# Looking at new lathe -- Opinions and Options



## kevin.decelles (Feb 15, 2018)

I'm in the early stages of looking for a new lathe, with new meaning new. 

I'm not into the CNC scene (not on the lathe) and enjoy the process of manual lathe work -- this is my relaxation, not my day-job.  As for a budget, 8K would be my max.  From what I've seen, a full on 14x40 blows past that pretty quick, so I've been looking at the 12x36 etc.  Modern Tool has  one labelled as C0636Ax1000 (which they classify as a 14x40), but some early reviews say this is more comparable to the Precision Mathews 13x40gt.

Switching to VFD at a later date is well within my wheelhouse and I have a spacious shop so space is not an issue.  

I love old equipment and using old vintage equipment -- my two existing lates are a Von Wyck 15x40 (circa 1903) , and a Sebastian (circa 1910) which is more of a bench top.  There are definitely limitations to this equipment (low speeds = no carbide = limits) so I'm looking to expand the shop.  Waiting for good-used-equipment is painful, given that I compete with the likes of all of you to reply to ads.


Ok, the questions to get things going.....(all answers directed at new equipment)

What are my options in Calgary?  (Modern / Busy Bee / Other?)
Is Busy Bee really an option? (My mills are from there, no real issues with the machine.... service is sketchy)
What about mail-order (Grizzly / Precision Mathews / Eisen Machinery / Other?)  
Is importing from USA a sane venture?
Regarding the Modern C0636Ax1000 -- any opinions good or bad?  (assume DRO / taper attachment etc). 
Any opinions on lease-to-own outside the obvious of paying interest?  Any gotchas there?
Overview of Modern Tool from a sales/support perspective?  Our meet-up in November was my first visit....


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## Janger (Feb 15, 2018)

Kevin I have the C0636Ax1000. I like it. Come try if you want. I found it used. The problem I see with the smaller lathes from craftex and others is the gear changing - frequent and very fussy.


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## Dabbler (Feb 15, 2018)

So... I've been looking at Modern and Precision Matthews.  I've not been impressed by the biggest Busy Bee lathe (I'd love to hear your opinion!)...

I think the PM and Eisen may be superior to Modern, but that is only the numbers, and not personal experience.  Modern wanted me to buy the BL1340 used, saying it would be a better purchase than the  C0636A1000. (!!)

I'm trying to buy a LeBlond 15X60 from a guy but the talks are going glacially slow!

I'm still  keeping Modern in mind, but am also watching the used market!

-  we seem to both be interested in similar lathes...


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## PeterT (Feb 15, 2018)

I'm pretty sure the C0636A is their own 'Modern' line from China. They have direct factory connections, specify certain features & upgrades, offer replacement parts, local delivery etc. I think its a decent machine, the thing is all imports have their warts & wrinkles IMO. You will probably find a few other very similar ones from other vendors, but you have to figure the all-in costs, particularly if coming from USA & they often package them differently (or not) in terms of DRO, taper attachment, chucks, stand, etc. All that costs money. Personally I cant see an economic case with say a Grizzly. It might be similar enough, but now your support lifeline is far away. KBC offers similar ones too +/- cost FOB Vancouver, but I hear there is nothing to see in the showroom. King in Eastern Canada has both Taiwan & China type models, but you are dealing with disinterested folks from my personal experience. Personally I think Modern is great to deal with. And yes things can go wrong with machines. Get Modern to email you the full manual so you have an idea of parts & functionality (I may still have a copy).

The 1340GT is from Taiwan, allegedly a little cleaner around the edges, but its all about what you want & need. China vs Taiwan was a bigger gap 10 years ago, but I think the gap is closing. At least one person on our forum had a good import experience with PM. Some of PM's other lathes & mills are from China & you will recognize similarities. (Some people think all PM's are from Taiwan, not true).
http://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1340gt/
This guy tricked out a 1340 to an insane level. Anyway shows you some of the innards. There is also a PM subforum on that website.
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm1340-the-best-jacobs-full-custom-edition.58507/


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## PeterT (Feb 15, 2018)

Another one
http://www.moderntool.com/products/modern-14-swing-40-between-centers-ml-1440v-ml-1440vs-lathe/

And I don't recall seeing this one recently
http://www.moderntool.com/products/modern-14-swing-40-between-centers-ml-1440v-ml-1440vs-lathe-2/

Best you pay them a visit. Seems to me the web site models might be a bit different than what's on the floor, at least I know that for sure re the GH 1440W (bigger yet).


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## kylemp (Feb 15, 2018)

If you just can't wait then the precision Matthews or the machines from kbc or enco are probably the way to go. If you CAN wait, or go back in time, try and find one like the 16x40 I just sold a month or so ago.. it was Spanish and a HEAVY lathe.. nothing like the 14x40s you see for sale new.
Anything heavy and a bit older or made by a manufacturer of large machines is your best bet in my opinion. Maybe you can find a master 2500 or something for a reasonable price.
As far as after sale service - I wouldn't count on places like kms or busy bee. They sell them and getting parts is like pulling teeth. Modern has good support but as far as I know you'll pay for it. The same is true with colchester from my experience.. one shaft with a gear on it was going to run me 2600usd from them if I recall correctly. In all likelihood you'll want to either just be able to buy the parts new or used and put them on yourself if you need to.


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## Dabbler (Feb 16, 2018)

One of the things favouring  the PM is the 2" spindle bore for some models.  I've always had a great relationship with Modertn tool - they guys seem to go out of their way to be helpful!  I'm keeping in touch to see what they get in used.  I might even buy one of their new ones if I can save enough.

I agree with Kyle bigger and heavier is better!  (the timing was wrong for me or I might have tried to buy Kyle's lathe)


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## kevin.decelles (Feb 16, 2018)

Great info -- exactly what I was looking for

@Janger I'll take u up on the offer to see your lathe again

@PeterT the quote from modern on those other 14x40s was north or 11k, more than I can justify

@kylemp I was in the fence between new and used. Some great machines out there, but some real worm crap too, too much money for the risk imho. My Von wyck was a risk, but then again it would have looked good as a piece of art in my living room if it hadn't worked

Thx again



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## Alexander (Feb 16, 2018)

Modern tool does have Lease One Financial. It is a no strings attached rent to own program. If you are starting your own business you can use the lease payment as tax deduction. The buy out at the end is only about %5 and interest is really low. It is a better option than buying a machine to a set budget. Machining is hard but with the right machine it is easier.


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## kevin.decelles (Feb 16, 2018)

I already started a dialog with them, to get an idea of options . Budget is budget though, whether it is lump sum or monthly. Either way , this makes me no revenue ..... it is the same to me as buying a boat or a new truck. Without an avenue to write it off u need to be at peace with the total

I do have a trade name registered though, perhaps I'll hang out my shingle and machine parts for Von wyck lathes...... I see years of net losses ahead to write off against




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## John Conroy (Feb 16, 2018)

I was in Modern's show room recently and took some pictures of the C036A 14 X 40. This model has had some upgrade in the past year and now comes with a 2" spindle bore like the PM machines as well as D1-5 chuck mounting instead of the 1.5" spindle bore and D1-4 of the plevious  model. It also comes with a taper attachment, QCTP and a factory installed DRO. The price is better than the similar PM machine if you factor in the taper attachment. It looks like a very nice machine to me.


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## PeterT (Feb 16, 2018)

kevin.decelles said:


> @PeterT the quote from modern on those other 14x40s was north or 11k, more than I can justify
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Sorry, I missed your 8K ceiling target. ~Mar-2017 Modern quoted on : C0636A = $7495 and GH 1440W = $12,974, both comparably outfitted with similar stand, DRO & chucks. Prices do fluctuate but unless the currency is working in favor, yes that might eliminate the other machines.


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## PeterT (Feb 16, 2018)

John Conroy said:


> ... C036A 14 X 40. This model has had some upgrade in the past year and now comes with a 2" spindle bore like the PM machines as well as D1-5 chuck mounting instead of the 1.5" spindle bore and D1-4



Good point John. This model has changed from the time spec sheet was given to me.
PRO: bigger spindle bore = accommodates larger diameter through stock = more useful
CON: (person dependent) if you happen to have inventory D1-4 3J/4J chucks, collet chuck, faceplate etc. that either has to be converted (if it can) or sell to replicate, then it might figure into the $$ picture. OTOH if the new rotating tooling that comes with lathe meets your needs, not as big a factor.


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## kevin.decelles (Feb 16, 2018)

They quoted me the same price yesterday , same spec d1-4


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## PeterT (Feb 16, 2018)

If the D1-4 vs. 5 is an issue maybe check with them. Could be a boo-boo. I know for the longest time (maybe even still?) the web page listed a different (bigger) model for the GH 1440W then what was on the floor.


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## John Conroy (Feb 16, 2018)

You're right Peter, their web site is showing old product. Even the manual the sales guy emailed me Is for the old machine. Not sure why they don't update it.


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## Tom Kitta (Feb 20, 2018)

Given "new" and a budget of $8000 fro 14x40 I would say you will be forced to buy new Chinese or Taiwanese machine. 

For smaller machines you could try Busy Bee - but they only have one old 14x40 for around $6000 which I am not sure is worth that. Their max is probably 12x36 bench machine. Similar for KMS - except you get a King Canada 12x36. 

For other new options from China / Taiwan you can look on the internet - say eBay (or even Amazon (!)) Grizzly is an option but its not "cheap" - at least you get excellent parts support.

My view is that a lot of machines are made in the same factory and painted in different colours. If I could I would go for Taiwanese over Chinese most of the time.

I personally try to go for used machines - but that requires a lot of experience and even then is a bit of a lottery - through some people run into issues with brand new stuff as well - usually bigger brand new stuff.


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## Dabbler (Feb 20, 2018)

I talked to Modern Tool today on another matter.  During the discussion I found out that their 1440 is, in fact $7800, and they are getting a shipment in at that price.  The spindle has 2" clear, and it does have D1-5 camlock.   It comes with a 4 jaw and 3 jaw and taper attachment... For me, the  metric/imperial threading on the QC gearbox makes it very attractive!

At that price, it isn't worth shipping a sight-unseen PM 14".


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## Tom Kitta (Feb 20, 2018)

https://www.amazon.com/Bolton-Tools...F8&qid=1519187307&sr=8-4&keywords=lathe+14x40

There - save a $1000 for another clone - you need to pick it up at the border. Compare what you get with each company but my feeling is you probably get here more for less $$$.

Maybe you can get even better deal if you look but you need to pick it up at the border. As usual it takes minutes to beat local price.


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## John Conroy (Feb 21, 2018)

That one doesn't come with a taper attachment or a DRO like the Modern Tool machine so the price is not much better. I think, in this case, Modern has the best deal.


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## Tom Kitta (Feb 21, 2018)

There is attachment on the picture. But do ask. In the worst case its around $300 - https://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-M10...d=1519228513&sr=8-5&keywords=taper+attachment DRO is also $300 - just send email and compare.

You can always ask modern for a discount as you have a competitor.


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## RobinHood (Feb 22, 2018)

Did you see this ad?

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-power-tool/...he/1334072338?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true


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## Tom Kitta (Feb 22, 2018)

Nice find - if he can remove the "new" condition on a lathe this one can be had for half his budget. If it is indeed in like new condition the extra 4k can go towards tooling or an upgraded milling machine or future CNC.

There is no DRO on this one but I do see tapering attachment on the back. Chinese DRO for a lathe is at most $300 & BXA QCTP is around 250 for a set. Also doesn't include a handy light at the top - which could be extra $100 (I got mine used for $50).


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## Janger (Feb 22, 2018)

@kevin.decelles look what the guys found!


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## kevin.decelles (Feb 22, 2018)

I'm looking! Thx for the heads up.... 


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## buckbrush (Feb 23, 2018)

If your not in a hurry, there is a part time machine tool dealer who can save you a lot over Modern tool prices. He sells mostly in Saskatchawan  but does ship to Calgary.  

Bob Yaworski    yawor@sasktel.net


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## Alexander (Feb 23, 2018)

Plus delivery on all machines at modern tool is always free.


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## Colten Edwards (Mar 6, 2018)

not quite true on modern tool shipping. I was just quoted 750 to ship from edmonton to delisle,sk.


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## PeterT (Mar 6, 2018)

I think Alex was referring to 'in Calgary'. The OP was asking about options in the city. 
But yes, always have to factor in the FOB price plus shipping expense.


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## Tom Kitta (Mar 6, 2018)

I talked to someone at the meeting where Alex was at Modern few months back that the shipping of his CNC was indeed free but it has been around a month & he still didn't get it. He even showed his machine on the warehouse floor. He said he paid for it already. Not sure how much that matters to the OP but just thrown it out given the company & what I was told.


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## Dabbler (Mar 6, 2018)

A lot of factors affect shipping delays.  I would rather hear from the buyer him/her self on the matter for a complete story.


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## Alexander (Mar 6, 2018)

The machine Tom is referring to was being set up and there were a few things that needed extra calibration. When you buy a machine Modern will test it before it leaves the building. The customer also ordered a power drawbar which did not come standard on that machine. My CNC lathe was the same experience it took a little longer then expected to get it ready but they were troubleshooting the tool changer for almost 2 days. CNC adds a new level of complexity. I'm sure a manual lathe will be allot easier to set up but they still do a test cut and align the headstock and tail stock before delivering it. As for the free shipping I meant in Calgary.


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## kevin.decelles (Mar 7, 2018)

Well, the latest posts make this a timely update.......

It's a boy! I pulled the trigger on the c0636a over the past week and took my delivery yesterday (free)

I live about 11 minutes straight east from modern, the last set of lights they hit was the ones on 114th ave

Delivery was smoooooooth, took 20 minutes and we put it 5 feet inside the shop

Sales (Daljit ) and delivery (Joe ) were top notch . Alexander is correct, they ran in the machine, did A test cut etc. 

I wired it up last night and let it run in various speeds for 20 minutes each, No chips made yet




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## kevin.decelles (Mar 7, 2018)

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## kevin.decelles (Mar 7, 2018)

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## kevin.decelles (Mar 7, 2018)

I've added a crane truck to my hoarding wish list btw, damn that was slick.....


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## kevin.decelles (Mar 7, 2018)

Payment to delivery was 4 days, but it required some flexibility on my part. The delivery team headed out yesterday to Toronto to make drops and pickups along the way, probably out for 7-10 days, which will delay local deliveries


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## kevin.decelles (Mar 7, 2018)

I mentioned to Daljit that had we not had the demo session, I'd likely have not bought from them, as my impression was that they were industrial only. I said that I figure they lose many other sales to kms/busy bee because of that very impression. 

I reccomended  another session, perhaps targeted at the machines for the hobbiest that are most in demand such as the band saws , 14x40 lathes and smaller lathes etc.

Sales are sales..... he seemed interested 


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## Janger (Mar 7, 2018)

Awesome Kevin. It will be interesting to compare notes. First question - how far back does the compound go? Mine seems to stop at center of chuck preventing turning pieces from the back. I can't decide if it's stuck or if that is as far it goes.


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## Tom Kitta (Mar 7, 2018)

Congratulations on your new purchase!


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## Dabbler (Mar 7, 2018)

Well done!  Let us know how it performs!


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## Janger (Mar 7, 2018)

Interesting they lifted it partly from the bed casting. @Dabbler ?


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## kevin.decelles (Mar 7, 2018)

Ya, you had to look away.... the rationale is that the other lift bar can't be used without crushing the chip shield which in looking at it mow is 100% true 

The apron and tooling is moved left so most of the weight is on the primary sling

What was more disturbing was that they had short sling it for the final 3 feet which meant a sling around the chuck assembly. For a 3 foot move .....

But hey, that is a key reason I had it delivered vs buying a grizzly/pm machine and getting it at the border. warranty [emoji51]


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## Tom Kitta (Mar 7, 2018)

Forklift to move stuff sounds like a better idea - more options. Especially for heavier machines than this one. 

Let us know how it cuts!


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## Janger (Mar 7, 2018)

kevin.decelles said:


> Ya, you had to look away.... the rationale is that the other lift bar can't be used without crushing the chip shield which in looking at it mow is 100% true
> 
> The apron and tooling is moved left so most of the weight is on the primary sling
> 
> ...



Here’s dabbler marshalling cats with my lathe.  If you look close you can see the rebar and pinch bar through both lift points. We took the back chip shield off. Thanks again John for the huge help.


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## kevin.decelles (Mar 7, 2018)

In the shop I'll remove the chip tray and gantry it from the lifting holes on both sides.... 


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## PeterT (Mar 7, 2018)

Interesting. I don't have a commercial stand & therefore also no bar holes. But when i saw them on another lathe I thought that is the slam dunk method to hoist. But it looks like the straps connections have to be further out to avoid pressing on the tray? (red line example) -is that what you are saying. Even on this other move pic it looks like the strap is deflecting off the box (green arrow), but maybe that wasn't loading mode.

Anyways, congrats on the new machine.


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## Dabbler (Mar 7, 2018)

When most of the weight is being held on the headstock lift points it is acceptable to lift it using an eye bolt from the way's web.  It is a judgement call.  If I can use the lifting holes, I always will.  In this case they did everything right!  It is covered in older copies of 'The Riggers handbook'. (I don't have a newer one).


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## Janger (Mar 7, 2018)

PeterT said:


> Interesting. I don't have a commercial stand & therefore also no bar holes. But when i saw them on another lathe I thought that is the slam dunk method to hoist. But it looks like the straps connections have to be further out to avoid pressing on the tray? (red line example) -is that what you are saying. Even on this other move pic it looks like the strap is deflecting off the box (green arrow), but maybe that wasn't loading mode.
> 
> Anyways, congrats on the new machine.


The straps were so far out to avoid the lead screw the motor and other protuberances. We had to adjust the straps after this was taken.


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## RobinHood (Mar 8, 2018)

For big machines, Modern has spreader bars that they use to keep the slings from pinching / crushing protuberances like lead screws, chip pans, etc., if required. It keeps the slings parallel to clear the obstacles and then forms the triangle above and toward the hook.

Here is a picture of how Standard Modern suggest to lift a 1340 lathe. One does lift it by the bed.






It does not have the lifting bar holes in the base like the bigger machines do. This method works very well. Use the carriage to adjust the balance and away you go.


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## PeterT (Mar 8, 2018)

I'm starting to think there is a lot more to rigging than meets the eye. On another forum a guy was wanting to do that lifting 1340 type layout on a bigger lathe, but there was basically no open web close to the headstock and he couldn't or didn't want to remove the gap section. When they latched on to the bed opening closest to the headstock & eased it up, the c/g was not working to their advantage. I guess so much more weight on the headstock side (on that particular lathe) & it wanted to tilt that way.

The stand through holes look good to the eye and I'm sure they figured out the math beforehand. But the holes also seem low relative to the vertical c/g, meaning most of the lathe mass occurs above these holes so potential topside heavy situation? That's why I was wondering if the straps should be contacting the lathe a bit just to stabilize it from roll? Anyway, if a new machine comes my way, I want it to be the same outfit that pays if its rolling down the street haha.


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## Tom Kitta (Mar 8, 2018)

When I moved my old lathe I just put blocks of wood under the bed and moved it that way when forklift was there. Certainly the pictures show a major operation with multiple people present vs. me and my dad with two pry bars getting it off the trailer - and all my machines are at least 2x as heavy as that lathe. Maybe its time to get a lot of cases of beer & invite everyone here to a moving party once my new garage is ready?

BTW, what do you do once you remove the gap from the bed - how do you align it so it fits back perfectly?


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## kevin.decelles (Mar 8, 2018)

When I bought my old Von wyck, the previous owner showed me the sweet spot to use a sling basket under the bed and picked it up with a front end loader . When I unloaded, it used the gantry and it balanced perfectly with one sling . One inch either way and it was a rodeo

Reference: the Von wyck was ~1600 lbs


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## Dabbler (Mar 8, 2018)

Tom, all gap bed lathes have taper pins which help to relocate the gap.  Everything has to be surgically clean or it won't align back to the same spot.  Doing it properly results in alignment withing a tenth or 2.  That is the best you can do.


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## Janger (Mar 8, 2018)

Tom Kitta said:


> When I moved my old lathe I just put blocks of wood under the bed and moved it that way when forklift was there. Certainly the pictures show a major operation with multiple people present vs. me and my dad with two pry bars getting it off the trailer - and all my machines are at least 2x as heavy as that lathe. Maybe its time to get a lot of cases of beer & invite everyone here to a moving party once my new garage is ready?
> 
> BTW, what do you do once you remove the gap from the bed - how do you align it so it fits back perfectly?



I think less is more. We had too many people. The rigger showed up with 3 guys. Plus me?’, John, the seller and one more buddy. Honestly it took longer and was harder than with two or three we had at the other end. Then I moved it the last 12 feet on my own and lowered down to the floor with pry bar and one plank at a time.


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## Dabbler (Mar 9, 2018)

I've moved 5 machines over 1000 lbs all by myself: off a truck or trailer, over soft ground/gravel and into location.  It is always much harder when there are more than 2 people helping.  My biggest was over 3500 lbs.  it just tool a little longer, but was not too hard.


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## kevin.decelles (Mar 12, 2018)

Just saw this on Kijiji - https://www.kijiji.ca/v-tool-other/red-deer/metal-lathe/1338931540?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

I'd love to know what this sells for...... 

From the stamp on the front, looks like 2001 model.


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## Dabbler (Mar 12, 2018)

Good find, Kevin!


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## Tom Kitta (Mar 12, 2018)

It seems to be in good condition and even has a QCTP tool post on it. The rust on the chuck is nothing. I don't think it can be inspected under power. I would guess easily >3000CAD. That is without even looking this lathe specs & without any deep inspection.


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## PeterT (Mar 12, 2018)

I'd venture any required parts could be sourced from Modern, its their sticker brand. Looks like general lack of TLC if the story is true. Hopefully it was moved properly. All it takes is some straps around the lead screw/power feed bars to mess things up. Somebody take that puppy home & get it off the dirt floor kennel.


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## Dabbler (Mar 13, 2018)

It depends on too many factors to price until and exam is made.  IMHO  with all that rust, I'd guess less.


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## kevin.decelles (Mar 13, 2018)

The manual (hahaha) that came with the Modern Tool machine is a little 'lacking' for detail, and doesn't identify the type(s) of oils to use in the headstock etc.

I was browsing the Precision Matthews site and looked at the manual for the PM-1440E-LB lathe and was pleasantly surprised to find out it is essentially the same machine -- as in identical.  I went through the part schematics, all the diagrams are identical, all the part numbers identical etc. The difference is that the PM manual is 50 pages and extremely detailed.  Thank-you PM.

As a note, when you factor in shipping (to the border) and exchange, the machine was the same price as Modern.  Food for though on anyone who was on the fence like I was re: importing a machine.

PM-14040E-LB = Modern Tool C0636A


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## Tom Kitta (Mar 13, 2018)

I was under impression most manual lathes should use type 32 oil in the main gear box and something a bit heavier in say threading gearbox / saddle gearbox. Reason for 32 hydraulic oil was that it doesn't create too much resistance during cold starts. They just had a pile of 32 at princess auto for like $45. Its few times more than needed for a 14x40 lathe.


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## PeterT (Mar 13, 2018)

Yes, PM does a great job creating nice 'aftermarket' manuals. Some of Grizzly's are pretty good too. Nice clear pictures & more detail on maintenance & setup.


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## Dabbler (Mar 18, 2018)

For industrial lathes it is very common to not include all the information, such as oil choices. I've run into this a lot. The excuse is that oil gets better with time as the technology changes - you are expected to go to your lube dealer and buy the best for your described application.  I used to care that I get the 'perfect' oil, now I'm of he opinion 'any lube is better than no lube' - so I use medium weight gear oil in gear boxes, etc.  Some common sense apples.  Way oil is kinda special, you can use 10W30 motor oil for a while, but it just doesn't stick to the ways the same, so I bought 5 gallons  of SAE 68 way oil to ensure I have a supply (I  couldn't find less!)

PM does such a complete job b/c they intend to sell to hobbyists, who prefer the information!

One very common mistake I've found is using transmission oil in gear boxes - then the seals get eroded and they leak.  Transmission oil should never be used in gear boxes.


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## PeterT (Mar 18, 2018)

KBC sells different weight flavors of EEZ way oil in 1 gal qty for ~26$ Dabbler. Some buddies could probably split that because it goes a long ways. Get it, 'ways' Haha


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## Dabbler (Mar 18, 2018)

Too bad I've already go 5 gal Shell 'Tonna' way oil! - mind you it was only 66$... lifetime supply!


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## Janger (Mar 18, 2018)

PeterT said:


> KBC sells different weight flavors of EEZ way oil in 1 gal qty for ~26$ Dabbler. Some buddies could probably split that because it goes a long ways. Get it, 'ways' Haha



That's a great idea! Look in the questions thread!


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## kevin.decelles (Mar 18, 2018)

I bought 5 gallons of way oil from kbc last year to test their shipping policy. 50lbs shipped for 8 bucks flat rate -- true to their word

It's was the eez oil at sae 30 viscosity -- I like it fine

As u said, life time supply !


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## Tom Kitta (Mar 18, 2018)

Is SAE 68 good way oil - or is it the way oil? I think I have some 68 oil & I never used it as a way oil.


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## Dabbler (Mar 18, 2018)

It is not just the weight, but 68 is not gong anywhere fast.  I'm sure it will be fine.  What makes it 'way' oil is the additive that make it sticky;  (yes, they call them 'stiction' additives!)

68 is just the right weght.  |I'd use the 68 in a heartbeat, it's just that you use a little more because it oozes off quicker than 68 Tonna will.


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## PeterT (Mar 19, 2018)

SAE 68 or ISO 68?
I think I bought SAE-20 way oil, I should go check. It makes things run nice & smooth & hangs around for a while. I also use it on vise slides, lead screws, all the lathe oiler nipples that lead to sliding parts. Maybe I'd go one higher like 30, after that I wonder if its getting too sticky? Maybe Alex knows but I think the CNC guys also want anti-wash-off properties with the fluids squirting away & machines running all day long & possibly that's why extra viscous is offered? I've never tried anything else so I really don't know.

The thing about SAE scale 10,20,30...50, it seems like linear progression. But the viscosity is increasing exponentially. Here are the EEZ specs KBC sells. http://www.mullenoil.com/images/Lit-EEZ-WayOil.pdf
The units are SUS (Saybolt Universal Seconds). Its easy to visualize practically. If SAE20 oil flows through a defined orifice in 353 seconds, the same volume of SAE 50 takes 1150 seconds. And these viscosity are referenced at 100F (38C). At typical ~15C room temp, they will all be higher yet.

handy dandy chart
http://www.doolittleoil.com/faq/viscosity-sae-iso-or-agma


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## Dabbler (Mar 19, 2018)

I'm not bilingual, I'm afraid - SAE for me!!!


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## PeterT (Mar 19, 2018)

Tom did say SAE 68, but I was more wondering out loud - gear oil? motor oil? or maybe it was ISO? The resultant viscosities are quite different depending on which '68'.


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