I dont think that 500 is a sufficient temp for a proper burnout cycle. If I remember correctly, 1150 if what the typical temp is to burnout all remittance of leftover soot.
although this is not mine, I have printed one of these. Just need to put the shroud on, and it will be fully functional.
printed in two pieces. I have 390mm's of Z height which has increased recently with the purchase of new linear rails to probably around 480mm. this is a rough estimate though.
View attachment 3415
Hey @TorontoBuilder i see you’re another IT guy named john there are a lot of us. Welcome to the forum. I was looking at your thingiverse models. The air engraver is interesting. Do you have any photos of results using that tool?I have an Ender 3 Max.
Upgraded with a BL touch.
I plan to modify to direct drive extruder using existing components, and I will get a magnetic build plate with PEI for printing petg. I hated tape. Also building an enclosure based on 3 lack coffee tables and sonopan sound insulation.
I typically design all my own parts, but I do troll thingiverse for standard items that I can print immediately.
I have a thingiverse account with a few designs up already. I'll be adding many more and am open to helping others with modeling or modifications if the project is cool.
No photos yet of the results engraving with it yet. I've only printed it up, reamed the two bores, one to fit the "piston" and the other to fit the tool holders. I tested it without tool holders and it seems to work fine. The ball bearing impacts consistently and has force I'd expect.
I have two right now; both are Crealitys - and Ender3 PRO (loaned by close friend) and a CR-6 MAX (max for the increased bed size of 400mm x 400mm x 400mm or ~ a 15 5/8" cube).
Ender3 PRO - friend works international and wouldn't be travelling home enough w/ COVID to use his printer - printer came w/ some small issues
Creality Touch (copy of BL Touch I believe)
Silent Motherboard (phenomenal, 100% recommend)
MicroSwiss direct drive (an aluminum, machined extruder/head base plate was the most attractive component)
LED lighting for the upper (horizontal) brace
No mods - I set the machine up on Boxing day and I try to keep it running 24/7; only problems I've had are adjustment/wear issues and the voltage on the adapter board (in the head, one of the item it controls is the strain gauge/auto-levelling sensor - Creality shipped replacement under warranty w/o issue, machine still works although voltage is out of spec).
I've printed about 8 kg worth of spool since Christmas between the two machines - the friend was impressed at the difference of quality between our products that were both printed on his Ender3... it's my belief that welding experience and the familiarity w/ tuning settings for MIG welding (like big, $25k Miller multi-process machines that have infinitely variable settings) gave me an advantage... I think anyone that has a reasonable grasp on the effects that voltage, IPM/amperage, travel speed, etc. have would quickly adapt to adjusting the settings on a 3D printer. It's likely also true that anyone who can CNC machine can make the 3D printer do it's thing and anyone that can 3D CAD likely design/slice but I can't CNC machine nor am I qualified as a 3D CAD designer so take that w/ a grain of salt.
I invite you to please post a note with the machines you own and what you think about them