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Other Sears Craftsman Garden Tractor
- Thread starter jcdammeyer
- Start date
Never got that far. As soon as he said that we could make an arrangement on here I realized his English was lacking and wasn't interested in a live view so I sent him an email I was no longer interested. And truthfully, the tractor looked way too nice in the photos for $1100.
So the engine is apart. Well head is still on and piston still in sleeve.
Sure is nice to have all the tools on hand. Gear puller, impact wrench, parts washer although it's a bit small for a complete engine I did manage to wash out the bottom pan.
The aluminum collisions can be clearly seen on the crank weights and the offset bearing has some melted aluminum traces on it. I think 1000 grit paper will probably remove that.
There was a small amount of aluminum dust and grit up by the valve lifters. I think what I'll do is set the entire engine into the parts washer and just flush the top and the push rod clearance holes.
Once it's running again do an oil change after 1 hour and again after 10 and likely that will get rid of all of it that I haven't washed out.
Sure is nice to have all the tools on hand. Gear puller, impact wrench, parts washer although it's a bit small for a complete engine I did manage to wash out the bottom pan.
The aluminum collisions can be clearly seen on the crank weights and the offset bearing has some melted aluminum traces on it. I think 1000 grit paper will probably remove that.
There was a small amount of aluminum dust and grit up by the valve lifters. I think what I'll do is set the entire engine into the parts washer and just flush the top and the push rod clearance holes.
Once it's running again do an oil change after 1 hour and again after 10 and likely that will get rid of all of it that I haven't washed out.
Parts washer question. I've always used Varsol but I have a vague memory of an additive to help wash engine parts. Like 1 part in 20. But searching the net doesn't bring anything particular to mind. A search on the Canadian Tire website doesn't help.
This is the type, although not the brand, of parts washer that I have.
It had old varsol in it and I added some more. Been years.
Anyway, it's time to clean it out and I can either use more Varsol again or maybe something like this instead?
This is the type, although not the brand, of parts washer that I have.
It had old varsol in it and I added some more. Been years.
Anyway, it's time to clean it out and I can either use more Varsol again or maybe something like this instead?
Chicken lights
Forum Pony Express Driver
Even a broken clock is right twice a day, don’t give him too much credit
New issue. The oil seal on the magneto side looks in good shape but the spring retainer that holds the rubber against the shaft popped out. After flailing for 20 minutes trying to get it back around (while the seal is still in place I think I've figured out that it's likely not possible so the best thing to do is order a new one. .
Ah well, only another $9. Ordered the bits and pieces today. The broken balancer arms won't be here until next Saturday so other than a bit of cleaning this part of the project is on hold until then. Meanwhile I can continue to clean the deck and make my own adaptor for the PTO cable.
Ah well, only another $9. Ordered the bits and pieces today. The broken balancer arms won't be here until next Saturday so other than a bit of cleaning this part of the project is on hold until then. Meanwhile I can continue to clean the deck and make my own adaptor for the PTO cable.
Chicken lights
Forum Pony Express Driver
To keep the spring in place, pack the seal with Vaseline or grease, unless you just happen to have tranny assembly grease. Keeps the spring in place while you install it
Only damaged the back part removing it. The actual seal surface is still intact but no matter there's a new one on the way. What's puzzling is how the spring came off in the first place.
Hah! Had '64 in the late 90's. That car taught me about cars! Kind of miss it, but never drove after moving to Victoria. Spent all my time on my bike instead.
I keep eyeing MGs on Marketplace.
No. Must. Not. Buy. Another. Project.
Another good reason for a bigger shop! LOL
Easy solution to your dilemma... buy a MG that's ready to roll and enjoy. No addition to project line up, just enjoyment.
Don't forget, a '64 MGB has a straight cut gear for 1st so no synchromesh. You have to be stopped or be really good at double clutching. And speaking of the gearbox. Unlike the Datsun 510 or other newer cards with multiple wedge teeth the MGB had 3 larger tangs. They wore pretty quickly.
However, rebuilding an MGB transmission is an experience I am glad I had. Same with the Datsun which didn't need it but I thought it was fun to do.
However, rebuilding an MGB transmission is an experience I am glad I had. Same with the Datsun which didn't need it but I thought it was fun to do.
This is what they looked like. Not that hard to replace actually.
Yeah, I may be a bit more mechanically competent and adventurous today than I was 25 years ago
And were I to come across a 64-67 MGB in Robin's Egg blue with sound doglegs I might be tempted to do it...
I'd probably get in it for a test drive. Remember all the bad things I have forgotten and bail on the purchase...Yeah, I may be a bit more mechanically competent and adventurous today than I was 25 years ago
And were I to come across a 64-67 MGB in Robin's Egg blue with sound doglegs I might be tempted to do it...
Recall this image for the cable end and what it's supposed to look like.
![1685470738830-png.34969]()
Here's what it looks like in the tractor.
No hook.
Now I knew this would happen since I haven't used the MIG welder in a few years. Couldn't get the feed or current right. Wire kept melting in the nozzle and jamming. Eventually I got enough steady beads to weld the hook onto the metal adaptor I turned on the lathe and slotted on the milling machine.
The hook was a piece of 3/16" steel that I heated with the oxy/accet. torch and did some blacksmithing on to give it the hook and a flat section to go against the flat section milled on the adaptor.
It looked much nicer before I started welding it. I thought about brazing it but the one brass rod I had was covered in crumbly flux and I didn't have any other flux on hand. Guess I could have silver soldered it.
Here's the top view that shows the Letter P hole almost all the way through and the 1/8" hole the rest of the way. Used a slitting saw on the mill to cut the groove for the wire.
And finally with the broken end inserted into the adapter. One the paint dries I'll keep the broken piece inside the adapter with hot melt glue or else epoxy.
It fits through the PTO lever arm and hangs down as it should. Now if I was billing my software/electronic consulting rate I lost a lot of money on this. Heck if I was being paid minimum wage I lost a lot of money on this since the replacement cable is only $26.
But it was fun. Really need to take a MIG welding course. The most disappointing part of the whole thing.
Here's what it looks like in the tractor.
No hook.
Now I knew this would happen since I haven't used the MIG welder in a few years. Couldn't get the feed or current right. Wire kept melting in the nozzle and jamming. Eventually I got enough steady beads to weld the hook onto the metal adaptor I turned on the lathe and slotted on the milling machine.
The hook was a piece of 3/16" steel that I heated with the oxy/accet. torch and did some blacksmithing on to give it the hook and a flat section to go against the flat section milled on the adaptor.
It looked much nicer before I started welding it. I thought about brazing it but the one brass rod I had was covered in crumbly flux and I didn't have any other flux on hand. Guess I could have silver soldered it.
Here's the top view that shows the Letter P hole almost all the way through and the 1/8" hole the rest of the way. Used a slitting saw on the mill to cut the groove for the wire.
And finally with the broken end inserted into the adapter. One the paint dries I'll keep the broken piece inside the adapter with hot melt glue or else epoxy.
It fits through the PTO lever arm and hangs down as it should. Now if I was billing my software/electronic consulting rate I lost a lot of money on this. Heck if I was being paid minimum wage I lost a lot of money on this since the replacement cable is only $26.
But it was fun. Really need to take a MIG welding course. The most disappointing part of the whole thing.
If it holds it's all good.
Aside from practice one of the things that helped my MIG welding was knowing the voltage of the four taps on my little Millermatic. I used a voltmeter to measure the voltage while I held a steady position.
Once I knew the voltage then a chart like this was a huge help to get me in the ballpark. Only so much can be done with four fixed voltage settings but it's a start.
Aside from practice one of the things that helped my MIG welding was knowing the voltage of the four taps on my little Millermatic. I used a voltmeter to measure the voltage while I held a steady position.
Once I knew the voltage then a chart like this was a huge help to get me in the ballpark. Only so much can be done with four fixed voltage settings but it's a start.
Mine's a Lincoln SP-175 Plus MIG welder.
Here's the chart from the inside of the drop down cover. There's one knob for feed and one for voltage. I had it set where it H-9 when I was welding some 1/8" angle iron about a year ago. I think I have CO2 but might also the the ARGON mix.
Here's the chart from the inside of the drop down cover. There's one knob for feed and one for voltage. I had it set where it H-9 when I was welding some 1/8" angle iron about a year ago. I think I have CO2 but might also the the ARGON mix.
