RF30 Basement Install

[YYCHM]

Some thing is not adding up here. I've been weighing everything I strip off this mill with a bathroom scale and came up with this so far.

Motor and mount 60 lbs
Table, screw and gib 83 lbs
Column 98 lbs
Head (sans belt cover) 90 lbs (65 + 25)
Base 70 lbs (50 + 20)
Table Base 30 lbs
Idler assy, Y screw, Y gib 20 lbs
Spindle Pulley 15 lbs

466 lbs? I'm not sure I believe that

 

[RobinHood]

also trying to figure out how switching 5
And 6 would reverse the motor ?

it changes the relationship between the start and run windings and thus the direction of rotation of the rotor.

in the following wiring diagrams for a single phase motor using the more common (at least in non-Asian motors) ”T” nomenclature, you can see that in order to change from CW to CCW rotation, only leads T5 and T8 are switched. It does not matter what the input voltage is or if it’s a single or two speed motor.

 

[DavidR8]

Some thing is not adding up here. I've been weighing everything I strip off this mill with a bathroom scale and came up with this so far.

Motor and mount 60 lbs
Table, screw and gib 83 lbs
Column 98 lbs
Head (sans belt cover) 90 lbs (65 + 25)
Base 70 lbs (50 + 20)
Table Base 30 lbs
Idler assy, Y screw, Y gib 20 lbs
Spindle Pulley 15 lbs

466 lbs? I'm not sure I believe that

That sounds about right.
Rick Sparber puts it at 500 lbs.
(His site has some pretty awesome resources for us mill/drill owners)

https://rick.sparber.org/Articles/MoveMill/MoveMill.htm


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[trlvn]

Big Sigh..... I guess I'll need to go that way At this point it's the least of my problems.

Either way, you need a special circuit to power your new toy. Either a very high amperage 120 volt line or a basic 240 volt circuit. Twice the voltage means a 240 V line only needs to carry half the amperage. Given that, the 240 V line does not need to be heavy as the 120 V would so it will be less expensive wire. I recommend running a 240 volt line.

Note that 240 volts is two "hot" lines; 120 volts uses one hot and one neutral. Plus ground in either case.

At the machine, you appear to have a standard drum switch for forward/reverse/off. It will have 2 wires in and out for power. The other four connections are used to interchange two lines which cause your motor to start either clockwise or counter-clockwise. Apparently they are labelled "5 and 6" on your motor.

Since it appears you are not all that comfortable with wiring, you need to get an electrician to check the connections. There is quite sufficient power here to burn down your house and/or kill you. If you want to save some money, do the work to pull the new wire yourself. Check with the electrician to make sure you buy the right wire, beforehand. When the rough-in is done, an electrician can hook up the new circuit in a matter of minutes.

Craig

 

[Johnwa]

Good catch on the rated amp/kWs. You do have to take power factor into account though. Assuming a power factor of 80%, you need to divide your kW derived amperage by 0.8. Full load current will be about 16 amps. Starting current will be much higher but is short duration.
I agree that the 5 and 6 swap are used to reverse rotation. They must be wired out to the drum switch.

I think it will run on a dedicated 20 amp circuit, but some house retiring is required in any case. If there’s space in the breaker panel for a double 15 then I would do that. No changes would then need to be done to the motor wiring.

 

[YYCHM]

Do I have space for a double 15? Looks to me that I do.

 

[Brent H]

You have lots of space Craig! Should fit nicely below that red handle one!!

 

[Johnwa]

Lots of room there! Since you have to pull a wire anyway I’d go with a 240v circuit. You don’t even have to run a neutral, so it would be 2 wire plus a ground 14 gauge. I would run the neutral anyway, just in case.

 

[kevin.decelles]

I wish I had that much room . My panel is full. I just had a quote done to upsize my panel


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[Johnwa]

I wish I had that much room . My panel is full. I just had a quote done to upsize my panel


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I ran a subpanel off mine when we renovated. Now it’s full. I think it was going to be about $2000 to get an electrician in to change the main panel.

 

[kevin.decelles]

My primary shop has a subpanel, lots of room there, it is my auxiliary storage building that I want to run power to (second sub panel ) that requires more space in main.

I want to move my wood working tools to my aux building



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[YYCHM]

Lots of room there! Since you have to pull a wire anyway I’d go with a 240v circuit. You don’t even have to run a neutral, so it would be 2 wire plus a ground 14 gauge. I would run the neutral anyway, just in case.

Yup, that's what I'm thinking. I have some 12ga left from installing my 20A circuit. I'll just mount a plug receptacle under the breaker box.

 

[historicalarms]

I avoided this problem by locking the quill which took the pressure off the quill gear.

This is redundant and late to the party as Craig has it off now...but... Yes locking the quill will take the pressure off the gearing but just transfers all the exerted force to the top bearing race of the head stock and that's not the best scenario neither, bearing races are very hard and have no ductile give to them, a high pressure force can very easily break a race ( or cage or cone for that matter as well).
Using the threaded pulley shaft as a fulcrum makes sure that the removal pressure is all centraled between the pulley and that shaft...no pressure on any bearings , even the drive shaft bearings are removed from the equation.

Now for the Electrical thing, I had my mill wired for 110 at its first use place, It worked, but marginally. Start-up was always a "I think I can, I think I can" but sometimes it wouldn't and a trip to the breaker box was required. The size of tooling also ruled how many time I made the "breaker trip" ( the floor was well worn between the mill & box). Small endmills under 1/2 " would work fine until you added a bit of feed pressure to your cut, then a distinct slow down in rotational speed would be detected.. Anything larger than 1/2 " or fly-cutting was a very slow process. Even starting a large headed fly cutter would be a noticeable chore for the motor.
When I moved it to where it is now, a 220 circuit was installed and it was like I had a new, different machine. 10 or 12 years use and not one trip to the breaker box...no need to guess which way I recommend you go Craig.

 

[YotaBota]

Having physical room in the panel doesn't mean you have load room. Is the panel 200 amps? It looks like you have electric heat, in winter with all the heaters running will you have enough power to also run the mil? I think it may be prudent to get a load test/calculation done by an electrician. 220 volt would be the way to go.
As to the motor wiring, that might also be worth having a motor guy help out. Probably end up cheaper than buying new motors and such.

 

[YYCHM]

Having physical room in the panel doesn't mean you have load room. Is the panel 200 amps?

At the top of the panel there are two breakers each labeled 100? The house heating is gas.

 

[YYCHM]

Phase II complete...…. She's in the basement. Phew!!!!

I can't believe that my son simply picked each piece up and walked them in the house and down the stairs

He figures with a couple of his buddies on hand they can get her up and standing on my bench.

 

[Hruul]

The two breakers are likely tied together to give you a 100A-2P breaker as your main. That is a standard house panel service size.

 

[Johnwa]

Yes that is pretty standard. Newer houses are often going 125 or even 200 amp. I think it’s mostly to get more breaker spaces. Of course that’s in Alberta where most of us use natural gas heating.

 

[YYCHM]

Where am I at here guys?

Is a 220 circuit a no go?

 

[Johnwa]

It’s definitely a go.
you just need a double breaker. I think it needs to be installed in a double slot like 27 and 28.