# In the shop today



## Bofobo (Apr 8, 2018)

Well i figure i need a spot for the projects that dont require a dedicated write up. Ill start with  this modified quad/dirtbike front brake ... um ... mount, its for a volt meter on one of my motorbikes


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## Bofobo (Apr 8, 2018)

Also today i faced up my BPC wheels but need to center the center holes and find a suitable axle.  



I also made up the plug and mounted it in the lathe to see if i could turn this size of material and i can although the steady is to small to use 


 this will be welded as solid as i can manage on a roller i have yet to build


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## Janger (Apr 9, 2018)

Fun project Mike.


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## PeterT (Apr 9, 2018)

Is that some of the 4140 stock you guys got last year?
What does 'BPC' refer to?

never mind, I get it, saw your other post


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## Johnwa (Apr 10, 2018)

There are some design requirements for BPC in section 10 
http://static1.squarespace.com/stat...20c647c7373c207c/1457105311582/2016+Rules.pdf

Thickness at the breach is supposed to be at least 1 caliber.

Also are you planning on annealing after welding.  I would think the weld area will be brittle otherwise.

Play safe


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## Bofobo (Apr 10, 2018)

This appears to be a non legal document outlining requirements for battle reenactments. Not sure of the relevence. 

Annealing sounds like a good enough  reason to build the foundry expansion chamber i had planned though


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## GrayTech (Apr 11, 2018)

Not sure welding is the best method for a breach plug. I would look into a threaded plug. It needs to be much thicker too.


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## Tom O (Apr 20, 2018)

here's a cannon and other stuff!
https://kalispell.craigslist.org/tls/d/tools-anvil-snow-plows-4/6562548346.html


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## Janger (Apr 21, 2018)

Can you import a cannon?


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## Johnwa (Apr 21, 2018)

I believe cannons are treated as antiques even if they are reproductions.  Same goes for flintlocks, but amuzzle loading percussion cap gun has to be an original.  I don’t think there are any restrictions on importing antique guns but I’ve never did it.


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## Johnwa (Apr 22, 2018)

There’s a black powder Brit army shoot in Bowden late June.  It doesn’t appear that there will ba any cannon though.
I have made contact with a fellow from Medicine Hat that’s involved in Riel Rebellion re-enactment.  They have a ½ scale 9 pounder that they shoot.  So far they don’t have any schedule for 2018.


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## Bofobo (Nov 17, 2018)

As this is my general shop thread, today i start a new lantern tool post. I need one to hold my smaller boring/threading bar. Now before anyone gets into suggesting i  buy a QCTP .... im broke, and i like the lantern style (yes i have used QCTP) added bonus i already have a piece of metal i can use.


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## Bofobo (Nov 17, 2018)

first a rough size round is cut so i can face in the lathe to dimension, i will also drill the post hole at this time before i square it up rough on the band saw so it will fit in my mill for final sizing 


 .... 30 minutes later i realize im hardly cutting and needed to add a few more shoes


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## DPittman (Nov 17, 2018)

Keep the pictures of your project coming as it progresses!   Is that 4140 you're cutting?


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## Bofobo (Nov 17, 2018)

lines scribed, clearances checked and on we go


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## Bofobo (Nov 17, 2018)

DPittman said:


> Keep the pictures of your project coming as it progresses!   Is that 4140 you're cutting?


Yes it is some of my 4”od 4140


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## Johnwa (Nov 17, 2018)

One of my first projects when I got my lathe was a Williams type holder, much like this one.  It handles 3 different sizes of bars and works quite well.


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## YYCHM (Nov 17, 2018)

Did someone mention BPC as in Black Powder Cannon?  What caliber, how big we talking?

Member historicalarms has lots of experience with the big ones.


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## Bofobo (Nov 17, 2018)

Quick moment of panic and disaster averted, facing first





and drilling with plenty of cutting fluid


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## Bofobo (Nov 17, 2018)

That will do nicely, now i can scribe and slice 



Im removing the first cut mark by offsetting the new marks


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## DPittman (Nov 17, 2018)

Bofobo said:


> Yes it is some of my 4”od 4140



Just for interest sake... I just cut some of my 5" 4340 (the stuff with a hole in it) on my band saw and they took 12 minutes for a slice.  I was happy with that. (Asian 7x12 saw).

Your project looks like it will turn out well, it's almost as fun watching the pictures as doing something myself!


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## Bofobo (Nov 17, 2018)

Ive got  the locating slot milled 



Now ill put it in place on the lathe and drill the 1/2” hole for the bar


 before i bring it back to the mill for drilling and tapping the securing screw holes


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## Bofobo (Nov 17, 2018)

Getting everything in order for the holes


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## Everett (Dec 5, 2018)

Just saw the latest part of this thread about the tool post - no need to spend money on a QCTP if you have metal sitting around anyway.  It's not a step backwards if it fits your needs and budget.  I have a piston QCTP that came with my lathe and it's not rigid enough for serious parting so I made a turret for it and it's nice and solid.  That tool holder you're making will be VERY rigid and should serve you well!


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## Bofobo (Feb 7, 2019)

Ive been so busy between doing my mini mill motor upgrade and work but i took some time to visit my old machine shop recently to make a modification to my sons dirtbike fork. I had to remove a small shoulder to fit a second oil seal under the snap ring, just a few shots of that ..








... and though i have no further photos im sure it will work great!


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## Bofobo (Feb 7, 2019)

And today i built this ..... 





It is a motor cycle wheel changing stand. It rotates on a used blazer front bearing, one blazer rim and one truck rim and stands 32” tall. A couple of “attachments” to come later are a bead breaker bar and a tire spreading mechanism for repair of holes (I learned how to do a proper off rim patch) also used for holding a tire and drilling holes in it for this purpose .....


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## DPittman (Feb 7, 2019)

Wow your getting stuff done!  I thought you had a SMALL lathe? 
Hey that motorcycle tire looks just right for getting around on the streets around here!  Pretty knarly!


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## Bofobo (May 31, 2019)

Its been awhile but i have been busy, i built a motorcycle carrying unit for my truck (photos and story to come) but im going to start with my coal stove revival. This unit came from my family farm and it will reside in my home built camper which sits as a chassis currently. ( insert start photo here) i started with some scraps i have laying around, the pipe was an old clothes line pole 


and as the chimney hole is oval i started with hammering a flat and removing the sides with a grinder, 








and once it was all welded solid i needed to make the “damper” plate, i started with a pre-made one 


removed the plate because its the right size for the filler hole, 


shortened the skewer and used this weird off cut (thanks Janger) from my sword forge project as the new butterfly 





the hold down tab was formerly a cut-off from the chimney construction 





last photo was an optional early idea. It was not an easy thing to do but i managed to mount it mid way down the pipe and it works well enough 








work on the “hot plates” will come soon and the ash tray and air inlet piece which i will make as one unit has been started once again as scraps, 





the odd looking bit is a jig i was using to form pole ends no longer required. But my phone died and it was late so progress stopped here.


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## Bofobo (May 31, 2019)

Its been awhile but i have been busy, i built a motorcycle carrying unit for my truck (photos and story to come) but im going to start with my coal stove revival. This unit came from my family farm and it will reside in my home built camper which sits as a chassis currently. ( insert start photo here) i started with some scraps i have laying around, the pipe was an old clothes line pole View attachment 5279and as the chimney hole is oval i started with hammering a flat and removing the sides with a grinder, View attachment 5282View attachment 5283View attachment 5284and once it was all welded solid i needed to make the “damper” plate, i started with a pre-made one View attachment 5285removed the plate because its the right size for the filler hole, View attachment 5286shortened the skewer and used this weird off cut (thanks Janger) from my sword forge project as the new butterfly View attachment 5288View attachment 5289the hold down tab was formerly a cut-off from the chimney construction View attachment 5290View attachment 5287last photo was an optional early idea. It was not an easy thing to do but i managed to mount it mid way down the pipe and it works well enough View attachment 5291View attachment 5292View attachment 5293work on the “hot plates” will come soon and the ash tray and air inlet piece which i will make as one unit has been started once again as scraps, View attachment 5281View attachment 5280the odd looking bit is a jig i was using to form pole ends no longer required. But my phone died and it was late so progress stopped here.


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## DPittman (May 31, 2019)

Hey that's looking good!  I built a wood stove for my hunting tent and can't wait to build the next one someday  now that I got the prototype out of the way!

I'm looking forward to your next update/pictures.


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## Bofobo (May 31, 2019)

DPittman said:


> Hey that's looking good!  I built a wood stove for my hunting tent and can't wait to build the next one someday  now that I got the prototype out of the way!
> 
> I'm looking forward to your next update/pictures.


Did you happen to notice my other stove in the photos? Thats half an old compressor tank i found in a ditch and some other scraps, my most used creation of all times.


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## Tom O (Jun 1, 2019)

looks like you used motorcycle barrels for heat exchangers.


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## Bofobo (Jun 1, 2019)

Tom O said:


> looks like you used motorcycle barrels for heat exchangers.


I think you are referring to the CD rack? Thats for hand protection mostly.


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## Tom O (Jun 1, 2019)

Ok I see that now!


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## Tom O (Jun 1, 2019)

I’ve got a empire that I bought for a hun I want to put it in the garage but have been waiting  to change out the floor heater then I can use the existing hole for the chimney.


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## Bofobo (Jun 8, 2019)

Im so bad at picture taking once i start a project but i put this unit together for hauling my motor bikes and its working great thus far (now a month old  ) 
It all started as a plan in my head years ago, so i collected  metal until i had what i needed 


these two pieces came from other scrapped projects, the hitch was a material support rack from my cousins ford ranger he made and used for his shop. The other 


was a mount i hobbled together for hauling mountain bikes on my old blazers spare tire carrier (it swings out so worked great) blazers scrapped now so its been siting. The tire “holder here came from a swap meet but i did not use it in the final design 


an old bed frame (alley find) and some metal screen from my father (1/8”wire) and some unknown angle iron makes the “bed” 


and this is where the finished project is used to highlight the build (sigh) i had a rod with a hole on each end so i cut them off and filled in the space with weld 


grommet to reduce noise from my aluminum ramp 





made of a ramp that was twisted at the top, reinforced with broken painter pole pieces used in christmas lighting. 


Harvested u-bolt hangars in the middle from my blazer differential swap for the anchoring turn buckles. And the wheel support is a great place to store the car jack that supports the bike centre of mass (shocks move even under tension (which is bad for a number of reasons))  


i will post a mounted on the vehicle picture but not yet .. soon though


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## DPittman (Jun 8, 2019)

Hey I like how you make with what you have!  A talent for sure.


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## Bofobo (Jun 28, 2019)

Needed a bushing for my sons bike, i had the material so i made it happen, didn't photograph the final product (bad bad bAd job) works good thus far though


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## Bofobo (Feb 27, 2020)

Lots to catch up on after lights but also bad with some photos so here is a mash up of stuff upcoming and some complete all needed metal work in some way. 
The copper rivets on the watch strap were fun and it was not as easy as I thought requiring several attempts, the aluminum piece is for a carburetor mount adapter for an eBay bugger up that worked out great, the free mini drill press I found will find a home with my Antique metal body drill, and tap wrench I broke which will be replaced with the now infamous “ of unknown origin, TOT type handle”. My brass bushing saga continued for my bigger cheap bike and is performing great. 
I also took a canvas tarp, old Christmas paint poles and made a tent with metal brackets, some fancy wood work on my mini mill for plugs and other bits, the wood stove is purpose built for that project, more pictures upon request, and the sled trailer I built to tow it around, had to weld the “eye” bolts after they failed and I made two different tow bars one of which gets an update photo soon. 

I also realized I did not show changes to my motorcycle so those I’ll post soon as well


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## Bofobo (Mar 14, 2020)

So I picked up a set of IGAGING DRO scales from my CX709 from TomK and I installed them over the past week. I used only supplied hardware and still need to consolidate the wires, which might come in the form of the coolant tower (still to come, tap purchased) but my cross slide and carriage now have digital read outs.

I had an abandoned approach I show here and I need to mill out some more carriage crossslide material for an extra 1/2” of use but I can do without as the scale would contact the back splash with it. Stoked about it


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## Bofobo (Mar 14, 2020)

I have been having a problem with my MT3 tail stock -JT33 drill chuck arbour getting stuck when I want to remove it, this results in my brass wear plug being pulled out 


 the set screw is not removable due to damage trying to remove from damaged threads, I’ve been getting around this by removing the whole sleeve and tappy tap smash it out thus far I believe that the tang (which is not on the live centre or dead centres I have) is binding on the reduction as shown here 





 so I started grinding it off but realized that I could cut some corners and be done with it .... so I did 


I’ve not had a problem since.


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## YYCHM (Mar 14, 2020)

Thanks for posting, I pickup my scales tomorrow.   Did you re-length size your scales and if so how did that go?

Craig


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## Bofobo (Mar 14, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Thanks for posting, I pickup my scales tomorrow.   Did you re-length size your scales and if so how did that go?
> 
> Craig


Yes several times and ended up with one barely useable but it’s mounted. Cuts easy as aluminum does, the scale part itself is thin and copper with resin, like computer chip, files for clean edges. Hiding the cross slide scale was the better part of the job, the rest took only half of today and was simple enough for my machine. Good luck


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## YYCHM (Mar 14, 2020)

Bofobo said:


> Yes several times and ended up with one barely useable but it’s mounted. Cuts easy as aluminum does, the scale part itself is thin and copper with resin, like computer chip, files for clean edges. Hiding the cross slide scale was the better part of the job, the rest took only half of today and was simple enough for my machine. Good luck



I'm kind of in awe over you attaching the scale to the cross slide nut like you did.  That idea would never have occurred to me.  Well done!!!  I'm looking at my machine as we speak.


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## Bofobo (Mar 14, 2020)

My scale mount holes barely worked out in favour of that solution but a nylock nut polished it off nicely after that option presented itself


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## YYCHM (Mar 14, 2020)

Bofobo said:


> My scale mount holes barely worked out in favour of that solution but a nylock nut polished it off nicely after that option presented itself



Do me a favor please.  What's the width and thickness of those scales?

Thanks,

Craig


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## Marc Moreau (Mar 14, 2020)

Bofobo said:


> So I picked up a set of IGAGING DRO scales from my CX709 from TomK and I installed them over the past week. I used only supplied hardware and still need to consolidate the wires, which might come in the form of the coolant tower (still to come, tap purchased) but my cross slide and carriage now have digital read outs.
> 
> I had an abandoned approach I show here and I need to mill out some more carriage crossslide material for an extra 1/2” of use but I can do without as the scale would contact the back splash with it. Stoked about it View attachment 8024View attachment 8025View attachment 8026View attachment 8027View attachment 8028View attachment 8029View attachment 8030View attachment 8031View attachment 8032View attachment 8033View attachment 8034View attachment 8035View attachment 8036View attachment 8037View attachment 8038View attachment 8039View attachment 8040View attachment 8041


I like this idea I was thiking how to do this ,first I try with magnet ??? then I start my restoration not finish yet . Thank you for all details pictures.


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## Janger (Mar 14, 2020)

Very clever Mike.


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## YYCHM (Mar 14, 2020)

Janger said:


> Very clever Mike.



+++ on that.  That's what I call thinking outside of the box.  Love it.


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## PeterT (Mar 14, 2020)

Dumb question but is the DRO bolted into the anti-backlash threaded holes?


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## Bofobo (Mar 15, 2020)

PeterT said:


> Dumb question but is the DRO bolted into the anti-backlash threaded holes?


Well I would have to say no, the scale is though.


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## Bofobo (Mar 15, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Do me a favor please.  What's the width and thickness of those scales?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Craig


Well Craig, somewhere close to 1/4x3/4 if not just less,


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## PeterT (Mar 15, 2020)

_Well I would have to say no, the scale is though._

What I mean is, how do you adjust backlash now? Or are there set screws & you are using the outer bit of thread to mount?


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## Bofobo (Mar 15, 2020)

I have the scale mount bolt holes over sized from original, the bolts that control the tension on the brass lash block are doubling as my mounting screws


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## Bofobo (Mar 15, 2020)

Here is a few more (mostly) post production photos of my wood stove 




Side and back and top view, the bits on the side are for the threaded legs (pictured later with tools and accessories) and once built, the side shelf. After it’s first use I needed to make a change with air injection so my solution is as follows 











and the air is controlled via this slide which moves with the loading/main door closed for flow 





I can close it fully and hold it closed behind the “blast door”  which has a threaded locking handle 


 accessories include wire, a small (unmade as yet) shovel, a poker and blade, rain cap, flue damper, ash tray, feet shelf and carry handle




















And a word on design, the air enters and ash leaves from the bottom grate starting at the back, fuel is put in from the front, the combusted gasses and heat are all forced under the top “cook surface” with this divider welded solid 


 my temp gun said +400* when I had it together for second testing, and I could easily burn food during the first test. I am excited to try it out some more soon. I’ll leave with a few chimney bits although I will convert to premised exhaust pipe later to reduce overall weight. 








 Full standing photo and other attachments as updates become available


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## YYCHM (Mar 15, 2020)

I have this wood stove in our shed that the wife has been bitching about getting rid of (I think it makes a nice shelf?). There is pipe, and a damper (inside) and a hat (maybe, not sure).  Yours for the taking.  NE Calgary.

Craig


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## Tom Kitta (Mar 16, 2020)

The tang is the part that is driving a drill bit - usually when you cut the corners off or the sheer off there is not enough contact anymore and the drill / chuck spins. I had to rebuild few tangs with welding a bit of material on them so they do not slip. 

I am glad the scales worked out for you. Most of us have problems installing them on small machines as the glass scales on cross slide are tough to fit in.

You have exact same lathe I had just with bigger 1.5hp motor.


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## Bofobo (Mar 16, 2020)

Further to my DRO install the coolant system took some form this morning. 
I started with some home cast aluminum 


 I had pre milled this as a test piece but it’s just stock and I have plenty of cast left so agile in the block 


 it got a few clearance holes spaced @1.125” after this for the holes pre drilled in the carriage, then I made some extensions from gas pipe 


 fitted together with some standard brass 1/4-18 NPT 





mounted up








now I need to get a reservoir and figure mounting and drain w/screen, the pump I have already from eBay it’s twin is happily working on my bonsai landscape project so I’m sure will do nicely once I get the tank together


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## historicalarms (Mar 17, 2020)

I "homebuilt" my first coolant outfit and it wasn't "perrty" but it was cheap and worked perfectly.

    the only thing that was "built for the purpose"  of coolant was the plastic jointed nozzle & magnetic base that BB sells, everything else was hardware bought bits & pieces. 
     The "holding tank was a plain ol' 5 gal pail, the pump was a $20 submersible fish tank-pond pump (inexpensive but still much more volume-pressure than is required) from any garden center and the rest was some plastic 1/8" flexible tubing, a 1/8" 3-way brass junction fitting & a 1/8" brass plumbing needle valve from C.T.
     Three things that need to happen for this to work properly...first was to set the pump to hang just below coolant level in the pail...second is that the drain from your chip tray must extend all the way to the bottom of the pail and exit there, this peeps all the heavy sediment at the bottom so your pump will not grab it.
      Thirdly, the 3-way must be installed between the pump & the plastic nozzle. The 3rd outlet of the joint needs a return hose all the way back to the pail. the Needle valve is installed in the return hose (somewhere easily assemble for setting).
    The needle valve is crucial to a good operation, The pump, by itself will produce much more pressure than you require for the coolant. The flow control on the plastic nozzle will control amount of flow but wont control pressure and lots of "splash" will occur. with the needle valve in the return line , a pressure release can be set before it gets to the nozzle with still enough to force coolant thru it.


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## Tom Kitta (Mar 17, 2020)

Yeah I have to get coolant working for my little lathe as well - with some heavier turning little guy produces tons of heat and squirting on it all the time is not wonderful... on the other hand coolant splashing all over the place is not great either - but low speed turning like up to 200 RPM its not bad.


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## CalgaryPT (Mar 17, 2020)

Bofobo said:


> Here is a few more (mostly) post production photos of my wood stove
> ...


Gotta love projects that that are so practical.


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## YYCHM (Mar 27, 2020)

How does this anti-backlash cross slide nut work?  Is the nut one or two pieces? Why two screws?

Craig


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## Bofobo (Mar 28, 2020)

One piece, the gap is a slot, the cap screws holding my dro scale are the tension screws and the threaded hole is my cross slide connection, further I believe 2 screws because then it clears the centre hole without issue


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## YYCHM (Mar 28, 2020)

Bofobo said:


> One piece, the gap is a slot, the cap screws holding my dro scale are the tension screws and the threaded hole is my cross slide connection, further I believe 2 screws because then it clears the centre hole without issue



How much nut material is at the bottom of the slot?  Is there a lateral hole (larger than the slot) through the nut at the bottom of the slot?  This sounds like something I could do to my cross slide nut.


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## Bofobo (Mar 28, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> How much nut material is at the bottom of the slot?  Is there a lateral hole (larger than the slot) through the nut at the bottom of the slot?  This sounds like something I could do to my cross slide nut.


I did not not remove it to look, it seems to my recollection the slot bottom was solid flat. I kept my scale on the top because I did not wish to  mill out the slot on the carriage.... I’m not sure if that’s an answer or not


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## Bofobo (Apr 7, 2020)

Hacked my way through a replacement tap holder, it’s not pretty but rustic is beautiful. Starting with some unknown material the old handle was used as a size gauge 



The body was made of 1cm bar stock from the estate of an old woodworker in Longview AB, 


 so of course once I get moving I tend to forget photos but have a few, 


 free formed the radius, bent one of the handles taking to much material but I got a useable tap wrench again 





all in all perhaps 2hours in the shop.


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## Bofobo (Jul 16, 2020)

Ok so I’ve got a noise from my lathe that sounds like a loose collar, has been since I can remember, (I bought new, in crate) no big deal this far but I decided to open the top and peak inside today I found nice clean oil and a gasket made of MASKING TAPE 








so that was great  I trimmed it and then noted that there was some pockets of oil in a place above the bearings, thinking that odd I proved them with a pick 





now free of the grease that plunged the hole it no longer pools but runs down to lubricate the bearing (checked that) thinking with the tape also removed I was all set, so I put the lid back and ran the machine a few minutes, after which inspected again. I found the oil had not managed to splash on the sides as shown in the pictures in order to lubricate nor saturated the step enough to do so either, so after a few minutes trying to figure a way to assist the oil into these holes, entertaining several ideas including strips of AL, I settled on a bent piece of copper wire 


 fed into each hole, as the lid is placed it presses down on the wire and goes around the fill bung to the cross in the casting allowing a flow of oil. I tested the idea and after running the machine and removing the lid to check, indeed the wire was letting beads of oil roll into each hole. And soon I guess you tube will get a follow up video for this lathes issue.


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## PeterT (Jul 16, 2020)

My apron oil passages were plugged with gunk that looked conspicuously like the brown protection mung they spray on the new machine. Some shafts were never getting oil from day one. Thankfully they were less critical than headstock but lack of lubrication is never a good thing. Some passages I was able to run a wire & solvent through. Out came a waxy turd complete with metal drill swarf. If the passage dead-ends on a critical shaft I'm not sure what the best plan is short of disassembly but solvent, copper wire, blast of air, rinse & repeat is worth a shot If the gallery makes right angles in the casting I wouldnt use a wire just in case. I'm starting to appreciate older/more sophisticated machines with oil tubes that deliver where oil is needed. If there is a problem, pull the tube.


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## Bofobo (Jul 17, 2020)

This grease was considerably thinner than that, and could even have been mixed with glue residue from the tape gasket


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## Tom O (Jul 17, 2020)

Does the lid have enough meat to relive a space to trap the oil for the passage way?


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## Bofobo (Jul 17, 2020)

You mean like the milled shoulder on the headstock? It should act as a trough on its own, I believe that is the intended purpose of it but the wicking action of the oil on the slight grade of the wire gets it there sooner


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## RobinHood (Jul 18, 2020)

Good catch on the noise being related to (a lack of) bearing lubrication, Mike. Good solution to try and get oil to the bearings using the wire.


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## Bofobo (Jul 22, 2020)

Well I found myself in the vast horde of antiques in the farm garage of my grandfather, I found many things including some future post material as handles are made, but in the mean time I found 2 oil cans one was clean and ready to use with metal innerds but the other needed some love. I started with a wipe down and disassembled it 


the balls were corroded and it seemed full of water so I checked the drawer and found 2 new/used from a bike and put it back together, works great now! The pin is just simple so I showed a closer view


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## Bofobo (Dec 30, 2020)

Today I knurled the ends of my tap holder because I didn’t for some reason, and didn’t take any pictures but I have a bump knurler and on 1/4” stock. Then I moved on to a new tailstock core for my beaver wood lathe. 


The current dead centre is great for a dead centre 


but I need to drill because ..... well, of course I do, so i removed the old one took some measurement notes down on my new white board 


and turned some nice off cut I had into a JT33 tailstock adapter 


with an old beaten 13mm drill chuck 


foraged from a pile of junk in my grand fathers farm garage, and that needed a touch of work to even work is not the best but works. 


 . I also made some aluminum pins for what is practically an antique 


and I need a 1/16th rod to hold in place the fabric on the aluminum chassis


, merry Christmas and happy new year


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## Bofobo (Mar 5, 2021)

Got a few new things done and a few started. 

For my belt grinder, being an ongoing endeavour I finally got my wheels made up, 





 











or rather almost, I still need to add pitch to the tracking wheel and I’m struggling to settle on a design for the working end with the scraps I have. I need to scrounge up some nesting square bar and a plate to work with. The drive wheel was bump knurled on an arbour, the tool bearings are 6202 and the guide bearings are 6302. 

Sorry boys this is going to be a long read.

I picked up 


an old beaver wood lathe a couple years ago and it only has a dead centre 


so I decided to make a chuck holder for the tailstock 








and might be able to find a good chuck (this one is beaten badly) and live centre. 

I also needed a rack of some kind for my skidoo, so I used some aluminum 1.5” flat bar and painter pole aluminum hex pipe, 








pretty basic no weld and it works great,


 I can go 100km over whooped out snow and not loose my chainsaw or bag. 

I also felt it was time to do some work on grandfathers old record vise, 





it has one jaw,


 the other was smashed off many years ago, a time ago I made a replacement jaw


 but the old bolts were sheared flush so needed love, I managed to secure the piece in my mini mill with a bolt through the screw hole.


 


Now I need to wait for my next trip to foothills fasteners to get appropriate bolts.


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## Bofobo (Mar 5, 2021)

And since Honda likes to rivet it’s oem parts, in this case a brake pedal made of steel on an aluminum arm with an aluminum rivet and no “pedal pad” available only $140 for the whole unit I made a new, bigger bolt on, 


and blued it with a torch in place as an experiment. 


The material for this was a piece of 3/4” dirtbike shipping create, used a hand grinder vise and fluxcore. And no I didn’t use brass chips for a bed in a holder to blue this part, i did wire wheel the rust off rust though but no other cleaning


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## trlvn (Mar 5, 2021)

Bofobo said:


> decided to make a chuck holder for the tailstock



That's a Rockwell Beaver 3400, isn't it?  Quite a few years ago, long before I got a metal lathe, a guy was trying to start a little side business providing a replacement part like that except that he milled a #1 Morse taper into it and a knockout bar. I was one of the first guys to throw my hand up so he sent me the prototype.  Unfortunately it wouldn't fit my lathe.  It was only out by a small amount but was too big to go into the tail stock casting.  He was good about it and prepared another that fit very nicely.  However, I think it killed his idea of a side business since there was no easy way to determine ahead of time which size was required.  Most wood turners don't have an accurate caliper or micrometre.  Plus he had to put a lot of machining time into each one.  Hard to sell them at a price that valued his time for much.

Craig


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## Bofobo (Mar 6, 2021)

Yeah, it was an easy job to make and I had everything, it’s pretty simple to swap the end I made the threads long enough to pop the tool off by backing it out, the chuck is not good inside (any part) but I managed to use it once now and I need a new one pronto.


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## Bofobo (Jul 22, 2021)

Ok, so I’ve got some time now to post my belt grinder build, I’ve used it a few times for some messing around and I’m happy enough with it that I might mount the switch soon. It’s not a VFD just a dryer motor on full. 

Starting with the drive wheel, 


that’s the oily finished knurling, it’s very nice and consistent though it took some time,


and I did it all with a bump knurle’r. 


The finished wheel is directly mounted to the motor shaft, mount and motor from an older treadmill, and made of a 4” solid piece of the “heavy metal” group buy (if anyone knows what it is comment below!!) 
I’ll input now that all these materials were salvaged over many years and this is the result of mental planning certain concepts and sudden inspiration building techniques (OA: no plans)
So I started with the bearings I had for the other wheels 


and convenient cutoffs for my idler and working wheels. 








 Then I had a long long brain storm about what material I would use for what, considering operational limitations and the functionality of basic setup and additional future tooling. After I had a main body, “I” beam, and a tower 


I started with solid platten 


 and after making the “working face adjustable working angle tool body”  I made axles 





I peened them I place to test fit and run and made them all hang on a telescopic arm


 the adjustment wheel needed to be able to raise and lower for certain angles so I made that happen with these parts 











 once laid out and welded in place I had to test 


 I finished off the welding and final wheel setting and later layered these knobs to levers 


after which I settled on an old gas shock from my early 90’s Blazer rear window to be my “auto” tensioner (steel is a bit tight and un-lubed) 


 and because I apparently didn’t take better photos at the end from pure excitement I’ll have to make a second post about it. Now with 12 grades of sanding belts I find Scotch Brite belts and a cork polishing belt. Now to build a coat rack for them all


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