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Pallets of 4140

Alex scoffed at their performance numbers
To clear that up i was only pointing out that tool manufactures often exadurate the speeds and feeds of there tools. This is because there is a real arms race between the big companys that sell cutting tools.
 
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Well I cut the 5" with the 1" hole in it on this beast of a saw, the blade is horrible and made the cut in as little as 3 minutes (fastest cut) with coolant. a little longer for the others, as the saw needs oil on the drop cylinder and of course dull blade I'm sure it could have been faster but not likely by much
 

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@Bofobo how many hp is that saw? and what are the meashurments inside the cutting area. Just put a tape perpendicular from the blade to the back of the throat and then meashure paralell to the blade inbetween the guards. Nice saw you have there
 
I lament that it is not mine, but it is quite the horse, I was rushed so I did not take measurements, in short it would take a log for sure
 
I lament that it is not mine, but it is quite the horse, I was rushed so I did not take measurements, in short it would take a log for sure

Great test Mike thanks for doing that. That works out to about 6 square inches per minute. Hands down faster. Fastest setting Mike- any sfm measure there ?

I managed 12 minutes with my new used 7x12 on 4" round. No coolant and trying not to wreck the blade. Slowest rpm setting. That's about 1 square inch a minute.

@John Conroy care to weigh in here?

Btw everybody Lenox has an interesting bandsaw blade guide along with detailed information on how to break in a blade. Basically start with a greatly reduced feed rate and gently start increasing it over many cuts. Otherwise risk the blade performance and life.
Other good stuff too.

http://www.lenoxtools.com/Guides/LENOX Guide to Band Sawing.pdf
 

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Janger your time for the 4" round is about the same as mine. I'm going to increase the blade speed next time as there was almost no heat last time. I'm using the factory blade which is 8 tpi and probably not the best quality. I have a Starrett blade but I'm going to keep that till the original is worn out.
 
I think that the amount of teeth also make a big difference. My little saw is 6-10T and the big saw closer to 4-6T. While looking at a new porta band I seen a lot of replacement blades in the 10-12T range for the smaller ones. Thoughts?
 
For large surface area cuts you need to have a very aggressive blade to cut effectively. I think the idea is to have 3 teeth engaged at any given time to really get through the material at a reasonable rate. The next problem is how much horsepower you have to overcome the downforce that you apply. On big industrial saws they have a lot of horsepower which allows for high down feed pressure and better faster material removal. I personally put extra weight on my saw to get a decent cut time, but it's a bit of a pain to balance the blade tension, amount of weight to put on the saw and not stall the motor.
 
How big is your saw Kyle? adding weights on the front to increase pressure? Interesting that does not cause you other problems like blade breakage, falling off, wrecking teeth etc.
 
It's tiny and it does run that risk but yes I want to increase the cutting pressures. The most dangerous thing is the blade hopping and then slamming back onto the workpiece which will destroy the blade instantly if it grabs, industrial saws are either pneumatic or hydraulic to apply constant pressure and prevent the saw from being able to jump.
Again this ends up being a trade between the material, download pressure and horsepower. I personally don't see any issue running a saw to almost the motor stall point from down pressure on small saws, if my saw were 5hp I would not do it but on the smaller saws with no actual down feed pressure other than the weight of it, it speeds the cut stops rubbing and prevent to the saw from bouncing. I'm not saying this will give you the best blade life, it could potentially though, but if I lose 10 percent off the life but I can cut twice as fast I'm willing to take that trade off. The rubbing I would think would be the most likely thing to dull the bade, like running a lathe tool rubbing on a workpiece that is rotating your just hurting it.
 
My 6x4 has a 14tpi blade. While I was at PA yesterday I checked and that is all they carry. For most of my cuts the blade is fine. With a Chinese 1/2hp motor and the relatively light frame I don't know how well my saw would handle a coarser blade anyway.
 
It likely couldn't. I'm sure you could get a 8tpi blade made somehow but I don't think that that type of saw would benefit from it or even be able to push that through material.
 
My maximum round cut is stickered on my pro point as 3-3/8" It's basically a corded portable with a base. All blades is where I found a replacement running 6-10 but online everyone used more teeth per inch like the princess auto discontinued oem for this saw. Custom sized next day delivery from Edmonton.
 
HI all still looking for a long piece of the 6.75 x 2 ID. The seller wont return my emails or calls so must have sold it all. If anyone wants to part with some could we negotiate a price? Thanks
 
There was a 39" piece on a list I saw, maybe nobody got any of the 2"id stuff. I have a friend in Wyoming who want it for a cannon barrel. Ill ask him if he can bore it out. If you have a piece that long let me know. Thanks
 
Hey Geoff! thought you were dead... :rolleyes: ;) Anyway you've got 3' of 1018 5" round sitting in my backyard.... and some 4130 too. I have to admit I have used a few inches...
 
Oh ffs! I forgot about those rounds!! Work had me all over the place for awhile and then I recently got laid off, which isn't a bad thing! Can you PM me your number and ill send you a txt and come grab them rounds early this week!
 
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