# 8x16 Metal Lathe Buyers Guide



## opensourcefan (Nov 17, 2021)

*Disclaimer*

The following is an account of knowledge gained while researching my small lathe purchase. Keep in mind I only know what I know, don’t know what I do not know and don’t claim to know everything. I am not recommending a particular machine, take this info and apply it to your own situation and needs.

*The Basics*

So... you are interested in an 8x16 lathe. You may have narrowed your decision down or up to this size. I did the same and let me help sort out some 8x16 info.

The 8x16 is made in China, along with the 7x(x), 9x(x), 10x22. These are probably the variations you were/are looking at or came across while ending up at this one. I had a tough time deciding until I went and saw them in person and got a feel for actual size. Once I did though I knew the 8x16 was for me.

These lathes are offered under many different brand names and model numbers. Grizzly (G0768), BestEquip, Vevor, Numobams etc. Some have no names at all, just model numbers. Warco has a few models close to the 8x16, they are not exactly the same specs as the 8x16’s but the WM-240 is the closest. When we are talking specs here, it’s just the 8 swing and 16 length. The model numbers vary depending on the manufacturer and installed features. It seems as though WM-210V is the base or core model which most are derived from and seem to reference. But you will see all kinds of designations. WM210V, G0768, MX210, MX-210V, NU210-G, TS-210, AMAT-210, D210 and on and on. As you can see the *210 *is your hint but check the specs as you may find some 8x14 machines using these model numbers as well.






It's important that you are aware that not all the machines are the same. You will see many different variations so be careful and ask questions or ask for actual photos to know what you are getting. This is not a simple re-branding thing by factories of the same machines. Also note that photos can’t really be trusted, especially on auction sites. Most of the photos are used by everyone and you’ll find different machines in the same set of photos, never knowing what you’re actually going to get.

*Distribution chain*

It appears that most, if not all the *castings* for these lathes are made in the same place. Most likely to the same basic standards. Manufactures then take the castings and build machines from them. I believe most of the parts also come from their perspective manufactures. So really the differences between all the lathes lies in the features, quality control, tweaking and finishing.

Companies acquire all the parts and build the lathes. Photos can be found all over showing large numbers of these lathes being put together and tested in different factories. Some manufactures claim that their factories adhere to a recognized standard.

Some of the machines are available direct either via aliexpress or Alibaba or even a factory website as in the case of NUMOBAMS. The rest of the machines are shipped in bulk around the world and sold at higher prices by distributors. Most distributors are likely working on behalf of companies in China which is evident when you begin communicating with them.

Some machines are made under contract specifically for a company. For the 8x16 Grizzly, Chester and Warco come to mind. There are many others but those just seem to be brand designations more than specifically tweaked machines. For the 7x12, almost everyone has there own version and color.

A machine direct could be as low as 700 USD, the same machine is usually 1200 USD once in North America. If you are in the USA it may not be worth purchasing direct however if you are in Canada there is bigger financial savings buying direct. The cost of that lower price is the longer ship time.

*Quality hints*

Some things are immediately obvious of a lower quality product:


Stickers instead of metal placards, stickers on crooked, rough castings, flaking / missing paint, bent panels with large uneven gaps, hand wheels and handles, missing backlash adjustments at hand wheels, lack of tail stock adjustment set screw.

Some things are harder to see or notice when only looking at photos:

Gear quality, spindle bearing quality, finishing of shafts and pulley’s, smoothness of slides, bearings or no bearings, spindle / chuck runout







*Issues* (most common required fixes, tuning and mod requirements)

There will be issues upon delivery, expect them, prepare for the them mentally and tactically. It’s not a big

- Manufacturing debris, dirt, metal shaving, burs etc will need to be dealt with
- Paint corrections
- Tuning of slides will need to be done for smooth operations. This may entail adjusting the gibs, adding gib screws, lapping the slides, adding bearings to the wheels and rods, or all of the above
- Deburr pulley’s and shafts
- Check control board for loose connections and un-soldered components
- Check the security of every bolt and screw. Don’t forget, they all took a 50 day boat ride

If you want to turn your machine into a super accurate beast then check out this video. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiOGM5hoSXYTcOpqEtYlV4g

*Common To All Features*

Variable speed, powered carriage, forward / reverse motor, RPM LCD, emergency switch, 4 way tool post, back splash, drip tray,

*Configuration Features*

- Voltage 110v or 220v
- Motor wattage (I’ve seen 550, 600, 750, 850, 900, 1100)
- Metric or imperial? (imperial comes with more change gears for a greater thread selection
- Tail stock assembly cam lock lever (side or rear)
- Spindle bore diameter and chuck to match. No sense having a large spindle bore if you can’t get your Material through the chuck opening
- Pulley belts, narrow (5mm) or wide (15mm)
- Gears, plastic or metal or mix

*More Rare Factory Features*

The 8x16 doesn’t offer a lot of major factory add-on type features but there are a few:

- Reverse / Fwd dial for threading. This is not a common feature to find, currently I’ve only seen it on the Numobams and Grizzly. Keep in mind they’re probably the same lathe.





- Threading dial indicator






- DRO – Digital Readout







*Accessories*


Steady rests, quick change tool posts, 4 jaw independent chuck, centers, tail stock chuck, DRO

Some lathes are sold as complete packages with all of the accessories and more to get you started. Keep in mind cutters and tooling may not be the best of quality. Most certainly the toolbox that they come in is often broken.







*Piece of Mind*

Even though these 8x16’s are inexpensive, quickly thrown together, built on the cheap, in not the best conditions doesn’t mean this is a bad product. Just know, that upon delivery you will need to spend a week or so inspecting, cleaning, tweaking, modifying and maybe rebuilding or down right replacing parts. Once that process is done though you will know your machine inside and out. You can also feel assured that there are billions of parts out there that will just bolt on should you need to replace something in the future. The better the quality of the initial machine, equals less work needed to be done upon arrival.

*Where to buy*

If you have the stomach for it, buy direct. If you don’t mind waiting a couple to a few months for it to arrive, buying direct will save you money and possibly get you a lathe specific to your needs.

Direct (China) – Make contact using Aliexpress, Alibaba or their website.
Local – The Chinese lathe distributors are usually quite thorough in spreading their items so you’ll find them everywhere, Amazon, Walmart, eBay etc.
Showroom Direct

USA - Grizzly appears to be the only one selling an 8x16 lathe (G0768)
Canada – None, I’ve contacted King and they’re not interested
UK – Chester (DB8VS), Warco (WM 240)

*My Direct (Overseas) Buying Experience** - *(Manufacturer to be revealed in my upcoming machine review.)

I tried to buy locally, I really really did. My attempts on ebay were frustrating. Shipping was either $600+ not including fees. One listing I actually did buy but the seller misrepresented the weight and after the purchase stated that it couldn’t be shipped at that price. That seller then tried to get me into a bunch of other machines that I didn’t want... bait and switch...? Nothing was available in Canada and as stated above, no companies bring in this lathe as their own. Warco, Chester don’t appear to ship to Canada, Grizzly was too expensive once all was taken into account.

After all that I gave up and determined going to the source (China) was the best option. It turns out that I was able to custom order my machine to some degree and build a relationship with the builders themselves. The cost was considerably lower for a better quality, more specific to me, more feature full product.

Time Zones - The biggest issue for me was the time difference, there was a lot of email tag happening with almost 12hrs between each message. You can see if you have questions or concerns the going back and forth could take a while.

Language – There was no issue with language here. The person that I was emailing with wrote English just fine.

Professionalism – The person that I spoke with was super professional and very proud of their machines. They were eager to make a package that I wanted and were up front about costs.

Purchase Security – Go with your gut. Use a payment source that has buyer protection. Do your due diligence in gathering whatever evidence you need to feel comfortable.

Shipping Time – If you buy direct and you don’t want to pay triple digit shipping, it will be coming by boat, a huge cargo ship to be exact. If you’re on the west coast of North America it shouldn’t get stuck in the Suez Canal. It will however take about 50 days to float its way to you.

Hope you found this useful. Any questions or anything you think should be added DM me.


----------



## DPittman (Nov 17, 2021)

Very good information for those considering such a purchase. I believe your work and research will pay off in having the best machine for you for the best price.


----------



## Susquatch (Nov 17, 2021)

opensourcefan said:


> *Disclaimer*
> 
> The following is an account of knowledge gained while researching my small lathe purchase. Keep in mind I only know what I know, don’t know what I do not know and don’t claim to know everything. I am not recommending a particular machine, take this info and apply it to your own situation and needs.
> 
> ...



Very interesting story. An adventure if you ask me! 

I'm having trouble pulling together a decent dro system from China. Bait and switch seems to be the name of the game every place I go. I don't think I'd have the stomach to buy a lathe that way. 

Kudos to you for making it work.


----------



## darrin1200 (Nov 18, 2021)

Great info. I sent my brother-in-law a link to it. 
I am really looking forward to your review of the one you bought.


----------



## opensourcefan (Dec 9, 2021)

Revised - Dec 9th, 2021 - Added Metric / Imperial Section

*Disclaimer*

The following is an account of knowledge gained while researching my small lathe purchase. Keep in mind I only know what I know, don’t know what I do not know and don’t claim to know everything. I am not recommending a particular machine, take this info and apply it to your own situation and needs.

*The Basics*

So... you are interested in an 8x16 lathe. You may have narrowed your decision down or up to this size. I did the same and let me help sort out some 8x16 info.

The 8x16 is made in China, along with the 7x(x), 9x(x), 10x22 and many others. These are probably the variations you were/are looking at or came across while ending up at this one. I had a tough time deciding until I went and saw them in person and got a feel for actual size. Once I did though I knew the 8x16 was for me.

These lathes are offered under many different brand names and model numbers. Grizzly (G0768), Weiss (Dro Pro's), BestEquip, Vevor, Numobams etc. Some have no names at all, just model numbers. Warco has a few models close to the 8x16, they are not exactly the same specs as the 8x16’s but the WM-240 is the closest. When we are talking specs here, it’s just the 8 swing and 16 length. The model numbers vary depending on the manufacturer and installed features. It seems as though WM-210V is the base or core model which most are derived from and seem to reference. But you will see all kinds of designations. WM210V, G0768, WBL210V, MX210, MX-210V, NU210-G, TS-210, AMAT-210, D210 and on and on. As you can see the *210 *is your hint but check the specs as you may find some 8x14 machines using these model numbers as well.









It's important that you are aware that not all the machines are the same. You will see many different variations so be careful and ask questions or ask for actual photos to know what you are getting. This is not a simple re-branding thing by factories of the same machines. Also note that photos can’t really be trusted, especially on auction sites. Most of the photos are used by everyone and you’ll find different machines in the same set of photos, never knowing what you’re actually going to get.

*Distribution chain*

It appears that most, if not all the *castings* for these lathes are made in the same place. Most likely to the same basic standards. Manufactures then take the castings and build machines from them. I believe most of the parts also come from their perspective manufactures. So really the differences between all the lathes lies in the features, quality control, tweaking and finishing.

Companies acquire all the parts and build the lathes. Photos can be found all over showing large numbers of these lathes being put together and tested in different factories. Some manufactures claim that their factories adhere to a recognized standard.

Some of the machines are available direct either via aliexpress or Alibaba or even a factory website as in the case of NUMOBAMS. The rest of the machines are shipped in bulk around the world and sold at higher prices by distributors. Most distributors are likely working on behalf of companies in China which is evident when you begin communicating with them.

Some machines are made under contract specifically for a company. For the 8x16 Grizzly, Weiss, Chester and Warco come to mind. There are many others but those just seem to be brand designations more than specifically tweaked machines. For the 7x12, almost everyone has there own version and color.

A machine direct could be as low as 700 USD, the same machine is usually 1200 USD once in North America. If you are in the USA it may not be worth purchasing direct however if you are in Canada there is bigger financial savings buying direct. The cost of that lower price is the longer ship time.

*Quality hints*

Some things are immediately obvious of a lower quality product:


Stickers instead of metal placards, stickers on crooked, rough castings, flaking / missing paint, bent panels with large uneven gaps, hand wheels and handles, missing backlash adjustments at hand wheels, lack of tail stock adjustment set screw.

Some things are harder to see or notice when only looking at photos:

Gear quality, spindle bearing quality, finishing of shafts and pulley’s, smoothness of slides, bearings or no bearings, spindle / chuck runout








*Issues* (most common required fixes, tuning and mod requirements)

There will be issues upon delivery, expect them, prepare for the them mentally and tactically. It’s not a big

- Manufacturing debris, dirt, metal shaving, burs etc will need to be dealt with
- Paint corrections
- Tuning of slides will need to be done for smooth operations. This may entail adjusting the gibs, adding gib screws, lapping the slides, adding bearings to the wheels and rods, or all of the above
- Deburr pulley’s and shafts
- Check control board for loose connections and un-soldered components
- Check the security of every bolt and screw. Don’t forget, they all took a 50 day boat ride

If you want to turn your machine into a super accurate beast then check out this video. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiOGM5hoSXYTcOpqEtYlV4g

*Common To All Features*

Variable speed, powered carriage, forward / reverse motor, RPM LCD, emergency switch, 4 way tool post, back splash, drip tray,

*Configuration Features*

- Voltage 110v or 220v
- Motor wattage (I’ve seen 550, 600, 750, 850, 900, 1100)
- Metric or imperial? (imperial comes with more change gears for a greater thread selection
- Tail stock assembly cam lock lever (side or rear)
- Spindle bore diameter and chuck to match. No sense having a large spindle bore if you can’t get your Material through the chuck opening
- Pulley belts, narrow (5mm) or wide (15mm)
- Gears, plastic or metal or mix

*Metric or Imperial*

This is an area that you need to be very cautious about. If you're buying metric you most likely won't have an issue. If you are buying Imperial this is where you need to find out exactly "how imperial" the lathe is. Metric is how they usually begin their life and they're converted to Imperial for the US market. This conversion can be fully done as in the case with Grizzly, Dro Pro's etc but many sold elsewhere are partially converted or barely converted.

It is important to remember that your thread cutting precision will be dependent on your lead screw matching your intended threading type. ie, Imperial lead screw for Imperial threads. 

Many lathes will only have the dials converted, leaving all the lead screws in metric. This results in Imperial threads being not exact, however the metric threads will be spot on even though you purchased an "Imperial" lathe. With an Imperial lathe more change gears are required to cut the most common threads. Not all machines will have all the required change gears. The threading charts on most machines unless properly converted won't reflect many of the common threads. ie 32

The other thing to keep in mind is spindle bore diameter. If the lathe has the larger spindle bore it most likely has a 56tpi gear vs the 40tpi on the smaller spindle. This difference results in a longer stack of gears for the 56tpi version. Some threading configurations may not fit with the supplied change gears. A large selection of change gears is recommended, usually doubling up on 60 and 80.

There's a great program offered here to calculate your gearing. https://www.mibot.com/gears/gears.php

*More Rare Factory Features*

The 8x16 doesn’t offer a lot of major factory add-on type features but there are a few:

- Reverse / Fwd dial for threading. This is not a common feature to find, currently I’ve only seen it on the Numobams and Grizzly. 







- Threading dial indicator








- DRO – Digital Readout









*Accessories*


Steady rests, quick change tool posts, 4 jaw independent chuck, centers, tail stock chuck, DRO

Some lathes are sold as complete packages with all of the accessories and more to get you started. Keep in mind cutters and tooling may not be the best of quality. Most certainly the toolbox that they come in is often broken.








*Piece of Mind*

Even though these 8x16’s are inexpensive, quickly thrown together, built on the cheap, in not the best conditions doesn’t mean this is a bad product. Just know, that upon delivery you will need to spend a week or so inspecting, cleaning, tweaking, modifying and maybe rebuilding or down right replacing parts. Once that process is done though you will know your machine inside and out. You can also feel assured that there are billions of parts out there that will just bolt on should you need to replace something in the future. The better the quality of the initial machine, equals less work needed to be done upon arrival.

*Where to buy*

If you have the stomach for it, buy direct. If you don’t mind waiting a couple to a few months for it to arrive, buying direct will save you money and possibly get you a lathe specific to your needs.

Direct (China) – Make contact using Aliexpress, Alibaba or their website.
Local – The Chinese lathe distributors are usually quite thorough in spreading their items so you’ll find them everywhere, Amazon, Walmart, eBay etc.
Showroom Direct

USA - Grizzly (G0768), Dro Pro's (WBL210V
Canada – None, I’ve contacted King and they’re not interested
UK – Chester (DB8VS), Warco (WM 240)

*My Direct (Overseas) Buying Experience** - *(Manufacturer to be revealed in my upcoming machine review.)

I tried to buy locally, I really really did. My attempts on ebay were frustrating. Shipping was either $600+ not including fees. One listing I actually did buy but the seller misrepresented the weight and after the purchase stated that it couldn’t be shipped at that price. That seller then tried to get me into a bunch of other machines that I didn’t want... bait and switch...? Nothing was available in Canada and as stated above, no companies bring in this lathe as their own. Warco, Chester don’t appear to ship to Canada, Grizzly was too expensive once all was taken into account.

After all that I gave up and determined going to the source (China) was the best option. It turns out that I was able to custom order my machine to some degree and build a relationship with the builders themselves. The cost was considerably lower for a better quality, more specific to me, more feature full product.

Time Zones - The biggest issue for me was the time difference, there was a lot of email tag happening with almost 12hrs between each message. You can see if you have questions or concerns the going back and forth could take a while.

Language – There was no issue with language here. The person that I was emailing with wrote English just fine.

Professionalism – The person that I spoke with was super professional and very proud of their machines. They were eager to make a package that I wanted and were up front about costs.

Purchase Security – Go with your gut. Use a payment source that has buyer protection. Do your due diligence in gathering whatever evidence you need to feel comfortable.

Shipping Time – If you buy direct and you don’t want to pay triple digit shipping, it will be coming by boat, a huge cargo ship to be exact. If you’re on the west coast of North America it shouldn’t get stuck in the Suez Canal. It will however take about 50 days to float its way to you.

Hope you found this useful. Any questions or anything you think should be added DM me.


----------



## darrin1200 (Dec 10, 2021)

Great purchase review @opensourcefan.  It’s a shame no one in Canada Birmingham in the large version.


----------



## GummyMonster (Dec 17, 2021)

Excellent write up.
I actually purchased the Numobam 850w lathe and their vm18-l milling machine.
To be honest I haven't been able to use them yet due to outside issues.
They both seem very well built and I have little doubt that will serve me well.
If it's the same as you purchased, hopefully we can compare/discuss them.
 I've been mulling over how to make the lathe bed more rigid for little cost, if it needs it.
Ken


----------



## opensourcefan (Dec 17, 2021)

We may have some comparing and discussions in our future  

TBA


----------



## opensourcefan (Jan 25, 2022)

Just an update. My lathe is floating across the Pacific somewhere on this path. Lost AIS signal leaving Japan a number of days ago. Following its journey is adding a whole new dimension to the purchase, really enjoying it.


----------



## YYCHM (Jan 25, 2022)

opensourcefan said:


> Just an update. My lathe is floating across the Pacific somewhere on this path. Lost AIS signal leaving Japan a number of days ago. Following its journey is adding a whole new dimension to the purchase, really enjoying it.



Shipped from Japan?


----------



## opensourcefan (Jan 25, 2022)

Nope, China


----------



## Luca_La (Oct 4, 2022)

I am having quite a bit of trouble finding a decent, simple DRO system for my 8x16 wm210v. With a 150$-250$ budget .

 Any help /suggestion would be greatly appreciated !


----------



## DPittman (Oct 4, 2022)

Luca_La said:


> I am having quite a bit of trouble finding a decent, simple DRO system for my 8x16 wm210v. With a 150$-250$ budget .
> 
> Any help /suggestion would be greatly appreciated !


The Absolute Igaging DRO's are an option.  Not on the same level as a full blown DRO but the size makes the installation a bit easy.  I have had one on my 10x22 lathe for several years and really think it is MUCH better than nothing.


----------



## Luca_La (Oct 4, 2022)

DPittman said:


> The Absolute Igaging DRO's are an option. Not on the same level as a full blown DRO but the size makes the installation a bit easy. I have had one on my 10x22 lathe for several years and really think it is MUCH better than nothing



Yes I was eying this system, and I might just follow your suggestion. I am just a bit confused about sizing though. So 24in for the Z-axis  and 12in for cross slide (X)  ?   I'm sorry I don't have the machine yet and cant take proper measures ... (the price is on sale now at busybee).

Thx !


----------



## DPittman (Oct 4, 2022)

Luca_La said:


> Yes I was eying this system, and I might just follow your suggestion. I am just a bit confused about sizing though. So 24in for the Z-axis  and 12in for cross slide (X)  ?   I'm sorry I don't have the machine yet and cant take proper measures ... (the price is on sale now at busybee).
> 
> Thx !


That sounds right, if I recall correctly that is what I ordered for my lathe and just cut the scales to size. 
I'm not sure what Busy Bee has right now but just remember that there are black IGaging scales that are suitable for wood machines but the "Absolute DRO's" that are suitable for metal machine tolerances.


----------



## Vector Warbirds (Oct 6, 2022)

*Fantastic informative post, great work!*


----------



## Dabbler (Oct 6, 2022)

@opensourcefan   Great writeup.

The Youtube link (super accurate) pointed to the general channel instead of the direct video:  can you please edit the section to add the title of the video?  (makes it easier to find if it is still up)

Dave Mateer  (DaveM) on outube has 2 of these, and has a lot of fixit and enhancing videos for these 8X16 metal lathes:  he has 2 of them:
He is at:  https://www.youtube.com/user/lsidave/featured

He also has a website with a few technical documents about tear-downs and fixing motor issues.


----------



## guitarchitect (Oct 11, 2022)

Luca_La said:


> I am having quite a bit of trouble finding a decent, simple DRO system for my 8x16 wm210v. With a 150$-250$ budget .
> 
> Any help /suggestion would be greatly appreciated !


I use a Ditron DRO and it's terrific. You can ask for magnetic tape instead of full on scales and it works just as well, esp in the limited space you have on a 8x16. It might be a bit more than your price range but buy once cry once and all that!


----------



## 6.5 Fan (Oct 11, 2022)

I would love to see a ELS for the 10" machines, that would be a kit in a box ready to bolt on and use.


----------



## guitarchitect (Oct 11, 2022)

6.5 Fan said:


> I would love to see a ELS for the 10" machines, that would be a kit in a box ready to bolt on and use.











						The electronic leadscrew - ELS 4 - Rocketronics English
					






					www.rocketronics.de
				




I almost went for this before realizing that CNC wouldn't cost that much more, and is wayyyyymore useful. But if you have specific needs this system will meet it's pretty great!


----------



## Dabbler (Oct 11, 2022)

@6.5 Fan I was going to suggest Rocketronics - BUT it is not a ''bolt on''.  There is quite a bit to do to adapt it to your machine.

You have to mount an encoder  coupled to you headstock that wil count at least 1,000 times per revolution that is compatible with the system (they are very helpful in getting you the right one)


----------



## guitarchitect (Oct 11, 2022)

Dabbler said:


> @6.5 Fan I was going to suggest Rocketronics - BUT it is not a ''bolt on''.  There is quite a bit to do to adapt it to your machine.
> 
> You have to mount an encoder  coupled to you headstock that wil count at least 1,000 times per revolution that is compatible with the system (they are very helpful in getting you the right one)


it's a hard thing to mass market. In the CNC side of things there's a semi bolt-on CNC solution for Grizzly and WM210-V lathes courtesy of BDTools. There's a company called ProCut CNC that makes a true bolt-on CNC solution for PM/Craftex lathes, but they don't respond to communication and have been known to take money without delivering product. 

there's one newcomer to the space though, from Beryl CNC called Multiform. It's as bolt-on as you can possibly get but can't do threading, so it's a non-starter for something ELS-like. pretty cool product but the current version only has about 1.5" of Z travel


----------



## 6.5 Fan (Oct 12, 2022)

Thanks for the heads up on the ELS, need something bolt on and idiot proof, when computer talk starts my eyes glaze over and i become deaf.


----------



## Susquatch (Oct 12, 2022)

Dabbler said:


> @6.5 Fan I was going to suggest Rocketronics - BUT it is not a ''bolt on''.  There is quite a bit to do to adapt it to your machine.
> 
> You have to mount an encoder  coupled to you headstock that wil count at least 1,000 times per revolution that is compatible with the system (they are very helpful in getting you the right one)



1000 counts per rev eh..... That's within spitting distance of DRO Precision. Makes me wonder if a strip of that magnetic tape used in the magnetic scales of a DRO could be wrapped around the spindle of a DRO and sensed by a quadratic scale sensor to generate the required signal. 

The gap might be fun. And of course I can't help but wonder how that would work at 3000 rpm. Certainly not within the scope of a standard Arduino....


----------



## Dabbler (Oct 12, 2022)

Susquatch said:


> 1000 counts per rev eh..... That's within spitting distance of DRO Precision.


There are lots of encoders that achieve this, but people usually use a cheaper encoder.  It is done by making a timing belt 2:1 or 3: drive to the encoder.


----------

