# Hoglet V twin



## Ken Mach (Sep 14, 2022)

Wondering if anyone has built a Hoglet engine? I have questions regarding what ignition you used?


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## DPittman (Sep 14, 2022)

Sorry no help from me but if you built that one I'd love to see more pics!


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## Ken Mach (Sep 14, 2022)

Yes I built it from scratch, having difficulty down loading photos?


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## phaxtris (Sep 14, 2022)

Wow that thing is wicked, when you figure out the ignition you need to post a run video


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## jcdammeyer (Sep 14, 2022)

There's a web site on that sort of stuff.








						modelengineignition
					

A division of Outpost Enterprises, LTD Transistorized Ignition Modules, Simplified.  We supply most everything you need for your model engine's ignition system. Complete systems under $50!




					www.model-engine-ignition.com


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## PeterT (Sep 15, 2022)

Hi Ken. Are you on HMEM? The engine gets discussed there.






						Hoglet ignition
					

Gentlemen, I am currently building a Hoglet engine.I’ve built plenty of single engines but never a twin. I plan on using the Howell Tim- ignition kit that I’ve had great success with previously . My question is do I need 2 coils and their drivers or will one suffice? i would appreciate your...




					www.homemodelenginemachinist.com


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## Tom O (Sep 15, 2022)

Learn turning with Andrew Whale has a complete documentary 16 parts I belive showing techniques and changes he made. Here’s #1.


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## Ken Mach (Sep 15, 2022)

Yes I am on that site ….I guess what I’m trying to find is a made in Canada solution …a pipe dream probably. There was a fellow in the US that made ignitions specifically for the Hoglet he retired.


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## PeterT (Sep 15, 2022)

Unfortunately I wont be much help. This outfit sells spark ignition modules, plugs, accessories... for multi-cylinder engines. More orientated to RC models though, so some cost premium for airborne components that have to be compact & low weight etc. And also USA based & I suspect spendy compared to some of the shop made solutions. Good luck. Hope to see a video when its running,








						Buy RC CDI Ignition | CH CDI Ignition | RCEXL CDI Ignition - CH-ignitions
					






					ch-ignitions.com


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## jcdammeyer (Sep 15, 2022)

You can run what is called waste spark ignition.  One sensor at TDC and one at the max advance point on the crankshaft.  You fire both plugs if the engine is running an exhaust stroke at the same time as the compression stroke on the other cylinder.  (Not all twins run symmetrically like that).

There are dual and quad ignition coils designed for that.  Two spark plug high voltage outputs and a low voltage in.  

You probably don't have to go with CDI like we did on this one.


			http://www.autoartisans.com/images/gcf.jpg
		


John


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## PeterT (Sep 15, 2022)

Ken, what ignition system do you have hooked up now? Is it giving problems or you are looking to change for some other reason?

Also, I'm interested in your carb. It looks like off an RC nitro vehicle? I discovered after I got some carb prospects for my radial that car carbs might be as good, if not better choice. Apparently some have inserts to vary venturi throat size? Is it a slide valve or rotating barrel?


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## jcdammeyer (Sep 15, 2022)

I've been watching the videos by Andrew Whale as I fall down yet another rabbit hole.  Question for @Ken Mach 
How did you make your cam shaft.  Did you use the boring bar approach or a different technique?  What material did you use?


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## jcdammeyer (Sep 15, 2022)

If you want to roll your own ignition perhaps this will help.
John


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## Ken Mach (Sep 20, 2022)

jcdammeyer said:


> I've been watching the videos by Andrew Whale as I fall down yet another rabbit hole.  Question for @Ken Mach
> How did you make your cam shaft.  Did you use the boring bar approach or a different technique?  What material did you use?


Boring bar method I built it from drill rod


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## jcdammeyer (Sep 20, 2022)

Ken Mach said:


> Boring bar method I built it from drill rod


The reason I ask is I was given a Craftsman Garden tractor with a 17.5HP B&S engine with a duff camshaft.  Likely the carb needs a good going over too.
Long story short is the camshaft has centrifugal weight that releases compression when the cam is not turning quickly.  That makes possible for the dinky starter and small battery to turn the engine over fast enough so when the weight flys out the compression happens and the engine fires. 

The defective cam shaft surfaces as motor won't turn over.  Hold rubber inner tube piece over carb inlet to prevent any air ingestion and engine hasn't got anything to compress so it turns over fast enough.  Remove rubber flap and engine starts.  

All the videos out there show the same issue.  CAM is anywhere from $25 to real B&S for $150.  Except B&S not available until end November.  Far east clones often fail after several hours running.  Not worth the effort to tear down and rebuild with unreliable CAM.   So I've been thinking about making my own.

I have the tools...


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## Ken Mach (Sep 21, 2022)

jcdammeyer said:


> The reason I ask is I was given a Craftsman Garden tractor with a 17.5HP B&S engine with a duff camshaft.  Likely the carb needs a good going over too.
> Long story short is the camshaft has centrifugal weight that releases compression when the cam is not turning quickly.  That makes possible for the dinky starter and small battery to turn the engine over fast enough so when the weight flys out the compression happens and the engine fires.
> 
> The defective cam shaft surfaces as motor won't turn over.  Hold rubber inner tube piece over carb inlet to prevent any air ingestion and engine hasn't got anything to compress so it turns over fast enough.  Remove rubber flap and engine starts.
> ...


I wouldn’t make a cam shaft for your engine from drill rod I’d look at 4140 htsr or something of that nature And it should be hardened and ground. Keep in mind that the Hoglet engine is not designed for long runs or to drive anything it’s a display engine basically.


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## Ken Mach (Sep 21, 2022)

PeterT said:


> Ken, what ignition system do you have hooked up now? Is it giving problems or you are looking to change for some other reason?
> 
> Also, I'm interested in your carb. It looks like off an RC nitro vehicle? I discovered after I got some carb prospects for my radial that car carbs might be as good, if not better choice. Apparently some have inserts to vary venturi throat size? Is it a slide valve or rotating barrel?


It’s an ignition designed for model aircraft engine an Excel …..it will fire with a strong magnet but this Engine will only allow for a very small magnet not strong enough to trip the hall sensor. I tried a combination of different magnets and hall sensors with no luck, i parked the engine about a year ago out of frustration but it’s time to tackle the problem and finish the project.
The carb is an RC carb as well I bought it on Amazon sorry I can’t remember the details but I believe it has a .250 bore larger ones 
were available when I was looking.


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## jcdammeyer (Sep 21, 2022)

Ken Mach said:


> It’s an ignition designed for model aircraft engine an Excel …..it will fire with a strong magnet but this Engine will only allow for a very small magnet not strong enough to trip the hall sensor. I tried a combination of different magnets and hall sensors with no luck


Lee Valley Tools has some small very powerful magnets.  I've been able to trip a hall sensor with those.


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## Ken Mach (Sep 21, 2022)

Ken Mach said:


> Boring bar method I built it from drill rod
> 
> 
> Ken Mach said:
> ...





jcdammeyer said:


> Lee Valley Tools has some small very powerful magnets.  I've been able to trip a hall sensor with those.


I’ll take a look ….thanks


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## jcdammeyer (Sep 21, 2022)

You have to watch out for magnet polarity as in the sensor is only sensitive to either North or South.  The side of the sensor is also critical for best operation.
This is how mine is mounted inside the 3D printed holder with the pull up resistor and LED to show activation.  I filled that with void epoxy to keep the wires in the right place.




Here is the sensor tripping as the magnet rotates around.




And you can see here there is plenty of space to the sensor and the magnet is not that big.




I believe the one I'm using is the
Item 99K3101, 1/4" × 1/10" Rare-Earth Magnet





						Rare-Earth Circular Magnets - Lee Valley Tools
					






					www.leevalley.com


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## PeterT (Sep 21, 2022)

Ken Mach said:


> The carb is an RC carb as well I bought it on Amazon sorry I can’t remember the details but I believe it has a .250 bore larger ones were available when I was looking.


Just as an aside, be aware that some RC carbs use seals, O-rings etc. that were intended for methanol based fuel & don't do well in gasoline environment if that's what you are running. This includes silicon fuel line too. I hope you get the ignition figured out, it looks like a great build.


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## Ken Mach (Sep 21, 2022)

jcdammeyer said:


> You have to watch out for magnet polarity as in the sensor is only sensitive to either North or South.  The side of the sensor is also critical for best operation.
> This is how mine is mounted inside the 3D printed holder with the pull up resistor and LED to show activation.  I filled that with void epoxy to keep the wires in the right place.
> View attachment 26697
> Here is the sensor tripping as the magnet rotates around.
> ...


I realized the polarity of the magnet was important but I will try both sides of the hall sensor and see if that makes a difference.  Thanks


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## Susquatch (Sep 21, 2022)

PeterT said:


> Just as an aside, be aware that some RC carbs use seals, O-rings etc. that were intended for methanol based fuel & don't do well in gasoline environment if that's what you are running.



Don't you mean the opposite Peter? I'm not familiar with fueled R/C stuff, just battery powered. But I am familiar with vehicle fuel systems. In the automotive world, gaskets, seals, hoses, and o-rings for alcohol fuels can easily handle gasoline, but these same components designed for straight gasoline cannot handle gasoline alcohol blends or neat alcohol fuels. Because of the widespread usage of alcohol fuels today, almost all fuel systems have been upgraded to be compatible with some alcohol in the fuel.


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## PeterT (Sep 21, 2022)

Hmm.... I'm not familiar with the auto world but it has been a guideline in RC since forever. Silicone lines for methanol based fuel. Tygon? or other compounds for gasoline.  I don't run gasoline so don't have much experience there. Most RC methanol fuel also contains nitromethane, % can vary from 0-+45%, maybe a factor? Oil can be castor/synthetic/blend of both. My own experience is some of the methanol O-rings & seals can will swell in the presence of other solvents & others seem perfectly OK. Same goes for regulator (sheet type) materials. Not sure really now that I ponder it.


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## Susquatch (Sep 21, 2022)

PeterT said:


> Hmm.... I'm not familiar with the auto world but it has been a guideline in RC since forever. Silicone lines for methanol based fuel. Tygon? or other compounds for gasoline.  I don't run gasoline so don't have much experience there. Most RC methanol fuel also contains nitromethane, % can vary from 0-+45%, maybe a factor? Oil can be castor/synthetic/blend of both. My own experience is some of the methanol O-rings & seals can will swell in the presence of other solvents & others seem perfectly OK. Same goes for regulator (sheet type) materials. Not sure really now that I ponder it.



Weird Peter.  I had thought maybe you just accidentally reversed them. But since that is what you intended, I don't know either. I have no experience with fueled R/C Stuff.

In cars, the smaller alcohol molecule can damage the plastic and rubber compounds by leaching them. It acts like a solvent. As a result, the hoses/gaskets/tubes/o-rings can become either brittle and crack or soft and mushy.  The leached materials from the tubes and gaskets can also plug downstream fuel system components. A fuel system leak is a dangerous event.

Reading the snags you attached, I note that they don't really say that the parts can not be used interchangeably at the high end but not at the low end. Only that one is for gasoline and the other for lighter fuels. I could easily imagine they just prefer to play it safe and not say anything about the downward compatibility of the components for light fuels. 

Yes, the nitro content might be a factor.

Who knows. The coincidence is just odd.  No biggie though.


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