Hendey T&G Lathe

[Rauce]

I flipped the bed over every which way to finish cleaning as much of the paint off as possible the other night. The bed is now done and ready to go for grinding whenever that happens.



Then I got into the headstock. The spindle has to come out to put new belts in and removing all that stuff for now will also make cleaning and painting easier. It was a a bit of puzzle but didn’t take me too long.





I loaded up the base, chip pan and headstock last night to bring in to work today. The base and chip pan are getting bead blasted. The headstock will go in the big ultrasonic cleaner to get the grime off and hopefully some of the paint (caustic solution).



On another note, does anyone know how to turn images right side up? They’re in the correct orientation on my phone before uploading and I can’t seem to find a way to change it on the forum once they’re uploaded…

 

[Rauce]

Got it blasted on Friday and did a bit of filling and sanding yesterday.

I was originally going to do a mix of brush and rattlecan with tremclad and when I told my painter friend that plan he was adamant I should let him handle it lol

He came by today with a spray gun to lay down some high fill primer on the base. Other than my mastercrap compressor tripping the thermal overload in the heat today all went well. I’m going to do some more sanding and filling if necessary this afternoon and he may come back to do a seal coat of primer tonight.

 

[Canadium]

I was originally going to do a mix of brush and rattlecan with tremclad and when I told my painter friend that plan he was adamant I should let him handle it lol

I hate brush coats. No matter how hard I try it never looks acceptable to me. A roller on flat surfaces can be acceptable. I started experimenting with HVLP last year and totally loved it.

 

[Rauce]

I hate brush coats. No matter how hard I try it never looks acceptable to me. A roller on flat surfaces can be acceptable. I started experimenting with HVLP last year and totally loved it.

I had planned to use some combination of brush and roller on the base and then spray the smaller pieces with cans. We brush paint most stuff at work and it usually looks okay, I think the inconsistent surface of castings and the brush pattern sort of blend together to look okay...

I don't much about paint chemistry but my friends main issue with my plan was using enamel paint. He explained that enamel paints are not very resistant to oils or temperature changes over time so if I wanted the paint on my machine to hold up in the long term a two part finish would be superior.

 

[Canadium]

I don't much about paint chemistry but my friends main issue with my plan was using enamel paint. He explained that enamel paints are not very resistant to oils or temperature changes over time so if I wanted the paint on my machine to hold up in the long term a two part finish would be superior.

Thats interesting! I wonder if he's using hardener? Other types of paints are either very hazardous to use, expensive or just hard to find.

 

[Susquatch]

I started experimenting with HVLP last year and totally loved it.

Which one did you get?

 

[Rauce]

Thats interesting! I wonder if he's using hardener? Other types of paints are either very hazardous to use, expensive or just hard to find.

I believe the top coat will be a polyurethane type paint. Not sure what the primer is.

He paints motorcycles, bicycle frames, custom signage etc. for a living. The covers for the base and any other small stuff will be done in his booth.

 

[Canadium]

Which one did you get?

I just started with a bunch of Princess Auto sale specials ( I never pay full price for anything unless its really really unavoidable). Nothing expensive but they worked beautifully. I did loads of research on the subject before redoing my lathes last year but in the end still feel like I don't know much about it. This was my Youtube inspiration,

The whole field of old machinery repainting/restoration is a study unto itself. As far as I know there is no modern authoritative treatise on the subject. Just a shite load of personal opinions on the net. So any time I see an experienced pro repainting old machinery my ears are wide open to hearing all the details of how they did it.

 

[PeterT]

If I was painting a machine, I would consider Endura & use their dedicated catalyzed primer/sealer. The system is used extensively in harsh mechanical/chemical environments but can be bought in reasonable volumes. But (like most tough finishes) it contains isocyanates & requires using respirator. Mostly I have sprayed it as its prescribed with reducer but on some projects I didn't really care about finish (example engine test stand), I just used roller & brush. Its viscosity isn't quite as thick as say Tremclad, but I think it could work on a machine. Another option is their 2K spray bombs but you are committed to using the can basically in a session because the catalyst is activated. I have a buddy that does this on is race car components & just cant be bothered to get the gun & compressor out. His finish on panels, roll bars.. stuff like that, looks better than any metalworking machine I've seen. Paint is getting really spendy these days so choose wisely. Don't put good paint on crappy primer because you just don't have the proper adhesion base.

Endura Paint - Leading manufacturer of epoxy and polyurethane

Endura is a manufacturer of high performance polyurethane and epoxy industrial coatings. Product lines include, industrial paint systems, easy clean anti-graffiti coatings and environmentally friendly primers and topcoats.

www.endurapaint.com

 

[Canadium]

If I was painting a machine, I would consider Endura & use their dedicated catalyzed primer/sealer. The system is used extensively in harsh mechanical/chemical environments but can be bought in reasonable volumes. But (like most tough finishes) it contains isocyanates & requires using respirator. ......

Endura Paint - Leading manufacturer of epoxy and polyurethane

Endura is a manufacturer of high performance polyurethane and epoxy industrial coatings. Product lines include, industrial paint systems, easy clean anti-graffiti coatings and environmentally friendly primers and topcoats.

www.endurapaint.com

A case in point. By all accounts I have read many of the nice durable automotive paints use isocyanates. Also have read that some people have poisoned themselves with these evn though they wore respirators and were experienced painters. Not clear to me how I would get this stuff in Ontario?

 

[PeterT]

I Googled 'Endura & Ontario' & it came back with a few hits. Sorry I assumed it was a bit more wide spread, but maybe a bit more niche to our local industries. Its been around Calgary & Edmonton for decades but that doesn't do you much good. Kind of weird because I know its used in FS aviation quite a bit too. I can't comment on the isocyanates stories anymore than obvious wisdom: always read the SDS, cross reference to appropriate PPG. If you still don't feel safe, don't use it. That goes for any chemical or substances.

Directory - Endura Paint

www.endurapaint.com

Endura Paint

High performance polyurethane and epoxy coatings. Product lines include, industrial paint systems, easy clean anti-graffiti coatings and environmentally friendly primers and topcoats.

www.rayplex.ca

 

[Canadium]

If not the exact same product then similar ones must also be available in Ontario. Not as easily accessible though to the home consumer as the ubiquitous Tremclad. Probably with good reason because they are very expensive and very dangerous to use. Isocyanates can be absorbed through the skin and since a respirator only covers a small fraction of a persons total skin area it won't prevent poisoning even if the respirator is perfect which it probably isn't. You would need a full body covering and a very well ventilated application area.

 

[Mcgyver]

I don't bother painting most machines, scrape and get them performing like new, but paint? They end up looking like crap after couple of years of coolant and chips anyway.

....but

If I was going to, I think POR-15 is the stuff to use. Anything else that tough, i.e. two part urethane full of isocyanates are potentially deadly. No joke, some people have an extreme intolerance to them, for others the intolerance accumulates over time. To spray professionally, we'd need to provide a positive pressure suit and have the painter get regular medical checks ups. That's the law. A respirator is not enough, you need a suit to avoid skin contact as its just as absorbed that way - OHSA as readily as if breathing it.

Why Are Isocyanates so Dangerous? | Global Finishing Solutions

Paint booths are not capable of protecting painters faces and bodies from exposure to hazardous chemicals and fumes while spraying.

globalfinishing.com

Here's a handy little guide - How to prevent death when spraying it

https://www.votechsafety.net/techs/sites/default/files/inline-files/WA_LNI_TruckLinersGuide2004.pdf

This is not safety nazi stuff. You might use it and be fine, but its seriously bad stuff not to be trifled with.

(afaik) that not the case with POR-15, ....but its supposed to be as tough as the fleet paints like Imron. Its got a short life once you open the can, is expensive and only comes in limited colours and a few other fussy things ......but afaik it is the only paint that would give you an Imron like toughness and is feasible to apply at home. I think you'd want to suit up to spray it, but many get good results with a good brush. Anything less tough, I don't think it will last.

 

[Canadium]

I don't bother painting most machines, scrape and get them performing like new, but paint? They end up looking like crap after couple of years of coolant and chips anyway.

....but

If I was going to, I think POR-15 is the stuff to use.

Firstly I was a bit taken aback a little while ago when I found a really good YouTube video relevant to my South Bend where the guy had completely stripped all the paint from his lathe and left it naked! It just violated all my preconceived notions about machinery. The more I thought about it though the more I thought it wasn't such a bad idea and wondered if I shouldn't do the same with my lathe!

Secondly regarding POR 15 I'm wondering what the best source would be? Amazon?

 

[DavidR8]

Firstly I was a bit taken aback a little while ago when I found a really good YouTube video relevant to my South Bend where the guy had completely stripped all the paint from his lathe and left it naked! It just violated all my preconceived notions about machinery. The more I thought about it though the more I thought it wasn't such a bad idea and wondered if I shouldn't do the same with my lathe!

Secondly regarding POR 15 I'm wondering what the best source would be? Amazon?

I used to be able to get POR-15 at Napa. That was years ago mind you so maybe not now.

 

[Mcgyver]

"The Naked Lathe"

sounds like a youtube channel.

If I remember, on the POR-15, there is a distributor in Montreal, but it might be more widely available. I should emphasize I haven't used it, but did a lot of looking at one point for the ultimate machine paint and that was it. I was that or lug everything to some place that would spray Imron.

 

[Susquatch]

"The Naked Lathe"

sounds like a youtube channel.

If I remember, on the POR-15, there is a distributor in Montreal, but it might be more widely available. I should emphasize I haven't I haven't used it, but did a lot looking at one point for the ultimate machine paint and that was it. I was that or lug everything to some place that would spray Imron.

I like it..... "The Naked Lathe"...... I like it a LOT!

 

[Rauce]

There's must be a POR-15 distributor in Canada, you can buy the POR-15 rust convertor at crappy tire. It's not cheap but supposed to be the best for that application. I bought some to do the frame on my tacoma (I bought it second hand outside of the frame recall/warranty period) but ended up selling the truck before I could get around to it. The frame was sound but I had wanted to be sure it would last. If anyone needs a can at a discount let me know! haha

I do agree that repainting a machine is often more trouble than it's worth. In this case I decided to do it because the last time it was painted it was done very badly. There was paint flaking off all over and the large components were very grimy. Bead blasting the base and the chip pan dealt with the grime and the peeling paint. I found that the original paint underneath was very well adhered, they must have used a quality product. Similarly the original finish on the inside of the bed and gearboxes is in good condition and I won't be touching it. The only place where the original finish had been worn through was on parts of the bed and the pan that see a lot of chips.

 

[DavidR8]

There's must be a POR-15 distributor in Canada, you can buy the POR-15 rust convertor at crappy tire. It's not cheap but supposed to be the best for that application. I bought some to do the frame on my tacoma (I bought it second hand outside of the frame recall/warranty period) but ended up selling the truck before I could get around to it. The frame was sound but I had wanted to be sure it would last. If anyone needs a can at a discount let me know! haha

I do agree that repainting a machine is often more trouble than it's worth. In this case I decided to do it because the last time it was painted it was done very badly. There was paint flaking off all over and the large components were very grimy. Bead blasting the base and the chip pan dealt with the grime and the peeling paint. I found that the original paint underneath was very well adhered, they must have used a quality product. Similarly the original finish on the inside of the bed and gearboxes is in good condition and I won't be touching it. The only place where the original finish had been worn through was on parts of the bed and the pan that see a lot of chips.

Home Page POR 15

por15canada.ca

 

[Rauce]

The base is painted, bed goes for grinding tomorrow.



Been working on the headstock, cleaning, filling and priming.



Once the bed is back it’s next up for paint and I can move the lathe into its position in the garage.