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RF30 Basement Install

You want the two breakers to straddle the divider
15645_0c46c431cb0d1ae67b0db9bed3403c75.jpg
 
whoa, craig -you do NOT use 2 breakers. The breaker you linked to is the wrong breaker. You use a double that is tied together with a bar. It is irresponsible and out of code to use 2 breakers to do a 220V circuit without tyinbg them together.

Better to buy a 'double' in the first place. My offer stands to help you out with this. Asp @PeterT about my work.
 
I know the feeling of wanting to get up & running but have an informed plan & do it right. Yes, take Dabbler up on electrical consultation.
Lots of collective wisdom already contributed but I'm pretty sure you need to run a specific kind of wire from panel to new outlet if its to be mounted external to the wall vs internally?
And there are plugs and there are plugs.
And thus concludes my electrical knowledge which can be conveyed on the back of a stamp with a fat jiffy marker. LoL
 
Dabbler said:
Better to buy a 'double' in the first place.
Click to expand...

Define what you mean by "double" so that I can source the correct breaker. What I linked to is a STAB-LOK® Double Pole 15-Amp Circuit Breaker. I'll get you involved before I purchase anything. I'm still educating myself on how this all works.

Craig
 
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I took a look at the breakers in my garage panel. They look exactly like the one you linked to. They have a metal pin that ties them together. The one you linked to may have it too.
 
Th original Federal double breakers had a bar that snapped into the levers to bridge them. Federal has been out of business for years - the new company that makes the breakers for Stab-loc panels didn't include the bar in the ones I bought recently. They sell a permanently tied double breaker for this purpose. I don't know why.

There should be a tie bar in the package.
 
@Tom O I can't tell from the picture, and I had to return one that wasn't tied - and they look nearly identical. the telltale was the hole through both paddles with a SS tube tying them together.

This may be an updated design. the problem is that if they don't move together (which Craig can check in-store) he needs the Other one... In my instance, I bought 3 breakers from the same lockup bin, looking essentially identical. One of them was wrong. No obvious outside physical difference.

That's why I thought to mention it.
 
Appreciate all the help guys. Learning lots here.

So I need one where you can't throw each poll independently, hence if one trips it will trip the other side mechanically. Does that sound like an accurate description?

@Johnwa your image clarifies it for me. Thanks.
 
Just to throw my 0.02 cents in- you’ll have two hots, (likely red and black), a neutral (usually white) and a bare copper for a ground. It’ll be called 12-3 or 14-3 because nobody counts the ground
 
Chicken lights said:
Just to throw my 0.02 cents in- you’ll have two hots, (likely red and black), a neutral (usually white) and a bare copper for a ground. It’ll be called 12-3 or 14-3 because nobody counts the ground
Click to expand...

I have 12-2 and 14-2? There are only 3 wires going into the FWD-STOP-REV switch.
 
For this motor you only need the two hot lines and ground. The neutral is not used. You therefore only need 14-2 plus the ground.
 
Johnwa said:
For this motor you only need the two hot lines and ground. The neutral is not used. You therefore only need 14-2 plus the ground.
Click to expand...

My 12-2 and 14-2 wire is two insulated wires and a bare ground. Are we talking the same thing here?
 
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