# DIY Riser Block for 6" x 26" Import Mills (Grizzly, Enco, Harbor Freight, etc.)



## Tmate (Jan 30, 2021)

A lack of distance between the spindle and table appears to be a universal issue for owners of these popular import mills. I think I may have come up with a relatively easy to fabricate riser block to fix the problem.

McMaster-Carr carries a 6" dia. pipe flange (Pt.#68905K389) that is almost made to order for this riser block project. They are 6" in diameter, 3/4" thick, with a 3.10" x 1/4" flange on one side. They come with four 3/4" bolt holes, two of which will be used for dowel pins for alignment purposes. A third will be used for one of the hold-down bolts. Two 1/2" diameter holes will be drilled in each plate for the other two hold down bolts. Additional detail is included in the second image below.

They cost approximately $26.00 each, and with slight modification, will stack pancake style to whatever height you desire. The machine work necessary is:

Drill two 1/2" holes in each plate
Mill or face the flange off all but one plate
Bore the existing center hole in one plate to 3.10"
Cut to length two 3/4" dowel pins (drill rod or CR round)

I'm waiting for warm day to install it. There may be some minor dimension differences in these mills depending on name brand. It's a good idea to check dimensions on yours before going too far.


----------



## Janger (Jan 30, 2021)

Nice idea.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 30, 2021)

Good idea!
Is that $26 USD each?


----------



## kevin.decelles (Jan 30, 2021)

Watching with interest . 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PeterT (Jan 30, 2021)

Where are you located Tmate?  McMaster to the rescue again!
I suspect shipping those to some parts of the world might offset the cost but who knows. Calgary & area is not exactly the industrial center of typical industrial metal supply like other parts of the country, but I would think pipe flanges would be accessible & plentiful through oil&gas supply/scrap.


----------



## Tmate (Jan 30, 2021)

Yes, $26.00 each, USD.  Considering what riser blocks for other machines cost, $182 for an additional 5 1/4" clearance doesn't seem too bad.  Of course, shipping is extra.


----------



## Tmate (Jan 30, 2021)

Located near Annapolis, Maryland.


----------



## PeterT (Jan 30, 2021)

Ah, that's what I figured (USA). Your easy access to McMaster & other metal suppliers & relatively low cost shipping is something most of us Canucks drool over. There is a whole separate forum post on this McMaster subject so I won't digress, but bottom line is its not quite as accessible to us A) because MCM in particular has been a bit choosey about non-USA customer accounts (business vs personal) and B) cross border customs, shipping $.
Anyways it looks like a good idea. Thanks for your contribution & let us know how it turns out.


----------



## DPittman (Jan 30, 2021)

Can't wait to hear the verdict when completed.


----------



## Tmate (Jun 17, 2021)

As it turns out, I scrapped the idea of the fabricated riser block for the 6x26 mill and bought a Bridgeport.


----------



## DPittman (Jun 17, 2021)

Well that's a good fix!


----------



## Brent H (Jun 17, 2021)

@Tmate : I love your thinking!!! Welcome to the club!!!  Nice looking machine!


----------



## whydontu (Jun 18, 2021)

If anyone runs across this  thread, what was used for the spacers are called a 2” Class 150 A105 forged steel raised face slip-on flange. Any industrial piping supplier can do these, EMCO, MRC, Westlund, D-Now, Flocor, many others stock them. Typical about $10 each in carbon steel, $20 in stainless


----------



## Susquatch (Jun 19, 2021)

Tmate said:


> As it turns out, I scrapped the idea of the fabricated riser block for the 6x26 mill and bought a Bridgeport.



I see that you mounted your new mill on Dolly wheels. Most of the equipment in my shop is mounted on dedicated dolly carts so I can move them around as needed. However, I did not do that for my lathe or my old mill/drill because of rigidity concerns. I wasn't planning to do that with my new to me knee mill for the same reasons either. But I confess that it would be a blessing if and when I need to move it.......

What are the parts and design of your dolly? 

I'll bet that @architect will be interested in your opinion too. Who knows, he might even be able to avoid having to enlist the help of @Brent H's wench........


----------



## architect (Jun 19, 2021)

Yes, I need to set up a dolly for my mill and even lathe to move around as I figure out my space. But I'll beef leveling feet for mine because of the sloped garage


----------



## Tmate (Jun 19, 2021)

Susquatch said:


> I see that you mounted your new mill on Dolly wheels. Most of the equipment in my shop is mounted on dedicated dolly carts so I can move them around as needed. However, I did not do that for my lathe or my old mill/drill because of rigidity concerns. I wasn't planning to do that with my new to me knee mill for the same reasons either. But I confess that it would be a blessing if and when I need to move it.......
> 
> What are the parts and design of your dolly?
> 
> I'll bet that @architect will be interested in your opinion too. Who knows, he might even be able to avoid having to enlist the help of @Brent H's wench........



H&W Machine sells a kit that uses solid bars across under the front and back of the machine, with leveling feet at the ends. My approach was similar, but I used 5" x 2" x 1/4" wall rectangular tubing with leveling feet that have integral casters. Since the machine is now 7" taller, I bought a 7" high work platform.  While it added a couple of inches in height over using a solid bar, the use of tubing allowed me to bolt the casters in place without a ton of tapping threads.  The machine is sitting on adjustable feet - not the casters.  The wide stance of the feet makes the whole thing quite stable regardless of the height.


----------



## Brent H (Jun 19, 2021)

i posted last year? About building this mobile base - search function seems to be glitching on my phone


----------



## architect (Jun 21, 2021)

Tmate said:


> H&W Machine sells a kit that uses solid bars across under the front and back of the machine, with leveling feet at the ends. My approach was similar, but I used 5" x 2" x 1/4" wall rectangular tubing with leveling feet that have integral casters. Since the machine is now 7" taller, I bought a 7" high work platform.  While it added a couple of inches in height over using a solid bar, the use of tubing allowed me to bolt the casters in place without a ton of tapping threads.  The machine is sitting on adjustable feet - not the casters.  The wide stance of the feet makes the whole thing quite stable regardless of the height.
> 
> View attachment 15499 View attachment 15500



What kind of casters are those? They look fancy.


----------



## Susquatch (Jun 21, 2021)

Tmate said:


> H&W Machine sells a kit that uses solid bars across under the front and back of the machine, with leveling feet at the ends. My approach was similar, but I used 5" x 2" x 1/4" wall rectangular tubing with leveling feet that have integral casters. Since the machine is now 7" taller, I bought a 7" high work platform......



I like it. 

Given my size, I wouldn't even need the work platform..... 

Don't know why I didn't think of dollies with separate levelling feet.


----------



## Susquatch (Jun 21, 2021)

Brent H said:


> i posted last year? About building this mobile base - search function seems to be glitching on my phone



Is this the post Brent?

https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/daily-shop-improvement.2035/post-24858

I like the idea of keeping things level. But unfortunately, welding isn't one of my best skills. My welding is downright  embarrassing.


----------



## Brent H (Jun 22, 2021)

Yes that is the post  and welding would play a decent part in making the base…


----------



## Tmate (Jun 22, 2021)

The use of leveling feet with integral casters eliminates any welding whatsoever.  They aren't cheap, but are an easy and fairly nice looking solution.
Carrymaster
ALC-1000FB
$58.00 each

Load Capacity:
2,205 lbs/ea | 4,409 lbs w/4
Accessory:
Bolts & nuts included


----------



## Susquatch (Jun 22, 2021)

Brent H said:


> Yes that is the post  and welding would play a decent part in making the base…



Sadly, I have stick, wire, and gas welding here. But I can't seem to make a decent weld no matter how hard I try. I wish I had learned when I was younger, when I could see well, and when I didn't shake so badly. Maybe it would have made a difference...... Or maybe not.....


----------



## Susquatch (Jun 22, 2021)

Tmate said:


> The use of leveling feet with integral casters eliminates any welding whatsoever.  They aren't cheap, but are an easy and fairly nice looking solution.
> Carrymaster
> ALC-1000FB
> $58.00 each
> ...



I like them! Especially the weight rating! Good value for the price too. 

But they increase the height of the mill. That's what the approach that @Brent H used avoids.

I wonder if they make such a thing that can be mounted to the sides of the mill base?

I suppose I could make an L-Bracket or drill and tap some holes.......


----------



## Tmate (Jun 22, 2021)

The only disadvantage that I can think of to 7" additional height is reaching the draw bar.  This is the solution I used for that.  I am 5' 8 1/2" tall.  Also nice to be able to use the shop vac underneath.


----------



## Susquatch (Jun 22, 2021)

Tmate said:


> The only disadvantage that I can think of to 7" additional height is reaching the draw bar.  ......
> Also nice to be able to use the shop vac underneath.



Holy crap. Necessity is the mother of invention! I can't imagine having to use something like that to tighten a draw bar! I'll never complain about being asked to change light bulbs again!

But ya, being able to vacuum under my machines would be a plus.


----------



## Tmate (Jun 22, 2021)

Susquatch said:


> Holy crap. Necessity is the mother of invention! I can't imagine having to use something like that to tighten a draw bar! I'll never complain about being asked to change light bulbs again!
> 
> But ya, being able to vacuum under my machines would be a plus.



Actually, it works great.  The trigger of the Milwaukee unit shown rests against the head of the mill. This allows you hold it near the bottom and give it a slight nudge to operate the trigger.  Releases collets just as easily.  A power drawbar would be better, but difficult to install on a step pulley Bridgeport.


----------



## architect (Jun 22, 2021)

Tmate said:


> The use of leveling feet with integral casters eliminates any welding whatsoever.  They aren't cheap, but are an easy and fairly nice looking solution.
> Carrymaster
> ALC-1000FB
> $58.00 each
> ...



Ah nice. I have really limited space in my sloped garage so being able to easily move the mill to the corner while not in use and leveling is worth the investment for me.  How do you think those rigid feet would handle a sloped floor? Where did you source them from? McMaster Carr sells a pivoted feet version but they are 2x the price and 1/4 of the load capacity:






Also, what size and thickness is your HSS?


----------



## Tmate (Jun 22, 2021)

Tubing is 2 1/2" x 5" x 3/16" wall.  I wouldn't think the slope would be a problem if not too steep.  Most have a bit of a slope toward the door.  Maybe put a piece of thick rubber pad under each foot.

At 2,000 lbs+ mine isn't easily moved by one person.  I used a long pry bar to move it into place.  Also, with a big slope it can get away from you.  I don't think it's practical to move and level it every time you want to use it.  Maybe so if you want to get it out of the way for a month or two periodically.


----------



## architect (Jun 23, 2021)

Tmate said:


> Tubing is 2 1/2" x 5" x 3/16" wall.  I wouldn't think the slope would be a problem if not too steep.  Most have a bit of a slope toward the door.  Maybe put a piece of thick rubber pad under each foot.
> 
> At 2,000 lbs+ mine isn't easily moved by one person.  I used a long pry bar to move it into place.  Also, with a big slope it can get away from you.  I don't think it's practical to move and level it every time you want to use it.  Maybe so if you want to get it out of the way for a month or two periodically.



Where did you purchase the casters? I can only find them online at this small company here that I'm cautious to purchase from. https://www.zambus.com/products/alc-1000fb.html


----------



## Susquatch (Jun 23, 2021)

architect said:


> Where did you purchase the casters? I can only find them online at this small company here that I'm cautious to purchase from. https://www.zambus.com/products/alc-1000fb.html



I checked them out. I would not be afraid of ordering from them. They carry a wide variety of nice casters with various capacities.

I am quite tall, but I don't really want my mill to get too high off the ground. That's what I like about @Brent H s design. But I can't weld very well so that isn't happening. I plan to spend some time after I've decided what mill to keep to design something that bolts to the side of the mill base such that the mill is only raised an inch or two.  

The other advantage of mounting the wheels at the side is that you can use a bigger wheel which should roll easier. I built a dolly for my 3pt hitch backhoe and I can move that myself with a little effort. With bigger wheels, the mill should be just as easy to move. 

Sounds like a great project for both of us after we get our mills running.


----------



## Tmate (Jun 27, 2021)

That's where I got mine.


----------

