years. I'll have to dig it out and give it a whirl again.


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## Canadium (Dec 15, 2022)

Looks like a Mitutoyo knock off? One thing I realized after posting about my accusize stand is that mine only only has one knob to turn as opposed to the two knobs on the Mit. I'm wondering if that wouldn't make the accusize stand easier to use? Are the Mit style stands awkward to use with two knobs???


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## Canadium (Dec 15, 2022)

There is another Mit micrometer holder with  an even lower center of gravity. An interesting design if you are looking for ideas for your own build.





						Mitutoyo 156-105 Micrometer Stands 0-25mm (0-1in) 25-50mm (1-2in)
					

Mitutoyo 156-105 Micrometer Stands 0-25mm (0-1in) 25-50mm (1-2in). Great savings and get fast delivery when you order online at ITM.com.




					www.itm.com


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## garageguy (Dec 15, 2022)

@DPittman , you did take one for the team, hats off to you. Just wondering, how does the bottom jaw work? is it hinged to the upper jaw or is it basically a flat piece with a threaded hole through it? My idea is to make the moveable jaw on a hinge, possibly with a spring to hold it open when not in use.


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## Susquatch (Dec 15, 2022)

Canadium said:


> There is another Mit micrometer holder with  an even lower center of gravity. An interesting design if you are looking for ideas for your own build.



Wow...... $92 bucks for a holder.....

Easy to see why you describe it as an "idea for your own build." 

I found the one I have. It grabs the spindle.


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## whydontu (Dec 15, 2022)

Mine is ancient, I think I got it from PA, all cast iron. Small dollar store clipboard.


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## DPittman (Dec 15, 2022)

garageguy said:


> @DPittman , you did take one for the team, hats off to you. Just wondering, how does the bottom jaw work? is it hinged to the upper jaw or is it basically a flat piece with a threaded hole through it? My idea is to make the moveable jaw on a hinge, possibly with a spring to hold it open when not in use.


Bottom jaw threaded to move up to the stationary top jaw as you thought.










Smoothed out the spot on the base mount where the jaws pivot against just to make a better contact surface.   Instead of cutting off the extra leth of the bolt I made a new longer better fitting bushing which brings the knob further away from the base which makes it a tiny bit more convenient.  And while I'm at it I'm sanding down the rough spot in the cast and will give it a repaint.  Nothing I'm doing is going to make it perform better, it will just make me feel better when I look at it.


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## Gearhead88 (Dec 15, 2022)

I rarely leave any of my shit stock either


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## combustable herbage (Dec 16, 2022)

When I pulled this base out of the junk I figured it would be good for a stand, still a work in progress deciding on an easy way of securing it, the "S" in the rod gives it a lot of maneuverability.


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## DPittman (Dec 17, 2022)

DPittman said:


> Bottom jaw threaded to move up to the stationary top jaw as you thought.
> View attachment 28971View attachment 28972View attachment 28973
> Smoothed out the spot on the base mount where the jaws pivot against just to make a better contact surface.   Instead of cutting off the extra leth of the bolt I made a new longer better fitting bushing which brings the knob further away from the base which makes it a tiny bit more convenient.  And while I'm at it I'm sanding down the rough spot in the cast and will give it a repaint.  Nothing I'm doing is going to make it perform better, it will just make me feel better when I look at it.


Some new wrinkle paint and fine tuning and now she looks pretty good.   Ya I think it wasn't too bad of a buy for $19.


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## garageguy (Dec 17, 2022)

That's a major improvement. Cool


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## Gearhead88 (Dec 17, 2022)

Much better


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## PeterT (Dec 17, 2022)

@DPittman I've been meaning to try wrinkle paint for certain applications like that. What brand/type is it? What I bought a while back is quite rubbery. Not sure if by design or a dud. I wanted it to be harder like a regular paint but textured like your picture


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## DPittman (Dec 17, 2022)

PeterT said:


> @DPittman I've been meaning to try wrinkle paint for certain applications like that. What brand/type is it? What I bought a while back is quite rubbery. Not sure if by design or a dud. I wanted it to be harder like a regular paint but textured like your picture


It's a little finicky getting it on right and when I can, I bake it to cure it up faster (as per directions)  but it is definitely not rubbery at all and can provide a nice finish for some stuff.

Here is a level I redid awhile ago that I was pleased with the finish as I thought it looked appropriate for the vintage and application.


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## PeterT (Dec 17, 2022)

Is baking a requirement to proper curing, or just to speed it up?


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## DPittman (Dec 17, 2022)

PeterT said:


> Is baking a requirement to proper curing, or just to speed it up?


Well the instructions on the can state "to cure paint, bake..."  
I didn't bake the clamps on the micrometer stand as they have rubber pads glued on them and I just let them air dry.  I can't tell the difference in finish but I haven't tested that area for durability.  My sense is that it is likely harder/better finish when baked.  Now to think of it, I repainted some racks on a quad/atv a few years ago and did not bake then due to the size.  The finish was not as hard/durable as the factory finish that looked about the same.  Whether or not my paint job would have been better with baking I'm not sure but I suspect so.


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## PeterT (Dec 17, 2022)

That might explain my results although usually I'm pretty good for reading the fine print. Next time at my favorite auto paint store I'll inquire. I know I've seen this finish in other applications where baking would be impractical if not impossible. Some of the spray bomb 'high temp' paints do require post cure to achieve the temp ratings, maybe what you have is high temp (first priority) and wrinkle finish (secondary effect) vs a product that is wrinkle but not intended for heat etc.


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## DPittman (Dec 17, 2022)

PeterT said:


> That might explain my results although usually I'm pretty good for reading the fine print. Next time at my favorite auto paint store I'll inquire. I know I've seen this finish in other applications where baking would be impractical if not impossible. Some of the spray bomb 'high temp' paints do require post cure to achieve the temp ratings, maybe what you have is high temp (first priority) and wrinkle finish (secondary effect) vs a product that is wrinkle but not intended for heat etc.


This stuff won't provide a nice winkle finish if it's not put on just right. It needs a few heavy coats applied within a fairly short time frame.  
If I can, I usually bake my small stuff that I've painted with justTremclad also.  I find it it takes a long time for Tremclad to get to its maximum hardness but baking it at about 200 degrees Fahrenheit "cures" that issue.


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## Gearhead88 (Dec 17, 2022)

Wrinkle / textured paint can be finicky , the example shown here turned out well .


I use it when restoring 40 + year old engines to make them look new .
The oven gives best results .
On some stuff , ifs fairly tedious work , masking , filing / sanding highlights to expose the alloy below  , each piece is treated with love .

Here's one I did recently , it got the full meal deal , each piece was hand massaged .


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## PeterT (Dec 17, 2022)

Nice bike. Now I'm more intrigued by this paint. And I don't even have a project in mind! 

Sorry about the subject tangent.


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## Tom O (Dec 17, 2022)




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## Susquatch (Dec 17, 2022)




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