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RF30 Basement Install

MOTOR1.JPG


MOTOR2.JPG


This motor states 115/230 VOLT, 22/11 AMP. Can it be plugged into either 115 or 220 without some sort of internal wiring change? Just change the power cord plug style? There is no internal wiring template just the one in the image.

Thanks,

Craig
 
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It will need a wiring change. There should be a diagram inside the junction box.

Well of course there is a switch involved so the color coding coming out of the switch doesn't match that at the plug end.

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WIRES1.JPG


So now the junction box connections don't make sense.

WIRES3.JPG


Would that 5 6 exchange at the bottom of wiring diagram indicate all's I need to do is swap 5 and 6?

Craig
 
It might be easier to rewire your house! Is there a dryer plug close by?

From the diagram and pictures, 3 and 4 are connected together. To go to 120v. 1, 3 and 5 are connected together as are 2, 4 and 6. I don’t know whether or not the switch affects this.

in any case for 120v, 1 pole of the switch should be switching the hot line. The other two poles will swap how the start winding is connected.

With 240v both lines are hot and ideally they both should be switched but I think it would take a 4 pole switch to do that.

Is there any further info in the manual?
 
I believe the 5/6 swap is the FWD/REV INSIDE the motor.

so if you select your SWITCH to FWD and the mill actually runs backwards, change the 5/6 position inside the junction box to make the mill quill also run FWD.
 
The motor is rated at 22 amps on 120. So a regular 15 amp circuit won’t be enough. You will need a 30 amp circuit, special plugs and receptacles.
 
If you are going to run the mill on 115V (as you plan) beware that most outlets can only handle 15A. Unless you are on a dedicated 20A outlet.

@Johnwa beat me to it....
 
Is there any further info in the manual?

Manual????? Surly you jest LOL.

What's coming out of the switch is red, white, yellow, green and black. Black, white and green are going in.

The switch connects input black to output red and that's about all I have been able to figure out so far.
 
If you are going to run the mill on 115V (as you plan) beware that most outlets can only handle 15A. Unless you are on a dedicated 20A outlet.

@Johnwa beat me to it....

I ran a 20A circuit to the back of my house for my welder. There was no outlet out there at all before. Could I not change out the breaker to my shop outlets with a 20A breaker?
 
The wire for the existing 120v/15amp receptacles is 14 gauge. You need 12 gauge for 20 amp but that would be marginal. You would need 10 gauge for 30 amp. You would only need a double 15 amp breaker and 14 gauge if you wire for 240v.
 
I am confused by the motor plate - says motor is 1.5 Kw (2 Hp)

So 1500 watts/120 Volts is roughly 12.5 Amps. So a 20 Amp circuit should be fine - but how the heck does a 2 Hp motor draw 22 amps? -

also trying to figure out how switching 5
And 6 would reverse the motor ?
 
I am confused by the motor plate - says motor is 1.5 Kw (2 Hp)

So 1500 watts/120 Volts is roughly 12.5 Amps. So a 20 Amp circuit should be fine - but how the heck does a 2 Hp motor draw 22 amps? -

also trying to figure out how switching 5
And 6 would reverse the motor ?

By your logic a 15amp 120 volt circuit would suffice. Have no idea what the "5 6 exchange" means, it's stated under both the 120 and 220 wiring list.
 
It might be start up current is 22A. If it stays there too long it could trip the breaker. Depending on the quality of the breaker and how many times its been tripped. If they get tripped by overload lots, the overload starts to weaken and will trip easier.
 
15A breakers are only rated to handle 12A continuous. All breakers that I have seen are rated for 80% of the maximum load stamped on them, unless they are 100% rated, but they would say that. 15A breakers are good to 15amps for a short time period but can do 12A continuously. 20A is good for 16 amps, 30 for 24 amps and so on.
 
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