# Atlas 1020 Drill Press Restoration



## Earl Wong (Apr 5, 2017)

I know, I know ... a drill press isn't the sexiest thing in a shop, but I just love mine. I saved it from being tossed in the garbage, it had missing parts, looked ugly and sounded like it had rocks in it. After a complete
teardown, replacing all the bearings and making some new parts, its the most impressive machine in my garage. It is deathly quiet, and has only .0015 runout with the quill extended. My wife couldn't even tell it was running when I used it for the first time, she thought I was messing with her.
The table looked as if they were using it as an anvil, and obviously didn't know what the hole in the center of the table was used for. I filled the holes with a metal compound then had the table surface machined.
I had to fabricate some missing lock handles, and fabricated a replica of the available for the time, accessory stand. I finished it by putting on a Rohm keyless chuck. This is my baby. Best of all... it was free!


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## RobinHood (Apr 5, 2017)

Very nicely done Earl. I like your attention to detail!

Isn't it amazing what a little TLC will do to an old clapped out machine?

Cheers, Rudy


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## PeterT (Apr 5, 2017)

Very nice. Something special about restoring the old iron. And it will repay you with years of reliable service.

What was the exact material you filled the drill tracks with? It looks great. I guess cast iron would be a bugger trying to weld... maybe braze or something but that brassy color would just accentuate the scars under its evil prior owner


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## PeterT (Apr 5, 2017)

Another one of you McMaster insiders! Grrrr....


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## Earl Wong (Apr 5, 2017)

Thanks guys, I really think these old machines were built to last, hate to see them discarded.  Peter, yes in fact I did try and tig weld them with silicon bronze filler rod, tried a spot underneath to see how it would behave, the spot became harder than Japanese arithmetic so I abandoned that idea, ended up using an epoxy from Wurth that's used on large machine ways, cant remember the name of it. BTW.. good eye on the Mcmaster bag, I do order from there a lot and usually end up with lots of spare stuff, if your ever looking for something let me know I may have it or can get it for you, heres a pic of some vintage clone Eagle 66 Oil cans I made using raw brass material from Mcmaster since it was cheap, originially was going to be Christmas presents but they turned out so well I had to keep them, got the plans off Hobby Machinist


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## PeterT (Apr 5, 2017)

Very nice oiler cans Earl. What a coinkydink, I was just looking at Eagle 66 pump build on Youtube by MrPragmaticLee. I had not realized the plans were available. Is this link the most current PDF? http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pump-oil-can-prints.33616/ My oiler is not the best, that's why I was looking. Do you use yours for the typical machine external ball type oiler nipples? Did you have the same O-ring issue other people were mentioning? Sorry for subject matter departure, they look awesome. On my long to-do list when lathe is operational again.

Wurth epoxy sounds interesting. I've heard of it for bedding machine surfaces but I didn't realize they made other cool recipes. I'm a bit of an epoxy geek, now I must have some! Where did you buy it?


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## Earl Wong (Apr 5, 2017)

Yes Peter, that's the link I downloaded and printed, the drawings were done by Robert Miller, I keep 2 oilers on hand, one filled with way oil and the other for spindle oil to squirt into the external ball oil nipples, I had to machine the nozzles smaller to make it work for the ball oil nipples. One of my cans did leak from an o-ring used to seal the finger pump to the valve body, the others were fine, I think the key is to hold a close tolerance when you machine the o-ring seal groove. The other thing is to drill a small vent hole in the top cap screw and dont fill it above the finger pump. Email me at ewong@westgatechev.com with your address and I'll mail you out a complete set of o rings, springs, check balls, brass tubes and washers for free. I had ordered enough from McMaster to build a dozen oilers but i don't plan on making anymore, at least for awhile. It would be my pleasure. 
The epoxy product is called Diamante Moglice. It is sold out of Germany. I found out about it from Stephan Gotteswinter's you-tube channel, then asked my Wurth rep if he could get his hands on some. He showed up with a small jar for me about 2 months after my request, not really sure if it came from Wurth or he somehow arranged to get me some through Wurth. You can find info on the Internet: http://diamant-polymer.de/en/products/moglice/
I can see if he can get me anymore that I can send you.


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## PeterT (Apr 5, 2017)

Emailed you Earl & thanks for nice offer. 

I miscommunicated on the epoxy. That looks like fantastic stuff & I saw it on the same Stefan YouTube channel. I don't really have a bedding or metal repair project, it was their other specialty adhesive goodies that peaked my interest & had me wondering about CDN distributer. One of my other hobby/sicknesses is RC models & related composites. Sometimes we have finicky bonding issues like metal +carbon layup + heat + vibration. And some guys are using similar high metal potting epoxies for mold tooling when they need to be autoclaved for resin cure.


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## EricB (Apr 8, 2017)

Just read through both of your restoration threads, Earl. Great work! I like the sound of that Wurth epoxy too; my lathe ways are pretty scarred up from abuse, I might have to look into getting some of that.


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## Earl Wong (Apr 9, 2017)

PeterT said:


> Emailed you Earl & thanks for nice offer.
> 
> I miscommunicated on the epoxy. That looks like fantastic stuff & I saw it on the same Stefan YouTube channel. I don't really have a bedding or metal repair project, it was their other specialty adhesive goodies that peaked my interest & had me wondering about CDN distributer. One of my other hobby/sicknesses is RC models & related composites. Sometimes we have finicky bonding issues like metal +carbon layup + heat + vibration. And some guys are using similar high metal potting epoxies for mold tooling when they need to be autoclaved for resin cure.


Hey Peter, your care package is on its way, i included everything you need to build one, enjoy and have fun!


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## Earl Wong (Apr 9, 2017)

EricB said:


> Just read through both of your restoration threads, Earl. Great work! I like the sound of that Wurth epoxy too; my lathe ways are pretty scarred up from abuse, I might have to look into getting some of that.


Thanks Eric, I'd really like to take Richard Kings scraping class If he's ever in Canada, the then we're talking way repair and improvement!


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## PeterT (Apr 9, 2017)

Thanks again for the care package. My lathe is 'on the hoist' at the moment, but hopefully all will be well soon.

Re Richard King, I've never done scraping but I'm fascinated by what I've seen on machinist forums, videos etc. Everything from making your own precision surfaces to machine restoration to greatly improving beat or lower quality tooling. I'd consider a class. Sounds like they go on all the time in USA but ++ travel expenses etc. I've also read where groups of individuals band together & bring him in. I saw he went to Europe recently.

Have you done any scraping yourself? I've ebay lurked for something used like these but they are brutally expensive.
http://www.dapra.com/biax/scrapers/index.html


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## Dogpounder (Apr 10, 2017)

Awesome work Earl.


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## Dabbler (Apr 12, 2017)

Earl - I'd second the Richard King class idea.  If lots were interested, we could bring him in?

Peter, save your money and make your own from carbide blanks.  Unless you're doing a *lot* of scraping, the replaceable blade handles aren't worth it.  An old file is a great foundation to braze the carbide to.  I've used Bert's for years, and we haven't worn it out yet.


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## RobinHood (Apr 12, 2017)

Those oil cans are works of art Earl!


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## PeterT (Apr 13, 2017)

Dabbler said:


> Peter, save your money and make your own from carbide blanks.  Unless you're doing a *lot* of scraping, the replaceable blade handles aren't worth it.  An old file is a great foundation to braze the carbide to.  I've used Bert's for years, and we haven't worn it out yet.



I was talking about the motorized bad boy  but they are BIG bucks used. Why I wonder? Are they that precision of a stroking tool? or maybe special vibration dampening?
Anyway, Armstrong/carbide is probably the only feasible way to go & consistent with wax-on wax-off apprenticeship even though my bum shoulder will hate me more.

I'm confused by the file & braze business though. I thought files were to grind & redress edge as scraper (using the hardness properties) just not as long lasting as carbide. And the reason for these purchased 'handles' is the carbide is a replaceable bolt on affair (which you buy from them of course)? Am I misunderstanding?  Can carbide be sharpened with a green wheel on the grinder or are we talking diamond?

And sorry, Bert is...?


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## EricB (Apr 13, 2017)

It's funny you guys are talking about scraping, I've actually been e-mailing Richard King about getting his DVD and about his classes. He did say that due to hassles with Canadian Customs he doesn't think he'll be coming back to Canada, but I bet if we got a good size class together we could push him to rethink that policy. I know I'd be in for sure! I've been looking into biting the bullet and heading down to the States for a class, but I'd much rather have it here!


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## Dabbler (Apr 13, 2017)

What I was referring to was to take a large, old file and belt sanding the sharp bits off.  Attach a normal file handle and braze a carbide to the wide end.  Bert, my friend, used some 1" X 1/4" cold rolled 16" long.  He uses a normal file handle, but if you are doing a lot of scraping, turn a 2" wood ball and attach to the dull end.  A single 1" X 1/4" X 3/4" carbide blank has lasted for 35 years.  He doesn't' scrape often, perhaps every 5 years.  Lately I've used it for small jobs about every 2 years.  C2 carbide chips less than C6.

I have bad shoulders, but taking lots of breaks helps. 

You can buy a Biax if you have mucho $$$.  Hand scraping takes longer, but might be more accurate (depending on who you believe, etc).

We can provide all the materials if Richard has problems bring them;  The biggest problem is with declaring his stay as 'paid work' versus 'visiting friends'...  For the past 9 years or so, entry for other than tourist purposes has really tightened up.  If Richard can be convinced, and I can afford it, then I'm in.


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## Tom O (Feb 1, 2018)

https://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,12398.0.html  Heres a video on MadModders that might be useful for a powerscraper (reply #10 )  but I'd spring load the scraper though.


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## PeterT (Feb 1, 2018)

The link embedded in your post is an interesting one. http://www.die-minilok.de/Werkstatt/Schaber.htm
I kinda figurd the innards of Biax action is not trivial.


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## TOBARApprentice (Feb 4, 2018)

I used to manage a Corporate Flight Department and brought “experts” in all the time to speak and provide training. There is no problem with CBSA if you make it clear that he is an expert and essentially in his case, the top of his field. Hell, we even brought Steven Hawking in once, no problem. So lads let’s stop kicking the idea around and get this going. I’m in. Where is everyone located? I can look into a venue. I’m in Ancaster, (Hamilton Ontario) and could look into using a high school machine shop or maybe Mohawk College’s machine shop. The Dean there is awesome. I had been talking to him about tutoring me and he was onside, perhaps he might be able to help us out. Thoughts?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## PeterT (Feb 4, 2018)

Maybe we should create a separate'expression of interest' type post, but at our last meetup at Modern Tool (Calgary) some of us were chatting informally. Dabbler had some knowledge of a scraping expert. Another member (very sorry forgot your name, but  I remember you are a race car enthusiast) had a connection to SAIT (Southern Alberta Institute of Technology). So maybe some raw ingredients of an instructor & a venue to hold a workshop? Maybe in the off-season months when school was out & machine shop facilities were not otherwise not being used? Lots of 'ifs' here - how much, how long, how many attendees (because its bound to be out of town for someone). Anyway, other than 'interest' in the black art of scraping & machine reconditioning, that's about all I can contribute.


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## Dabbler (Feb 4, 2018)

My scraping guy wants to retire.  My friend is still gently talking to him about coming, but it doesn't look good.


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## Kelly McLaughlin (Feb 5, 2018)

Very Nice work Earl! you're a man after my own heart. refurbished old machines are waaaayyyy better than new ones! and there's always stories to go with them : )


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## Janger (Feb 5, 2018)

TOBARApprentice said:


> I used to manage a Corporate Flight Department and brought “experts” in all the time to speak and provide training. There is no problem with CBSA if you make it clear that he is an expert and essentially in his case, the top of his field. Hell, we even brought Steven Hawking in once, no problem. So lads let’s stop kicking the idea around and get this going. I’m in. Where is everyone located? I can look into a venue. I’m in Ancaster, (Hamilton Ontario) and could look into using a high school machine shop or maybe Mohawk College’s machine shop. The Dean there is awesome. I had been talking to him about tutoring me and he was onside, perhaps he might be able to help us out. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Most of us are in Alberta, and Calgary. ... unfortunately ...


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## Dabbler (Feb 13, 2018)

So I earlier said he wanted to retire...  I got it crossed wired - he's coming *out* of retirement.  Please see the post on the scraping guy from minnesota...  I'll keeep thing up to the minute there!


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## Earl Wong (Jun 13, 2022)

For those of you who have been asking... If your 15 inch Atlas drill press is slipping between the pulley and quill, it is probably caused from a cracked plastic splined driver sleeve between the pulley shaft and quill. It basically acts as the "fuse" to protect anything from damage. Clausing was able to provide me a copy of the original mechanical drawing for the sleeve and I was able to reproduce it in Fusion 360. I recently purchased a 3D printer and plan on printing this part. if anyone needs one send me a message


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## Earl Wong (Oct 4, 2022)

Finally the last piece of the puzzle, 3D printed a new driver sleeve from PLA, works great but will invest in a printer capable of printing nylon. 
The original parts were made from nylon and is much better suited for the application


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## PeterT (Oct 4, 2022)

That's a beautiful looking restoration Earl. It looks like the original part may have been injected molded? 
I've heard 3D printing nylon is a bit fussier but people must be figuring it out.


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## jcdammeyer (Oct 4, 2022)

PeterT said:


> That's a beautiful looking restoration Earl. It looks like the original part may have been injected molded?
> I've heard 3D printing nylon is a bit fussier but people must be figuring it out.


I agree.  But I was expecting at least one racing stripe on the paint job...


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## ducdon (Oct 5, 2022)

Earl Wong said:


> I know, I know ... a drill press isn't the sexiest thing in a shop, but I just love mine. I saved it from being tossed in the garbage, it had missing parts, looked ugly and sounded like it had rocks in it. After a complete
> teardown, replacing all the bearings and making some new parts, its the most impressive machine in my garage. It is deathly quiet, and has only .0015 runout with the quill extended. My wife couldn't even tell it was running when I used it for the first time, she thought I was messing with her.
> The table looked as if they were using it as an anvil, and obviously didn't know what the hole in the center of the table was used for. I filled the holes with a metal compound then had the table surface machined.
> I had to fabricate some missing lock handles, and fabricated a replica of the available for the time, accessory stand. I finished it by putting on a Rohm keyless chuck. This is my baby. Best of all... it was free!
> ...


Nice work.


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## Art M (Oct 25, 2022)

Just disc this thread. Awesome restoration Eric. I too had to epoxy the arc of shame on my old buffalo 18 when I resurrected it


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## Dabbler (Oct 25, 2022)

PeterT said:


> Dabbler had some knowledge of a scraping expert.



My expert, Dennis, won't cross the border into Canada.  so he's out.  And I wouldn't go to a Richard King seminar if *he* paid *me*.


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## DPittman (Oct 25, 2022)

Dabbler said:


> And I wouldn't go to a Richard King seminar if *he* paid *me*.


Why's that?


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## Dabbler (Oct 26, 2022)

... PM sent


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