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Parker Majestic refurb

I had a few minutes this afternoon and so I completely removed the table so I could figure out how to approach the problem.
I installed the right side band and weighted the end with a C clamp so it wouldn’t unroll.

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c734b217033018596ea1bc0b7bd8f836.jpg


The I marked and drilled the left side band and installed it. It was absolutely easy to drill. I was about to roll it in when I realized that it had to be wound on by hand so that it was at the length it would be with the table centred. So I snaked it under the other band till it was the right length.
Attached another clamp to that end.
Here they are both installed.
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Brent H said:
@David_R8 : Is there enough tape to reconnect?
Click to expand...

There was enough. I haven’t put the table back on yet so that will be the acid test to see if I get full travel. I suspect I will but time will tell.


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@David_R8 : Sweet!!! Way to go. Worst case is you loose a bit of full travel until you get some full length bands- and you will be able to hook them up because you have practice!! Way to go David!!
 
Brent H said:
@David_R8 : Sweet!!! Way to go. Worst case is you loose a bit of full travel until you get some full length bands- and you will be able to hook them up because you have practice!! Way to go David!!
Click to expand...

Thanks [mention]Brent H [/mention]
I’ve been thinking about it for days, trying to figure out how to put it back together.
While it’s apart I’m going to paint the top of the cross slide and the table.
I can only think it will make it easier to keep clean with a coat or two of enamel.


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RobinHood said:
This Stefan Gotteswinter video shows how the drill hardened spring steel...

Click to expand...
Thanks, I discovered that the bands are actually not hardened spring steel. I was actually able to trim off the ragged, broken end using a pair of Klein 4" scissors. Drilling new holes was a bit of a trick because of the challenges of drilling thin material.
 
I'm a bit late to the party but you could have clamped the band between two pieces of hardwood and then drilled the holes.
 
Parker Majestic got back to me this morning.
The bands are available. $60 for a pair including hardware.
Done!


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Just ordered them.
Russ at P-M was super helpful.
Told me the bands come with complete instructions on how to replace them.
Also said they have 200 machines similar to mine that they refurbish including conversion to automatic feed using ball screws.


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Just a suggestion for anybody trying to drill small holes into hardened material.
I used to build home built rifles using WW 1 P14 or P17 actions. The front ring of these actions is very hard and drilling & tapping for scope mounts was an exercise in broken drills & taps until I learned how to anneal the small spot used for the screw locations and leave the rest of the ring unchanged. This was passed on to me by an old gunsmith of international renown, Its easy.
Take an ordinary 3 1/2" framing nail & cut the head off with sidecutter and chuck the nail shank into a drill press. Now clamp your hard workpiece to the press table ( clamp so it doesn't "skate around". turn your drill press on and drop the nail point to the spot you want annealed and hold it there, keeping pressure on it. The nail & the spot will shortly turn red and continue to hold until the nail fails ( the sharp end of the nail will fail very early in the process but just continue to press the nail shank). By the time the nail completely fails, the spot on the workpiece will also be red...now, immediately after letting the nail retract, dump a hand full of an insulating material on the spot so it cools as slow as possible ( common baking flour or bag cement powder work excellent).
After cooling to room temp, you can easily center punch & drill& tap that spot while the rest of that ring will retain its hardness & easily withstand 50,000 lb cartridge pressures...at least I've never heard of one coming apart.
 
historicalarms said:
Just a suggestion for anybody trying to drill small holes into hardened material.
I used to build home built rifles using WW 1 P14 or P17 actions. The front ring of these actions is very hard and drilling & tapping for scope mounts was an exercise in broken drills & taps until I learned how to anneal the small spot used for the screw locations and leave the rest of the ring unchanged. This was passed on to me by an old gunsmith of international renown, Its easy.
Take an ordinary 3 1/2" framing nail & cut the head off with sidecutter and chuck the nail shank into a drill press. Now clamp your hard workpiece to the press table ( clamp so it doesn't "skate around". turn your drill press on and drop the nail point to the spot you want annealed and hold it there, keeping pressure on it. The nail & the spot will shortly turn red and continue to hold until the nail fails ( the sharp end of the nail will fail very early in the process but just continue to press the nail shank). By the time the nail completely fails, the spot on the workpiece will also be red...now, immediately after letting the nail retract, dump a hand full of an insulating material on the spot so it cools as slow as possible ( common baking flour or bag cement powder work excellent).
After cooling to room temp, you can easily center punch & drill& tap that spot while the rest of that ring will retain its hardness & easily withstand 50,000 lb cartridge pressures...at least I've never heard of one coming apart.
Click to expand...

That’s a great tip!
Really appreciate it :D


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