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Hendey T&G Lathe

There seems to be a lot of tags and labels on the back of the headstock. Does this give you a bit of the machine's history?

Craig
 
So here’s the check I was talking about earlier to look at wear on the carriage ways.

This is the only V block I have the sits on the ways without bottoming out on the flat. I initially checked to the narrow flat edge on the top and then I thought it may be more accurate to put a dowel in the top V to check height at the center.

On the back V way I see about .004” total variation. On the front I can’t get at the whole length yet because the apron is in the way but I suspect the total will be .005-.006”.

To check the reference surface here (the flat ways) I put a 36” Starrett straight edge on them and shined a flashlight on one side and looked for light. I saw nothing, so for good measure I put a .001” feeler under one end of the straight edge and checked again and could see a bit of light so I’m confident the flat ways are near factory spec.

The next check I want to do is with a test bar. I have a ground 3MT test bar I bought off eBay for my last lathe but I’ll need a reducer to put it in the larger spindle bore on this lathe.

I did take a look at tailstock alignment while it was still on and found it was sitting .007” low. I suspect this may be because this lathe had the headstock replaced with one off another machine.
 

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It was definitely originally sold to the navy but it has other stickers on it for I think the USDA.

It was bought from a government auction in WA about 10 years ago by a guy in Montana. He had it stored in someone’s barn for years and when he finally went to see it he found the headstock was cracked like something had fallen on it in storage.

The guy I bought it from picked it up mainly for the taper attachment and replaced the headstock with one from his other parts machine.

Except for the taper attachment it’s complete and fully functional, I saw it run when I picked it up. The replacement headstock casting doesn’t line up with the other castings perfectly though.

The previous owner actually has original drawings for the taper attachment so if I’m feeling ambitious I could make one eventually.
 
Amazing work, @Rauce. Speaking as a guy who has plans to refurb/clean some machines, and said machines have already been sitting in my shop for years, I'm particularly impressed with how quick you're getting into the nitty gritty!

Definitely putting Cardon Tools down as a must-visit next time I visit my folks in Ottawa.
 
Amazing work, @Rauce. Speaking as a guy who has plans to refurb/clean some machines, and said machines have already been sitting in my shop for years, I'm particularly impressed with how quick you're getting into the nitty gritty!

Definitely putting Cardon Tools down as a must-visit next time I visit my folks in Ottawa.
I think the best time to do it is right when you get it!

The last few machines I’ve acquired I disassembled and gave them a good clean/minor mechanical repairs but no paint or any refinishing of precision surfaces.

This time I want to do it all the way since I know full well I won’t take it completely apart for many years.
 
Progress will slow now that the big weekend is done and I’m back to work and have other projects to wrap up.

I took the tarp off this evening, put some tools away and gave everything another coating of fluidfilm.

I did pull out the carriage, gave it a quick cleaning and got it on the surface plate for some inspection.

I sat it on dowel pins on top of 1-2-3 blocks to get the necessary clearance. No rocking even though it’s on 4 points.

I swept the flat part of the cross slide ways and there was no variation detectable from end to end in the direction of travel with a .0005” indicator. There was a .004” difference in height between the two but that’s somewhat irrelevant provided the upper component matches.

I measured across the dovetails with small dowel pins and a Micrometer. There was .0014” total variation but not trending in any particular variation. If you look at the image I marked up the two red lines are the smallest measurements and the rest are within .0005”.

Pretty happy with this, I don’t think
I’ll have to do any scraping on the cross slide, just a good cleaning and a light stoning.
 

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I took the tarp off this evening, put some tools away and gave everything another coating of fluidfilm.

That fluid film is good for a solid 6 months. I first heard about it from the City Maintenance Crew. They coat all their snow removal equipment with it to stop it from rusting outside over the summer. I figured if it worked for their salt laden equipment it would work for my farm equipment. And it has.

Nice to see your baby showing its lineage.
 
Good to see the trip went well. If you're looking for a 5" 3 jaw, HH Roberts has NOS Bison with a screw on backing plate. Remove the screw on backing plate and fit a D1-4 backing plate and away you go.
Can't go wrong for $190 cdn if the 5" will do you.
 
Good to see the trip went well. If you're looking for a 5" 3 jaw, HH Roberts has NOS Bison with a screw on backing plate. Remove the screw on backing plate and fit a D1-4 backing plate and away you go.
Can't go wrong for $190 cdn if the 5" will do you.
I can't believe they still have stock.
 
Good to see the trip went well. If you're looking for a 5" 3 jaw, HH Roberts has NOS Bison with a screw on backing plate. Remove the screw on backing plate and fit a D1-4 backing plate and away you go.
Can't go wrong for $190 cdn if the 5" will do you.
Wow, do you know if the 6” Atlas 4 jaw they have can also be swapped for D1-4?

I tend to use a 4 jaw more often so I think that should be by first chuck purchase.
 
Wow, do you know if the 6” Atlas 4 jaw they have can also be swapped for D1-4?

I tend to use a 4 jaw more often so I think that should be by first chuck purchase.

I'll take the threaded backplate off your hands:p
 
Its funny, I pulled the saddle off my 10ee today and did the same thing. Mine has similar wear, nothing serious.
 
Next thing I want to do aside from continuing with disassembly is check the headstock alignment.

I have a MT3 test bar I bought on eBay a couple years ago when I set up my last lathe. I couldn’t remember how good it was so I reinspected it tonight. No more than a tenth anywhere I checked it. Incredible for something that I don’t think cost me more than $50.

I ordered a mt5-3 sleeve on Amazon so I can put this in the spindle and popped it on the test bar to check runout. I was getting 5-9 tenths depending on the orientation I installed the sleeve. I think this will do for now but I might invest in a MT5 test bar as well. A bit more expensive but if it’s just as good as this one I already have then it will be worth it.
 

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