# Bridgeport 2J



## That-Guy (Sep 5, 2022)

So, I did it AGAIN...... Saw a machine for a good price and decided to drag it home. I seem to find happiness in impulse buying rust.

When I looked at it the spindle was locked, but spun free in neutral, and the ways looked decent from what I could see.







 So I went for it. Whats the worst right. As of this moment, I've got the motor off as well as the top of the head. Brain surgery time I guess. Turns out that the only reason the head was locked up was that the brake was stuck. Got that free and checked the spindle, got .0002" run out on the taper. Back gear works well and every bearing but the one on the vari-drive pulley is in good nic. I did a quick adjustment of the gibs and got it down to .00015" play in the table, I'm sure I can get that better yet. I removed the old DRO and am at the point of putting a parts order to H&W down south of us here. At this point is there anything I should be renewing since I've got it all torn apart? I plan on pulling the table and saddle off the knee and cleaning that all to new. Then paint.


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## RobinHood (Sep 5, 2022)

Nice score.

Sounds like you are well on the way to get a good mill into your shop.

I would just continue the tear down and cleaning process. Inspect everything closely. Replace what needs it and re-assemble. Make sure all the lubrication points are in good order and are serviced with the proper lubricants.


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## That-Guy (Sep 9, 2022)

So I found my first legit problems other than the bad bearing. The clock spring let go, explains the quill being heavy. I also discovered that the one shot oilers tank is cracked. Going to keep at it when I get a few minutes here and there. Life gets in the way of living some how!




I know I'm poking the hornets nest here; but what colour should I paint it? I was thinking a nice AMC metallic blue. (if I tried this on PM I figure I'd get banned! ).


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## 6.5 Fan (Sep 9, 2022)

Lime green would look good.


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## That-Guy (Sep 9, 2022)

6.5 Fan said:


> Lime green would look good.


Nice thought!! I just find grey so depressing in the winter.... Because here everything is grey.... And cold.... Long live summer!


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## LenVW (Sep 9, 2022)

That-Guy said:


> So I found my first legit problems other than the bad bearing. The clock spring let go, explains the quill being heavy. I also discovered that the one shot oilers tank is cracked. Going to keep at it when I get a few minutes here and there. Life gets in the way of living some how!
> View attachment 26381
> I know I'm poking the hornets nest here; but what colour should I paint it? I was thinking a nice AMC metallic blue. (if I tried this on PM I figure I'd get banned! ).


Don’t bother with a metallic paint, unless you plan on washing n waxing it daily.
Besides automotive metallic will cost you a couple hundred per gallon.
An Enamel primer and top coat will work fine. 
Sandy Brown or Sky Blue.

Save your cash for tightening the table axis.


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## Susquatch (Sep 9, 2022)

This paint talk is sooooo depressing. 

You guys are wasting waaaaay too much time thinking about colour. Paint it hunter orange for all I care! 

Then let's get on with important stuff like spending your money on DROs, power XYZ, VFDs, New Motor, collet sets, a 0.0000005 Mitutoyo Micrometers like @Dabbler, Power Drawbar, 300 pound vise, 16 inch rotary table, and of course a wench like the one that @Brent H has.......


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## That-Guy (Sep 9, 2022)

Susquatch said:


> This paint talk is sooooo depressing.
> 
> You guys are wasting waaaaay too much time thinking about colour. Paint it hunter orange for all I care!
> 
> Then let's get on with important stuff like spending your money on DROs, power XYZ, VFDs, New Motor, collet sets, a 0.0000005 Mitutoyo Micrometers like @Dabbler, Power Drawbar, 300 pound vise, 16 inch rotary table, and of course a wench like the one that @Brent H has.......


Fair enough! (why would want a new motor though?) Power draw bar I was thinking to build from a butterfly wrench I've had a million years. Dro.... Well that's a different thread all together. I've got an original Bridgeport vise, going to do for now. 

Now power feeds. There is a thought. I love what ca Lem did (YouTube) with the power z motor internal to the knee. Has anyone else messed with this? Would it be possible to do something similar with the xy, I wonder (meaning hidden, I've never liked the power feed assembly hanging off the table)? One thing I am sure of, this machine will not see any cnc, I don't want that.


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## Susquatch (Sep 10, 2022)

That-Guy said:


> One thing I am sure of, this machine will not see any cnc, I don't want that.



I'm with you on that one brother! Notice I didn't even mention CNC! 

I was "mostly" just joking on the rest of the stuff. Paint is just soooooo boring. Prolly cuz I hate painting. 

I also hear you on the internal power drives. I don't like all that stuff hanging out all over the place either. It just looks like an accident waiting to happen.


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## Chicken lights (Sep 10, 2022)

Susquatch said:


> and of course a wench like the one that @Brent H has.......


I can’t tell if that was a typo, a compliment or both


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## Susquatch (Sep 10, 2022)

Chicken lights said:


> I can’t tell if that was a typo, a compliment or both



It was NOT a typo - at least not this time. It was very deliberate on my part - this time. 

However, it actually is a reference to a typo a year or so ago describing how useful @Brent H's "Wench" was during a heavy Bridgeport machinery move. Of course, they meant to say winch. But there it was..... Brent's wench Bertha doing all the heavy lifting while Brent just stands there admiring her "abilities". It was, and still is, absolutely hilarious! I've never forgotten it and I might as well warn everyone that it will come out regularly.


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## whydontu (Sep 10, 2022)

Back to paint. 1973 AMC Javelin. Just sayin’


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## That-Guy (Sep 11, 2022)

Did some more disassembly. Found a few little things here and there. The ram did not want to move at all.... had to give it a little poke with the forklift to get it freed up. The XY Nut was hanging on by a thread to the saddle, and the one oil line was long ago disconnected. This post is more of a photo update. 

Also a PSA, don't use Mastercrap felt polishing wheels.... dammed thing tried to murder me!


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## 6.5 Fan (Sep 11, 2022)

Oh a new style mastercrap flap wheel. Hard on the ol' knuckles


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## Tom O (Sep 11, 2022)

Did you read the fine print ? Lol 
Polish him of boy’s!


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## That-Guy (Oct 15, 2022)

It's been a few weeks since I had any spare time. The W word is coming and what not, things need done, honey do list ect. I did manage to give it a good scrub down with hot water and TSP and got some body filler on the worst spots. The primer ended up in three colours, I didn't want to drive to town for more, so I used what I had on hand. Then I finally got some paint on the column. Now I can put the knee back on it and move it into its more permanent home. The next thing on the list will be bearing replacements in the head and some more cleaning. I've also got all the part to rebuild the oilier.

Now on the note of parts; H&W only ship UPS, and for that reason I will not be using them again. UPS tried to charge me 145.38 import charges. So I did the logical thing and self cleared my package, 59$ in Gov Taxes for being alive and all good, right? WRONG. Those jerks over at UPS billed me again for "their service", but this time with a late fee. I did manage to get it sorted out but it took me over 3 hours on the phone. I now hate UPS more than ever, their slogan should be "We'll break it for you, charge you for it and then let you have it a week late". Rant over.





This was after Hot water and TSP. Seemed to clean up not too shabby. Scrubbed it all down with some Scotch Brite.





Got out my old nemesis and got the worst spots all filled in and sanded. I switched to a NPPA branded body filler after this. That old bondo was a bear to deal with. The NAPA stuff was so nice.




Looks like a few trucks around here....











And the Final colour reveal. DONE! Now beer, food, bed.


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## YYCHM (Oct 15, 2022)

What's the shaper I see in your images?


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## Proxule (Oct 15, 2022)

Forget the shaper, Look at that beer!!!


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## That-Guy (Oct 15, 2022)

YYCHM said:


> What's the shaper I see in your images?


It's an old sweedish holbruck. Works great!


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## That-Guy (Oct 15, 2022)

Keen eye you've got! 


Proxule said:


> Forget the shaper, Look at that beer!!!


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## YYCHM (Oct 15, 2022)

That-Guy said:


> It's an old sweedish holbruck. Works great!



What size?


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## That-Guy (Oct 15, 2022)

YYCHM said:


> What size?


14"


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## That-Guy (Nov 19, 2022)

Welp, back at it today since we got snowed in (I pretend like it bothers me but I friggen love a day off, 3' of snow so far). I did a lot of cleaning, cleared all the oiler lines, polished a bunch of odds and sodds. Rebuild the Bijur oiler, and the pictures will prove why you should. Man that thing was full of shmoo. The o-ring on the pump plunger was worn right out and the check valve was not really checking anything. Got all that rectified and cleaned. Took a cotton bobbin to the top to clean it up a bit, I like shiny. 






Look at all that lovely SHMOO! Do not want.



This little check valve was stuck open, it took me a while, but I got the offending chip out of it. 



Rebuilt and shinned up a bit. Not going for visual perfection. New o-rings all through, cleaned check valve, and new filter stack... Also a new tank since the old one was very very broken.



Current progress of today. I do however have a question. Below is the table, and I hate the way it looks. What would be my best options for cleaning this up. I don't need it to be 100% as it would be after a grind, but I want it a dammed sight better than this. I am apprehensive to go at it with much, as dare I mess with a flat surface, but I was tossing the idea around of using a large bench stone to just to clean up the worst of it. The aft surface cleaned up amazingly with just some lacquer thinner and some green scotch brite, the front, not so much. Any thoughts on the matter are appreciated!!!!




I hope you all less snow than we got today, more tomorrow.... both snow and hopefully progress.


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## phaxtris (Nov 19, 2022)

Looks wicked!


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## That-Guy (Nov 19, 2022)

phaxtris said:


> Looks wicked!


Thank you very much!


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## Brent H (Nov 19, 2022)

Your table looks pretty good.  Stone it to removed any dings etc. then, set up a straight edge across as much of the table as you can and do a sweep with a good quality gauge.  If you have a place on the table that is clean, run the gauge on the table and check it out.  

My table has a few “patina” marks but still goes less than 0.001 across 42” 

For your back lash / - see if you have a good feel over the range of table travel.  I changed out my x and y spindles and nuts as it was fine in the middle but way too tighr at the bitter ends.  Made sense to re-new with power feed.  Nice and clean feed now.


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## trlvn (Nov 20, 2022)

Re table clean-up, I agree with @Brent H about stoning and checking.  To improve the appearance, I use a simple approach:  keep the surface wet with oil for a week or more.  Then use a razor scraper to remove the patches of surface rust.  Finally, wipe down with fine scotchbrite or similar.  My mill table had much more built-up rust than yours and it looks like this now:






It is not perfect--you can still see the outline of where the T-slot scraper must have laid for several years!  Lots good enough for me, though.

Craig


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## Susquatch (Nov 20, 2022)

trlvn said:


> Lots good enough for me, though.



I agree with both of you. A good stone will show the high spots rather instantly and fix them too. Even a table that looks horrible can usually be stoned to work great! Very very happy with the three I have done. 

Also, you can easily fix any pecker marks with Devcon Steel Epoxy. A little oil and some light scraping and then stoning and they look just fine.


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## That-Guy (Nov 20, 2022)

> Brent H said:
> 
> 
> > For your back lash / - see if you have a good feel over the range of table travel. I changed out my x and y spindles and nuts as it was fine in the middle but way too tighr at the bitter ends. Made sense to re-new with power feed. Nice and clean feed now.


Thanks for advice on the table, I'll get on that. So far the Y axis screw and nut have worked out great. Next to .003" backlash with a little adjustment and no tight spots along the screw.  I want this as a manual machine so that's more than good enough for what I need.


trlvn said:


> Re table clean-up, I agree with @Brent H about stoning and checking. To improve the appearance, I use a simple approach: keep the surface wet with oil for a week or more. Then use a razor scraper to remove the patches of surface rust. Finally, wipe down with fine scotchbrite or similar. My mill table had much more built-up rust than yours and it looks like this now:


That table looks GREAT! Thanks for advise. Is everyone just using a bench stone (such as https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho.../33018-aluminum-oxide-oil-stones?item=08M0401, since thats what I got on hand), or are we talking precision ground stones.....?



Susquatch said:


> agree with both of you. A good stone will show the high spots rather instantly and fix them too. Even a table that looks horrible can usually be stoned to work great! Very very happy with the three I have done.
> 
> Also, you can easily fix any pecker marks with Devcon Steel Epoxy. A little oil and some light scraping and then stoning and they look just fine.


I see I get to go online shopping today as well! Thanks for the knowledge! This has got to be one of the best forums I've been a part of in many years.


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## Susquatch (Nov 20, 2022)

That-Guy said:


> That table looks GREAT! Thanks for advise. Is everyone just using a bench stone (such as https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho.../33018-aluminum-oxide-oil-stones?item=08M0401, since thats what I got on hand), or are we talking precision ground stones.....?



That will work but if it is already used, it might not be the best plan. It might have bevels in it. Table dressing stones should be new and only used on flat surfaces. 

I prefer a round stone and I keep it with my mill tools and only use it for my mill table and rotary table. It's also nice to check the table before mounting a vise or tooling. 

This one is a bit more money but it will point you in the right direction if you go that way. Others might prefer square.

Norton 547-61463685545 Ib64 4X1 Round India Comb Bench Stone https://a.co/d/iF0ANt1


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## Susquatch (Nov 20, 2022)

That-Guy said:


> So far the Y axis screw and nut have worked out great. Next to .003" backlash with a little adjustment and no tight spots along the screw. I want this as a manual machine so that's more than good enough for what I need.



That sounds GREAT! LUCKY YOU!


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## That-Guy (Nov 22, 2022)

Susquatch said:


> That will work but if it is already used, it might not be the best plan. It might have bevels in it. Table dressing stones should be new and only used on flat surfaces.


Well, they have been ordered! I got 2 round and 2 of the rectangular ones, see what I prefer. I'll make sure to keep one of each nice and clean and away from users with less discerning tastes in stones.

On Monday I got to go play in the shop for a bit, so here are some photos.




Got these nasty arse looking things cleaned up. Started with emery, moved up to an aggressive polish compound I use for badly corroded aluminum, then on to some S7 so brighten them up. They will never be perfect, but are looking a lot better! One day, time allowing, I'll make some new handles.





This little guy called Reverse Trip Ball Lever (PN 1033-03 at {https://machinerypartsdepot.com/quill-housing-spindle-quill-breakdown}) caused me about 4 hours of frustration to get loose. The dammed thing broke off deep. I ended up using a clamp to jam the quill stop rod down, drilled very very gingerly, ruining a few bits in the process. Then I managed to get a 4-40 tap JUST started on half a thread and ever so carefully worked it out of the home it had made for itself. There was a beer after that one! I've got a nice piece of durabar and shall try to make one of these I think. 



This is the way that part should look.












GREAT SUCCESS!!! 

NAAAHT! 

Along with that feeling of elation I got some some bitter and hard to digest disappointment. My spindle bearings, that I was so happy were in great condition, seem to have been hiding a rusty skeleton from me. With the quill assy away from the rest, the spindle sounds like a pissed off grizzly, and feels like sand.... Somehow, someway, this has been hiding (I guess all that nice thick grease up in the head covered up the feel?). After all my checking and re-checking... So I guess I've gone to far now. Ordering more parts tonight and will strip the quill in the morrow'. 

More beer shall be required for this.
I'll keep everyone posted.
Cheers to all.


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## Susquatch (Nov 22, 2022)

That-Guy said:


> Well, they have been ordered! I got 2 round and 2 of the rectangular ones, see what I prefer. I'll make sure to keep one of each nice and clean and away from users with less discerning tastes in stones.
> 
> On Monday I got to go play in the shop for a bit, so here are some photos.View attachment 28198
> 
> ...



Well done @That-Guy .

I had trouble with my reverse trip ball Lever too. It was stripped. I didn't take mine out to get at the quill though, I took mine apart to remove the quill play for a DRO install. Doesn't matter, it was the same challenge. I feel your pain.


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## Tomc938 (Nov 22, 2022)

Thanks for sharing this restoration with us!  Your mill is looking GREAT and will be such a pleasure to use - after all, you turned the beast into a beauty!


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## That-Guy (Nov 27, 2022)

Tomc938 said:


> Thanks for sharing this restoration with us! Your mill is looking GREAT and will be such a pleasure to use - after all, you turned the beast into a beauty!


Thanks for the kind words! I tried this a few years back with PM and an old lathe, and got nothing but negativity.


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## That-Guy (Nov 27, 2022)

Ok so the weekly weekend update. This week wasn't the best for free time. Broken things everywhere that required more of my attention than I cared for... But I still got to do a little.

First the break down of the spindle. It went swimmingly. A little press and away it all came. I needed a bearing splitter to get the lower bearing stack off, but other than that it was butter.




I'm guessing that the machine was put outside for an amount of time before I got it, but not long enough to totally wreck the rest. 





Here is a closer view of the upper spindle bearing. It's got some badness going on for sure.




Here is the lower main spindle bearing. Not looking too happy ether. I didn't know oil could rust.... But here it is ....







So on the spindle bearings.... H&M Machine remove the oiler and grease ( AHHH!!!) their bearings. What are your thoughts on this? I more prefer to maintain my things, maybe this is meant more for industrial shops where things tend to be neglected? Or is just the way things are now? I'm not sure what to think about it.....

Parts are on the way, they should be here sometime before the new year? Maybe?

Now on to happier pastures.

I tried out my nice new stones..... BOY WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!!! Thank you all for the advice on this!!!! I'm chuffed to bits, it looks a thousand times better, and I'm not done yet. @Susquatch I agree that the round stones seem to work a little more smoothly. I found that the rectangular ones kept catching the high spots and digging in while the round ones didn't really have the edge to roll over on me. Great recommend, Thank you.







That's all for this Sunday's post. Thanks to all who have been following along and for all the advise I'm receiving. Lets do this again next week!


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## Susquatch (Nov 27, 2022)

That-Guy said:


> H&M Machine remove the oiler and grease ( AHHH!!!) their bearings. What are your thoughts on this? I more prefer to maintain my things, maybe this is meant more for industrial shops where things tend to be neglected? Or is just the way things are now? I'm not sure what to think about it.....



I have the same questions that you do. I chose to keep my oilers. I wasn't sure it was the best choice, but that's the choice I made. Much as I like Barry's style I have a hard time ignoring the manufacturers recommendations. In the end, I concluded Barry's advice was aimed at those who don't like to perform regular maintenance. That isn't me, so I stuck with oil. 

I see you have a few pecker marks on your table. Mine is worse. They don't matter functionally but if you want to improve the appearance, some Devcon plastic steel looks after them nicely. 

Great job so far. You will be so proud of it when you are done! I like your writing style too!


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 27, 2022)

That-Guy said:


> So I found my first legit problems other than the bad bearing. The clock spring let go, explains the quill being heavy. I also discovered that the one shot oilers tank is cracked. Going to keep at it when I get a few minutes here and there. Life gets in the way of living some how!
> View attachment 26381
> I know I'm poking the hornets nest here; but what colour should I paint it? I was thinking a nice AMC metallic blue. (if I tried this on PM I figure I'd get banned! ).


my clock spring let go too.

paint is this colour






with this colour highlights


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## Tomc938 (Nov 27, 2022)

That-Guy said:


> Thanks for the kind words! I tried this a few years back with PM and an old lathe, and got nothing but negativity.


That's what I like about this group - they are even able to find nice things about the pictures of projects I post.  ("At least it's small enough you can't put your name on it.")


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## Susquatch (Nov 28, 2022)

TorontoBuilder said:


> my clock spring let go too.
> 
> paint is this colour
> 
> ...



I got nothin.


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 28, 2022)

Susquatch said:


> I got nothin.



I figured years ago that if Macuna could paint a Monarch 10EE blazing Red, I could do likewise once I got a chipmaster. That is how long I've been waiting to get one... 15 years. Tempus fugit.


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## Susquatch (Nov 28, 2022)

TorontoBuilder said:


> I figured years ago that if Macuna could paint a Monarch 10EE blazing Red, I could do likewise once I got a chipmaster. That is how long I've been waiting to get one... 15 years. Tempus fugit.



Way more patience than I have. 

Macuna and you are both colour blind...... Anything that colour in my shop would end up covered in matching shades of wild turkey poop 15 seconds after I opened the barn doors.......


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## Engmaxx (Nov 28, 2022)

That-Guy said:


> So on the spindle bearings.... H&M Machine remove the oiler and grease ( AHHH!!!) their bearings. What are your thoughts on this? I more prefer to maintain my things, maybe this is meant more for industrial shops where things tend to be neglected? Or is just the way things are now? I'm not sure what to think about it.....


When I refurbished my Bridgeport 1J a couple years ago with parts from H&W Machine (excellent source...and RIP Jon), I didn't need to replace the spindle bearings (luckily) but all the other bearings did get replaced.  I went with the sealed/greased versions in the top end with the bull gear so the upper oiler is no longer necessary.  Therefore I am only using the lower oil cup for the spindle bearings.  I am happy.  One can argue that the upper components don't get oiled but I used Teflon grease on all those components and since I don't often use them, it is not something I am concerned about. IMHO


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## Susquatch (Nov 28, 2022)

Engmaxx said:


> since I don't often use them, it is not something I am concerned about. IMHO



If yours is the same as mine, those upper components spin even when they are disengaged. They are just decoupled. I don't think how often you use them matters much. 

Hopefully, greasing vs oiling is just an optional preference and both are equally satisfactory.


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## Engmaxx (Nov 28, 2022)

Sorry, yes, you are correct.  I am only thinking of the down feed drive and the gears around the downfeed lever that are Teflon greased and have minimal use.  The bull gear cavity is filled with grease as recommended by H&W.  I can't imagine my use will see the life of the grease met in this section but it isn't tough to get to and replenish if that were the case.


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## Xyphota (Nov 28, 2022)

The upper oiler just drips oil onto the bull gear teeth so that there is lubrication in the meshing of the gears, so it only needs oil when the low-speed gear is engaged. When in high-speed, the pinion is physically lowered so it no longer meshes with the bull gear and bull gear just spins freely in space with nothing touching it.


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## That-Guy (Nov 28, 2022)

Susquatch said:


> Great job so far. You will be so proud of it when you are done! I like your writing style too!


Thank you very much! I am looking forward to getting it running smooth, its got a lot of tools to make; to make tools; to make tools, for a job I could have bought a tool for! I'm sure my former college profs would be surprised to hear someone likes my writing! hahahahahaha. Also the Epoxy you suggested is on order, should be here this week or early the next. 



TorontoBuilder said:


> paint is this colour


That is a bright colour combo! It's already got a nice coat of metallic deep green on it now. The price was right on the paint so that's what I went with!


TorontoBuilder said:


> I figured years ago that if Macuna could paint a Monarch 10EE blazing Red


Where does one see this blazing Red Monarch??? I like red lathes (look in the background!).



Engmaxx said:


> I went with the sealed/greased versions in the top end with the bull gear so the upper oiler is no longer necessary.


I almost went with sealed bearings, but there is something about those things that has always bothered me, I seem to see these fail alot more often than plain old bearings (DEFINITELY and ish-me not and Issue! They are perfect for some application). At work I quite enjoy cleaning up and repacking bearings. Its cathartic for me. Also I think I've talked myself into believing that if I stick with oil lubed bearings, any (very light) debris that gets into them can be "flushed". I may be blowing ghost smoke up my own.... but hey....



Xyphota said:


> The upper oiler just drips oil onto the bull gear teeth so that there is lubrication in the meshing of the gears, so it only needs oil when the low-speed gear is engaged. When in high-speed, the pinion is physically lowered so it no longer meshes with the bull gear and bull gear just spins freely in space with nothing touching it.


Respectfully, you do seem to have this a bit wrong. The bull gear is what moves up and down, and it is grease packed. The pinion cannot move, and it is also grease packed. There isn't an oiler that goes to these, there is only the plug you take out of the back of the housing that allows you to push in grease. There is however an oil cup directed at the bearing under the bull gear, on the "fixed Clutch Bracket". Is this different on a 1J head or M?


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 28, 2022)

Susquatch said:


> Way more patience than I have.
> 
> Macuna and you are both colour blind...... Anything that colour in my shop would end up covered in matching shades of wild turkey poop 15 seconds after I opened the barn doors.......


nope


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 28, 2022)

That-Guy said:


> Thank you very much! I am looking forward to getting it running smooth, its got a lot of tools to make; to make tools; to make tools, for a job I could have bought a tool for! I'm sure my former college profs would be surprised to hear someone likes my writing! hahahahahaha. Also the Epoxy you suggested is on order, should be here this week or early the next.
> 
> 
> That is a bright colour combo! It's already got a nice coat of metallic deep green on it now. The price was right on the paint so that's what I went with!
> ...



Macuna posted his 10EE on practical machinist... but there are several other really colourful 10EEs out there. One was done in valspar bright orange implement paint, and another in bright teal, and some other bright deep blues


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## Darren (Nov 28, 2022)

My 10ee is going to be a boring but glossy machine tool gray.  Maybe a blue racing stripe...


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## Xyphota (Nov 28, 2022)

That-Guy said:


> Respectfully, you do seem to have this a bit wrong. The bull gear is what moves up and down, and it is grease packed. The pinion cannot move, and it is also grease packed. There isn't an oiler that goes to these, there is only the plug you take out of the back of the housing that allows you to push in grease. There is however an oil cup directed at the bearing under the bull gear, on the "fixed Clutch Bracket". Is this different on a 1J head or M?
> 
> View attachment 28377


Sorry, you are absolutely right, its the step pulley head where the pinion moves up and down, I got the 1J & 2J mixed up. Thanks for pointing that out.


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## That-Guy (Dec 11, 2022)

So its been a bloody busy few weeks.... Seems like machines break left right and centre right before the holidays. 

On a side note, anyone got an injection pump or rebuild kit for a NH33TC? Puked right in the middle of the lane.

But back to what we actually enjoy working on. MY BEARINGS CAME BEFORE THE NEW YEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!! And this time the UPS jerks kept their paws off of them. USPS for the win.





Aside from that I was playing with some body work on the head itself. The standard clean, prep, fill, sand, sand more, think that there is no way you put this much filler on, sand until the cows come home and then leave for college, paint, clear, clear, get mad at clear and sand it, then clear again.


















So that's all I've managed to get done since the last post. As always projects take a back seat to life less fun points. I did manage to finally find a good RPC and transformer

Now, does anyone on this wonderful forum got a lead on a good set of R-8 collets? or any R-8 tooling for that matter. When I got the machine it came with nothing.

This week I'm hoping to get some spare time to start the reassembly of the quill and head. This I will try to document in great detail. The end (of this project) is nigh! Until next time, keep the chips flying!


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## That-Guy (Dec 20, 2022)

With the holidays fast approaching, I find that I have less and less time to myself. Between work and wife, I'm a bound and wanted man. Alas, I did get a few hours in the shop this past Sunday so I started on the re-assembly. Things are looking up!!!

First things first; I put the worm gear that nodds the head back in, but not before fumbling the spacer into the column... necessitating a forklift to rescue. I dummbed on that one.




Next was the large casting that holds the head. I'm sure this part has a name, but like a dog, only it knows it lol. The pin the centre was a bit of a bear, but with a dead blow hammer and some choice words I managed. I'll tell you that a second set of hands would have been a boon here!





At this point, my need for shine got hold of me, as I forgot to polish the angle ring on this part before it was installed so I did that before the head casting install.

Now that head casting.... what a bear. You know how you can get yourself into a spot where if you move anything, bad things are GOING to happen. Well I did just that. I fought with it for about 30 minutes to line up the 4 wandering tee bolts, almost dropping it twice. 







For those with a keen eye, you will notice that while the head casting is on, I failed math. Order of operations was imperative here and the thrill of seeing it together blinded me.







 I had forgotten the worm for rocking the head side to side. At this point, more choice words, and a coffee break.






Ahh that's better! Next was the shaft that passes through the head for the quill feed.






And the clutch assembly.







Then I figured I would drop in the feed drive gears, which was a little premature and I had to pop them back out of the way to get feed transmission assembly installed, but no bother.













A couple of set screws to lock the bronze bushing into place, and not too tight as to distort them. Then these tiny little locksets. 






I got more and more ahead of myself and wound up starting on the quill depth stop. most of this can stay, but some of it cannot. There is a ring that bolts to the quill and has to slip over the depth adjuster. So that will have to come back off. The power feed/fine feed wheel assembly can stay though. 










This next photo is when I stopped and got myself a cold one. When I was putting together the mechanism that transfers the motion of the depth control up to the lock lever, I managed to slip and hit my paint.... There was pain. I gave up for the day.







Next I will get started on the spindle bearings. This may or may not happen before Xmas. If that is the case, I wish you all a very happy Ho Ho! I've got some time off after christmas so I should be posting before the new year.


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## John Conroy (Dec 20, 2022)

Looks like British Racing Green was the color of choice!


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## That-Guy (Dec 20, 2022)

John Conroy said:


> Looks like British Racing Green was the color of choice!


Well, it certainly is close!


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