RF30 Basement Install

[Johnwa]

Yes

 

[Chicken lights]

For this motor you only need the two hot lines and ground. The neutral is not used. You therefore only need 14-2 plus the ground.

I’m talking to wire up the plug, Craig said he was going to run a line from the panel to a plug on the wall. That’s the way the sparky did the one in my shop, anyway

 

[Johnwa]

I’m talking to wire up the plug, Craig said he was going to run a line from the panel to a plug on the wall. That’s the way the sparky did the one in my shop, anyway

It depends. If you need +/-120v then you have to run the neutral. I know my welder plug had no provision for the neutral wire. I did run the neutral into the box but it wasn’t connected to anything. An electric dryer on the other hand needs 120v for the controls so it need the neutral.

 

[Hruul]

Sorry Craig I took a quick look and thought that was the right breaker. Missed that it did not have the tie in between.

 

[YYCHM]

Sorry Craig I took a quick look and thought that was the right breaker. Missed that it did not have the tie in between.

No worries, now I know what to look for. Makes me wonder why they would make one that wasn't tied together?

 

[YYCHM]

I did run the neutral into the box but it wasn’t connected to anything

What kind of box did you use (metal or plastic) and did you simply ground the box to the receptacle ground connection?

 

[Hruul]

Are you running the wiring surface or recessed in the wall? That will change what type of jacket you need on the wire. Surface needs to be armoured (AC90/BX) or in a conduit. If it is recessed in the wall you can use the plastic/rubber jacket wire called NMD90.

 

[Hruul]

You should tie the ground to the receptacle and to the box if the box is metal.

 

[Johnwa]

I’ve been thinking about what @Chicken lights said. Is there a plug on the end of your motor cord? If there is and it has 4 prongs then the receptacle will have a spot for the neutral.

 

[YYCHM]

I’ve been thinking about what @Chicken lights said. Is there a plug on the end of your motor cord? If there is and it has 4 prongs then the receptacle will have a spot for the neutral.

Three prong rated at 250V 20A.

From what I have been reading today. Ground is nothing more than a second path to neutral in case of a short (as in you will find the neutral bar is connected to ground bar in your breaker box, or as in my case which has no ground bar all the ground wires are connected to the breaker box), so for 220 you could run neutral to the plug ground connection and ground the receptacle box to the breaker box (which is connected to neutral) with the ground wire....OR.....Maybe I'm missed something here.

 

[Dabbler]

You need 12/2 wire to wire this receptacle unless the run is over 50 feet (It is possible that the code has change to 25m/75 feet in 2012 - I don't have a copy handy), After that, you should use 10/2. Be a good idea to premeasure anyway, copper costs $$$, and you shouldn't be short!

 

[Johnwa]

@YYCHobbyMachinist The matching receptacle for that plug doesn’t use the neutral so you need 2 wire.
If you’re using 15amp breakers 14/2 will work. You will need 12/2 if you use 20 amp breakers. I think you said you had some 12/2, you could use it with either breaker.

 

[YYCHM]

@Dabbler and @johnnielsen stopped by today and sized things up for me. Going to go 20amp 240V 12-2. Will mount a steel plug box adjacent to the breaker panel. The Mill will be sitting within 6' of the breaker box, so no long run stuff involved here. They also provided some suggestions as to how to beef up the bench the mill will be sitting on. Said my head room was sufficient so it was nice to get a second opinion on that. I think I'm ready to proceed with the pre-install work now.

Thank you John and John I really appreciate your input.

Craig

 

[YYCHM]

Success.... 250 Volts, 20 Amps on the wall. The panel didn't kill me and neither did the wife



Had the house power off for a whole 30 seconds. Just have to tidy up now.



And this beast of a motor runs real nice. Forward, Stop, Reverse.

What would you ever run a mill in reverse for?

 

[Johnwa]

KMS has some left hand drill bits for drilling out broken bolts. Also useful if you’re brave enough to use it for tapping.

 

[kevin.decelles]

Tapping


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[PeterT]

Reverse is good on a boring head with RH tool mounted horizontally, larger ID's & such.

Just to be clear on tapping, the guys are talking about direct drive power tapping. Tap is held in collet or chuck, power in to tap, stop, reverse power out to withdraw. Done all the time but use precautions.

But using a tapping HEAD, spin is all one direction (conventional). Pull down on mill feed handle in drill press mode, clutch engages, forward tapping commences. Release pressure & the magic happens internally, tap direction is reversed.

 

[DavidR8]

I was terrified to power tap with my RF until I did the 3-phase and VFD conversion.
Now I have forward and reverse at 50 RPM.


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[PeterT]

The thing I'm not so fond of is flicking the power on & off...having had a few intimate relationships with centrifugal switches & capacitors. But sufficiently low rpms give you longer motor run time & reaction time. Power tapping is ok for through holes if the material doesn't put up too much fight & properly ejecting chips etc. I get leery on blind holes, at least with any time invested in the part. Some people rely on the chuck or collet jaws spinning on the tap if it gets tight-ish which I guess is a poor mans clutch. But probably not that great for the jaw surfaces & probably not too far off breaking the tap.

 

[Tom O]

Tapping collets are designed with a square tap drive built in so it can’t slip in the collet.
I have used reverse on my 601 to set a 0 position, running in reverse doesn’t cut and doesn’t harm the cutting edge it is the same principle as used by the Haas to measure the cutter Díaz.