# CX709/CX089



## phaxtris (Mar 18, 2021)

Anyone have one of these ? im up in the air between one of these and either waiting for a decent 12x36 to go up for sale...or save a few more bucks to buy a new one, the are up for 3699 at the moment....wich i believe is steep, but with out dollar the way it is i dont see much improvement in the future

wondering if that 24" centers is a big hinderance, and if it would be worth waiting for a 12x36, the extra bed length and a quick change gear box might be nice


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## CalgaryPT (Mar 18, 2021)

Do you mean CT089? I have one.


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## phaxtris (Mar 18, 2021)

yes, sorry CT089


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## phaxtris (Mar 18, 2021)

CalgaryPT said:


> Do you mean CT089? I have one.




And what are your thoughts on that machine ?


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## CalgaryPT (Mar 18, 2021)

I may not be the best person to ask. I've had mine for 15+ years, but don't use it much. In fact, I've never turned a thread on it. Having said this, I like it and the only complaint I have is that it throws the breaker at high speed. It's on a 15A line and routinely draws 11A, but can throw the breaker in its highest gears (which I never use, so again, no issue for me).

I use it for making lots of bushings, squaring round stock, facing shafts and plates, knurling, and prototype work on acetal. It's plenty beefy for me. I don't have a quick change toolpost on it. It didn't come with a threading dial, but they used to sell one for it as an option, which I have but never installed. I'm on the low end of the skill scale when it comes to machining, but I find it solid and maybe more than I needed. Very little slop in the cross slide and other forum members who have seen it said it feels solid. 

Not sure if that helps.


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## Tom Kitta (Mar 18, 2021)

I used to have that machine. It is an OK entry level lathe. A bit underpowered for it size. If oil is cold and you start it at 700 rpm it will throw motor breaker.

Also in I believe 700 rpm or next higher speed the motor is so weak that you can stop a 2" shaft by hand if it is packing say 100 grid sandpaper. 

Without QCGB threading is a pain - you have to play around with gears and stuff - maybe ok if you almost never thread or in production where you thread always the same thread. 

Fit an finish is very basic - costs are cut all over the place at any place. 

I do not think you will miss the extra 12" of space too much - I rarely exceed on my small lathe the 20" I have there. Of course if price difference is tiny I would pay a bit extra to have longer bed - why not.

QCGB is more valuable then the 12" of space imho. 

Its a basic functional lathe - certainly way, way better then any mini lathe out there. I would also take it over almost any Atlas.


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## CalgaryPT (Mar 18, 2021)

I'd take Tom's advice over my own. He obviously knows the machine better than me.


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## ShawnR (Mar 18, 2021)

I have not read the thread but here is another thread on it

https://www.cnczone.com/forums/south-bend-machinery/77651-cam-posts.html


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## ShawnR (Mar 18, 2021)

Looking at the CX709, it looks similar to my B2227L that i have had for about 20 years. I am currently looking to upgrade to get rid of gear changes for threading, as mentioned by @Tom Kitta and the length. As much as the 24" might sound fine, when working on longer pieces, I still find the tailstock in the way (mine is a 10x18) The travel of the tail stock center is not long enough to get it out of the way of the cross slide so I find I get jambed up between chuck and tail stock. I can  usually maniupulate the cross slide to make it work but it is a pita.  Just my 2 cents. If you only need short and wide, then the older version works great. 

Good luck! 
Cheers


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## phaxtris (Mar 19, 2021)

hey thanks for all the input guys, i think i will spend the extra bucks (or play the waiting game) on a 12x36, by the sounds of it i may be disappointed in the 110v unit, especially seeing as i have never used anything smaller.....that is  where my expectations of a lathe are at


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