Shows both how pricy new 4140 is, and also how much metal supermarket probably marks up their stuff.
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Pallets of 4140
- Thread starter Alexander
- Start date
Shows both how pricy new 4140 is, and also how much metal supermarket probably marks up their stuff.
Sell MS a one of your 7 logs & buy a brand new bandsaw with the proceeds haha
A friend of mine has some big iron to cut & no band saw at all. He apparently found a shop with a big ass saw to do it pretty reasonably. They basically said leave it for a week if it wasn't rush & charged him an hour of shop time, so he got the segments he required. But that was back in the hungry days, not sure if that can be replicated. If you had a batch of cutting to do, might save wear & tear on the smaller saws, but I don't really have a feel for what they are capable of on this stuff.
A friend of mine has some big iron to cut & no band saw at all. He apparently found a shop with a big ass saw to do it pretty reasonably. They basically said leave it for a week if it wasn't rush & charged him an hour of shop time, so he got the segments he required. But that was back in the hungry days, not sure if that can be replicated. If you had a batch of cutting to do, might save wear & tear on the smaller saws, but I don't really have a feel for what they are capable of on this stuff.
I wish I had 7 logs, lol. The majority of the metal in my garage is for other people, haha.
Johnwa
Ultra Member
I've fiddled around with the tri-bearing setup on my little saw. You loosen a nut, turn the cam axle, that moves the bearing in & out. It cant be too tight & it cant be too loose on either side of blade. Anyway, yes, I could see where even a bit of misalignment or slight tension difference on one side could drift the blade cut path slightly so the cuts might not meet exactly in the middle. And probably a skinny blade might drift more.
There is a really cool video series posted on Oxtool called making flat lapping plates using similar log slices. What they call the 3-plate method. But those are cast iron, which I suspect is the proper material because its more stable for this particular purpose.
Johnwa
Ultra Member
I think it was more a matter of the vise fixed jaw not being perfectly aligned.
Hey I have a 12x20 bandsaw and if you want to cut some stock on it i don't mind hanging around while you cut it. I just ordered a lenox classic blade from TS it will be here in a couple of days. I do have an engine picker you could use to get the material onto the saw. Inbox me if you want to use it.
Hi I made a quick study of band saw performance. I used the starrett guide as linked below. Alex scoffed at their performance numbers. They think you can cut a 4" round in 1 minute in ideal conditions. My experience with my old band saw was more like 2-10 hours depending on how much fussing with the saw I had to do. I'm not sure yet what my 7x12 will do. Anyone with professional saw hydmech etc or other big tools care to chime in with observed performance? Anyone with better performance on their home saw care to report?
Yes I've heard that about CI - its porosity is desirable for holding compound. But many soft laps like copper & brass also exist as they imbed compound. So maybe CI has additional advantages - hardness. dimensional stability, tool wear? Re 4140, I assume you mean after its been hardened it can be ground & lapped? I don't think its any more dimensionally in annealed state than regular or tool steels is it?
Bofobo
M,Mizera(BOFOBO)
No it's quite soft see (pic1; from my handle less hammer used to free my blade when having to rotate the piece)
I used my propoint (pic2) with my new unused all blades blade 52 x 1/2 x .025 6-10 TPI cutting 4" took about 10 minutes no cutting fluid or coolant of any kind (pic 3; cut marks including pull out and no heat discolouration) but I was messing around with bunjies (pic4) and stalled the saw once (some saftey thing) I could likely bring that time down to 8-9 minutes MAYBE.
I used my propoint (pic2) with my new unused all blades blade 52 x 1/2 x .025 6-10 TPI cutting 4" took about 10 minutes no cutting fluid or coolant of any kind (pic 3; cut marks including pull out and no heat discolouration) but I was messing around with bunjies (pic4) and stalled the saw once (some saftey thing) I could likely bring that time down to 8-9 minutes MAYBE.
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Well I guess I'll get involved in "SAW WARS" too. I got a great deal on a new 7 x 12" saw at KMS yesterday. I set it up last evening and left it on the slowest speed. It sliced through a 4" log in 11 minutes. Virtually no heat in the 1" piece I sliced off. I'll do more tests later including timing my 4 X 6" saw on the same job. I'll be selling the 4 X 6" if anyone is interested.
John
John