# New member from Thunder Bay



## ShawnR (Jan 31, 2021)

Hi All

As stated previously by other new members, I found this website and pretty much registered right away. I have a Craftex lathe and small mill as the machining tools, and then the usual metal and wood working stuff. I just built a furnace for melting aluminum but have not tried it yet. 

Looking forward to networking with you all. 

Cheers,

Shawn


----------



## Dusty (Jan 31, 2021)

Welcome aboard Shawn, great bunch of members here, loads of information and insight. What model of Craftex lathe do you run?


----------



## Hruul (Jan 31, 2021)

Welcome to the forum Shawn.


----------



## ShawnR (Jan 31, 2021)

Dusty said:


> Welcome aboard Shawn, great bunch of members here, loads of information and insight. What model of Craftex lathe do you run?



B2227L  

I have had it for probably 20 years but can honestly say that it has not been used all that time. I go hot and cold on hobbies and interests. I have just retired and am in full metal mode right now...

Thanks for the greeting


----------



## Brent H (Jan 31, 2021)

Go Shawn Go!  Welcome to the club!


----------



## ryanthemillwright0919 (Jan 31, 2021)

Welcome, this is a great site you should enjoy it


----------



## Dusty (Jan 31, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> B2227L
> 
> I have had it for probably 20 years but can honestly say that it has not been used all that time. I go hot and cold on hobbies and interests. I have just retired and am in full metal mode right now...
> 
> Thanks for the greeting



B2227L, same Craftex lathe in my shop although somewhat shy of being 20 years old. Mine hasn't seen many miles of late due to my lame right leg but it will.


----------



## CalgaryPT (Jan 31, 2021)

Greetings from Calgary Shawn.


----------



## David_R8 (Jan 31, 2021)

Welcome to the forum from Vancouver Island!


----------



## ShawnR (Jan 31, 2021)

Thanks all. There are many machining forums on the web. Always nice to see Canadian content. 

Having said that, I found this website cause I have a problem threading on my lathe. I did a search for my lathe make and model and here I am! Good find!  

Perhaps I should start a new thread but I have one running on Shop Floor Talk. With the Craftex lathes being a Canadian name, I was hoping someone here would have insight. I see Dusty has the same lathe. Dusty, have you threaded with your lathe? 

Last week, I made a ball turner and decided I need to make a mandrel. That lead to attempting threading (I have done very little of it and probably most under the eye of an instructor in a class many many years ago). I am getting multiple starting points. To save duplication, if anyone is interested, take a peek here   

https://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52821

Would anyone here have any input for me, please?   knew I would be learning and expected practice to be comfortable with cutting threads but 2 days later, I am still trying to figure out what is going on.  I have yet to find that icon for banging the head on the wall...I could use that one lots..

Thank you for the greetings. Looks like another great group!
Cheers,
Shawn


----------



## TOBARApprentice (Jan 31, 2021)

Hey Shawn. Hi from Ancaster. I used to live in T-Bay. Flew for Bearskin Airlines are you PA or KW side? Lots of good scrap finds over at Mission Island for your furnace. As for the threading, I have an old Atlas 10F and it was easier than I thought. To be honest, you’ve tapped into probably the greatest group of folks possible. All great, very helpful and really good guys and gals. I would suggest that you check out threading on YouTube. There are MANY examples but if you check out mrpete222 “Tubalcain” he is likely your best start. His early stuff, where he teaches is amazing, his recent stuff, not so much. Keep in touch, and good luck. Let us know if you need anything, most of us have extra or can find bits and pieces for you...... like a “web of pals” so to speak. We’re all in this together.

Cheers, 

Derek


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Chipper5783 (Jan 31, 2021)

Hi Shawn, welcome to this machining forum.  I'm a Lakehead grad - so have enjoyed the hospitality in TB.  Hang in there on learning single point threading on the lathe.  Think of it as a core competency, that pushes you into learning a number of fundamental lathe operations.  I looked at your "shopfloor" post and I think the troubleshooting and feedback support was all valid (I'd switch the tool to the chuck side of the tool post, pull everything in as short as you can, cut a wide groove where the thread will end (so the tool end in air) - and off course figure out the thread counting dial.   The threading dials can be quite different from one lathe to the next (I have two lathes and the "when to close the half nut" is very different from one the next - regardless, the provided instructions make it straight forward).  Single point threading is one of those tasks that you have to set up a number of parameters (get them one piece at a time) - once you get it sorted out you'll wonder what the big deal was.

I too am in an on again / off again sort of retired.  Hoping to be in the shop a bit more.  David


----------



## RobinHood (Jan 31, 2021)

Hi Shawn, welcome.

Can you take a picture of the front of your lathe showing the table. I suspect that it is of the metric pitches. The table inside the manual only shows SAE. Also it does not show where the 127T transposing gear is supposed to go in the change gear train - yet the parts list says the lathe has it.... something is a little odd here....

I think your lathe has a metric lead screw. Here is a picture from the page you posted. The “3” means 3.0mm pitch, the 30* is the pressure angle.






So the threading procedure you describe here https://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52821 only works if you are threading in METRIC (if indeed the lathe has a metric lead screw).
Which would mean two things: a) the 127T transposing gear can not be in the drive train, and b) unless you have a complex metric thread dial, you need to engage at the same number all the time (there are multiple engagement points for metric, but it gets very complicated and the lathe needs a special dial - which yours does not seem have.).

Here is the threading dial of my METRIC Standard Modern 1340. Note the 5 different locations in which it can be mounted depending in the thread pitch (there are 5 gears on that dial). The chart on the bottom tells you which letter(s) on top can then be used to engage the lead screw at.






If you happen to have the 127T gear in the gear train, then you are attempting a SAE (imperial) thread. That automatically means you can not open the half nut (well, you can, but again, it gets very complicated...) at the end of the pass. You must leave them engaged and reverse the spindle to move the carriage to the starting point. Then take a new pass.

Hopefully you can follow my explanation. If not, just ask. Post pictures of your change gear set-up (preferably with gear teeth count) so we can see what needs to be done to make it work for you.


----------



## YotaBota (Jan 31, 2021)

Another Island welcome.


----------



## Brent H (Jan 31, 2021)

Hey Shawn R - Plus 1 for @RobinHood 's explanation - If you are on an imperial lead screw lathe with metric change gears you have to leave things engaged - Oxtool on Youtube has a great video on a bit different process that works pretty slick.  If you have a metric lead screw and change gears for imperial threading etc  and are trying to cut imperial threads I think it will be the same type process.  Metric lead and Metric change gears you will need a fancy threading dial like @RobinHood has to achieve consistency


----------



## Dusty (Jan 31, 2021)

@ ShawnR, "Perhaps I should start a new thread but I have one running on Shop Floor Talk. With the Craftex lathes being a Canadian name, I was hoping someone here would have insight. I see Dusty has the same lathe. Dusty, have you threaded with your lathe?"

Sorry, wish I could be more helpful however my limited experience with threading on the B2227L Craftex lathe always seemed to end in total disaster. Similar to you as newbe I found the biggest problem was changing out the gearing then replacing same in order to return to turning stuff. Basically I soon discovered it was a total pain in the butt due to my mistakes and multiple starting points. Just when I thought I had the process down pat it might be weeks before I needed do it again then I started the learning process over again. Enough of that crap so I acquired a real nice hand set of imperial and metric taps and dies and never looked back. When I first started most of my machine work was making small aluminum pullies with sealed ball bearing inserts which I staked into the aluminum pullies for static aircraft at the Western Development Museum here in Moose Jaw.

Refer to 'Off Topic Discussion' then check out my thread on the Vickers Vedette Flying Boat. Took a barrel full of small pullies to make the flying controls work properly although I tried hard woods at first just like the originals and that was a lost cause.

Most if not all of the threading I ever require doing is on the small side of the scale. Would be rare for me to tap in the 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch area other than my chasing threads perhaps. I have a lame leg so when I get back on my feet I shall reconsider threading on the Craftex B2227L only because I want to.


----------



## 6.5 Fan (Jan 31, 2021)

Welcome


----------



## ShawnR (Jan 31, 2021)

Thanks all

Robinhood,  Here is a photo of the front of the machine. The chart is very different than the one in the manual. And a photo of the gears, installed.

Thanks Dusty. I know how you feel. I have avoided threading for along time, but finally decided to get over it. .....as I mentioned,...2 days later and still cannot do it.  ;-)

If I was cutting metric threads, the same procedure applies, no? My problem is that the start point changes on me. I have been using the whole numbers, Different ones at different times, but always the same number for an attempt, maybe I should try the half's. I could put the gears in for a metric thread too and see if I achieve the consistency that I am looking for. 

Today, after disassembling the cross slide and cleaning it all up, and changing gears to a selection from the machine front, I think I had about 8 passes on top of each other, thought I had it....then a pass right beside them, about a mm away! I have checked for slop, backlash, even tightened the drive belts, pulled the cover off of the gear box to see if I could find a faulty gear.....nope!

It will be something odd or something I am doing wrong.  In the meantime, I am learning lots about the lathe. It used to just be a box that I can make chips with. I am more intimate with it now.


----------



## Brent H (Jan 31, 2021)

@ShawnR :  The Table 1 chart in your manual must relate to the side of your lathe and I can see why Bill struggled with the information.  The table in your manual is crap - basically a bunch of change gear combinations that relate to ABCD and what the heck does that mean?  LOL

I see you have posted the chart on the side of your lathe - great!  I have to go to the ER but will check things out  @RobinHood might have some ideas - if your lathe is originally all metric - which the parts manual suggests  - that 127 tooth gear may not be needed for metric threading and causing you grief.  For imperial threading it will be needed but it doesn't look like there is a threading or feed chart available....have to make one...


----------



## YYCHM (Jan 31, 2021)

Brent H said:


> I have to go to the ER but will check things out.



I hope you're referring to the Engine Room and not the other kind of ER?


----------



## Brent H (Jan 31, 2021)

@YYCHobbyMachinist : yes indeed - Doctor Diesel is on call 24/7 - have to be in the control room for tie ups and departures in case the fan is hit!


----------



## RobinHood (Jan 31, 2021)

Thanks for the pictures @ShawnR and your comments @Brent H . There sure is a big problem with consistency in those charts!

From the picture table on the front of the machine (assuming for a second it is correct), the machine for sure has a metric lead screw.

This is contradicted inside the manual by the partial table (because it only shows 1/n [TPI]) and does not repeat the supposed metric threading table found on the headstock.

We need to confirm a few things:

A) is the lead screw METRIC? Do you have metric and imperial thread pitch gauges? If you do, please measure the lead screw for us. Thanks.

B) in your second picture, the 127T gear with whatever is behind it to form the transposing compound gear would suggest that you are attempting an imperial thread (with the metric lead screw lathe). If that is in fact the intent, then *you can not open the half nut after the initial engagement.* You must stop the spindle at the end of the cut, back out the tool, reverse the spindle to bring the carriage past the starting point, stop the spindle, feed in with your tool a bit, start the spindle in forward to make your cut (half nut is always engaged), Repeat until you are done. The threading dial is not used in this operation.

C) if you intend to cut metric threads with your metric lead screw lathe, the 127T gear needs to be removed from the gear train.

D) the note on the headstock table (see red boxed area) is “Chinglish” for saying to put an idler gear in the spot to make up the space between the input (gear A) and output (gear D) gears - whichever one you chose does not matter, as long as the input and output gears are connected in a straight line (no compound gears allowed; compound gear is a gear made up of two gears with the same or different tooth count connected on the same shaft).






E) it might be advisable to turn the spindle by hand (power disconnected and out of gear for safety) so you can practice engaging/disengaging the half nut. Threading at 115 rpm (your lowest speed) takes practice and it is easy to “miss the mark” on the threading dial, especially with a coarse thread. Ideally your spindle speed would be down to 20-30 rpm for first attempts at threading. That would give you a fighting chance to see what is actually going on.

A lot to take in, I know.

We will help you with the tables once you get the above sorted out....


----------



## Crosche (Jan 31, 2021)

Hi Shawn,

Greeting and welcome to the forum. My parents live out your way, so we head there every summer.

Cheers,

Chad


----------



## Dusty (Jan 31, 2021)

@RobinHood your post #23 is a mouth full for this old codger with much to digest so I'll print off your post and double check my B2227L Craftex lathe tomorrow bum leg agreeing.

<snip> From the picture table on the front of the machine (assuming for a second it is correct), the machine for sure has a metric lead screw.

How did you determine that @RobinHood? When a guy buys a new lathe one finds himself in a world of new lingo if you have never been around a lathe before. Like falling out of a two story window and hitting the sidewalk runni

Meanwhile I offer this from my users manual and my lathe. Sorry about my second photo couldn't get it into a 1/4 turn right. So looking at the gearing photo and going from left to right without taking it apart it should be gear #30, then large gear #60 inner, small gear #35 outer, and the larger bottom gear #125. That is the way I received the lathe gearing from factory.

Basically my facts concur with what you speak to.


----------



## Dusty (Jan 31, 2021)

@ShawnR, @Brent H, @RobinHood, for me the light just went on. Comparing Shawn's photo of his threading scale and that of mine there's a huge difference between the number of gears listed for each.

Shawn should have the following gear set according to his chart, #30-35-40-45-50-55-60-65-70-75-80-110-120-127 for a grand total of 14.
Now I understand how Shawn's lead screw is metric.

Dusty's gear set includes #30-35-40-45-50-55-60-63-65-70-80-98-100-105-120-125 for a grand total of 16.
It would appear my lead screw is designed for both imperial and metric, am I correct in thinking that?


----------



## RobinHood (Jan 31, 2021)

Dusty said:


> How did you determine that @RobinHood? When a guy buys a new lathe one finds himself in a world of new lingo if you have never been around a lathe before. Like falling out of a two story window and hitting the sidewalk runni



Dusty, in @ShawnR ’s head stock picture, in the “1/n” ( TPI, or imperial threads) chart section (red boxed section) there is a 127T gear in position C. It gets paired with either a 45T, 60T, 75T, or a 120T gear (position B), depending which threads per inch (TPI) you want to cut.






One only needs that gear when going from a metric lead screw to imperial threads because there are 254mm /in. One could use a 254T gear, but that would be a rather large diameter gear. So what is commonly done, they take 254 and divide it by 2 to get 127T (this is a prime number and can’t be divided any more and still be a whole number). Gears can only be made with whole a number of teeth.

So the fact that there is a 127T gear in the drive train to achieve imperial threads, I know that the lead screw has to be metric. Conversely, if the 127T gear is in play when cutting metric threads, then the lathe has an imperial lead screw.

Dusty, now for your lathe (it is going to get complicated....)

It is the same model, but it does not seem to use the 127T transposing gear any more. They use an approximation to get the 127T ratio (100/127=0.787401) by using the 63/80 = 0.7875 combo. I don’t see any reference in your manual on how to use the threading dial. So we need to first confirm if you have a metric or imperial lead screw. Then we can offer a solution as to how to use it.



Dusty said:


> So looking at the gearing photo and going from left to right without taking it apart it should be gear #30, then large gear #60 inner, small gear #35 outer, and the larger bottom gear #125. That is the way I received the lathe gearing from factory.



Please look at the red and yellow boxes in the photo below of your lathe set-up:






The red box denotes the available feed rates in inches of longitudinal feed per one spindle revolution. According to that chart, there are two speeds available: 0.0025”/rev and 0.005”/rev. Currently, you are set-up for the factory preset of 0.005”/rev. This is not a thread.

If you want to produce a specific thread, you need to find it in the chart and assemble your gear train accordingly. For example, if you want to cut a 1/2”-13 TPI thread, you need to put the 80T gear in position A, the 40T in B, the 70T in C and the 65T in D.


----------



## RobinHood (Jan 31, 2021)

Dusty said:


> It would appear my lead screw is designed for both imperial and metric, am I correct in thinking that?



You are sort of correct: the lathe is capable of producing both some metric and some imperial threads.

Unfortunately a lead screw can not physically be both metric and imperial at the same time. It is either a metric lead screw that with the 100/127 transposing ratio can be “tricked” into acting like an imperial one. OR it is an imperial lead screw that again uses the 100/127 ration to “make” it into a metric lead screw.

At the end of the day it really does not matter if it is metric or imperial. The only thing that changes is how the operator uses the threading dial and the half nut.


----------



## ShawnR (Feb 1, 2021)

TOBARApprentice said:


> Hey Shawn. Hi from Ancaster. I used to live in T-Bay. Flew for Bearskin Airlines are you PA or KW side? Lots of good scrap finds over at Mission Island for your furnace. As for the threading, I have an old Atlas 10F and it was easier than I thought. To be honest, you’ve tapped into probably the greatest group of folks possible. All great, very helpful and really good guys and gals. I would suggest that you check out threading on YouTube. There are MANY examples but if you check out mrpete222 “Tubalcain” he is likely your best start. His early stuff, where he teaches is amazing, his recent stuff, not so much. Keep in touch, and good luck. Let us know if you need anything, most of us have extra or can find bits and pieces for you...... like a “web of pals” so to speak. We’re all in this together.
> Cheers,
> Derek
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Thanks Derek. Been to Tubalcain more than once.  ThisOldTony is really good too. I enjoy his graphics he inserts (cartoonish) and his sense of humour. But, at the same time, very informative.


----------



## Dusty (Feb 1, 2021)

@RobinHood wrote, Dusty, now for your lathe (it is going to get complicated....)

It is the same model, but it does not seem to use the 127T transposing gear any more. They use an approximation to get the 127T ratio (100/127=0.787401) by using the 63/80 = 0.7875 combo. I don’t see any reference in your manual on how to use the threading dial. So we need to first confirm if you have a metric or imperial lead screw. Then we can offer a solution as to how to use it.

Please look at the red and yellow boxes in the photo below of your lathe set-up:

View attachment 13081

The red box denotes the available feed rates in inches of longitudinal feed per one spindle revolution. According to that chart, there are two speeds available: 0.0025”/rev and 0.005”/rev. Currently, you are set-up for the factory preset of 0.005”/rev. This is not a thread.

If you want to produce a specific thread, you need to find it in the chart and assemble your gear train accordingly. For example, if you want to cut a 1/2”-13 TPI thread, you need to put the 80T gear in position A, the 40T in B, the 70T in C and the 65T in D.[/QUOTE]

Yes you are absolutely correct SuperUser the B2227L Craftex manual that came with my lathe offers no information on using the threading dial. had to rely on videos to understand what I was up against like being between a rock and a hard place. My initial threading attempted was a 3/8" course thread so I stuck with that. After studying the gearing chart front face of my lathe I selected the correct gears, installed them and gave it a try. Although I fully understand one might not get it right the first time my threading process simply didn't work out and I couldn't understand the why. Finger not connecting to my brain says I. 

Yes I understand the basics on how to determine and change the gear train for specific thread(s).   This morning I took a serious look at my lead screw unsure how one determines if its metric or imperial although I assume metric. I need to work on that today.

Believe it all boils down to do I use the threading dial or not.


----------



## Brent H (Feb 1, 2021)

@Dusty : Put a scale on the lead screw and count the threads over 1" - typical lead screw at 8 TPI will be pretty easy to see as the threads will all line up at the 1/8" markings.  If it is a metric pitch it will typically have a very odd number of threads within that inch and things will not line up at the 1 inch mark.


----------



## Dusty (Feb 1, 2021)

Brent H said:


> @Dusty : Put a scale on the lead screw and count the threads over 1" - typical lead screw at 8 TPI will be pretty easy to see as the threads will all line up at the 1/8" markings.  If it is a metric pitch it will typically have a very odd number of threads within that inch and things will not line up at the 1 inch mark.



Was just out was in the shop measuring my lead screw and it measures out like this. The lead screw measures 0.7880" / 20.01 mm diameter, there are 7 lands within 1 inch (six full lands and two halves), and my #7 imperial thread pitch gauge lines up perfectly with the center of the lands.

From your comments above and my calculations I say metric lead screw.


----------



## RobinHood (Feb 1, 2021)

Look what I found!

https://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/forum/general/39936-threading-confusion-a-bit-long

In post #11 of the quoted thread, it shows clearly a *7TPI* lead screw, like what you measured Dusty. And lo and behold in post #17 of the thread, they reveal the lathe: a *BB2227L*!

If you read through all the posts very carefully, it gives a good explanation of the threading dial use of this lathe (and any other lathe for that matter). Of particular interest is post #24!

So now we know that at least the newer models have an imperial lead screw.

Perhaps Shawn can chime in and confirm the lead screw on his BB2227L.


----------



## Brent H (Feb 1, 2021)

Bravo @RobinHood : that is great to find out - read that linked thread - Wow @Dusty - that is some crazy leadscrew but hopefully the new info it will help with threading on your lathe.   The lead screw diameter must have been some out of whack engineering cheat to make something fit?  0.7915 is more than 20mm and less than 51/64's ....wow.  No wonder confusion abounds!


----------



## ShawnR (Feb 1, 2021)

Well,...I had great success today! Not as I expected but once I accepted that I must keep the carriage engaged, I found the process actually easier and less stressful than staring at the wheel, waiting for it to come around and trying to snag it at the exact moment!  Here is the lead screw with a ruler so all can see what I have and compare to Dusty's description. Also, completed working threads! I cut the half inch first, then turned it down and cut 7/16 but only had the lock nut for the video. After cutting a longer thread, I ground out the nylok to use it as a regular nut. Figured it would not be impressive to slowly screw a nylok on versus spinning the nut onto the new thread!

Thank you everyone for all of the advice. As I stated over at ShopFloorTalk, I learned a lot about my lathe in the process, cleaned it up, got more comfortable with how the gears work and changing them and now have a pretty good handle on how to cut threads, although practice is in my future!

Here is the first successful thread test. The nylon is still in the nut so I only ran it till it hit.


----------



## Dusty (Feb 1, 2021)

Brent H said:


> Bravo @RobinHood : that is great to find out - read that linked thread - Wow @Dusty - that is some crazy leadscrew but hopefully the new info it will help with threading on your lathe.   The lead screw diameter must have been some out of whack engineering cheat to make something fit?  0.7915 is more than 20mm and less than 51/64's ....wow.  No wonder confusion abounds!



@Brent H, amended my lead screw diameter measurement in my Post # 32. Your comments above had me somewhat concerned so I returned to my shop with my trusty Mitutoyo calipers and micrometer in hand (don't usually store them in my shop). This time I wasn't in such a hurry measuring so my lead screw diameter measurement is smack on 20mm or 0.780 inch. Does this make more sense?

Having read Post #33 (Look what I found) and following the details I'm more confused than ever, not that it takes much. LOL


----------



## Dusty (Feb 1, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> Well,...I had great success today! Not as I expected but once I accepted that I must keep the carriage engaged, I found the process actually easier and less stressful than staring at the wheel, waiting for it to come around and trying to snag it at the exact moment!  Here is the lead screw with a ruler so all can see what I have and compare to Dusty's description. Also, completed working threads! I cut the half inch first, then turned it down and cut 7/16 but only had the lock nut for the video. After cutting a longer thread, I ground out the nylok to use it as a regular nut. Figured it would not be impressive to slowly screw a nylok on versus spinning the nut onto the new thread!
> 
> Thank you everyone for all of the advice. As I stated over at ShopFloorTalk, I learned a lot about my lathe in the process, cleaned it up, got more comfortable with how the gears work and changing them and now have a pretty good handle on how to cut threads, although practice is in my future!
> 
> Here is the first successful thread test. The nylon is still in the nut so I only ran it till it hit.



Great work Shawn, so your lead screw has 9 lands per inch according to your photo. What diameter is your lead screw?


----------



## ShawnR (Feb 1, 2021)

I measured 0.785 " diameter and 17 threads in 2 inches, so, yep, 7.5 threads/inch. Interestingly, I used a divider set to exactly 2 inches, and put it up against the leadscrew. The points fell perfectly onto the start of one thread and the start of the next thread 18 later, so that leaves 17 threads included in the 2 inches.  If I did the math right on that, it comes out to 2.988 mm metric pitch so, I think it was mentioned before, a 3 mm pitch. The screw being 20 mm x 3 ? Make sense?


----------



## Brent H (Feb 1, 2021)

Yes, it makes sense you have a 20 mm x 3 pitch lead screw.  If you look at the gears required for 1.0 mm pitch  it is a 60 on A , B can really be any gear and the 45 goes on D.  this gives you a 1:1.333333 gear ration  so with the 3 pitch lead screw you advance 1 mm per revolution or 1 mm pitch threading


----------



## ShawnR (Feb 1, 2021)

@Dusty A few years back, I was on a kick to get more comfortable with changing the gears out. We are all different in what bugs us (pet pieve) but one of the things that bugged me was the number of different tools needed. 14 and 17 mm (iirc) sockets, phillips driver and 8 mm wrench, after you got into the end panel (6 mm allen key?...don't remember) just to swap gears, so, 5 different tools..... think about different feed rates for different finishes...UUUrrrrrrrrr! Of course, most feeding is by hand...

One great little project was combining those tools, mostly. I made a knurled nut for the panel fastener and then got some surplus sockets and welded up a tee wrench that combined all of the tools. It was a diversion away from actually getting comfortable with swapping gears, maybe,  but as many times as I have swapped gears in the last three days as I worked through this threading dilemna, time well spent! Back then, I was active on Home Shop Machinist, another great site, and I found an old thread that I was part of. Check out post #11 and on. 

https://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/forum/general/70551-common-tool-feed-rate

Cheers, 

Shawn


----------



## Dusty (Feb 1, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> @Dusty A few years back, I was on a kick to get more comfortable with changing the gears out. We are all different in what bugs us (pet pieve) but one of the things that bugged me was the number of different tools needed. 14 and 17 mm (iirc) sockets, phillips driver and 8 mm wrench, after you got into the end panel (6 mm allen key?...don't remember) just to swap gears, so, 5 different tools..... think about different feed rates for different finishes...UUUrrrrrrrrr! Of course, most feeding is by hand...
> 
> One great little project was combining those tools, mostly. I made a knurled nut for the panel fastener and then got some surplus sockets and welded up a tee wrench that combined all of the tools. It was a diversion away from actually getting comfortable with swapping gears, maybe,  but as many times as I have swapped gears in the last three days as I worked through this threading dilemna, time well spent! Back then, I was active on Home Shop Machinist, another great site, and I found an old thread that I was part of. Check out post #11 and on.
> 
> ...



Thanks Shawn, like your suggestion something to plan for and build at a later date.


----------

