# CNC plasma cutter build



## David_R8 (Jan 25, 2021)

I've been eyeing various CNC plasma cutters online but could not justify the thousands they command. Even the lowly Langmuir Crossfire is a solid $1500USD plus shipping and exchange, likely end up close to 2K CDN. And I still need a plasma cutter.
So I started looking around at CNC builds.
Biggest criteria is size; it had to be small enough to fit on my 2x3 welding table or be portable enough to store out of the way.
Discovered Dacs Garage and his design.





Watched all the videos several times and decided to spend $10 for the plans which include .dxf file so the pieces can be waterjet cut if so desired.
The electronics are an Arduino Duo controller running GRBL and Universal G-Code uploader.
I run a Macbook so no Mach 3 or 4 as they require a PC. I may do that in the future but i need to get my feet wet first.
Parts are on order so follow along as I venture into a completely unknown land.


----------



## kevin.decelles (Jan 25, 2021)

Yeah baby!  It makes runaway g-code crashes more interesting thats for sure.  

I may take part of this journey with you.....  I have an interest in the Arduino/GRBL side.   Currently running a LinuxCNC install and I like the ability to 'tweak' as required.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 25, 2021)

kevin.decelles said:


> Yeah baby! It makes runaway g-code crashes more interesting thats for sure.
> 
> I may take part of this journey with you..... I have an interest in the Arduino/GRBL side. Currently running a LinuxCNC install and I like the ability to 'tweak' as required.



It’s my first foray into CNC so I’m sure that I’ll mess up lots. 
I did manage to load GRBL onto the Arduino board last night so that’s a win.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 25, 2021)

@kevin.decelles perhaps you can answer a question for me.
What is an Arduino CNC shield and what does it do?
The plans I have do not include one. It's just PC -->Adrduino Uno-->steppers


----------



## kevin.decelles (Jan 25, 2021)

Think of it as an all in one package, arduino, controller/driver etc

https://m.all3dp.com/2/arduino-cnc-shield-buyers-guide/


----------



## kevin.decelles (Jan 25, 2021)

My first 3d printer was a rerap clone (GEEETECH) (yes, three e's).  It ran a GT2560 which is an Arduino 2560 mega + a ramps 1.4 (stepper driver/controller and inputs).  It is a single board, and runs Marlin firmware.  It supports up to 5 steppers etc.     I have two of these on a shelf (upgraded to a Ender Pro 3) so these may be put into duty.  They are old school, and may not ultimately have enough juice to support a larger driver/stepper.

The good part......  out of the box firmware for 3d printing,  probably software out there for CNC.

The 'shield' part is what are you connecting your stepper motors to?  You'll have a driver chip, that plugs into a board, that accepts your inputs..... this is the shield.  That in turn connects to your Uno (although I'd probably get an integrated one as it will likely just work).

I see a pile of them on Amazon for 30-50 bucks.   

The GT2560 has the A4988 drivers which are good to a max of 2A.


----------



## Johnwa (Jan 25, 2021)

I think the 2A ratings of the A4998 and the 2.5A rating of the DRV 8825 are optimistic.  I’ve cratered a few running at less than 1.5A.  
I find the TB6600s(rated 4A) are way more robust and still relatively inexpensive.  They are external drives so you don’t end up with as neat of package as an Arduino+CNC shield though.


----------



## JohnnyTK (Jan 26, 2021)

Very Cool! Noted if required in the future.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 26, 2021)

kevin.decelles said:


> Think of it as an all in one package, arduino, controller/driver etc
> 
> https://m.all3dp.com/2/arduino-cnc-shield-buyers-guide/


Am I correct in thinking that if I'm planning to use stepper drivers I don't need a CNC shield?


----------



## Johnwa (Jan 26, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Am I correct in thinking that if I'm planning to use stepper drivers I don't need a CNC shield?


The shield uses the A4988 or DRV8825 drivers that plug directly into the shield.   If you’re  using something bigger you don’t need the shield.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 26, 2021)

I was investigating parts for this CNC router and even ordering from overseas the parts list with shipping get close to what a new machine such as this costs.
Mind you, build my own lets me build exactly what I want.


----------



## JohnnyTK (Jan 27, 2021)

I was looking at the Crossfire Table, you have to weigh is this to generate revenue or just for hobby purposes? If it is to generate revenue, the quickest and most efficient route is to purchase. But if time is not a factor and you want to gain fabrication experience then building in my opinion is the way to go. I'm at the crossroads myself do I continue on a hobby that is just an outlay of money such as wooden boat building(rarely break even when sold) or do I transition into micro machining and develop my business on that side? Or maybe I will just make cutting boards. Ah life's questions.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 27, 2021)

JohnnyTK said:


> I was looking at the Crossfire Table, you have to weigh is this to generate revenue or just for hobby purposes? If it is to generate revenue, the quickest and most efficient route is to purchase. But if time is not a factor and you want to gain fabrication experience then building in my opinion is the way to go. I'm at the crossroads myself do I continue on a hobby that is just an outlay of money such as wooden boat building(rarely break even when sold) or do I transition into micro machining and develop my business on that side? Or maybe I will just make cutting boards. Ah life's questions.


Including my import plasma cutter, I will be in for about $900 for the plasma cutter.
I could have done it less expensively I think if I knew more about what I was doing.


----------



## JohnnyTK (Jan 27, 2021)

QUOTE="David_R8, post: 36503, member: 1518"]Including my import plasma cutter, I will be in for about $900 for the plasma cutter.
I could have done it less expensively I think if I knew more about what I was doing.[/QUOTE]
Does that include the Plasma also or just the cutting table? Also can you share your source.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 27, 2021)

JohnnyTK said:


> QUOTE="David_R8, post: 36503, member: 1518"]Including my import plasma cutter, I will be in for about $900 for the plasma cutter.
> I could have done it less expensively I think if I knew more about what I was doing.


Does that include the Plasma also or just the cutting table? Also can you share your source.[/QUOTE]
All in it will be ~900.
I bought plans for the design shown in the first post. That was $13
Then I sourced the parts from places like Amazon, Bearings Canada, Makerparts and McMaster-Carr. Total was $625
The plasma cutter was $289 from Ebay.


----------



## JohnnyTK (Jan 27, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Does that include the Plasma also or just the cutting table? Also can you share your source.


All in it will be ~900.
I bought plans for the design shown in the first post. That was $13
Then I sourced the parts from places like Amazon, Bearings Canada, Makerparts and McMaster-Carr. Total was $625
The plasma cutter was $289 from Ebay.[/QUOTE]
Thanks David.


----------



## Johnwa (Jan 27, 2021)

If you’re in the Vancouver area,  https://www.rmmc.net/8020/  in Langley is a great place to get 8020 extrusions.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 27, 2021)

Johnwa said:


> If you’re in the Vancouver area,  https://www.rmmc.net/8020/  in Langley is a great place to get 8020 extrusions.


In fact I've been corresponding with them. Very helpful folks!


----------



## PeterT (Jan 27, 2021)

That's a good link Johnwa. I've always been curious about that stuff. Even a downloadable excel pricelist.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 27, 2021)

PeterT said:


> That's a good link Johnwa. I've always been curious about that stuff. Even a downloadable excel pricelist.


The voluminous catalogue available: http://catalogs.8020.net/?bookcode=02319enu


----------



## PeterT (Jan 27, 2021)

Johnwa said:


> If you’re in the Vancouver area,  https://www.rmmc.net/8020/  in Langley is a great place to get 8020 extrusions.



Has anyone had experience with them shipping items  to you?
or @Johnwa maybe that's what you meant by 'if you're in the area' (ie. maybe spendy).


----------



## Johnwa (Jan 27, 2021)

I picked some up when I visited Vancouver.
Downside of that is you have to forecast what you might need, buy more than you need, and explain to your wife why.


----------



## PeterT (Jan 27, 2021)

Why it’s a modular brushed aluminum shoe rack of course. I was just resting the motor there....


----------



## Janger (Jan 27, 2021)

I bought and tried out this GRBL shield: https://github.com/synthetos/grblShield/wiki 

This is the picture from the web site. It attaches to an Arduino. I hooked up some stepper motors and was thinking about CNC plasma table. I didn't make much progress beyond that. The shield drives the motors but also it interprets the GCODE and runs the motors from the program appropriately. Significant step that. I was using a java based program on Mac to communicate with the board - kind of a Mach like piece of software. Now if I could only remember what it was called. That was a computer or two ago so it's not on the machine I'm using anymore.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 27, 2021)

Janger said:


> I bought and tried out this GRBL shield: https://github.com/synthetos/grblShield/wiki
> 
> This is the picture from the web site. It attaches to an Arduino. I hooked up some stepper motors and was thinking about CNC plasma table. I didn't make much progress beyond that. The shield drives the motors but also it interprets the GCODE and runs the motors from the program appropriately. Significant step that. I was using a java based program on Mac to communicate with the board - kind of a Mach like piece of software. Now if I could only remember what it was called. That was a computer or two ago so it's not on the machine I'm using anymore.
> 
> View attachment 12952


So the design I'm leaning on has the steppers driven by the Arduino Uno board. Is there a piece of technology that I'm missing here?
(I'm a complete stranger in a strange land...)


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 27, 2021)

PeterT said:


> Has anyone had experience with them shipping items  to you?
> or @Johnwa maybe that's what you meant by 'if you're in the area' (ie. maybe spendy).


They do ship, and the rates seem really reasonable.
For example shipping for four pieces of  24" long 1"x3" 1030 to me is $15.
Four 72" long pieces of the same is $35 by courier.

Edit: a bit of price checking reveals that their extrusion prices are very good.
A 995mm long piece of 2040 is $14.85
Banggood has the identical profile. A 350mm length is $12. A 1000mm length is $27 shipped from the US


----------



## Johnwa (Jan 28, 2021)

@David_R8 the board @Janger posted has built in stepper drivers that are similar to the plug in one I posted a picture of.  I don’t know which drivers are recommended in the plans that you have.  For larger Nema 23s I’d recommend ones like these
https://www.amazon.ca/TB6600-Stepper-Driver-Controller-tb6600/dp/B07B9ZQF5D
They are about half that price direct from China.  One other thing, unless you’re going to solder directly to the Arduino board get a screw terminal shield.  They bring out the Arduino pins to screw terminals.
The software Janger referred to is a gcode sender.  There are many choices but I assume there is a specific one for a plasma cutter.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 28, 2021)

Thanks @Johnwa
Those look to be basically the same I have coming: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07SBZ9SM5?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 28, 2021)

A big box of parts arrived today from McMaster-Carr. 
Just need to get some parts waterjet cut and I can start building!


----------



## JohnnyTK (Jan 28, 2021)

I can not wait to see the completed build.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 28, 2021)

JohnnyTK said:


> I can not wait to see the completed build.


Me too to be honest.
I'm such a complete CNC newbie that I sometimes misspell CNC


----------



## Chicken lights (Jan 28, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Me too to be honest.
> I'm such a complete CNC newbie that I sometimes misspell CNC


I mentioned it before but I had a customs agent ask me once what “CNC” stood for. I actually drew a blank, I couldn’t have told you. They made me go find the brokers office and print off a paper explaining what a “CNC lathe” was


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 28, 2021)

Well the plasma cutter arrived. And it's not what I ordered. So back it goes.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 28, 2021)

A small victory today...
I was struggling to get my CAD-->CAM-->postprocess to work. Kept getting an error on the post. 
Kept at it and actually produced gcode to cut out a square. 
It's the little things...


----------



## YotaBota (Jan 28, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> I'm such a complete CNC newbie that I sometimes misspell CNC


Did you spell it backwards???? lol


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 28, 2021)

Sent the dxf file to the water jet folks!


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 28, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Well the plasma cutter arrived. And it's not what I ordered. So back it goes.



The seller was very apologetic and sent me a prepaid UPS shipping label within two hours of asking to return the item. 

I have a different make and model ordered now.


----------



## Janger (Jan 29, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Sent the dxf file to the water jet folks!
> View attachment 12963


How much David and what material etc.?


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 29, 2021)

Janger said:


> How much David and what material etc.?


All is 1/8" mild steel except for the rectangular piece which is 3/16". I don't have an estimate yet but I expect it will be pretty cheap.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 30, 2021)

A big step today!
I managed to get F360 to postprocess my CAM file and get UGS to send it to my Arduino board.
For a complete rookie this is a big deal


----------



## Brent H (Jan 30, 2021)

What Plasma cutter are you going with @David_R8?  I gather it would need to have a start/stop feature that can be remotely controlled by the computer?


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 30, 2021)

Brent H said:


> What Plasma cutter are you going with @David_R8?  I gather it would need to have a start/stop feature that can be remotely controlled by the computer?


I'm actually building it. Pop back to the first post in the thread for a photo of a completed build.
UGS (Universal Gcode Sender) is the computer controller. Loads the gcode file, let's you run a simulation, and send the gcode to the controller board.


----------



## Brent H (Jan 30, 2021)

I know you are building the CNC machine but you are building the actual plasma cutter as well?  In your other post you said it arrived and it was wrong so you sent it back?


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 30, 2021)

Brent H said:


> I know you are building the CNC machine but you are building the actual plasma cutter as well?  In your other post you said it arrived and it was wrong so you sent it back?


Whoops sorry... I totally misinterpreted that 
I bought a Sungoldpower 50A pilot arc, blowback start cutter.
https://sungoldpower.com/collections/plasma-cutter/products/pilot-arc-plasma-cutter-cut50


----------



## Brent H (Jan 30, 2021)

LOL - no worries - it is very early still on the west coast


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 30, 2021)

Brent H said:


> LOL - no worries - it is very early still on the west coast


Indeed, I haven't finished my tea!


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 4, 2021)

Got a bunch of parts in today!
Steppers, power supply, v-bearings, v-rail.


----------



## Brent H (Feb 4, 2021)

oh My!  Go David Go!!


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 4, 2021)

I will assemble the magic pixie stuff first (props if you know who I'm quoting) to make sure I can control the thing before I attach the fire-making, metal-melting bits!


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 5, 2021)

And the plasma cutter has arrived!
Now all I need are some steel parts. Looks like about a week or so away from those


----------



## Chicken lights (Feb 5, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> And the plasma cutter has arrived!
> Now all I need are some steel parts. Looks like about a week or so away from those


If only you had a CNC plasma cutter table you wouldn’t have to wait on waterjet cut parts.....


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 5, 2021)

Chicken lights said:


> If only you had a CNC plasma cutter table you wouldn’t have to wait on waterjet cut parts.....


I know right? The irony is definitely not lost on me.


----------



## molyknow (Feb 6, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> I know right? The irony is definitely not lost on me.


I’m very excited to see how this turns out! May end up building my own!


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 6, 2021)

molyknow said:


> I’m very excited to see how this turns out! May end up building my own!



Cool! 
I’ll try to document the build as best I can. I have started trial assembly of the electronics to make sure everything works as expected. 
I’ve been practicing Fusion360 as much as I can.


----------



## Chicken lights (Feb 14, 2021)

https://torchmate.com/torchmate-451...MIrNjrqNPp7gIVg9vACh3BiAJpEAEYASAAEgLPjvD_BwE

If I did that right that’s a link to Lincoln’s CNC table. No idea why that ad popped up when I was checking the weather but anyway 

Any idea of how that compares to what you’re building? Probably quite a bit more money but it just says ask for a quote. Says it can handle a full 5x10 sheet and cut up to 1” thick


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 14, 2021)

Chicken lights said:


> https://torchmate.com/torchmate-451...MIrNjrqNPp7gIVg9vACh3BiAJpEAEYASAAEgLPjvD_BwE
> 
> If I did that right that’s a link to Lincoln’s CNC table. No idea why that ad popped up when I was checking the weather but anyway
> 
> Any idea of how that compares to what you’re building? Probably quite a bit more money but it just says ask for a quote. Says it can handle a full 5x10 sheet and cut up to 1” thick


Oh mine is quite a bit smaller, basically a 2 ft sq cutting area. I simply do not have room for anything bigger.


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 18, 2021)

Big news on the build!
After a two week wait, the steel is ready!
Pick it up tomorrow I think. 
In the meantime I printed a mount for the Arduino Uno board.


----------



## kevin.decelles (Feb 18, 2021)

Wondering how you got by without the printer yet?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 18, 2021)

kevin.decelles said:


> Wondering how you got by without the printer yet?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Like seriously!!! 
As soon as my partner figured out what it was she was pitching out ideas!


----------



## Brent H (Feb 18, 2021)

Can you print stuff in ABS?


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 18, 2021)

Brent H said:


> Can you print stuff in ABS?


I can yes, don't have any ABS filament though.


----------



## Brent H (Feb 18, 2021)

I want to add a second battery to the big new truck. (Factory dropped it on the spec) they want like $190 for the base and $15 for the cover.  Have to see what Is all included.  
Glad you are feeling better David


----------



## YYCHM (Feb 18, 2021)

Brent H said:


> I want to add a second battery to the big new truck.



Big New Truck???  What did you get?


----------



## Brent H (Feb 18, 2021)

Chevy 2500HD LT long box - replaced same truck (2011).    Ordered it 4 months ago.  Checked Ford and Dodge and nothing to match - was crazy.  And still is - Chevy no longer taking build orders - shop in Mexico can’t keep up up with the wire harnesses - odd times 

They dropped the extra battery and added remote tailgate and some other trim options 





Ugly to some folks but the work part is good for me!


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 18, 2021)

Brent H said:


> Chevy 2500HD LT long box - replaced same truck (2011).    Ordered it 4 months ago.  Checked Ford and Dodge and nothing to match - was crazy.  And still is - Chevy no longer taking build orders - shop in Mexico can’t keep up up with the wire harnesses - odd times
> 
> They dropped the extra battery and added remote tailgate and some other trim options
> 
> ...


Nice wheels sir!
Can you retrofit a second battery?


----------



## Brent H (Feb 18, 2021)

@David_R8 - Looking into it - gmupfitters.com has some mistakes in their electrical drawings (LOL) but this is your CNC forum so that is it - LOL


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 19, 2021)

Picked up the steel today. 
Slight hiccup in that I didn’t communicate the cut list clearly so they only made a single of a piece that I need a pair of. 
I’ll need to make a duplicate of the piece by the yellow handle. 
The two diamond shaped pieces are the stepper mounts, the big square’ish pieces are the X and Y axis mounts. 
Not shown are the two 24”x 2.5” arms.


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 20, 2021)

Breakout board for the Arduino Uno board showed up today. 
With any luck I can get the electronics wired up and see if they work [emoji16]






Oh and I printed a mount for the board on my new 3D printer [emoji16]


----------



## Chicken lights (Feb 20, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Breakout board for the Arduino Uno board showed up today.
> With any luck I can get the electronics wired up and see if they work [emoji16]
> 
> 
> ...


Smexy!


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 20, 2021)

Chicken lights said:


> Smexy!


Oh yeah!
I'll figure this thing out 
I already have my next project in the sights...


----------



## Janger (Feb 20, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Picked up the steel today.
> Slight hiccup in that I didn’t communicate the cut list clearly so they only made a single of a piece that I need a pair of.
> I’ll need to make a duplicate of the piece by the yellow handle.
> The two diamond shaped pieces are the stepper mounts, the big square’ish pieces are the X and Y axis mounts.
> Not shown are the two 24”x 2.5” arms.


Final price David?


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 20, 2021)

Whoops I said I was going to post that didn't I @Janger 
Steel and cutting was $100 plus tax, $112 all in.
There's two 24" x 2.5" pieces of 3/16" as well that aren't shown because well they don't fit in the picture.


----------



## YYCHM (Feb 20, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> I already have my next project in the sights...



Next?  How many concurrent projects do you have going now?


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 20, 2021)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Next? How many concurrent projects do you have going now?



Two for sure; the plasma cutter and the power feed. 
I’d have the power feed done already if I hadn’t been in the hospital. 
The plasma cutter has been an exercise in waiting for parts. 

I want to build a CNC router next. Check out the PrintNC machine.


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 20, 2021)

Well I had partial success tonight. Got the X-axis working but the Y-axis is not responding. 
Not quite sure what's wrong yet...


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 20, 2021)

Got it working!
Still need to set the steps correctly but the steppers are responding appropriately  
HUGE win for this CNC electronics (heck all electronics!) newbie!


----------



## Tom O (Feb 20, 2021)

Way to go! I hear you about the electronics I’m just starting to get back into the Arduino I’ve had sitting around here for a good two years.


----------



## David_R8 (Feb 28, 2021)

Small progress today. 
Designed and printed a base for the 5v relay that will control the plasma torch.


----------



## ShawnR (Feb 28, 2021)

You are stirring my interest in a 3d printer....

Thanks for posting this thread. Very informative!


----------



## Janger (Mar 1, 2021)

Are you doing anything about automatic height control?


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 1, 2021)

Janger said:


> Are you doing anything about automatic height control?



Not at this point. 
It maybe something that I need to add in which case I’ll have to go to a more traditional design.


----------



## YYCHM (Mar 19, 2021)

Where is this project at David?


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 19, 2021)

I am progressing slowly. I need to lay out the various holes etc and start drilling and tapping.
I did get all of the electronics wired up and get them working which was a huge step.


----------



## Tom O (Mar 19, 2021)

Looking at the design I think I would drill holes in the feet to keep it steady during use to compensate for cable weight/ extension they could also be used by bolting it on a removable water tray During indoor use.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 19, 2021)

Tom O said:


> Looking at the design I think I would drill holes in the feet to keep it steady during use to compensate for cable weight/ extension they could also be used by bolting it on a removable water tray During indoor use.


Yup, that's in the works.
The designer did "what would I do differently" video and commented that he would have made or included feet.
In the .dxf file included with the plans, the round bits ate the bottom are the feet. They get a 90 deg bend so the rest flat on the table.


----------



## Tom O (Mar 19, 2021)

Ok I didn’t see that one, I did get the plans from him to pick through and am looking to see what can be improved like 1/2“ for the legs and a t slot for the adjustments of the v rollers.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 19, 2021)

There is this adjustment for the v-rollers.
Edit: @Tom O If you decide to build it the BoM lists pinion gears that don't have set screws. 
I didn't notice when I ordered from McMaster. Pinions with set screws are about three times the price so I'm just going to drill and tap the ones that I bought.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 21, 2021)

Made some progress today. 
Did the rough assembly of the X and Y carriages. 
I may have to make some changes because the mounting flange on the V-rail I have is wider than the spec’ed V-rail from McMaster-Carr which pushes the gear rack too far inboard. 

Or I might just order the spec’ed V-rail 



















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tom O (Mar 21, 2021)

Looking good so far.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 21, 2021)

Tom O said:


> Looking good so far.



Thanks Tom, came together pretty easily. 
The water jet cut holes are all slightly undersized which I happy about, much better than oversized!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 23, 2021)

I decided to order the correct gear rack from McMaster.
I am seriously amazed by their service. 
Label created at 9:49pm Mar 22
On vehicle for delivery 8:16am Mar 23


----------



## Brent H (Mar 23, 2021)

@David_R8 - they seriously have their delivery stuff down pat, a huge lesson for any Canadian company that wants to go on line  - not sure how they do it, but they are fast - I have an order built up that they say can be delivered to a pretty remote place by tomorrow afternoon if I order now....crazy!

Nice work on the build so far


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 23, 2021)

Thanks @Brent H, I appreciate that!
I'm really trying to up my level of precision and accuracy.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 23, 2021)

I mocked up the rails tonight because well I'm like a kid on Christmas Eve. 
I realized that I couldn't use the other rails because they are about a 1/16" thick so the end of the motor shaft and pinion gear would have been rubbing on the plate holding the rails. The new rails are 1/4" thick which is necessary for there to be sufficient clearance.


----------



## ShawnR (Mar 24, 2021)

[QUOTE="David_R8, post: 36323, member: 1518"
Biggest criteria is size; it had to be small enough to fit on my 2x3 welding table or be portable enough to store out of the way.
Discovered Dacs Garage and his design.

Watched all the videos several times and decided to spend $10 for the plans which include .dxf file so the pieces can be waterjet cut if so desired.
The electronics are an Arduino Duo controller running GRBL and Universal G-Code uploader.
I run a Macbook so no Mach 3 or 4 as they require a PC. I may do that in the future but i need to get my feet wet first.
Parts are on order so follow along as I venture into a completely unknown land. [/QUOTE]

I am jumping in!! I ordered the plans and a plasma cutter today.  (Been on the list for a while but resistant to learning software. Seems like the incentive (named David) finally came along)

David, I need you to quit posting projects. They are all so interesting that they keep costing me money!  

Kidding, of course. Great posts! Keep them coming!!
And Thanks

Cheers,


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 24, 2021)

Happy to have inspired you @ShawnR. Be sure to post pics as you go. What plasma cutter did you order?
Are you going to order parts from McMaster?
It was more expensive but  it saved me untold hours or searching for individual item and paying for shipping.


----------



## ShawnR (Mar 24, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Happy to have inspired you @ShawnR. Be sure to post pics as you go. What plasma cutter did you order?
> Are you going to order parts from McMaster?
> It was more expensive but  it saved me untold hours or searching for individual item and paying for shipping.



I purchased this one. Not a lot of reviews on it but it is in Canada. I looked on ebay too. They all seem about the same.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08BZH991R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know about ordering anything yet. I will see what the plans call for and see what I have in stock. I am trying to finish the belt sander, then doing a router duplicator for gun stocsk, then this CNC cutter.... . I need to quit adding to the list now!

Like a chess player, planning my moves ahead... and like chess, sometimes someone else throws a twist into my plans, but those are the planned projects right now. I figure I can swap out my trim router for the torch and use it as a CNC router table for wood too. Opens up a few more options in my shop. I started watching the videos on Dac's website and it all started making sense to me. I do not know anything about any of the software for drawing so figured you would need to be competent in a CAD/CAM program but looks like I will be able to figure out enough. to make it usable. 

I have a  bit of a programming background and have used microcontrollers before. I did buy the Arduino to compare to the ones I have used since the Arduino is so well supported. The uController I used never caught on so is not supported anymore but the programming is similar. Gcode looks straight forward from what I saw on Dac's Garage. 

Looks like a very rewarding project!


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 24, 2021)

Looks like a decent machine. I had to search around for one that wasn't HF start. Finally found the Sungoldpower unit. 

I'm a CAD/CAM newbie also. I bought a 3D printer a while back so I'm learning Fusion 360 as the basis for the CAD and CAM.
Using Universal GCode sender and it seems to work fine. I managed to get the steppers to move as expected on the kitchen table. The big test is obviously getting them to work on the machine!


----------



## ShawnR (Mar 24, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Looks like a decent machine. I had to search around for one that wasn't HF start. Finally found the Sungoldpower unit.
> 
> I'm a CAD/CAM newbie also. I bought a 3D printer a while back so I'm learning Fusion 360 as the basis for the CAD and CAM.
> Using Universal GCode sender and it seems to work fine. I managed to get the steppers to move as expected on the kitchen table. The big test is obviously getting them to work on the machine!



Wait, what? What do you mean you did not want HF start? Why? How will your machine start the cuts? Sorry if it is in this thread. I did not read all posts but will go look. Are you coding in a dip of the torch to start the arc?        OK, I went to the FAQ's on the site you posted. Will I have trouble with the High Frequency of the unit I bought? 

I started looking at Fusion a couple months back because of a thread here. But then my first lesson with Lars went south when he kept referring to a word that was not in my version. After a half hour, a google search revealed that the word was changed. I was already frustrated. I am now trying to learn Free Cad but I am thinking my brain refuses to learn CAD. We will see. I think 2 dimension will be a good start. I can manage that, maybe, I hope...


----------



## ShawnR (Mar 24, 2021)

@David_R8 I cancelled my Plasma order (if I made it in time)  till I hear more about the HF concerns. I remember working on a TIG unit and the HF start for the AC function messed up the TIG controller. It worked well on DC. Maybe this is along the same lines?


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 24, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> Wait, what? What do you mean you did not want HF start? Why? How will your machine start the cuts? Sorry if it is in this thread. I did not read all posts but will go look. Are you coding in a dip of the torch to start the arc?
> 
> I started looking at Fusion a couple months back because of a thread here. But then my first lesson with Lars went south when he kept referring to a word that was not in my version. After a half hour, a google search revealed that the word was changed. I was already frustrated. I am now trying to learn Free Cad but I am thinking my brain refuses to learn CAD. We will see. I think 2 dimension will be a good start. I can manage that, maybe, I hope...


My cutter uses something called 'blowback' to start the arc.
Dr D-Flo has a useful page on plasma cutters which is how I found the Sungoldpower unit
https://www.drdflo.com/pages/Guides/Plasma-Cutters-For-CNC.html

My understanding is that HF causes electrical interference with the controllers and such.


----------



## Johnwa (Mar 24, 2021)

[QUOTE="

I started looking at Fusion a couple months back because of a thread here. But then my first lesson with Lars went south when he kept referring to a word that was not in my version. After a half hour, a google search revealed that the word was changed. I was already frustrated. I am now trying to learn Free Cad but I am thinking my brain refuses to learn CAD. We will see. I think 2 dimension will be a good start. I can manage that, maybe, I hope...[/QUOTE]

Thats one of the problem with Lar‘s videos. The Fusion menu system has changed quite a bit from his first videos.  It may be the same with free cad.


----------



## ShawnR (Mar 24, 2021)

Johnwa said:


> [QUOTE="
> 
> Thats one of the problem with Lar‘s videos. The Fusion menu system has changed quite a bit from his first videos.  It may be the same with free cad.



That is good to know. Thanks John.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 24, 2021)

I struggled with Lars' videos as well. I need to get to real basics and found a site called Desktop Makes. It's focused on designing for 3D printing but it gave me a pretty good grounding in some basics. 
Vlad does a good job in his intro series. It was enough to get me going.


----------



## ShawnR (Mar 24, 2021)

Thanks @David_R8 . I will take another look.

As for the plasma unit, did you order from the states? I can only find hi freq units in canada or on Amazon. I should clarify, the unit you bought is available on amazon.ca for 1300ish dollars..(400% markup?) . Did you buy from Sungold? I have emailed Sungold power to see if they have a Can distributor.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 24, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> Thanks @David_R8 . I will take another look.
> 
> As for the plasma unit, did you order from the states? I can only find hi freq units in canada or on Amazon. I should clarify, the unit you bought is available on amazon.ca for 1300ish dollars..(400% markup?) . Did you buy from Sungold? I have emailed Sungold power to see if they have a Can distributor.


I bought from Sungoldpower directly.
It's been my experience that once exchange and duty are taken into consideration there isn't a lot of price difference between the US and Canada on most items.
Amazon is well... Amazon. No way would I pay that much.


----------



## ShawnR (Mar 25, 2021)

@David_R8 I can't find any options in Canada that I like so will most likely order the same Plasma unit as you. Have you used it yet as a general plasma cutter? Do you like it? A lot of machines are labelled as CNC friendly or compatible but often still seem to use Hi frequency. The Sungoldpower is the only one I find that seems to have the lo frequency


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 25, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> @David_R8 I can't find any options in Canada that I like so will most likely order the same Plasma unit as you. Have you used it yet as a general plasma cutter? Do you like it? A lot of machines are labelled as CNC friendly or compatible but often still seem to use Hi frequency. The Sungoldpower is the only one I find that seems to have the lo frequency


I have used it and it seems to work just fine. Have only cut up to 1/4 but it cut that like butter.
I need to get an air drier in my compressor setup though as I understand that consumables last longer with clean dry air.


----------



## ShawnR (Mar 25, 2021)

I have emailed them a couple of times. Waiting to hear back. Seems a bit of a lag. Holiday in the USA?


----------



## Tom O (Mar 25, 2021)

I was looking through some old bookmarks and found this it’s a wire edm machine he made and apparently has the plans but the rail system would work great for this application.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 25, 2021)

Tom O said:


> I was looking through some old bookmarks and found this it’s a wire edm machine he made and apparently has the plans but the rail system would work great for this application.
> 
> View attachment 13874



Do you have the link Tom?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tom O (Mar 26, 2021)

This is it here.
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/general-edm-discussion/368696-cad.html


----------



## ShawnR (Mar 26, 2021)

Tom O said:


> This is it here.
> https://www.cnczone.com/forums/general-edm-discussion/368696-cad.html



Wow...nice


----------



## ShawnR (Mar 26, 2021)

Sungold was out of stock on the 50L but had a 60L so it is ordered. I have plasma cutting jobs lined up anyways so even if I do not go all the way into CNC, no loss. Their website is a little confusing. All descriptions say high frequency but in the short description beside the machine, it says low frequency on only the L series. Makes sense, I guess......I hope....


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 26, 2021)

More progress today.
Built the rails.
Lots of drilling, countersinking and tapping. Ten fasteners in each rail.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 26, 2021)

Lots of learning today too.
On the bottom rail I miscalculated the width of the flat part of the v-rail and drilled the holes in the flat stock too far inboard which meant the holes were to close to edge of the v-rail. All ten of the holes... 
And I thought I could accurately transfer the hole locations from the  flat stock to the v-rails. Not so much...Doh!
For the second rail I carefully measured the width of the v-rail in decimal inches, divided that figure in half and then scribed marks for the hole locations. I also clamped the flat stock and v-rail together to drill the holes.


----------



## Tom O (Mar 26, 2021)

Looking good what is the weight of the top sliding arm? I’m just wondering what the weight would be fully extended.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 26, 2021)

It's probably a pound or so?


----------



## Tom O (Mar 26, 2021)

Well that’s not much I was expecting a few pounds at least. How does the rigidity look any noticeable flex?


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 26, 2021)

If I bear down it will flex but there’s very little weight on it in use. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tom O (Mar 26, 2021)

That’s nice to hear it was the biggest concern that I had about this type of mode.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 26, 2021)

More progress. 
Legs on and laying out the gear rack. 













Stepper motor mounted. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tom O (Mar 27, 2021)

That’s coming along nicely, so is there anything you have noticed that you would change in the design so far?


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 27, 2021)

Tom O said:


> That’s coming along nicely, so is there anything you have noticed that you would change in the design so far?



There’s one thing that I might change. 
The tabs that are bent over are for some 1/4-20 cap screws which are supposed to apply pressure to the nuts which secure the v-wheels to ensure the v- wheels are snug the the v-rail. 
The holes in the tabs are too far outboard to bear on the nuts this so either I bent the tabs in the wrong spot (unlikely as the plans are clear) or the holes are in the wrong place. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tom O (Mar 28, 2021)

I was wondering about that, I think I’d see how it works first then maybe redesign the ends in 1/2” material that would fix that. There is no heat involved or near the ends so aluminum should work.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 29, 2021)

I wonder if some experts could weigh in here.
Here's a close-up of the part of the CNC build.
The hole in the tab is supposed to line up over the end of the nut that secures the V-wheel.
I tried as best I could to bend it at the bend line but the hole ended  up too far outboard to bear on the nut.

I don't have a bender  so I used my 6" vise. I placed the tab in the vise so I could use the larger area for leverage.
I can see that the vertical part arcs over too far.  

How could I have bent it so that it was in the correct place?


----------



## Johnwa (Mar 29, 2021)

Lots of heat would allow for a sharper bend.  Alternatively a weld on tab.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 29, 2021)

Johnwa said:


> Lots of heat would allow for a sharper bend.  Alternatively a weld on tab.


Thanks John, it was a cold bend, I do have oxy-acetylene so I may go back and see if I can make it a sharper bend.


----------



## Brent H (Mar 29, 2021)

@David_R8  as @Johnwa said I have had good luck with clamping in the vise and heating to a good orange temp and then using a suitable size beater to force the steel to the 90 that I required.  You may have success with making some jaws for your vise that have a perfect 90 to get the steel as perfect as possible.    Alternatively getting things jigged up and tig welding on the tab may have been a better option.


----------



## RobinHood (Mar 29, 2021)

You could also use a 90* chamfer mill on the inside of the bend (while the piece is still flat) and machine a V groove almost through the material. Then bend it. Weld it back together on the inside. The bend will be in the exact location you want it. The V can also be cut using an angle grinder with a cut-off disc. This method is more accurate than O-A heating and bending.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 29, 2021)

Brent H said:


> @David_R8  as @Johnwa said I have had good luck with clamping in the vise and heating to a good orange temp and then using a suitable size beater to force the steel to the 90 that I required.  You may have success with making some jaws for your vise that have a perfect 90 to get the steel as perfect as possible.    Alternatively getting things jigged up and tig welding on the tab may have been a better option.


I'll see if I can get the vertical bit more vertical with with use of fire. I may end up cutting it off and making a new tab.
@RobinHood thanks for that suggestion. I was wondering if scoring it might help.


----------



## kevin.decelles (Mar 29, 2021)

+1 RobinHood.    Or, start with two pieces and tig-weld strategically.


----------



## Tom O (Mar 29, 2021)

I was thinking the tabs could be cut off and replaced with a 1/2” x 3/4” piece to span the length as a replacement.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 29, 2021)

Tom O said:


> I was thinking the tabs could be cut off and replaced with a 1/2” x 3/4” piece to span the length as a replacement.


That's definitely doable!


----------



## ShawnR (Mar 30, 2021)

@David_R8 Thanks for working out the details....  By the time I get to this, you should have a complete build manual in this thread! 

Since I decided to follow you down this trail, I finally forced myself to put some time into FreeCAD. I can now punch holes in flat material! I figure no use building the CNC plasma cutter if I cannot control it....or rather,draw a picture of a piece of materials with holes in it....


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 30, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> @David_R8 Thanks for working out the details.... By the time I get to this, you should have a complete build manual in this thread!
> 
> Since I decided to follow you down this trail, I finally forced myself to put some time into FreeCAD. I can now punch holes in flat material! I figure no use building the CNC plasma cutter if I cannot control it....or rather,draw a picture of a piece of materials with holes in it....



Good work!
I looked at FreeCAD but I’d already invested a bunch of time into Fusion 360.
I’m exploring new machine control software from OpenBuilds.
https://software.openbuilds.com/

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## historicalarms (Mar 30, 2021)

another method for accurate bends, should you have a hyd press available. I have used mine (20 T) several times to bend light or heavy (up to 1/2" thick) metal very accurately with judicious placement of sharp edged flat iron to use as bend starters. It seems that if the bend is started in the right place, continuation to finish is easy.


----------



## David_R8 (Mar 30, 2021)

historicalarms said:


> another method for accurate bends, should you have a hyd press available. I have used mine (20 T) several times to bend light or heavy (up to 1/2" thick) metal very accurately with judicious placement of sharp edged flat iron to use as bend starters. It seems that if the bend is started in the right place, continuation to finish is easy.



I have a six-ton bench top press but no dies. Though that’s easy to rectify. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 2, 2021)

Got to spend most of the afternoon in the shop working on the plasma cutter 
Though I'm not sure that will be apparent from the photos.
Last update I was laying out the gear rack.
Today I drilled and tapped it, counter sunk the holes for the flat head mounting screws.




I had been fretting over how to maintain the .269" spacing from the V-rail. I measured the height of the gear rack at .25" so I decided to use the cut off pieces as spacers. The stepper motor mounts have provisions to adjust the gear mesh so the .019" difference will be made up that way.
The rack is pretty narrow on its face and I was drill and tapping for 6-32 screws. I could only place holes under the gear peaks other wise there wasn't enough material. Needless to say I had my magnifiers on for this.




This is the back of the Y-axis. The top and bottom screws are securing the v-rail. the single screw is for the gear rack.




The bill of materials spec'ed pinion gears without set screws so I had to drill and tap the pinion gears for 10-24 set screws. These gears were $16. With set screws they are a whopping $42. Each. 




Did a trial fit to make sure everything was copacetic.




Looking down into the Y-axis at the pinion and rack. Definitely a tight fit!




Next steps are to finish the motor mounts; add a roll pin to each for a tensioning spring, build the torch mount (that's a design in progress!) and do the wiring. 
It's coming along pretty alright so far. The hairiest part was the gear racks and that's done


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 5, 2021)

Spent a bunch of time cleaning up the shop to day but did manage a bit of progress on the build.
As @extropic on the Hobby-machinist forum sagely noticed, having the Y-axis gear rack oriented teeth facing up was inviting a build up of crud in the gears.

So I flipped the axis end for end and added a tensioning spring to maintain good gear mesh.
Though looking at the photo I should probably flip the motor mount so the slot faces down.
I also milled .05” off the motor shafts as they were too long and rubbed on the axis plates.











I liked how the tension spring took away the gear lash so I added one to the X-axis too.






@ShawnR when you build one (see what I did there?  ) the holes in the motor mount plates may be too small to accommodate the motors which have a small boss on the mounting face.
I solved this by using my Noga deburring tool to create a small chamfer. A few turns around the opening and the motor fit like a glove.


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 6, 2021)

Looks great @David_R8 . Thank you for posting these tips and experiences. I ordered the electronics yesterday. Plasma cutter should be here this week. 
Lastnight, I emailed the dxf files to a local shop to price out laser cutting. I don't think we have a water cutting option in the area. But, honestly, I don't know the results of the different cut methods. Why would you not cut the pieces yourself with the plasma cutter? Time? or warpage or edge finish? Before I really start on this, I plan on having the belt sander done so will have a new piece of equipment or two I am just itching to use so am wondering if I might just cut the frame pieces myself.  And I need practice at everything, ie, cutting, layout, ...!

I went back to see the photo of your motor, wondering if we got the same one. I then discovered openbuilds.com, and then maker.ca...I did not realize there was so much support for these kind of projects. Very cool...! 

Cheers


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 6, 2021)

I got pricing back today on the parts laser cut. $195 plus taxes. Hot rolled 10 gauge steel. 0.135"


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 6, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> Looks great @David_R8 . Thank you for posting these tips and experiences. I ordered the electronics yesterday. Plasma cutter should be here this week.
> Lastnight, I emailed the dxf files to a local shop to price out laser cutting. I don't think we have a water cutting option in the area. But, honestly, I don't know the results of the different cut methods. Why would you not cut the pieces yourself with the plasma cutter? Time? or warpage or edge finish? Before I really start on this, I plan on having the belt sander done so will have a new piece of equipment or two I am just itching to use so am wondering if I might just cut the frame pieces myself.  And I need practice at everything, ie, cutting, layout, ...!
> 
> I went back to see the photo of your motor, wondering if we got the same one. I then discovered openbuilds.com, and then maker.ca...I did not realize there was so much support for these kind of projects. Very cool...!
> ...


I think it would be very difficult to cut these by hand if you want them to have the same level of precision. I do think it would be possible to make reasonable facsimiles with the same dimensions but it would take me forever if I had to do it.

Make sure that you tell the laser cutting company to cut two end pieces (the angular one) and two motor mounts. There's only one of each in the .dxf file. Also note that not all of the pieces are the same thickness. Most are 1/8" but the two long axis pieces and the torch holder are 3/16". Plus you need maybe 6-8" of angle iron.


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 6, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Whoops I said I was going to post that didn't I @Janger
> Steel and cutting was $100 plus tax, $112 all in.
> There's two 24" x 2.5" pieces of 3/16" as well that aren't shown because well they don't fit in the picture.



Where did you get the metal cut @David_R8 ? I just priced cold rolled sheet at Metal Supermarket and it is over $100 for 4 square feet of 11 gauge, not even .125". That is more than is required but would allow me to make mistakes, if I was to tackle it.  The local place was using hot rolled and so I did some reading. Sounds like cold rolled is a better material for this so it might actually be worth it for me to order from where you ordered the parts. 

ohoh...getting sucked in....need to work on other projects first....


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 6, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> Where did you get the metal cut @David_R8 ? I just priced cold rolled sheet at Metal Supermarket and it is over $100 for 4 square feet of 11 gauge, not even .125". That is more than is required but would allow me to make mistakes, if I was to tackle it.  The local place was using hot rolled and so I did some reading. Sounds like cold rolled is a better material for this so it might actually be worth it for me to order from where you ordered the parts.
> 
> ohoh...getting sucked in....need to work on other projects first....


I didn't buy any metal per se as they waterjet company provided it. I thought $100 was more than fair given that they had some work to do in the .dxf file.
Hot rolled would be fine too. The parts are small enough to easily  do a vinegar bath  to remove the mill scale.


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 6, 2021)

Who is the waterjet company?


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 6, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> Who is the waterjet company?



Victoria Waterjet. 
Where are you located?


----------



## Tom O (Apr 6, 2021)

I am thinking about using 1/2 aluminum for the end plates the v groove bearings could be placed in a shouldered t slot to keep it square and for up/down adjustment it can be archived by a setscrew in the top.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 6, 2021)

That’s a great idea Tom. 
I wonder if there would be a measurable weight difference.


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 6, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Victoria Waterjet.
> Where are you located?



Northwestern Ontario. Nothing local but I could look into places in Winnipeg or Toronto...or just go with the local guy. I thought that the CRS is worth looking into a place that uses it or I am looking at buying it, then maybe taking it to the local guy to laser it...getting complicated. I figured find one place that can supply and cut.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 6, 2021)

Were it me I'd go the low-hassle route. I bet if I had bought the material and took it to be cut it would have been more.
I had the same company cut the top for my welding table. If I recall correctly a 2' x 3' x 3/8" piece of plate was $190.


----------



## Tom O (Apr 6, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> That’s a great idea Tom.
> I wonder if there would be a measurable weight difference.



Weight shouldn’t be a problem that would affect anything with it being the base support and feet can be attached with bolts.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 6, 2021)

Tom O said:


> Weight shouldn’t be a problem that would affect anything with it being the base support and feet can be attached with bolts.


Whoops, I think I misunderstood. I thought you meant using aluminum for the uprights that hold the Y-axis.


----------



## Tom O (Apr 6, 2021)

I haven’t looked at those yet lol but I did go back to look at your adjustment/bend problem could you not use a threaded rod or hex to extend the bolt for adjustment.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 6, 2021)

Yup, that would definitely work. 
I’ll have a look at modifying what I have.


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 8, 2021)

@David_R8 I see in the plans that if you wanted to make it bigger, it is suggested to just order longer rail components. I was wondering though about doing a larger sheet in parts. Will you be able to index it somehow and then use 4 drawings/files or 2 or whatever it takes? So for this 2 foot unit (cutting area 16"?) could you do a 4'x4' panel? How do you set home position? I assume the machine just goes out x and y from what it considers home so you position the unit over your home or what you consider 0:0 to start?  

How are you going to hold it in place? I was wondering if dragging the cable around would move it? clamps? Welding magnets?


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 8, 2021)

I found this and it gives some general cnc plasma info


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 9, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> @David_R8 I see in the plans that if you wanted to make it bigger, it is suggested to just order longer rail components. I was wondering though about doing a larger sheet in parts. Will you be able to index it somehow and then use 4 drawings/files or 2 or whatever it takes? So for this 2 foot unit (cutting area 16"?) could you do a 4'x4' panel? How do you set home position? I assume the machine just goes out x and y from what it considers home so you position the unit over your home or what you consider 0:0 to start?
> 
> How are you going to hold it in place? I was wondering if dragging the cable around would move it? clamps? Welding magnets?



I expect to just clamp it to my welding table.

I have yet to have this thing under power so take this with a box of salt.
In theory you could put the unit anywhere on a big sheet and start cutting.
I've only laid out single parts in Fusion360. When I do, I specify the size of the stock. For example, lets say I have a 4" x 4" bracket. When I do the CAM programming I have to locate the  0, 0 postion and enter the stock dimensions. I would say .125" thick and add .25" to the edges.
I expect I could cut that out, move the machine to a new spot where the 0,0 position would work, and fire it up again.

I know that in dedicated plasma cutting software such as SheetCAM there is the ability to nest parts together. I haven't investigated that because I run a Mac and SheetCAM is PC only.


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 9, 2021)

ok, thanks


----------



## SimonM (Apr 9, 2021)

@David_R8 
You might be able to run a virtual machine on your Mac to run pc software. I’m sure somebody here’s got the know how but it ain’t me.


----------



## YotaBota (Apr 9, 2021)

There is(was) a program called WinE (Windows Emulator) that we used a bunch of years ago. Some Windows programs would work and some wouldn't so it was a matter of trial and error.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 9, 2021)

SimonM said:


> @David_R8
> You might be able to run a virtual machine on your Mac to run pc software. I’m sure somebody here’s got the know how but it ain’t me.


Yeah, I've thought about this. I only recently found an open source windows emulator called VirtualBox. Haven't tried it yet, but I'm interested in giving it a go.
I'll need to find a copy of Windows too.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 10, 2021)

Bit more progress today. 
Made the bracket that mounts the torch holder bracket. 
Made a start on the actual ring to hold the torch. 
Had an aluminum piece with a hole almost the same dimension as the torch head. Bored it out on the lathe and parted it off at the right length. 
Now I just need to figure out how to attach the ring to the bracket.

















I might TIG a rectangular piece to the side of the ring, drill and tap it for a cap screw through the upright bracket.


----------



## Tom O (Apr 10, 2021)

The commercials say that “ Gorilla Tape “ works wonders!


----------



## YYCHM (Apr 10, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Bit more progress today.
> Made the bracket that mounts the torch holder bracket.
> Made a start on the actual ring to hold the torch.
> Had an aluminum piece with a hole almost the same dimension as the torch head. Bored it out on the lathe and parted it off at the right length.
> Now I just need to figure out how to attach it to the bracket.



LOL..... a bracket for a bracket, an actual ring, and a piece with a hole in it?  Sorry couldn't help it


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 10, 2021)

What I have liked for attaching circular objects to flat surfaces is to drill a larger hole in the outer portion of the ring and the right size hole in the side of the ring that mounts to the bracket. You can then use the screw drive through the outer ring larger hole? ...or weld it as you say....


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 10, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> What I have liked for attaching circular objects to flat surfaces is to drill a larger hole in the outer portion of the ring and the right size hole in the side of the ring that mounts to the bracket. You can then use the screw drive through the outer ring larger hole? ...or weld it as you say....



I like this idea too. 
I have a roll pin I could use to stop the ring from rotating about the screw.


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 10, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> I like this idea too.
> I have a roll pin I could use to stop the ring from rotating about the screw.



Or two screws? top and bottom? Don't know what stresses will be on it as it drags the cable around but you could put a strain relief on the arm. I plan on suspending the cable above the table. I saw that DAC had his dragging over the edge but anyone that tig welds knows the cable dragging over something messes up the welds sometimes...or is that just me...?   That dragging stress will wiggle the fasteners loose eventually. Welding might be the best solution for long term reliability. Just my 2 cents


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 11, 2021)

Today’s progress. 
Took a couple of iterations to get here. 
Milled a flat on the torch collar so it would stay in one place while I messed around with locating it. 












See the hole peeking out from behind the torch? That’s a 1/4-20 hole that I made to mount an aluminum plate which had the collar attached. 
Turned out the screw heads interfered with the torch body so that version was scrapped. 
Second iteration ended up by drilling the steel plate and directly attaching the collar. Should have started with that in the first place. 

I have also been thinking ahead to how to hold the thing down to the table and made a happy discovery. 
The X-axis is exactly 24” wide, the same as my welding table. 
So it fits perfectly across the width. 
I think I’ll swap out end plates for a couple of pieces of square tube. I’ll cut out one side and mount the with the open side facing out so I can clamp it down.


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 12, 2021)

@David_R8 have you seen this video? Check out the torch holder fixture. Shows up earlier but I noted about 00:39.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 12, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> @David_R8 have you seen this video? Check out the torch holder fixture. Shows up earlier but I noted about 00:39.


Yup... that's my next iteration in a nutshell!


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 17, 2021)

A bit of work last night to make a better torch holder. 
2x2 block, bored to 1” in the 4-jaw. I plan to cut it vertically, parallel to plate so it can clamp the torch head. 
Also need to mark and drill to attach it to the vertical plate and mill recesses for 10-24 SHCS to hold the two halves together. 
I might also break out the rotary table and radius the front [emoji1]
Ignore those two holes. They are from a prior attempt to make a mount. [emoji23]


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 18, 2021)

Torch holder is done. 
















Had a rethink on how to attach it to the table. 
Some 1x tube with openings cut for a C clamp.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 19, 2021)

Hang on to your hats!
Lock up your children!
The plasma cutter is ALIVE!


----------



## YYCHM (Apr 19, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Hang on to your hats!
> Lock up your children!
> The plasma cutter is ALIVE!



I don't see any smoking holes in metal


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 19, 2021)

YYCHM said:


> I don't see any smoking holes in metal


Well, alive in the sense that I made a CAD drawing, converted it to G-code, sent it to the controller and the steppers moved the right amounts in the right directions.
Next I have to build an enclosure for the electronics and fab up the actual cutting table.


----------



## YYCHM (Apr 19, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Well, alive in the sense that I made a CAD drawing, converted it to G-code, sent it to the controller and the steppers moved the right amounts in the right distances.
> Next I have to build an enclosure for the electronics and fab up the actual cutting table.



This makes my projects sound like child's play


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 19, 2021)

YYCHM said:


> This makes my projects sound like child's play


You'll notice that I haven't yet slotted my face plate...


----------



## YYCHM (Apr 19, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> You'll notice that I haven't yet slotted my face plate...



You're slotting it.  That's a huge step up the machining skill scale from what I did to mine.


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 20, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> Well, alive in the sense that I made a CAD drawing, converted it to G-code, sent it to the controller and the steppers moved the right amounts in the right directions.
> Next I have to build an enclosure for the electronics and fab up the actual cutting table.



Nice work @David_R8 You got it beat now! I have been reading on the process of the CAD drawing to the gcode in the Arduino. Still can't say I am comfortable with it but think I can get there. Good to know I have someone to ask if I have questions. It sounds like if you wanted to just put gcode into the arduino, you could without doing a cad drawing too, eh? Or would that be more difficult. Say you just wanted a square cut. Could you just punch it in? or still easier to do a drawing and let the elves do the programming?


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 20, 2021)

Thanks @ShawnR I'm still rather amazed that it worked to be totally honest.

At my non-skill level I'm not inclined to write the g-code directly. I suppose if it was something simple like a square it could be done. But add in radius corners etc and it would quickly become too complicated for me. Adding code to stop and start the torch or add a pause is easy to do.
My workflow now is to draw and do the CAM in Fusion360. That gives me a g-code file which I then load into the controller software. I was using UGS (Universal GCode Sender) but I've since found the OpenBuilds control software which is much easier to use. The demo last night was a simple 5" square that I quickly did in F360, did the CAM setup, exported the G-code which I opened with the OpenBuild control software.


----------



## YYCHM (Apr 20, 2021)

How many lines of G-Code did your simple 5" square generate?


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 20, 2021)

YYCHM said:


> How many lines of G-Code did your simple 5" square generate?


This is the code. The first five lines are autogenerated by F360.
%
(1001)
(Machine)
(  vendor: Autodesk)
(  description: Generic Cutting Machine)
G90 G94
G17
G21

(2D Profile1)
G54
G0 S255 M4
G0 X-4.952 Y132.84
G1 X-4 Y131.191 F1000
G2 X-3.809 Y131 Z0 I0 J-0.191
G1 Y4
G2 X-4 Y3.809 I-0.191 J0
G1 X-131
G2 X-131.191 Y4 I0 J0.191
G1 Y131
G2 X-131 Y131.191 I0.191 J0
G1 X-4
G1 X-3.047 Y132.84
G1 S0
M30
%


----------



## YYCHM (Apr 20, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> This is the code. The first five lines are autogenerated by F360.
> %
> (1001)
> (Machine)
> ...



That's not bad.  I thought it would be a lot more.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 20, 2021)

For simple shapes it's straightforward. For shapes with lots of features there can be hundreds if not thousands of lines.


----------



## Tom O (Apr 20, 2021)

That seems to work quite well, I was thinking that the torch holder might expand during use maybe you could slit it and use a pinch bolt to snug it up.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 20, 2021)

Tom O said:


> That seems to work quite well, I was thinking that the torch holder might expand during use maybe you could slit it and use a pinch bolt to snug it up.


Indeed. Originally I was going to cut it in half vertically to allow for a machine style torch but since I don't have one (yet) I left well enough alone.


----------



## YYCHM (Apr 20, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> don't have one (yet)



 YET   That's funny......


----------



## Tom O (Apr 20, 2021)

I bought one probably 16 years ago with a 25 foot lead I haven’t used it yet if I remember right it was pricey and last year I came across the manualy adjusted torch holder.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 20, 2021)

Tom O said:


> I bought one probably 16 years ago with a 25 foot lead I haven’t used it yet if I remember right it was pricey and last year I came across the manualy adjusted torch holder.


I have done some searching for a machine torch but not having much luck because this I have a blowback start machine.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 24, 2021)

Major progress today. 
Built the removable table. Used 1” square tube for the receivers under the table. 
3/4” square table arms with 1” cross members. 











Made a water tray out of 22ga sheet metal. Folded and MIG welded the corners. It’s watertight shocking no one more than me.


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 24, 2021)

Sweet!!


----------



## Tom O (Apr 25, 2021)

That’s coming along nicely


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 25, 2021)

Thanks @ShawnR and @Tom O
Lots of progress today. 
Built the electronics enclosure. 
Thought about buying a readymade enclosure but I couldn’t find one with the right dimensions. 
So went into my lumber pile found some  sanded 1/2” plywood. 
Used a piece of 1/8” aluminum sheet to mount all the bits and cut another piece to make a panel to mount the aircraft connectors and 24v power supply. 
Once I get all the wiring done I’ll paint it. 
Black of course because the magic happens inside the black box 




















Left to right is power supply, X, Y axis and torch control. Still need to do the internal wiring and then make the wiring to go from the box to the motors and torch. 
And I sorted out the v-wheel tension screws.


----------



## Hruul (Apr 26, 2021)

Looks great @David_R8.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 26, 2021)

Hruul said:


> Looks great @David_R8.


Thanks. appreciate that!


----------



## YotaBota (Apr 30, 2021)

Almost like you knew what you are doing 


David_R8 said:


> And I sorted out the v-wheel tension screws.


Do you think a lock nut will be needed to keep the tensioning nut from backing off?


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 30, 2021)

YotaBota said:


> Almost like you knew what you are doing
> 
> Do you think a lock nut will be needed to keep the tensioning nut from backing off?



Yes, I think so. There’s enough room for them. 
The top ones are a bit of a different story as the hole is further outboard of the nut. 





I’m not really keen on rebending the tabs or cutting them off and replacing them. 
I may TIG up the holes and redrill them closer in.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 30, 2021)

YotaBota said:


> Almost like you knew what you are doing
> 
> Do you think a lock nut will be needed to keep the tensioning nut from backing off?



Yes, I think so. There’s enough room for them. 
The top ones are a bit of a different story as the hole is further outboard of the nut. 





I’m not really keen on rebending the tabs or cutting them off and replacing them. 
I may TIG up the holes and redrill them closer in.


----------



## YotaBota (Apr 30, 2021)

David_R8 said:


> I may TIG up the holes and redrill them closer in.


If you redrill is there room for a longer bolt and have the lock nut on the outside of the tab using the end of the bolt to tension the v-wheel. This would mean one bolt and one nut, saves on hardware.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 30, 2021)

YotaBota said:


> If you redrill is there room for a longer bolt and have the lock nut on the outside of the tab using the end of the bolt to tension the v-wheel. This would mean one bolt and one nut, saves on hardware.



It would be close to be sure. It’s currently drill and tapped for 1/4-20. If I can move it over an 1/8” I think the end of a 1/4” cap screw will bear on the nut.


----------



## Tom O (Apr 30, 2021)

Could you put a plate on top and adjust the tension using the spacer or just extend the length with a threaded bar stock long enough to make contact With the existing adjustment screws.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 30, 2021)

All wired up and no where to go!


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 30, 2021)

It’s alive! 
Shocking no one more than me!


----------



## francist (Apr 30, 2021)

Way cool! Awesome accomplishment there David_R8 ! What’s the thickness of the goods you’re cutting, just out of curiosity.

-frank


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 30, 2021)

francist said:


> Way cool! Awesome accomplishment there David_R8 ! What’s the thickness of the goods you’re cutting, just out of curiosity.
> 
> -frank



Thanks! 
It’s just 22ga that I left over from building the water tray. The torch to work distance is too great but I thought I’d give it a whirl. 
Super stoked that it works!


----------



## francist (Apr 30, 2021)

I was gonna say something stupid like “ does it do any other shapes aside from those three…” but I thought I’d best refrain   Beats the heck out of drilling-nibbling-gnawing-and filing that’s for sure.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 30, 2021)

I'm waiting for the software update so it can do ovals. That's what all the pros have


----------



## Tom O (Apr 30, 2021)

Nice to see it going any idea what’s happening with the square?


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 30, 2021)

Tom O said:


> Nice to see it going any idea what’s happening with the square?



No idea actually. Seemed to have missed a step or six. 
I did a second run of that file and it was perfect.


----------



## Tom O (Apr 30, 2021)

Ok I was wondering about the inside verses outside cuts playing up on it. Check the program lines.


----------



## Janger (Apr 30, 2021)

What software are you using on your Mac? And how do you handle backlash? Nice project!


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 30, 2021)

Janger said:


> What software are you using on your Mac? And how do you handle backlash? Nice project!


Thanks John, it was fun and a real learning experience. 
I'm running an Arduino loaded with GRBL as the controller. I started out using Universal Gcode Sender (UGS) to drive the controller but I found it pretty funky to use. Calibrating the axis with UGS was an exercise in frustration. I switched to OpenBuildsControl and it's a pleasure to use. Calibration was dead easy and turned out to be quite accurate. 

There's almost no backlash as the pinion gears are pulled into the gear rack by springs.


----------



## SimonM (Apr 30, 2021)

Amazing David! If you still are wondering what the issue was with the cube, look at your video, it looks like the sheet somehow moved. Could have been the cable dragging, the torch being too low or a bow in the sheet.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 30, 2021)

SimonM said:


> Amazing David! If you still are wondering what the issue was with the cube, look at your video, it looks like the sheet somehow moved. Could have been the cable dragging, the torch being too low or a bow in the sheet.


Thank you sir for the compliment and for diagnosing the problem with the cut!!!
That's exactly what it was. The torch was over the edge of the sheet and moved the sheet as the X-axis came toward the camera.
@Tom O Problem solved!


----------



## Tom O (May 1, 2021)

That’s good to know! Nice catch Simon!


----------



## combustable herbage (May 1, 2021)

Very Very nice work David it moves so smoothly very slick,  nice to see all that hard work come to a successful result.  
Now the fun part some tweaking and playing!!


----------



## David_R8 (May 1, 2021)

Thanks!
If I get some time today I’ll cut the slats for the water table. 
Have some extra connectors coming so that I can still use the torch as a handheld cutter.


----------



## David_R8 (May 1, 2021)

Used my metal shear to cut strips for the water tray. Not perfect as I need to add a couple at the near end. 
I was going to use the plasma cutter to cut them but the torch switch is wired to the black box. 
I have some new connectors coming so I can also use it as a handheld torch.


----------



## YYCHM (May 1, 2021)

Why do you need all those stiffeners?


----------



## David_R8 (May 1, 2021)

YYCHM said:


> Why do you need all those stiffeners?



They aren’t for stiffness. The tray will be filled with water to catch sparks. The slats hold the material above the water.


----------



## David_R8 (May 9, 2021)

The black box is now actually black 
I need to add one more connector for the limit switches which seem to be a necessity.


----------



## Tom O (May 10, 2021)

I was wondering about that design not showing limit switches I thought those were a important part of the Cnc machines my router just stops till you crank it back which is a pain with the enclosure.




This is a first generation design that I want to upgrade the control boards on I’m thinking maybe a centroid system.


----------



## David_R8 (May 10, 2021)

Tom O said:


> I was wondering about that design not showing limit switches I thought those were a important part of the Cnc machines my router just stops till you crank it back which is a pain with the enclosure.
> View attachment 14707
> This is a first generation design that I want to upgrade the control boards on I’m thinking maybe a centroid system.


Is that a 6040?

The original design of the plasma cutter has the gear track ending before the carriage ran into the ends. So the stepper pinion would just run out of mesh and stop. 
I extended to gear rack to allow for maximum travel of the carriage for maximum cutting area.
That said, I'm using OpenBuilds control software which looks for limit switches for proper homing of the machine. Adding them is a bit of work but easier than having to think about it every time I use the machine.


----------



## Tom O (May 11, 2021)

I believe it is this one mine is a 1st generation so a little different and I had to contact them to get the software version 1.2 lol the bed is 600 x 400.
https://aimequipmentcompany.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/40-915X_EN.pdf


----------



## ShawnR (May 25, 2021)

Sooo @David_R8 have you used this CNC plasma cutter much? Would you recommend going ahead with the project or would you make a lot of changes were you to build another one? I purchased the motors and controllers but none of the other hardware yet. You made a comment in your thread on the CNC router about rigidity which makes we wonder if there is enough rigidity in this design to be satisfactory? I was wondering about still using the toothed track but mounting it to something more substantial...


----------



## David_R8 (May 25, 2021)

I haven't had occasion to use it much because I'm not happy with my water table slats. And I've been super busy with other projects <eyeroll/>
I'm considering doing away wit the water table and just making a 'skirt' for the cutting area to contain the sparks.
It is definitely not rigid enough to use for a router but the design is well suited to its purpose.
I made only two design changes:
First was to put the Y-axis gear rack above the pinion so that dirt and grime didn't accumulate in the rack and cause issues.
Second was that I extended both gear racks to have as much travel as possible. That's a plus. The negative is that I now need end stops because I can run both axis to the point where the hit the frame 
I did buy switches and the board for them but haven't managed to get them wired in.


----------



## YYCHM (Jun 18, 2021)

Hey David,

Can you cut 1" thick plate with this?

Craig


----------



## David_R8 (Jun 18, 2021)

YYCHM said:


> Hey David,
> 
> Can you cut 1" thick plate with this?
> 
> Craig


I only have a 50A plasma  machine which would not cut 1" plate. I suppose if I had an 100A machine it would cut 1" plate.


----------



## Tom O (Jun 18, 2021)

I believe mine will if you want to try freehand.


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 15, 2022)

Soooo, trying to get my head around how this works (having never used a CAM program) 
Here is what I think. Please interject or correct

Do a drawing in a CAD program ie F360 or FreeCAD
Convert the file to DXF? 
Then do what to get it to the Arduino?
Arduino has grbl in it...
any interaction on your part? Serial monitor? 
DAC is a little vague after the hardware is complete. 

Trying to understand the whole process.


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 15, 2022)

ShawnR said:


> Soooo, trying to get my head around how this works (having never used a CAM program)
> Here is what I think. Please interject or correct
> 
> Do a drawing in a CAD program ie F360 or FreeCAD
> ...


You're pretty close.
Not sure if FreeCad has a CAM side to it but I draw in F360, then switch to the CAM (Manufacturing I think it's called) where you chose the tool, set the feed rate etc. Then you tell it to generate the gcode using the grbl post-processor built into F360. It churns away and spits out a text file full of the coordinates, feed and commands to turn the torch on/off.
Save it to a jump drive and stick it into the control computer. The actual process from there depends a bit on what control software you use. 
I like the OpenBuild controller because it has a decent interface. 
Then it's basically load the file, turn on the compressor, turn on the plasma machine and press start cycle, stand back and be amazed 
Have you built one?


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 16, 2022)

David_R8 said:


> You're pretty close.
> Not sure if FreeCad has a CAM side to it but I draw in F360, then switch to the CAM (Manufacturing I think it's called) where you chose the tool, set the feed rate etc. Then you tell it to generate the gcode using the grbl post-processor built into F360. It churns away and spits out a text file full of the coordinates, feed and commands to turn the torch on/off.
> Save it to a jump drive and stick it into the control computer. The actual process from there depends a bit on what control software you use.
> I like the OpenBuild controller because it has a decent interface.
> ...



FreeCAD can generate G-Code, but I have not mastered that yet, ie, need to go through the tutorial again. Pretty straight forward, if I recall correctly. .There is info available on it 






						Path Workbench - FreeCAD Documentation
					






					wiki.freecadweb.org
				




 I think I did it once last year to see if it works. 

I load it to the Arduino through the controller? In your case, OpenBuild? I remember reading that you started with one software, then switched. I will go look that over too. 

Have not built it yet. I wanted to learn a bit about the Arduino first and get more comfortable with stepper motors and the controlling of them. The power feed project for my mill has done that. DAC does not supply any code for the Arduino so, I am guessing,  that part is all done with the CAM software and controller software? 

Thanks


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 16, 2022)

I found this to show the relationships and process









						How to Setup GRBL & Control CNC Machine with Arduino
					

In this tutorial we will learn what is GRBL and how to use it for controlling Arduino based CNC machine. GRBL is an open source firmware...




					howtomechatronics.com


----------



## Degen (Apr 16, 2022)

I am a fan of ACORN and they have just added an optical interface for plasma cutter interface.


----------



## ShawnR (Apr 16, 2022)

Degen said:


> I am a fan of ACORN and they have just added an optical interface for plasma cutter interface.



Is your system an Acorn system or did you build the hardware and just use their software?


----------



## David_R8 (Apr 16, 2022)

ShawnR said:


> FreeCAD can generate G-Code, but I have not mastered that yet, ie, need to go through the tutorial again. Pretty straight forward, if I recall correctly. .There is info available on it
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, the Arduino gets flashed with the grbl software so that it knows what to do with the gcode that it gets from the control software.


----------



## Degen (Apr 16, 2022)

ShawnR said:


> Is your system an Acorn system or did you build the hardware and just use their software?


No I used the Acorn system and purchased it from CNC4PC to get the Clearpath (servo) interface for my mill.


----------



## Degen (Apr 16, 2022)

David_R8 said:


> Yes, the Arduino gets flashed with the grbl software so that it knows what to do with the gcode that it gets from the control software.
> 
> the Arduino board is flashed with the grbl software so that it knows what to do with the gcode it receives from the control software.


Centriod's (Acorn) software has an simple programming tool called Intercon,  which makes it easy to take DfX files and create cut profiles and turn them into G-code specific to Centroid type controllers.


----------

