# New Hobby Machinist in Edmonton



## Emery (Nov 6, 2020)

Hello Everyone, 

I just picked up my *first metal lathe* which is a Standard Modern 9 Utilathe Model A.

I am very happy with it so far and everything seems to work as intended!! 

I am brand new to the machining world but have experience in fabricating (welding mostly, Stick, Mig, Tig) and mechanics! 

Right now I am giving my new lathe a good once over clean and will going to do head stock oil change / flush here shortly. What else would you guys recommend checking/cleaning while I am at it? This was literally and “barn find”.

I am also diving into the world of feeds and speeds for HSS and Carbide Insert tooling....wow there is a lot to learn =)  *(Any cheat sheets out there?)* I’m sure it will be second nature shortly. 

Also, where does everyone buy their metal stock from in Edmonton? - metal super market....? 

Does anyone have the same model as me?! 

I chose 30w compressor non detergent crank case gear oil. (Closest thing I could find to the recommended “SAE 30”)  

Thanks for reading!


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## David_R8 (Nov 6, 2020)

Welcome Emery!
I believe @YotaBota also has a SM 9.


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## turner (Nov 6, 2020)

Welcome from Red Deer. I ventured into the Lathe world about 2 yrs ago....the same way you did. Bought a 12" x 24" Taiwan model, because it fit my space. My machine was very grubby, old farmers machine shop, 3 months later all new brgs/belts/etc...because I could. Thankfully for the grime though, no rust. Buy most of my tooling from  https://www.kbctools.ca/, usually shopping their flyer, can't get better service. IMO
Todd T.


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## YYCHM (Nov 6, 2020)

Welcome from Calgary. 

I have the same machine (as does @YotaBota and @Hruul ) and really like it.  What all did you get with your machine in terms of chucks, rests, plates, taper attachment, tooling, etc?  What did it cost you if you don't mind sharing.

Here is mine.... https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/9-sm-utilathe-restoration.1671/

For feeds and speeds I use this https://littlemachineshop.com/Reference/CuttingSpeeds.php

I found non-detergent SAE30 at a local automotive parts store, but I think you can get it at Canadian Tire as well.


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## YotaBota (Nov 6, 2020)

Another inmate to the asylum, lol, welcome Emery. I do have the same lathe as you, if you don't have the manual yet here is the link.
http://www.standardmodernlathes.com/resources.html

If you need a 4jaw chuck this anNOS Atlas chuck at a good price. I bought the 3 and 4 jaw and am happy with both.
http://www.hhrobertsmachinery.com/Accessories/Chucks/bench_lathe.html

I've had my SM9 for almost a year and so far am quite happy with it. I mostly just do goofing around but that's the way I learn.


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## Brent H (Nov 6, 2020)

Nice lathes guys!!!

I have a 10” Utilathe- a bit different but @YYCHobbyMachinist and @Chicken lights  and I partener’d up to take a broken up machine and salvage it to fix about 6 lathes .


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## Marc Moreau (Nov 6, 2020)

I have 10 Ultilathate  Love it.


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## DPittman (Nov 6, 2020)

Welcome.  Nice starter lathe!  I've read good things abou the quality of standard modern lathes.


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## Emery (Nov 6, 2020)

turner said:


> Welcome from Red Deer. I ventured into the Lathe world about 2 yrs ago....the same way you did. Bought a 12" x 24" Taiwan model, because it fit my space. My machine was very grubby, old farmers machine shop, 3 months later all new brgs/belts/etc...because I could. Thankfully for the grime though, no rust. Buy most of my tooling from  https://www.kbctools.ca/, usually shopping their flyer, can't get better service. IMO
> Todd T.



Thanks for the link Todd! Mine was the farm style... grease everywhere with minimal rust. Currently all the rusty parts are soaking in evaporust!


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## Emery (Nov 6, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Welcome from Calgary.
> 
> I have the same machine (as does @YotaBota and @Hruul ) and really like it.  What all did you get with your machine in terms of chucks, rests, plates, taper attachment, tooling, etc?  What did it cost you if you don't mind sharing.
> 
> ...



Hello Craig, Thanks for the great link for the Speeds and Feeds!

I may ask you a few question in the future about my machine. I still don’t know what a few things are there for. (Maybe they are not stock) 

I got a fair selection of gear (I think) I’ll attache a picture. I also have a 3 jaw and a QCTP.


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## Emery (Nov 6, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> Another inmate to the asylum, lol, welcome Emery. I do have the same lathe as you, if you don't have the manual yet here is the link.
> http://www.standardmodernlathes.com/resources.html
> 
> If you need a 4jaw chuck this anNOS Atlas chuck at a good price. I bought the 3 and 4 jaw and am happy with both.
> ...



Hey YotaBota! I am glad to hear your liking your machine. I am happy with mine so far. But I have a lot of learning to do!

Ill be play learning as well. What projects did you start with?


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## Emery (Nov 6, 2020)

Brent H said:


> Nice lathes guys!!!
> 
> I have a 10” Utilathe- a bit different but @YYCHobbyMachinist and @Chicken lights  and I partener’d up to take a broken up machine and salvage it to fix about 6 lathes .




Very cool! I love working on machines that are made to be worked on... rather than a cheap product just gets replaced.


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## Brent H (Nov 7, 2020)

@Emery : here is an epic tale of a man and his quest for restored SM9 Utilathe: https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/9-sm-utilathe-restoration.1671/


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## YotaBota (Nov 7, 2020)

Emery said:


> What projects did you start with?


I built the Harold Hall End Mill sharpener, a clamp-on hitch for the tractor, carriage stop and I'm working new hand wheels for the milling machine. There have been a bunch of bushings and threading as well so the Sterling will be a whole new level of precision for me.
Does your chuck come off okay or is it frozen? My machine came out of a school (of hard knocks) and the chuck was a b_tch to get off.


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## Sailor (Nov 7, 2020)

Welcome Emery.


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## YYCHM (Nov 7, 2020)

@YotaBota , @Hruul are your drive pulleys set up this way???








Mine are swapped.


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## YotaBota (Nov 7, 2020)

Mine are swapped from the picture as well. I don't think it will make any difference unless there would be a different load on the spindle bearing.


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## YYCHM (Nov 7, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> Mine are swapped form the picture as well. I don't think it will make any difference unless there would be a different load on the spindle bearing.



Isn't that going to make your face plate belt settings backwards?  Also, the two pulleys aren't the same size.  They aren't on my machine.


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## Emery (Nov 7, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> I built the Harold Hall End Mill sharpener, a clamp-on hitch for the tractor, carriage stop and I'm working new hand wheels for the milling machine. There have been a bunch of bushings and threading as well so the Sterling will be a whole new level of precision for me.
> Does your chuck come off okay or is it frozen? My machine came out of a school (of hard knocks) and the chuck was a b_tch to get off.




My chick I was very stuck! I tried a few tricks with no luck then kept trying... And managed to freed it up. I took apart the 4 jaw and 3 jaw today and cleaned them up.


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## Emery (Nov 7, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Isn't that going to make your face plate belt settings backwards?  Also, the two pulleys aren't the same size.  They aren't on my machine.



very interesting... The speeds are definitely accurate enough to seem correct. 50 RPM is in the correct spot and 1500 RPM is in the correct spot everything else seems “normal”.

can you guys pass along some measurements to make sure mine are not “custom farm”. 

If they just took off the top and put it on the bottom and vice versa without flipping the orientation the RPMs shouldn’t change.


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## YYCHM (Nov 7, 2020)

Emery said:


> very interesting... The speeds are definitely accurate enough to seem correct. 50 RPM is in the correct spot and 1500 RPM is in the correct spot everything else seems “normal”.
> 
> can you guys pass along some measurements to make sure mine are not “custom farm”.
> 
> If they just took off the top and put it on the bottom and vice versa without flipping the orientation the RPMs shouldn’t change.



In what belt position do you get max rpm?  Closest to the head stock or farthest from the head stock?  Have you checked spindle RPM with a tachometer?

BTB - Your machine is cleaning up nicely....


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## YotaBota (Nov 7, 2020)

IIRC the headstock pulley is a 6" 4 step and the motor pulley is a 5' 4 step. If the 6' is on the motor then your spindle speeds will be higher.
YYC - when you asked if the pulleys were swapped did you mean spindle pulley on the motor and motor pulley on the spindle?
Max rpm would be the small pulley on the headstock to the large motor pulley.


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## YYCHM (Nov 7, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> IIRC the headstock pulley is a 6" 4 step and the motor pulley is a 5' 4 step. If the 6' is on the motor then your spindle speeds will be higher.
> YYC - when you asked if the pulleys were swapped did you mean spindle pulley on the motor and motor pulley on the spindle?
> Max rpm would be the small pulley on the headstock to the large motor pulley.



Bingo.... that's what I was thinking, and an on-line pulley calculator proved that it can make a considerable difference overall.


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## YotaBota (Nov 7, 2020)

Okay, at first I thought you meant the pulley's being turned around on the shaft. On my machine the spindle pulley has the large pulley against the head stock.


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## YYCHM (Nov 7, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> Okay, at first I thought you meant the pulley's being turned around on the shaft. On my machine the spindle pulley has the large pulley against the head stock.



That's exactly what I meant by swapped.  The pulley being turned around on the shaft.  His high range must be with the belt closest to the head stock which to me contradicts the face plate.  Later it occurred to me that swapping the spindle pulley for the motor pulley would change things as well.


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## Emery (Nov 7, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> In what belt position do you get max rpm?  Closest to the head stock or farthest from the head stock?  Have you checked spindle RPM with a tachometer?
> 
> BTB - Your machine is cleaning up nicely....



Closest to the head stock. What about you?

And thank you very much! =) slowly but surly. There is some serious built up grease on this unit.


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## Emery (Nov 7, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> That's exactly what I meant by swapped.  The pulley being turned around on the shaft.  His high range must be with the belt closest to the head stock which to me contradicts the face plate.  Later it occurred to me that swapping the spindle pulley for the motor pulley would change things as well.



What do you use to check RPM?


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## Emery (Nov 7, 2020)

YYC & Yota... I have 4 1/4 inch pulley on my head stock and a 5 inch in my motor. Both with 4 steps.


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## YYCHM (Nov 7, 2020)

Emery said:


> Closest to the head stock. What about you?



Farthest from the head stock.  Take a look at your face plate speed chart, your pulleys are turned around.  Not that it matters as long as you realize it.  Now.... it your spindle and motor pulleys are swapped that's a whole different story.

I got a cheap optical tach from amazon to check my machines.


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## Emery (Nov 7, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Farthest from the head stock.  Take a look at your face plate speed chart, your pulleys are turned around.  Not that it matters as long as you realize it.  Now.... it your spindle and motor pulleys are swapped that's a whole different story.
> 
> I got a cheap optical tach from amazon to check my machines.



I could swap them easy enough but now I have the issue of my one pulling being the wrong size... Yota said his are 6” and 5”. Are yours that size as well?

Can you send me a picture of your orientation?


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## YYCHM (Nov 7, 2020)

Emery said:


> YYC & Yota... I have 4 1/4 inch pulley on my head stock and a 5 inch in my motor. Both with 4 steps.



Hmmmm….. I think those might be reversed as well.  Only a tachometer would prove things out.


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## YYCHM (Nov 7, 2020)

Emery said:


> I could swap them easy enough but now I have the issue of my one pulling being the wrong size... Yota said his are 6” and 5”. Are yours that size as well?
> 
> Can you send me a picture of your orientation?



Don't sweat it.  Your spindle RPM is probably well with in a usable range.








This is the usual orientation for the pulleys.  Note that the smaller one is on the motor.

I'll measure mine tomorrow and report.  Who knows if any of us has OEM stuff or the correct pulley set to begin with.


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## David_R8 (Nov 7, 2020)

@Emery there’s an iPhone app called “StrobeLight” it lets you change the flash rate of the phone flashlight till it matches a mark in a rotating object. 
I use it somewhat often but it works well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Emery (Nov 7, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Don't sweat it.  Your spindle RPM is probably well with in a usable range.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks YYC, I will also do some calculations tomorrow for my RPM


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## YotaBota (Nov 7, 2020)

I'll measure my pulleys in the morning just to be sure. The Manual list the pulleys as a 64 and a 54 which I think is 6" 4 step and 5" 4 step.


David_R8 said:


> there’s an iPhone app called “StrobeLight”


I'll check that out, thanks


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## YYCHM (Nov 7, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> I'll measure my pulleys in the morning just to be sure. The Manual list the pulleys as a 64 and a 54 which I think is 6" 4 step and 5" 4 step.
> 
> I'll check that out, thanks



You have a manual that lists the pulley sizes?


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## Emery (Nov 7, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> You have a manual that lists the pulley sizes?



No, I think Yota is referring to the regular manual. It’s list the part codes are SCA-64 and SCA-54.


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## RobinHood (Nov 7, 2020)

Here is the page from the manual with said part numbers.


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## David_R8 (Nov 7, 2020)

Emery said:


> No, I think Yota is referring to the regular manual. It’s list the part codes are SCA-64 and SCA-54.



Likely SCA-64 means 6”, 4 sheaves. Likewise 54 means 5” 4 sheaves. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Emery (Nov 7, 2020)

Okay,
I did some calculations.

With the stock 6 inch (spindle) and 5 inch (motor) @1750 RPM 

slowest speed in high range. (Should be 250 RPM) 

1750 RPM on the smallest side on the motor pulley (I am guessing it’s a 2”) Going to the 6” ring on the spindle pulley you have a 575 RPM going into the head stock. (20T gear)

The high rang gears then goes to a 48T to a 40T (which is your main spindle) 

575 x 0.416 (20T to 48T) x 1.2 (48T to 40T) 

= 287 RPM. Close enough...

When I calculate my ratio in the same slowest speed in the high range option which should be 250... mine equals 405 RPM


Looks like I might have to go shopping for some new pulleys.


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## YotaBota (Nov 8, 2020)

Emery said:


> No, I think Yota is referring to the regular manual. It’s list the part codes are SCA-64 and SCA-54.


Yes, I was referring to the SM manual, just left off the SCA from the part number. My pulleys measured out to 6" on the spindle and 5" on the motor.
I'm going to try the StrobeLight app to check the rpms and will let you know later.


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## YYCHM (Nov 8, 2020)

I pulled my pulleys this morning.

The motor pulley is marked 5-4-3-2 and the spindle pulley is marked 6-5-4-3 which corresponded to their over all diameters.

Using the tach I got 65-105-180- 290 in low range and 300-570-870-1400 in high range.  
The face plate is marked 50-100-180-300 in low range and 250-500-900-1500 in high range.
So close enough.


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## YotaBota (Nov 8, 2020)

Check your motor rpm IIRC it should be 1725. If the motor isn't reading 1725 with the belt on then that will give you a different reading as well.


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## YYCHM (Nov 8, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> Check your motor rpm IIRC it should be 1725. If the motor isn't reading 1725 with the belt on then that will give you a different reading as well.



Tach indicates 1785 on the motor pulley.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07QVLRHMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$13 when I got it.  Not sure how much I actually trust it.  Takes some fiddling to get the readings to settle down.


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## YotaBota (Nov 8, 2020)

Using the StobeLight app here's what I read;
Rated          Actual
50 -             to slow for the app
100            100
180            177
300            275
250            235
500            500
900            878
1500          1505
The motor with the belt on 500rpm config
1725          1790

Even with the motor running high the spindle speeds are close enough.


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## Emery (Nov 8, 2020)

Okay, 

I did the strobe light test as well.... (so cool!!!) 
selected speed - actual speed 
50 - 105
100-254
180-415
300-702
250-521
500-1100
900-1926
1500- I didn’t want to run for a long time to figure out RPM but by my calculations it would be around 3450.

Soooo... I am quite fast. 
Anyone know where to buy these 4 step pulleys? 
Edmonton preferred but I’ll buy online if not =) 

Thanks for all your help guys! I would have struggled with RPM for a long time before i figured this out!!

(picture of my girl going back together)


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## YYCHM (Nov 8, 2020)

WOW That lathe is looking really good.  Looking at the items you got with it you did well.

Threading dial indicator
Steady rest (home made, not OEM)
Follower rest
Face plate
3 and 4 jaw chucks

The stand is a nice to have for sure.

Do you have the taper attachment?

Going to share what you paid for it?

Put your 5" pulley on the spindle and 4-1/4 pulley on the motor and test it again.  That should swing you back to reality.  If that ends up close, a 4" on the motor and 5" on the spindle should be the same as a 5" and 6" set (I think???).  I can help you with a 4".

BTB - I have some parts, mostly apron stuff if you find you need to replace something.

Craig


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## Emery (Nov 8, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> WOW That lathe is looking really good.  Looking at the items you got with it you did well.
> 
> Threading dial indicator
> Steady rest (home made, not OEM)
> ...



Thanks Craig! I’ll keep you in mind if I need parts. (I need a pulley hahahah) It’s GREAT to hear that you think I got a good machine. No taper attachment though... that would be very cool to have. 

I’ll swap the pulleys and see what RPM’s I run. I’ll amp make the fastest setting away from the machine. I’ll think about you 4” option. Is it a 4-3-2-1? 

I just measured and I do have the stock 5-4-3-2 pulley. So I need to replace my 4 1/4 inch with a 6-5-4-3. 5/8 shaft. 

What RPM does you Electirc motor put out? I thought this was supposed to have a half horsepower motor on it but mine is 3/4 @ 1725 RPM.

Of course I can share the price. I picked it up for $900 and payed the farmer another $50 bucks to load it with his picker truck. I think that was good price... =)


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## YYCHM (Nov 8, 2020)

Mine came with a 3/4 @ 1725 but I ended up replacing it with a 1/2 @ 1725 due to a vibration issue.

You got a good deal considering the stuff you got with it.  I paid $950 for mine with no stand.  It was missing the threading dial indicator, follower rest, dog drive plate, face plate, 4J, and the gears required to delete the height extensions.  It did come with 98% of the taper attachment. 

https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/9-unilathe-for-sale.1652/


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## YotaBota (Nov 8, 2020)

I think you did good with the machine as well, nice cabinet, it looks like a factory follow rest and a big faceplate also. That is a huge 4 jaw chuck, be careful opening up the jaws that you don't whack the ways with a jaw.

YYC - do you know where the pulleys are from the donor lathe?

I do most of my turning between 500 and 900, parting at 250 and threading at 100 so your still very usable as far as speeds go, keep your chart handy for reference.


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## YYCHM (Nov 8, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> I think you did good with the machine as well, nice cabinet, it looks like a factory follow rest and a big faceplate also. That is a huge 4 jaw chuck, be careful opening up the jaws that you don't whack the ways with a jaw.
> 
> YYC - do you know where the pulleys are from the donor lathe?
> 
> I do most of my turning between 500 and 900, parting at 250 and threading at 100 so your still very usable as far as speeds go, keep your chart handy for reference.



You turn about the same speeds I do LOL.

I got the pulleys from the donor lathe and used the motor pulley to replace my pooched motor pulley (don't run those things without the keys installed!).  The headstock pulley was a 3 step, why I don't know, I gave it to @johnnielsen for a wood lathe project he had.


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## Emery (Nov 8, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Mine came with a 3/4 @ 1725 but I ended up replacing it with a 1/2 @ 1725 due to a vibration issue.
> 
> You got a good deal considering the stuff you got with it.  I paid $950 for mine with no stand.  It was missing the threading dial indicator, follower rest, dog drive plate, face plate, 4J, and the gears required to delete the height extensions.  It did come with 98% of the taper attachment.
> 
> https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/9-unilathe-for-sale.1652/



Mine seems to make more noise in low range than higher range especially in the two fastest settings. But I think this is because both those settings are exceeding the low range RPM.


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## Emery (Nov 8, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> I think you did good with the machine as well, nice cabinet, it looks like a factory follow rest and a big faceplate also. That is a huge 4 jaw chuck, be careful opening up the jaws that you don't whack the ways with a jaw.
> 
> YYC - do you know where the pulleys are from the donor lathe?
> 
> I do most of my turning between 500 and 900, parting at 250 and threading at 100 so your still very usable as far as speeds go, keep your chart handy for reference.



Thanks for the advice on speeds. I’ll add it to my book of information. I’m going to start actually using the lathe this week. Now that’s it’s cleaned up!

Thanks for the advice on opening up the 4 jaw as well! I just checked how much I can open it and it will definitely hit the ways. It had to be almost all the way open but good to know!


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## Emery (Nov 8, 2020)

Here are some fun before and after pictures!


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## David_R8 (Nov 8, 2020)

Emery said:


> Here are some fun before and after pictures!



Great work Emery!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Hruul (Nov 9, 2020)

Welcome Emery and great work cleaning up the lathe.


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## YotaBota (Nov 9, 2020)

+1


Emery said:


> Mine seems to make more noise in low range than higher range especially in the two fastest settings. But I think this is because both those settings are exceeding the low range RPM.


Your 180&300 are running way over speed which is probably why the are noisy.
To help protect the ways in case of an oops, I have a board that covers the ways when changing chucks. It's just a piece of plywood with a 2x4 ( cut to fit in between the ways) screwed to the bottom but helps. That's if it will fit under the 4 jaw, lol. BTW, what is the dia of the 4 jaw?


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## Emery (Nov 10, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> +1
> 
> Your 180&300 are running way over speed which is probably why the are noisy.
> To help protect the ways in case of an oops, I have a board that covers the ways when changing chucks. It's just a piece of plywood with a 2x4 ( cut to fit in between the ways) screwed to the bottom but helps. That's if it will fit under the 4 jaw, lol. BTW, what is the dia of the 4 jaw?



Hey Yota, I agree I’m not running 180, 300, 1500 right now. David helped me find a pulley so I’m going to order that right away and swap out the four-inch pulley.

As for the 4 jaw it’s an 8 inch! It’s quite large but it works great! 

I did my first thread today also... picture below.


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## YYCHM (Nov 10, 2020)

8" 4 Jaw   And here I thought my 6" looked big.

Where did you find a pulley?  

Nice work with the threading.


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## YotaBota (Nov 10, 2020)

The right pulley will make life a lot easier, thanks David.
Let's see,,, 9" lathe,,,,8" chuck,, you've still got room for a bigger one lol
Did you do the "Holy Sh_t it works" happy dance after the thread. As long as you don't get the cross slide and compound movement mixed up threading is easy....ish
Well done.


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## Hruul (Nov 10, 2020)

Congrats on the first thread! I still have not done one with mine, not by single point at least.  You're flying right along.


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## Emery (Nov 10, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> 8" 4 Jaw   And here I thought my 6" looked big.
> 
> Where did you find a pulley?
> 
> Nice work with the threading.



“Bigger is Better in Berta” hahah I think it might me a little bit big but... I am happy to have a big 4 jaw over no 4 jaw.
I can watch out for a smaller used one online!


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## Emery (Nov 10, 2020)

Hruul said:


> Congrats on the first thread! I still have not done one with mine, not by single point at least.  You're flying right along.



Thank you! I love learning new things


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## Emery (Nov 10, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> The right pulley will make life a lot easier, thanks David.
> Let's see,,, 9" lathe,,,,8" chuck,, you've still got room for a bigger one lol
> Did you do the "Holy Sh_t it works" happy dance after the thread. As long as you don't get the cross slide and compound movement mixed up threading is easy....ish
> Well done.



Thank you! And yes I did do a little happy dance!! I couldn’t believe it worked the first time.


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## Sailor (Nov 10, 2020)

Congrats on the threading. Have any of you tried threading like this. . .




it’s in Russian but just watch when he starts threading.


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## Emery (Nov 10, 2020)

Sailor said:


> Congrats on the threading. Have any of you tried threading like this. . .
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Very cool! Would you just match the TPI off the tap to the gearbox TPI?


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## Sailor (Nov 10, 2020)

I’m guessing, wish I could understand him. Very interesting though. Maybe some of the other guys will shed some knowledge on this.


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## RobinHood (Nov 11, 2020)

It almost looks like he is using the tap as a thread mill. He for sure engaged the carriage in the corresponding lead using the QCGB, gets to the end of the cut, stops the lathe instantly and reverses the spindle to drive the carriage back to the start. He also shows how easy it is to pick up the thread again after a test fit. He cut the tap’s tip off, presumably to get rid of the partial lead in threads? Not sure if that is a tapered plug he made and he did not have a taper attachment? Instead he used the tap at the correct taper angle - would work for sure.


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## PeterT (Nov 11, 2020)

I guess on the plus side he might be getting some thread cleanup cutting action with more teeth engaged. It might help with odd thread size or specific materials? But the thing is your lathe must have corresponding thread traversing TPI or MOD gear setup anyways, no different than single point SP threading

But I also see disadvantages:

- Unlike SP threading, you cannot disengage the threading with the tool tip safely in a thread relief groove because all the tap tool teeth are engaged. He therefore has no choice but to 1) quickly retract the tool back from cutting and clear of any enlarged boss then 2) disengage threading. If he messes this up just once, the entire thread section will be wiped out kaput whereas SP maybe just a fraction of the innermost thread.

- I have to think most of the cutting action is occurring on the very first tooth of the tap which he has probably ground flat. Aside from setup fiddling around & preventing the tap from turning, its probably not as strong a tool cross section as a dedicated vee form SP thread cutting tool. The tap will flex because its cantilevered & thinner cross sectional area, its not supported by the hole wall like in normal tapping mode

- he can only go from TS to HS direction, not reverse HS to TS direction like a SP tool starting out in a relief groove. So for the pucker factor combination of coarse thread (=fast traverse) + big shoulder you don't want to crash into, I'd take the HS to TS mode, therefore another point in favor of SP tool

Not taking away from alternate ways of doing things but I don't quite get the logic. I've heard of people power threading conventional internal threads on a tool post for specific applications, but that's not what he is doing here.


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## RobinHood (Nov 11, 2020)

Very good points, @PeterT . We need someone that can translate from Russian....


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## Sailor (Nov 11, 2020)

I like this site, you guys jump right in and add great insight. I only posted it cause it was just so interesting. Thanks.


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## Brent H (Nov 11, 2020)

I think the guy is threading a tapered pipe plug and just using a pipe thread tap as his cutter.  This way he only has to cut the OD to the outside diameter of what a (say 3/8”) pipe would be and then run the tap at the right depth and straight  such that the first tooth is actually taking less cut and the progressive teeth make deeper threads and taper the plug.  
The taper is pretty shallow and would be easy to achieve using this method.  Sort of like using a pipe threader (typically 3- 4 dies) but just using one of the dies and feeding at the correct TPI.


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## YYCHM (Nov 11, 2020)

Brent H said:


> I think the guy is threading a tapered pipe plug.



I agree, that's the impression I got to.  Why would anyone do that to make a standard non tapered thread.


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## Emery (Nov 12, 2020)

Yota & YYC, 

I family found a 6 inch pulley in Calgary. Can you guys confirm that your dimensions are the same? 

I’ll have to get the 6,5,4,3,2 five step pulley and cut off the 2” because the four step one is not available.

All said and done it would be $80 Canadian but I can’t find a different option anywhere else... 

Picture attached.

Thanks,


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## David_R8 (Nov 12, 2020)

Emery said:


> Yota & YYC,
> 
> I family found a 6 inch pulley in Calgary. Can you guys confirm that your dimensions are the same?
> 
> ...


Well done Emery.
Can I ask where you found that?
I may replace the pulley on my mill since I had to make a bore adapter and I'd rather have a pulley with the correct bore size


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## Emery (Nov 12, 2020)

David_R8 said:


> Well done Emery.
> Can I ask where you found that?
> I may replace the pulley on my mill since I had to make a bore adapter and I'd rather have a pulley with the correct bore size




Paul Croxford with Applied Industrial (587) 986-0821looked it up for me! =)


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## YYCHM (Nov 12, 2020)

Emery said:


> Yota & YYC,
> 
> I family found a 6 inch pulley in Calgary. Can you guys confirm that your dimensions are the same?
> 
> ...



Well..... before jumping the gun.  What speeds did you get with the pulleys swapped?  $80 is a lot for something you have to butcher to make work.


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## YotaBota (Nov 12, 2020)

On my machine the pulleys are 3"/4"/5"/6". Are they giving the 5 step for the price of the 4 step? It should be easy enough to slice off the 2" section. For all the poking fun at that 8" chuck it is going to come in handy for this, lol. 
I don't know how critical the location of the set screw is, it should still be okay on the 3" pulley vice the 4" pulley.


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## YYCHM (Nov 12, 2020)

Good point about the set screw location!


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## Brent H (Nov 12, 2020)

Just throwing this out to you RPM guys - my 10” Utilathe has a 3 phase motor and it is rated for 1 Hp @1725 RPM with voltages 208-220.  We are running about 235 ish volts so I decided to check the RPM.  
The lathe was running about 25 RPM fast - I adjusted the VFD down to 57.4 Hz to yield a motor RPM of 1725 ish - and all my speeds are bang on.  
The speed control on your 9” Utilathe appears to have a 5:1 gearing reduction so if your pulleys are correct you “should” be taking 1725 RPM and then reducing it to 1500, 900, 500 and 250 RPM.  Using the gearbox set to low speed you can reduce those speeds by a factor of 5 to 300, 180, 100 and 50 RPM.  

To get the correct speeds your motor pulley would be a 4, 3, 2 and 1”.  The pulley on the lathe spindle will be something like 7, 6-3/4, 5-3/4 and 4-5/8”.   This will give you pretty much the speeds as indicated.   Examples:
 1/7 x 1725 = 246 
2/6.75 x 1725= 511
3/5.75 x1725 = 900
4/4.625 x 1725 = 1491 

The pulleys on my machine were cast iron - it would be interesting to find an Original 9 or someone that can clarify all the pulley measurements so the correct ratio is achieved.


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## Emery (Nov 12, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Well..... before jumping the gun.  What speeds did you get with the pulleys swapped?  $80 is a lot for something you have to butcher to make work.



I did some calculations and if the larger pulley is put on the motor side it will up my RPM’s even more. 

I would prefer to buy a perfect replacement but that does not seem to be an option and I’d like to have a little bit more range from my gearbox in the 300 - 400 RPM area


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## Emery (Nov 12, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> On my machine the pulleys are 3"/4"/5"/6". Are they giving the 5 step for the price of the 4 step? It should be easy enough to slice off the 2" section. For all the poking fun at that 8" chuck it is going to come in handy for this, lol.
> I don't know how critical the location of the set screw is, it should still be okay on the 3" pulley vice the 4" pulley.




Thank Yota, i’m not exactly sure why I was quoted a different price than the sheet I was sent. Maybe he felt bad for me having to get the 5 step hahah. 

I will double check that the set screw location works thanks! 

And just to double check that my lathe has one “stock” pulley the motor pulley on you machine is 5,4,3,2... right?


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## YYCHM (Nov 12, 2020)

Emery said:


> I did some calculations and if the larger pulley is put on the motor side it will up my RPM’s even more.



Try it and measure it.  You're going to end up with the small pulley on the motor in the end.


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## Emery (Nov 12, 2020)

Brent H said:


> Just throwing this out to you RPM guys - my 10” Utilathe has a 3 phase motor and it is rated for 1 Hp @1725 RPM with voltages 208-220.  We are running about 235 ish volts so I decided to check the RPM.
> The lathe was running about 25 RPM fast - I adjusted the VFD down to 57.4 Hz to yield a motor RPM of 1725 ish - and all my speeds are bang on.
> The speed control on your 9” Utilathe appears to have a 5:1 gearing reduction so if your pulleys are correct you “should” be taking 1725 RPM and then reducing it to 1500, 900, 500 and 250 RPM.  Using the gearbox set to low speed you can reduce those speeds by a factor of 5 to 300, 180, 100 and 50 RPM.
> 
> ...



Very good thoughts! But the motor pulley is not a 4 inch it’s a 5 inch (5,4,3,2)

But in your calculations you’re not taking into acount the head stock gearing for low and high range. If the spindle pulley was driving the spindle directly you would be spot on! 

I think this is my best options to get back into the general RPM range.


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## Emery (Nov 12, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Try it and measure it.  You're going to end up with the small pulley on the motor in the end.



I guess it does not hurt to try.


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## Brent H (Nov 13, 2020)

Hi Emery,

If you look at my post again you will note that I mentioned the 5:1 gear reduction you get when you switch from High Speed to Low Speed.  Well I did not include the High speed reduction but here is a look inside the gearbox of the Utilathe (9 inch).  When I wrote the first post I had reduced the inner gear reductions to a 5:1 but this pic should explain things better.  




The 2:1 high speed reduction allows for the motor pulley to be larger than the 4321 and make it a 5432.  So using @YYCHobbyMachinist pulley specs with the 6,5,4,3 on the spindle drive: that pulley drives a 20 Tooth gear connected to a 48 Tooth gear which in turn will drive the #16 40 Tooth gear when you are in high speed.  the gear reduction is 2:1  so with a 1725 RPM motor you will get the speeds I put up in the top corner reduced to the high speed output: 575/2 = 287.5 , 1035/2 = 517.5, 1725/2= 862.5 and finally 2875/2 = 1437.5 RPM and the Slow speed will be the 15 tooth driving the big bull gear (number of teeth not listed but should be 63 (perhaps 62) to give you your slow speeds.  The gear ratio is not a perfect 10:1 but around 10.08 to 1 so there will be a bit of RPM variance but close to 57.5, 103.5, 172.5 and 287.5 for your slow speeds.

Anyway, if you are seeking perfection the only way would be to make a custom pulley to get the ratio as close as possible.  As @YYCHobbyMachinist stated "close enough"  with a 6, 5, 4, 3...and that could be the original........


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## YotaBota (Nov 13, 2020)

Emery - the motor pulley is 5432. As a hobby machinist I don't think the speeds being exact is anywhere close to being an issue. As is being said "close enough".
BrentH- you must be on a boat out in the middle of nowhere to spend so much time on pulley calculations,  lol


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## Brent H (Nov 13, 2020)

Just thinking over a morning tea.


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## YYCHM (Nov 13, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> Emery - the motor pulley is 5432. As a hobby machinist I don't think the speeds being exact is anywhere close to being an issue. As is being said "close enough".
> BrentH- you must be on a boat out in the middle of nowhere to spend so much time on pulley calculations,  lol



And I'm still of the opinion that he could put the 5432 on the headstock and a 4321 on the motor and have the same thing.  What I'm not sure of is how that would affect torque.

But I do appreciate Emery's desire to return the machine back to factory configuration.


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## YotaBota (Nov 13, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> And I'm still of the opinion that he could put the 5432 on the headstock and a 4321 on the motor and have the same thing


Let's ask the pulley master, BrentH - will the speeds change by reducing the pulleys proportionally?


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## Brent H (Nov 13, 2020)

Indeed - but your best bet is to keep the pulley diameter larger so more of the belt is in contact.  The 5432 is fitted to the motor.  The 2 will be closet the motor.  Then it’s a matter of what you want in the end for speed.  If you had a perfect 1725 rpm motor and you were driving the 6” pulley 2/6 x 1725 = 575. In  low speed 575/10.08 = 57 RPM 

but say now you take a 1-3/4 / 5-3/4 x 1725 = 525 RPM 

so this was part of my question - were the “original pulleys” dialed in to match the gear ratio’s to give you those speeds indicated on the machine?  Or was close enough the mission?  

if you go back to my original post I changed the drive pulley to a 4321 - well that would be “impractical” with a 1” as it may be too small for the belt to get a good grip.  So you go 5432 as your drive then mess about with the spindle pulley.  

in the total ideal world you would want that fist RPM to be 500 so you would get 250 and 50 with the gear reduction. That would take pulleys close to 2” and 7” giving an RPM of 492.  The problem comes as the next ratio is not good for a 7654

3/6 x 1725 = 862 and is a bit slow.  A better match would be 5-1/8” so you would get 3/5.125x 1725 = 1009.  

but maybe you have a different combo on the drive pulley like 2, 3.5, etc. 

here is a website to play with: https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng.aspx
 Here is another - https://geargenerator.com/#200,200,...0,0,0,0,0,2,0,60,5,12,20,0,1,0,0,0,0,0,3,-515

You can  set up lots of ratios and see what can happen!  

off to the beer store —- hahahaha!!


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## YotaBota (Nov 13, 2020)

I need to find a better tach, the strobe doesn't seem to work well enough for me.
BrentH - thanks obiwan kapulley


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## Brent H (Nov 13, 2020)

@YotaBota : keep up your studies young pulleywan- the force is strong in you


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## YYCHM (Nov 13, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> I need to find a better tach, the strobe doesn't seem to work well enough for me.



Can't be any worse than my $13 amazon find....  This thing is not the greatest.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07QVLRHMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## YotaBota (Nov 13, 2020)

Stewart Warner has a really nice hand held mechanical tach but my machine is close enough I don't need to spend $200.


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## YYCHM (Nov 17, 2020)

Here is your 3-4-5-6 pulley....

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/CONGRESS-TO...803040?hash=item217d66b220:g:R0YAAOSwOGdfVlkg

A little pricy for used.


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## YYCHM (Nov 17, 2020)

Emery said:


> Yota & YYC,
> 
> I family found a 6 inch pulley in Calgary. Can you guys confirm that your dimensions are the same?
> 
> ...




Are these pulleys you found through  Applied Industrial alloy or cast iron?


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## Emery (Dec 8, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Mine came with a 3/4 @ 1725 but I ended up replacing it with a 1/2 @ 1725 due to a vibration issue.
> 
> You got a good deal considering the stuff you got with it.  I paid $950 for mine with no stand.  It was missing the threading dial indicator, follower rest, dog drive plate, face plate, 4J, and the gears required to delete the height extensions.  It did come with 98% of the taper attachment.
> 
> https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/9-unilathe-for-sale.1652/



so I tried swapping around the pulleys like you said. ( 5-4-3-2 on the spindle 4/ 1/4-3-2-1 on the motor.) The motor pulley was very stuck a couple failed attempts to get it to budge. 

My RPMs got a lot closer to what they should be! 

RPM was before 
50 - 105
100-254
180-415
300-702
250-521
500-1100
900-1926

RPM is now:
50 - 55
100-125
180-200
300-305
250-272
500-618
900-926
1500- 1640

but I’m still going to pick up the proper pulley just so I can get it a little closer to the actual face plate markings. Especially on the higher speeds.

But... With the switched pulleys I’m getting a vibration issue at what should be 250 RPM. I remember you mentioning that you swapped your 3/4 hp motor for 1/2 hp because of this.

what speed did you have a vibration on?
Also, what length is your V belt?

 Mines is a 270 but the motor mount touches the metal base tray on the high speeds. (Probably because one of my pulleys is to small)


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## Emery (Dec 8, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Are these pulleys you found through  Applied Industrial alloy or cast iron?



the pulley I’m looking at is Cast Iron.


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## YYCHM (Dec 8, 2020)

That's better!!!  I'd use it as is and keep looking for a suitable aluminium pulley replacement or better yet make one.

The belt I'm using is 1/2" X 30"

The vibration issue I had was due to motor vibration and it bouncing the motor mount. The 1/2 HP I replaced it with just spun a lot smoother.  With the motor tensioning the belt by weight alone it may have something to do with the 3/4 HP motor being a lot heavier.  When I relieved the belt tension the vibration diminished.  It's still a bit of mystery.


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## YotaBota (Dec 8, 2020)

Those are better numbers, at least now you won't be over speeding anywhere.


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## Emery (Dec 8, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> That's better!!!  I'd use it as is and keep looking for a suitable aluminium pulley replacement or better yet make one.
> 
> The belt I'm using is 1/2" X 30"
> 
> The vibration issue I had was due to motor vibration and it bouncing the motor mount. The 1/2 HP I replaced it with just spun a lot smoother.  With the motor tensioning the belt by weight alone it may have something to do with the 3/4 HP motor being a lot heavier.  It's still a bit of mystery.



Did the vibration happen at most speeds? Or only one like mine? I think mines due to belt tension somehow.... maybe the motor.


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## YYCHM (Dec 8, 2020)

Emery said:


> Did the vibration happen at most speeds? Or only one like mine? I think mines due to belt tension somehow.... maybe the motor.



Mine seemed to vibrate more at low RPM, but it was hard to tell.  It didn't seem to affect turning quality, it was just noticeable. You might have one pulley sheave that's not quite concentric, they aren't high end pulleys.


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## Emery (Dec 8, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Mine seemed to vibrate more at low RPM, but it was hard to tell.  It didn't seem to affect turning quality, it was just noticeable. You might have one pulley sheave that's not quite concentric, they aren't high end pulleys.



it just seems odd that I didn’t have a vibration before and then when I Swapped the top pulley for the bottom pulley the vibration started. Leaving me to believe it’s not a pulley shape issue  I could switch them back tomorrow and see if it stops vibrating


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## YYCHM (Dec 8, 2020)

Emery said:


> it just seems odd that I didn’t have a vibration before and then when I Swapped the top pulley for the bottom pulley the vibration started. Leaving me to believe it’s not a pulley shape issue  I could switch them back tomorrow and see if it stops vibrating



How bad is the vibration?  Also, what condition is your belt in?


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## David_R8 (Dec 8, 2020)

In all likelihood the motor pulley might have been slightly out of round and reduced belt tension meant less of the vibration was transmitted.
I had a Rockwell contractor style table saw that had a similar issue. with the full weight of the motor on the belt there was lots of vibration. I connected a turn buckle to the motor so I could lift it slightly and reduce belt tension and the vibration went away.


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## Emery (Dec 8, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> How bad is the vibration?  Also, what condition is your belt in?


Belt looks to be in good condition. No cracks. Vibration is minor. But still annoying


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## YYCHM (Dec 8, 2020)

David_R8 said:


> In all likelihood the motor pulley might have been slightly out of round and reduced belt tension meant less of the vibration was transmitted.
> I had a Rockwell contractor style table saw that had a similar issue. with the full weight of the motor on the belt there was lots of vibration. I connected a turn buckle to the motor so I could lift it slightly and reduce belt tension and the vibration went away.



I think you're exactly right about that David.  With the 3/4 HP I made a wood block with a piece of mouse pad on top that raised the motor ever so much and the vibration went way down.  The 1/2 HP being lighter eliminated the block.


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## Emery (Dec 8, 2020)

David_R8 said:


> In all likelihood the motor pulley might have been slightly out of round and reduced belt tension meant less of the vibration was transmitted.
> I had a Rockwell contractor style table saw that had a similar issue. with the full weight of the motor on the belt there was lots of vibration. I connected a turn buckle to the motor so I could lift it slightly and reduce belt tension and the vibration went away.



That’s exactly what I was thinking. I just took a half inch piece of wood and stuck it under the motor and the vibration goes away. The problem is when I switch gears too much slack get in the pulley... So either need to get a lighter motor or figure out some type of I turnbuckle. It needs to be easily adjustable though.


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## YYCHM (Dec 8, 2020)

Emery said:


> That’s exactly what I was thinking. I just took a half inch piece of wood and stuck it under the motor and the vibration goes away. The problem is when I switch gears too much slack get in the pulley... So either need to get a lighter motor or figure out some type of I turnbuckle. It needs to be easily adjustable though.



Does your machine have the spring tensioner on the motor mount plate?  A shorter belt might solve your slack issue.


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## Emery (Dec 8, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Does your machine have the spring tensioner on the motor mount plate?  A shorter belt might solve your slack issue.



It does have a spring tensioner but that applies more tension to the belt. I took it all the way off and it did not fix the problem.

I would need a spring lifting up on the motor.

I don’t think a block is the answer because each pulley requires a slightly different belt length. It ranges about 1/2 of an inch between all the speeds


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## YYCHM (Dec 8, 2020)

Emery said:


> It does have a spring tensioner but that applies more tension to the belt. I took it all the way off and it did not fix the problem.
> 
> I would need a spring lifting up on the motor.
> 
> I don’t think a block is the answer because each pulley requires a slightly different belt length. It ranges about 1/2 of an inch between all the speeds



Ya, I started without a spring tensioner and then inherited a mount that had one (it's a long story).  Have since removed the spring all together.  A shorter belt should solve your problem for now?


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## Emery (Dec 13, 2020)

@YotaBota what length is your V belt going from your motor to your spindle? 

@YYCHobbyMachinist you said your was 30 right?

I think mine is to long.... but it’s a 27”


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## YYCHM (Dec 13, 2020)

30"..... but I have the proper factory size pulleys.


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## Emery (Dec 13, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> 30"..... but I have the proper factory size pulleys.




Something seems off to me. With a 27 inch belt my motor just touches the worksurface surface. If I had a 30 inch belt it would be way too big.

One of my pulleys is roughly an inch small but it shouldn’t make that much of a difference.


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## YYCHM (Dec 13, 2020)

Emery said:


> Something seems off to me. With a 27 inch belt my motor just touches the worksurface surface. If I had a 30 inch belt it would be way too big.
> 
> One of my pulleys is roughly an inch small but it shouldn’t make that much of a difference.



Both of your pulleys are undersize are they not?


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## Emery (Dec 14, 2020)

YYCHobbyMachinist said:


> Both of your pulleys are undersize are they not?



no just my spindle pulley is small.

my motor pulley is stock sizing 5-4-3-2

(The spindle is 4 1/4-3-2-1 “ish”)


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## YYCHM (Dec 14, 2020)

@Hruul , @YotaBota what size V belt are you guys running on your Utilathes?


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## YotaBota (Dec 14, 2020)

Morning folks,
I'm using a link belt so the length is made to fit. The belts aren't cheap but they're always the right length.
When you get the correct spindle pulley the belt tension should be the same for all speeds.
I've got a 1/2hp motor on my machine and there is no vibration to speak of.


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## Hruul (Dec 15, 2020)

I also have a 1/2hp motor and run a link belt.  I noticed that when I left the motor hanging off the belt for a week or two it stretched the belt enough that the motor was starting to touch the chip tray.  So I removed a link and that fixed that problem.  I now remove the belt and hang on the wall when I am done.  Safer if someone bumps the start button on the front of the stand as well.


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## YYCHM (Dec 15, 2020)

Link Belt.... Interesting...… "where they make the most difference is in the elimination of vibration. All vibration is absorbed in the belt linkage"

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...MIu8L25bTQ7QIVtSitBh11ZAnQEAQYASABEgIg3vD_BwE

30" worth would come to close to $50.

May have to take a close look at this.


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## YotaBota (Dec 15, 2020)

I got my belts at KMS, https://www.kmstools.com/a-1-2-link-belt-per-foot-134582, I used the "A" size belt as it was left over from another project.
When I'm done for the day I take the tension off the belt as well. I also remove the chuck, put all the controls to neutral and put the cover on but that's just me. I do woodworking as well in the same shop so I try to keep the sawdust of the machines.


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## Johnwa (Dec 15, 2020)

Amazon is a bit cheaper but it looks like a minimum of 5’.


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## YotaBota (Dec 15, 2020)

Amazon is selling 5' for the price of 3' at KMS. The advantage to buying local is you know what your getting and you can have it now. The link belts are a bit noisier than one piece belts being able to get the size just right without having to buy another belt is so convenient.


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## David_R8 (Dec 15, 2020)

I’m thinking about swapping out the B size belts on my mill for link belts. I’m fairly confident the originals are what’s on there now. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## YotaBota (Dec 15, 2020)

The "B" size is what is supposed to be on the SM but I had the smaller belt on hand and it works fine for what I'm doing. I don't seem to lose any grip and I'd rather have the belt slip than break something.
My mill has the "B" belts as well.


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## Hruul (Dec 15, 2020)

I have the red belt from Lee Valley, bought it for my small drill press and then sold it before I ever used the belt.  Just bought the 4' length to get the lower price.

I also cover my lathe with a moving blanket as I do woodworking in the same space (garage).  If I am not using the lathe for a while I remove the chuck and put on a faceplate (loosely) to protect the threads.  I have to work on making a thread on thread protector at some point.  Or get one 3D printed.  Don't have a printer myself but a friend has one.


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## YotaBota (Dec 15, 2020)

Hruul said:


> I have to work on making a thread on thread protector at some point.


Here's an idea for you, when I was practicing threading I bought a couple of 1 1/2" to 1" plastic plumbing reducers and made a thread protector. The reducer is the perfect size for 1 1/2 internal threads and if you screw up it's cheap to replace.


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## Hruul (Dec 15, 2020)

YotaBota said:


> Here's an idea for you, when I was practicing threading I bought a couple of 1 1/2" to 1" plastic plumbing reducers and made a thread protector. The reducer is the perfect size for 1 1/2 internal threads and if you screw up it's cheap to replace.


Great Idea thank you.  Maybe I will try some threading over the christmas holidays.


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## ken holliday (Dec 17, 2020)

Emery said:


> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I just picked up my *first metal lathe* which is a Standard Modern 9 Utilathe Model A.
> 
> ...


Hi from regina,  I inherited that same lathe, had zero experience and ma learning by making mistakes, see my latest thread re drive box sticking problem,    i never ever took mine apart or did mainainance just now found a need and took time to find handbook online.   wish i had tacher here in our queen city


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## YotaBota (Dec 17, 2020)

If you go to the SM web site, http://www.standardmodernlathes.com/, and look under owner resources you can download the manual from there.


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## YYCHM (Dec 19, 2020)

Ha..... these things do run a bit smoother... Got figure?  Amazon - 5' for $36.

Things get even better if I add a link and let the motor rest on the chip tray.  What does that tell you?


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## Brent H (Dec 20, 2020)

That you have “FOUND THE MISSING LINK!!”


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