Sticky What Machines Do You have?

[YotaBota]

Hi folks,
I'd like to introduce you to Chip and Dale. They are a good match since both have the same spindle thread and can use all the same tooling.
Chip is my 9" Utilathe that I bought a few months ago from a dealer in Langley BC. It came from one of the local schools so the head stock is noisy and the compound and cross slide are a bit beat up but nothing to serious. I don't think the chuck had ever been removed because it stuck like it had been crazy glued. I ended up putting the spindle with the backing plate in the freezer over night and then hit straight from the freezer to the vice and used the propane torch on the backing plate to get it free. I bolted a bar across two of the holes in the backing plat to get some leverage and that worked. I can't believe how much easier things are having a gearbox to change feed rates and do threading. I bought an AXA tool post set from Accusize and so far it fits well.
Next is Dale, my 9" Logan model 400. I bought Dale on a pallet, then cleaned and painted it up real purty. It needs a couple of bushings in the apron but other than that it's in pretty good shape. It came with all the change gears, a spindle mount Jacobs chuck and sad 3 Jaw chuck and a few other bits and pieces. I bought a set of collets and made a closer with ready rod and an old 3" handle I had around. At moment I have milling attachment on it for a project starting shortly (carriage stop). I kept the Accusize OXA tool post from the 618 Atlas and it's right on the edge of being to small. What doesn't work here will be done on the SM.

 

[LittleGhostTown]

I have great intentions but seem to collect the tools and not use them lol. I have a Taig mini lathe with what seems like way too many attachments - made a few brass and silver minis and Sherline Mini mill which I bought but has never been used. Silversmithing and metalwork making miniatures is what I enjoy and would like to get back doing more of it as I got sidetracked sculpting with silver more than turning it!

 

[JohnnyTK]

I have great intentions but seem to collect the tools and not use them lol. I have a Taig mini lathe with what seems like way too many attachments - made a few brass and silver minis and Sherline Mini mill which I bought but has never been used. Silversmithing and metalwork making miniatures is what I enjoy and would like to get back doing more of it as I got sidetracked sculpting with silver more than turning it!

My wife has this kit waiting for me to assemble for her miniatures. I spend most of my time picking up tools, also have to get using them.

 

[DavidR8]

At the moment I have a 1973 South Bend 10K that I bought in Dec. It still has scraping marks all along the ways.

I also have a Millermatic MIG welder and I’m saving for a mill.

I have lots of woodworking machines, my favourite being a 1965 Rockwell Unisaw that I scored for $200 [emoji16]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DPittman]

Nice machinery, especially that lathe. What do you plan to get for a mill?

 

[DavidR8]

@DPittman I’m not sure yet but I’m leaning toward a bench top mill because of space constraints.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DPittman]

@DPittman I’m not sure yet but I’m leaning toward a bench top mill because of space constraints.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I dream of a milling machine also and space is a major consideration for me also. I know bigger and heavier is usually a good thing when it comes to metal machinery but fitting that in is not always easy. I have a floor drill press and am thinking I might be able to eliminate that if I got a decent sized milling machine?

 

[YYCHM]

I thought my mill/drill would eliminate my drill press. It hasn't, the press is just too convenient for those quick drilling jobs and wood.

 

[DPittman]

I thought my mill/drill would eliminate my drill press. It hasn't, the press is just too convenient for those quick drilling jobs and wood.

Unfortunately that's not the first time I've heard that comment.

 

[jcdammeyer]

Also I don't think wood dust and metal chips along with oil on the machine ways mix all that well.

 

[Johnwa]

........Moved to right correct thread......

 

[DavidR8]

At this point I’m leaning toward the King KC-20VS-2.

https://m.kmstools.com/king-industrial-3-4-milling-drilling-machine-with-digital-readout-149103

I’ve looked at the KC-15VS and I just don’t think it’s big enough to do much more than aluminum. Though I did see a decent mod where a fellow built a base from 5/8” steel and welded a 1/4”x6” square tube the height of the column.
The bolted the mill column to the steel.
The difference in rigidity was significant.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dusty]

Another method is filling up the end of the spindle with dry ice. It may contract enough to get the chuck loose.

Did you not want this post under the Stuck Chuck Atlas Lathe thread.....? Just saying.

 

[Johnwa]

Yup, don’t know how that happed![emoji2959]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[jcdammeyer]

At this point I’m leaning toward the King KC-20VS-2.

https://m.kmstools.com/king-industrial-3-4-milling-drilling-machine-with-digital-readout-149103

Be aware of one tiny detail that bit me too because my X axis can pivot for horizontal mill features which didn't come with my mill.
The:
Maximum distance from spindle nose to table: 13"
as stated in the specifications vanishes pretty quick once you add some essentials. The R8 is nice and I use Tormach Tool holders so the 1/4" drill chuck with a 5mm drill bit reduces that to a spindle nose to table by 5" So you are now at 8" above the table with a small chuck and drill bit. Throw in a 5/8" Jacobs Ball Bearing chuck and a half inch drill bit and there's only 4" left above the table. And the somewhat precision vise I have is 4" high so you would be just able do 1/2" holes into something held in the vise.

In other words. Select the chuck, max drill you might use (like 1/2" shank, 3/4" diameter) and the machining vise that catches your eye. Reamers also tend to be long unless you cut them down in length.

What you can do is clamp larger drills etc. in R8 collets. But an ER32 collet holder does also stick out.

So my suggestion is specify the largest drill bit you expect to use and find out the total length including the chuck that comes with the mill. Subtract that from the 13". Then find the vise you want to use. There are those low profile drill press vises that are pretty low profile but if they hold the bottom of something how far up is the material above the table.

I removed the rotary part from mine which is like this one:
https://www.kmstools.com/magnum-4-x-4-milling-vise-6379
and still it's 4" high. Mill is 15" spindle to table because of the extra 3" rotary section and with the 5/8" chuck I often find I run out of room. So much as I like my House of Tools mill equivalent to the Grizzly G3616 (discontinued) I wish I had bought something with the same mass but without the pivoting table.

In other words, look at what you intend to mill and how often you are near the top of travel and then look at how strong it is structurally there. You may find that although they've given you a 1/2" chuck that the mill is more suited for a 1/4" or 3/8" chuck.

John

 

[DPittman]

Be aware of one tiny detail that bit me too because my X axis can pivot for horizontal mill features which didn't come with my mill.
The:
Maximum distance from spindle nose to table: 13"
as stated in the specifications vanishes pretty quick once you add some essentials. The R8 is nice and I use Tormach Tool holders so the 1/4" drill chuck with a 5mm drill bit reduces that to a spindle nose to table by 5" So you are now at 8" above the table with a small chuck and drill bit. Throw in a 5/8" Jacobs Ball Bearing chuck and a half inch drill bit and there's only 4" left above the table. And the somewhat precision vise I have is 4" high so you would be just able do 1/2" holes into something held in the vise.

In other words. Select the chuck, max drill you might use (like 1/2" shank, 3/4" diameter) and the machining vise that catches your eye. Reamers also tend to be long unless you cut them down in length.

What you can do is clamp larger drills etc. in R8 collets. But an ER32 collet holder does also stick out.

So my suggestion is specify the largest drill bit you expect to use and find out the total length including the chuck that comes with the mill. Subtract that from the 13". Then find the vise you want to use. There are those low profile drill press vises that are pretty low profile but if they hold the bottom of something how far up is the material above the table.

I removed the rotary part from mine which is like this one:
https://www.kmstools.com/magnum-4-x-4-milling-vise-6379
and still it's 4" high. Mill is 15" spindle to table because of the extra 3" rotary section and with the 5/8" chuck I often find I run out of room. So much as I like my House of Tools mill equivalent to the Grizzly G3616 (discontinued) I wish I had bought something with the same mass but without the pivoting table.

In other words, look at what you intend to mill and how often you are near the top of travel and then look at how strong it is structurally there. You may find that although they've given you a 1/2" chuck that the mill is more suited for a 1/4" or 3/8" chuck.

John

That sounds like good advice...I"'ll have to try to re-read that again if I ever get closer to making a purchase decision.

 

[YYCHM]

By the time I had mounted a RT, adapter plate and chuck I had run out of room to mount a drill bit.
Pictured is a center finder.

 

[jcdammeyer]

By the time I had mounted a RT, adapter plate and chuck I had run out of room to mount a drill bit.
Pictured is a center finder.

I forgot to mention my big rotary table height and that the handle is just a bit proud of the base so it can't sit as far back
What I have used a lot is this smaller one:

Using my ELS to do the indexing.


This is a very small table and has worked well for many projects.
John

 

[jcdammeyer]

Just went down and moved the table to the machine 0.1" location just above the limit switch. Installed the 5/8" chuck and a 3/8" drill bit. No room with the larger rotary table and the 3-Jaw chuck.

I think you can see why that rotating X axis for horizontal milling would be handy if I had the horizontal feature but alas not. So the 15" range gets eaten up pretty quickly.

On the do list after the CNC is complete is a 5" riser between the head and the column. There's enough length on the ways for that.

 

[DavidR8]

Thanks @jcdammeyer, those are really helpful insights.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk