# My Mini machine upgrades



## Bofobo (Dec 16, 2016)

So with the closing of my lighting season just a few days away, I decided to take some time and address some issues with my mini machines so I'm ready for hobby season. 

I started with adjusting the gibs on my ct704's compound and cross slide, the "back side" was lifting off the bed slightly when moving the compound so tolerance was out the window.  
Then it is time to address the ct605's feed and fine feed mechanism, to start that off I wanted a Knob on the dial so I made one. 

And over then next few days I will adjust some of the backlash out of the headstock on the X2 in the feed mechanism components. 

Teaser "shim"

Ps images rotated dunno why


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## Bofobo (Dec 28, 2016)

I am realizing I'm bad with taking pictures during projects, but here is how I fixed most of the backlash on the cx605.  When I bought the thing new it had metal banding keeping things together. I picked up a shop tip from you tube (who I cannot recall) where they cut the banding into strips for shim stock, kept nice and neat in the "r8 Bridgeport styled removal bolt cover" (bolt protector cup) and it just so  happens that 2 of these is just perfect for the build out I needed to eliminate the gear mis alignment. I used 8 pre cut pieces and moved the milling head up and down manually while I fiddled with keeping them where I needed them to stay. In the end I used grease as a glue and things are much more controlled on the dial


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## Bofobo (Jan 8, 2017)

We'll I've stopped my work here as a result of the belt drive upgrade I ebayed blowing out the drive belt that came with it and being unsuccessful in locating a supply I have purchased the "my little machine shop.com" version as I already have 2 replacement belts form my mis adventures in v-belt location. I'll add that content here as well. The kit I ordered comes with the gas assist arm and extended range kits included too, after shipping and fairly weak dollar it's a little over $350 but without it my machine is useless as I've already busted the plastic set they build them with.


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## Bofobo (Jan 21, 2017)

So I've received the package from my little machine shop.com. I'm not impressed at all sure it's all there an got here gas as it should have but whoever they have working to manufacture the belt drive pieces is a monkey or high school class.  So I have a pully with metal chunks in the keyway for the motor side because broaching was done prior to the drill and tap operation for the set screw. Basically the rep told me that they are all like that and to bad unless you want to spend a small fortune sending and receiving replacements until you find one manufactured properly. Also many of the edges on the belt conversion were left unbroken and sharp enough to cut your finger right out of the box

NEVER AGAIN WILL I SPEND MY MONEY AT MYLITTLEMACHINESHOP.COM

I'm going to have to attack it with a file and hope I don't mess up the keyway tolerance, and debur it before I attempt to attach it so I don't bleed all over the place.


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## PeterT (Jan 21, 2017)

LMS is typical Asian stuff so with that comes good & not-so-good.

Are you saying the keyway profile is incomplete or the issue is the burr left over from drilling & tapping hole protruding into the keyway? If its just the hole, I'd try is an undersized HSS square bit sharpened edged on the end like a chisel, then just try & plane off that burr. That way every edge is 'safe'. If you go in there with a file chances are greater of removing side material. Another option is put tape on both sides of the file so only the bottom cuts. If the keyway is incomplete, that's a bigger headache. I'd have to think.

De-chamfering the aluminum edges shouldn't be too dramatic. Sometimes files can bite & give undesirable results as a function of the cutting teeth angle & how the file can approach it. (Kind of the mill file issue vs. regular file). But the finest tooth file you have will work best. Pre-paint it with a dark Sharpy & you can see exactly how it progresses.  If its just a bit of sharp edge, wrap some 600 on a piece of scrap square section & knock it down, aluminum is pretty soft. I made myself a whole batch of disposable sanding sticks like this, various grits wet-o-dry with spray adhesive on MDF. I'll take some pics if your'e interested. Dead easy & work nice on aluminum


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## PeterT (Jan 22, 2017)

Some of my el-cheapo homebrew sanding sticks. I cut a batch of sticks from 1/8" or 1/4" thick MDF or hardboard. Then I grab a sheet of common wet-o-dry abrasive paper, spray the back with spray adhesive. Then just position the wood on the sticky side & cut the perimeter with a knife. Flip it over & do the other side. This gives you more life & equalizes the glue joint so prevents warping. You can also go around the edges for that matter but I find the thin side usually lets go. The spray adhesive stands up pretty good, but just be careful with liquids. Water will swell MDF & fluids like WD40 (which works good on aluminum) can act as a solvent & loosen the glue. Popsicle sticks & tongue depressors seemed like a good idea but I find for the most part they are slightly curved. You could use aluminum strips for that matter but I use these on the lathe & would rather impale my hand or fling a projectile of wood vs. metal. To remove old paper, acetone usually removes it clean & you can get some life out of the wood. Keep in mind for those 1-off jobs where regular tools don't work.


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## Bofobo (Jan 28, 2017)

So now well into the re build I discover that more of my kit parts are incomplete ... There is an unthreaded rod end and the block designed to hold the head stock is 10mm short of the specified length. This smaller one aligned the holes with the bolts joining the 2head stock pieces. FMLMS.com


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## Bofobo (Dec 22, 2017)

Glad this thread still exists, but its a good time on and well ... this happened. HoHoHo


 i learned a ton from this project like how to cutting glass and magnetic strip orientation are important. 

I totaly ordered one of my scales absurdly long at 500mm but after looking at the per unit price to order another, i opted to opener up and look inside . What i found was simple glass held in alum channel with bits of rubber string and a "pick up". Resize and run with it ... oops should have tested first as i encountered the magneic strips orientation is important at the first test ... not pre test, final assembaly test.


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## RobinHood (Dec 22, 2017)

So you were able the successfully shorten a glass scale to the length you needed? Does it still work well? You mentioned the magnetic strip; I guess it is inside the glass tube for protection from grime? Did you take a picture before you assembled it? Sorry for all the questions: never had one apart and am curious.

Am thinking about putting a DRO on my mill - big decision point is how long do the scales need to be. Seems that if one can modify them (well, shorten them) then that makes it a bit easier as far as choosing the length. Just as long as I get them long enough...


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## Bofobo (Dec 22, 2017)

I will snap some pics of the spare parts, i was also concerned about scale lengths and over measured for fear of coming up short, and luckly its not quite rocket appliences but pretty close. Basicaly a magnetic strip is laid on a glass plate and the pickup is just a fancy roller skate that glides along it, glass cutter makes proper sizing easy and a super small tap for the end caps when cutting the channel length. 100% custom if you order oversized scales and cut to length ... price from ebay to my place was close to $400 all in for full 3axis, delivered in about a week via DHL


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## Alexander (Dec 22, 2017)

Cool project. I would never have thought to cut it shorter. These DRO kits are a big investment but they make machining parts less stressful.


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## Bofobo (Dec 22, 2017)

I thought the same. But when the price of a single scale from the same seller was half again what i paid already it was science or spend lol


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## RobinHood (Dec 22, 2017)

Thanks for the info. Awaiting pictures - no rush though....


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## Bofobo (Dec 22, 2017)

I dont have any rubber string left to show yet, i used it as cheap insurance in the other scales. But it keeps the glass upright with pressure and some kind of silicone glue. I went with the full function rather than the single scale X3 with individual screens because i watched others on youtube do that system and the track is so exposed and requires the same amount of space for mounting, although the long travel kit already installed played a huge part as it frees up a whole side of the mill, otherwise i would have still gone full function 2 axis for bolt hole circles more specifically.  This is a section of the glass i likely chipped and scratched taking it apart like a troglodyte, and did drop once thats why its two pieces, but still works it seems


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## RobinHood (Dec 23, 2017)

Thanks for sharing the pics Bofobo! Much appreciated.

From the aluminum cross section it almost looks like there could be another row of wipers installed below the yellow ones you have. I wonder if is the difference between a Mitutoyo, ACU-RITE, etc, and the more economically priced ones?


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## Bofobo (Dec 23, 2017)

Well i searched  Mitutoyo Dro on ebay and i can tell you from this picture 


  That the insides are exactly the same ... if i were to disassemble mine and do a side by side photo you could not tell any difference. 

the accu-rite ones look of a different style altogether, it appears also that 2 types of connections are available. Also some you tubers have made mention of cutting to size this style 


but ive not done it to confirm


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## Johnwa (Dec 23, 2017)

I’ve cut one of the igaging style to length.  It was a simple hacksaw job.


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## Bofobo (Dec 23, 2017)

Those are imbeded in aluminum john?


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## Johnwa (Dec 23, 2017)

It’s  steel but it isn’t hardened.


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## RobinHood (Dec 23, 2017)

That’s great stuff to know. I’ll just make sure the scales are long enough and cut them to length if required. Thanks everybody.


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## kylemp (Dec 26, 2017)

RobinHood said:


> So you were able the successfully shorten a glass scale to the length you needed? Does it still work well? You mentioned the magnetic strip; I guess it is inside the glass tube for protection from grime? Did you take a picture before you assembled it? Sorry for all the questions: never had one apart and am curious.
> 
> Am thinking about putting a DRO on my mill - big decision point is how long do the scales need to be. Seems that if one can modify them (well, shorten them) then that makes it a bit easier as far as choosing the length. Just as long as I get them long enough...


There are some videos of people cutting down glass scales on youtube using a diamond wheel and feeding slow with good success, even with a dremel..
I've put a few on my machines and if you give yourself another inch or two when ordering you'll have lots.


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## PeterT (Dec 27, 2017)

I'm not up to speed on glass, but this outfit seems to get good reviews & they have lots of useful sizing/installation info. They offer both glass & a mag based scale (plus various DRO boxes). I get the impression mag based tracks can be cut/joined/modified. http://www.dropros.com/DRO_PROS_Digital_Readout_Magnetic_Scale.htm


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## Bofobo (Jan 8, 2019)

I am patiently awaiting my newest modification to arrive in the mail, but before it did i was finally able to piece together this cutter 


i bought this thinking it was a complete unit but it was not to be. I even ordered extra inserts first time


and i now have a backup cutting head, because who knows its machining 




Then i will be removing the original motor and controller assembly 


and i am unsure if i will be re using or making a new belt drive but the general configuration will remain the same 


and installing a digital speed readout. These are to serve as the before photos. I cannot wait to see the power!


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## Bofobo (Mar 10, 2019)

Here is the start of my motor upgrade. Using scraps and the basic plan of the little machine shop belt drive kit, i tried to use the mill to start the work. 



Cutting to general size 



Making the taller risers






Then i removed the chuck and swapped the face plate on, my first use of such a contraption






 I placed a flat piece of 1/2” aluminum behind as backing and used the clamp kit i got for the mill to secure it. It was not wobbly and although i didnt take a photo my method of centering was to press the dead center into my pilot hole and it remained in place until i was fully secure 



Made my cut with my home brew boaring bar and back to the mill


for this adjustment slot 


this plate here is the mounting face for the treadmill motor, the following photo is the releaf i needed for securing the motor to my new plate, here i am clamped down to freehand my bolt hole circle (due to clearance and odd shape BHC function was not useful) 






I needed a belt pully so i sacrificed the cast iron fly wheel pully for the pully part 






 This finished the hard parts, and wires and that head ache started 

















So the Dora pencil box worked out nicely and will set this machines name for all time. Next came the “brain” box and it looks like this 





and the final bit was the speed sensor location selection, which was conveniently pre drilled as a holder bar from MLMS.com but i have a push button device for that purpose so i stuffed it


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## Dabbler (Mar 10, 2019)

well done!


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## Bofobo (Mar 13, 2019)

Realizing i had missed completed photos ....


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## YYCHM (Mar 13, 2019)

How many HP is that now?  

I see you're not shy about hanging a big vise on that thing.  I have been looking at that one for my mill as well.


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## Bofobo (Mar 13, 2019)

The motor has 2.25hp on its sticker but the belt will slip long before i use it all. Its ok on the level of drill press vise’s but im looking at an off shore 3” kurt type, without the swivel base it should sit the same height, even with the long travel kit space is at a premium so i could not go any larger. I picked up one from kms but it was 4” jaw kurt type and much to large. I have a smaller toolmakers vice as well but this one has not moved since i trammed the head and dialled it in i am not making anything for aerospace but its within a few thou


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## Brian H (Apr 1, 2019)

Bofobo said:


> We'll I've stopped my work here as a result of the belt drive upgrade I ebayed blowing out the drive belt that came with it and being unsuccessful in locating a supply I have purchased the "my little machine shop.com" version as I already have 2 replacement belts form my mis adventures in v-belt location. I'll add that content here as well. The kit I ordered comes with the gas assist arm and extended range kits included too, after shipping and fairly weak dollar it's a little over $350 but without it my machine is useless as I've already busted the plastic set they build them with.





Bofobo said:


> View attachment 1308View attachment 1310View attachment 1311View attachment 1308 So I've received the package from my little machine shop.com. I'm not impressed at all sure it's all there an got here gas as it should have but whoever they have working to manufacture the belt drive pieces is a monkey or high school class.  So I have a pully with metal chunks in the keyway for the motor side because broaching was done prior to the drill and tap operation for the set screw. Basically the rep told me that they are all like that and to bad unless you want to spend a small fortune sending and receiving replacements until you find one manufactured properly. Also many of the edges on the belt conversion were left unbroken and sharp enough to cut your finger right out of the box
> 
> NEVER AGAIN WILL I SPEND MY MONEY AT MYLITTLEMACHINESHOP.COM
> 
> I'm going to have to attack it with a file and hope I don't mess up the keyway tolerance, and debur it before I attempt to attach it so I don't bleed all over the place.


Wow.
I had quite the opposite experience. I just posted about the one I received today (belt drive conversion) and it was a thing of beauty. I did so with minimal expectations, but, similar to you, I didn't have alot of options for repair and I'm very happy with what I got


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