Mill arrived

[LenVW]

You'll need both 7/16 and 12mm drawbars.

I have purchased ‘Inch and Metric’ collets for my ‘King Mill’ (KC15-VS).
The drawbar is a 7/16”-20 thread.
.
I believe the Craftex mills are very similar in details.
Unless you requested ‘fancy’ options.

 

[MooseMeat]

R8 spindle nose is nice - gives lots of options for tool holding. I saw mention of ER32 or ER40 - my choice is ER32 simply due to the collets being a bit cheaper and easier to find, as well as the ER40 collet being rather big when trying to use smaller tools (been there done that). You may even consider an ER20 or ER16 collet for small stuff.
You can also later on consider some TTS tooling. Basically - its a tool holder that fits into a 19.05mm (3/4") R8 collet that is slightly modified. It lets you relatively quickly swap out tools that are used alot. More a benefit for CNC guys like me but if you got into a job where you needed to swap between 2 or more tools alot it could be a benefit.

+1 on a DRO on a mill (XY axis min but get a display that will show Z and can add the scale later), such a must have in my opinion, beats forgetting where you are and how many turns you cranked...

And a boring head. The number of times you need to make a nice round hole in a part that won't fit on your lathe is quite surprising (was for me!). Boring head to the rescue. But that needs boring bars. You can use lathe boring bars with replaceable carbide inserts, really opens up a world of possibilities in terms of usefulness of the boring head over the standard brazed carbide boring bars on offer at Busybee. (if you get a metric head that takes metric bars it gets a lot cheaper - always my concern as a hobbyist but not everyone's - some like to buy high quality and I respect that - I choose not to with my hobby bucks).

So I have made my A-Zon shopping list with the advice posted, I was really lucky with the lathe as it came used with thousands of dollars worth of tools and goodies. (thank you again to the gentleman I acquired it from)

I value advice of the experienced, no matter how budget friendly or high end your tastes are. As a future though on dro's, glass or magnetic scales, I'm leaning on magnetic,

thank you,

 

[DPittman]

I have purchased ‘Inch and Metric’ collets for my ‘King Mill’ (KC15-VS).
The drawbar is a 7/16”-20 thread.
.
I believe the Craftex mills are very similar in details.
Unless you requested ‘fancy’ options.

Oh. All my metric collets are 12mm, but I only buy the cheap stuff. 😕

 

[canuck750]

I have the same machine, very happy with its capabilities as my own capabilities are one step above newbie.

I did add a power drive for the table and I made a 2” tall spacer to raise the head mechanism further from the column, longer bolts were needed and I machined the spacer on my lathe with corresponding male and female surfaces to mate to the existing column and head gear components. The spacer increased the clearance between table and quill so my Vevor indexing / rotary table has working clearance.

 

[MooseMeat]

I have the same machine, very happy with its capabilities as my own capabilities are one step above newbie.

I did add a power drive for the table and I made a 2” tall spacer to raise the head mechanism further from the column, longer bolts were needed and I machined the spacer on my lathe with corresponding male and female surfaces to mate to the existing column and head gear components. The spacer increased the clearance between table and quill so my Vevor indexing / rotary table has working clearance.

Have you watched double boost? he has done up a 6" spacer and quite fun to watch, especially the out takes.

link

cheers....

 

[canuck750]

Nice video, even if I only understood half of what that gent was saying!
That’s the only time I can say massive and 6” in the same sentence, makes my 2” seem pretty limp.
I also added a 3 axis DRO, a great aid for my very basic capabilities, cheap on EBay and pretty easy to install.
Enjoy your new mill!

 

[MooseMeat]

Nice video, even if I only understood half of what that gent was saying!
That’s the only time I can say massive and 6” in the same sentence, makes my 2” seem pretty limp.
I also added a 3 axis DRO, a great aid for my very basic capabilities, cheap on EBay and pretty easy to install.
Enjoy your new mill!

cheers,
he's areal character to watch, a DRO and eventually a VFD, a fella can really trick these machines out.

 

[DPittman]

I did add a power drive for the table and I made a 2” tall spacer to raise the head mechanism further from the column, longer bolts were needed and I machined the spacer on my lathe with corresponding male and female surfaces to mate to the existing column and head gear components

I'm curious did you have any sort of plans to follow or did you just make it to fit by measuring your mill components? I'm also wondering why you chose only 2 inches of rise? I'd like to make one for mine about 5-6 inches but not sure yet how I'd go about drilling the through holes that deep.

 

[Susquatch]

Don’t be in too big a hurry to buy the whole list of tooling ‘above’.
You will start getting into machining that will ‘require’ some of the tooling.
Some of the rotary tables and gauge block sets can really add up ($$$).
Buy tools as you need them and they will be more valuable to you.

I certainly agree, but he wanted a big list and I obliged!

Apparently he has 10 grand burning a hole in his pocket. He will need to buy a lot of stuff he prolly won't use to burn that much cash...... (Insert big evil grin here!)

I don't know about anyone else but I LOVE helping others spend their money!

Seriously though, it's just a list to pick from, not an exhaustive recommendation. That said, I don't think there is anything on the list that I don't have and use. And there is also lots of stuff that I have and use that isn't on the list. Therefore, I believe it's a valid place to start.

 

[MooseMeat]

I certainly agree, but he wanted a big list and I obliged!

Apparently he has 10 grand burning a hole in his pocket. He will need to buy a lot of stuff he prolly won't use to burn that much cash...... (Insert big evil grin here!)

I don't know about anyone else but I LOVE helping others spend their money!

Seriously though, it's just a list to pick from, not an exhaustive recommendation. That said, I don't think there is anything on the list that I don't have and use. And there is also lots of stuff that I have and use that isn't on the list. Therefore, I believe it's a valid place to start.

Hey all good,
A person can't be "level, plumb and square" without a few basic tools, krazy glue and bamboo doesn't hold drill bits worth crap.

 

[canuck750]

I'm curious did you have any sort of plans to follow or did you just make it to fit by measuring your mill components? I'm also wondering why you chose only 2 inches of rise? I'd like to make one for mine about 5-6 inches but not sure yet how I'd go about drilling the through holes that deep.

I made a 2” riser only because it was the size of steel round solid I had in the approximate diameter I needed and it was all the clearance I thought I would need. I will probably make a taller spacer one of these days but would keep it around 4”. I was able to use off the shelf bolts and machined the hex heads into T shaped heads to ride in the column flange just like the stock bolts.

For the power drive, I installed it on the right side of the table and I had to make an adapter spacer to fit between the right end of the table and the power drive (Vevor)
I can take some pictures of the spacer / adaptor plate, it bolts to the table and has separate bolts for the drive. It was just something I came up with on my own as I tried to figure out how to mount the drive.

Jim

 

[mbond]

I can vouch for buying just about Susquatch's list of stuff. I bought a combination mill / lathe a couple of years ago because I have a very small space. Certainly I have spent at least twice as much on the tooling as on thew machine itself. And buying 'kits' or 'sets' is a waste of money. Amazon etc have next day shipping, so just buy what you need when you need it

 

[Downwindtracker2]

In order to bore a decent (accurate with good finish) hole you need a smooth feed on the Z-axis that's where power feed comes in.

 

[MooseMeat]

In order to bore a decent (accurate with good finish) hole you need a smooth feed on the Z-axis that's where power feed comes in.

I have watched many videos on different brands of feeds, Vevor and so on, they ALL look the same and are clones, no matter which one I see reviewed they all look like junk and seem to be noisy and have issues right outa the gate with fitting and performance.

Any advice on this??

 

[KeeponDragon]

I have watched many videos on different brands of feeds, Vevor and so on, they ALL look the same and are clones, no matter which one I see reviewed they all look like junk and seem to be noisy and have issues right outa the gate with fitting and performance.

Any advice on this??

I have a Vevor X axis drive. I opted for the 450in/lb unit. It works great on my mill. I kinda lucked out, that the machine came with an adapter on the end of the table for the power feed. Once I removed the plate that comes with the drive, it bolted right up.
I've put a few hours use on it, no noticeable noise to speak of, it seems to have plenty of grunt to move the table.
Already planning on adding the Y axis drive down the road.

 

[MooseMeat]

I have a Vevor X axis drive. I opted for the 450in/lb unit. It works great on my mill. I kinda lucked out, that the machine came with an adapter on the end of the table for the power feed. Once I removed the plate that comes with the drive, it bolted right up.
I've put a few hours use on it, no noticeable noise to speak of, it seems to have plenty of grunt to move the table.
Already planning on adding the Y axis drive down the road.

I think in this case spend a few dollars more, Vevor does make some good stuff, it's the clone of a clone that one has to watch out for, anyhow its a ways down the road, tools first.
Cheers..

 

[Proxule]

if you don't get a Gerardi (which doesn't need one).

GET ONE!!!
A clone from aliexpress, What a treat to have, I followed in RobinHood's footsteps!
Great guy, great ideas, and well the price landed was great during the big aliexpress sale!

Tool Thread '6” GS / Gerardi Modular Vise Clone'

Dec 27, 2023

What is a “Precision Bench Vise Work Bench 4/5/6Inch Clamp Machine” you ask? Well, it is a GS / Gerardi Modular Vise clone made in China.

Something was lost in translation somewhere…

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003567490150.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.781ef19c37pJRj

A 6” new Gerardi branded one is in the $1800+tax & S+H range; a GS or SOWA branded one is still $1200+tax & S+H.

So I decided to give one of the clones a try.

Ordered it on 13/Dec/2023 from Shanghai, CN, and the UPS man just delivered it this afternoon.
Selected the UPS Expedited shipping...

• RobinHood
• Replies: 55
• Forum: Shop and Shop Tools

• 

Gluck to you

 

[Susquatch]

I think in this case spend a few dollars more, Vevor does make some good stuff, it's the clone of a clone that one has to watch out for,

I have two power axis units. Both are Vevor. One is an X and the other is Z. The X was a piece of cake to install, and the Z was a nightmare.

anyhow its a ways down the road, tools first.

I totally agree with this.

 

[canuck750]

I think in this case spend a few dollars more, Vevor does make some good stuff, it's the clone of a clone that one has to watch out for, anyhow its a ways down the road, tools first.
Cheers..

Some old pictures I have of my mill before I added the column spacer. For the Vevor drive I started with a 1/2” thick piece of aluminum bolted to the end of the table.




Then I shaped the aluminum adapter to match the Vevor drive.



I had to shim the brass bevel gear that engages the table lead screw, made an extension to the end of the lead screw, a bit of back and forth to get it to run smooth but the Vevor is a fraction of the cost of a Busy Bee, I have had it for at least four years now.

I want to add a separate DRO for the quill itself.
I have also added a LED light on an adjustable arm on the right hand side and made a heavy mobile base from steel tube with castors and leveling feet.
I keep picking up tooling as needed, collets, boring head etc.

 

[MooseMeat]

Some old pictures I have of my mill before I added the column spacer. For the Vevor drive I started with a 1/2” thick piece of aluminum bolted to the end of the table.




Then I shaped the aluminum adapter to match the Vevor drive.



I had to shim the brass bevel gear that engages the table lead screw, made an extension to the end of the lead screw, a bit of back and forth to get it to run smooth but the Vevor is a fraction of the cost of a Busy Bee, I have had it for at least four years now.

I want to add a separate DRO for the quill itself.
I have also added a LED light on an adjustable arm on the right hand side and made a heavy mobile base from steel tube with castors and leveling feet.
I keep picking up tooling as needed, collets, boring head etc.

Is your dro glass scales or magnetic, BTW, right on,