I have purchased ‘Inch and Metric’ collets for my ‘King Mill’ (KC15-VS).You'll need both 7/16 and 12mm drawbars.
The drawbar is a 7/16”-20 thread.
.
I believe the Craftex mills are very similar in details.
Unless you requested ‘fancy’ options.
I have purchased ‘Inch and Metric’ collets for my ‘King Mill’ (KC15-VS).You'll need both 7/16 and 12mm drawbars.
So I have made my A-Zon shopping list with the advice posted, I was really lucky with the lathe as it came used with thousands of dollars worth of tools and goodies. (thank you again to the gentleman I acquired it from)R8 spindle nose is nice - gives lots of options for tool holding. I saw mention of ER32 or ER40 - my choice is ER32 simply due to the collets being a bit cheaper and easier to find, as well as the ER40 collet being rather big when trying to use smaller tools (been there done that). You may even consider an ER20 or ER16 collet for small stuff.
You can also later on consider some TTS tooling. Basically - its a tool holder that fits into a 19.05mm (3/4") R8 collet that is slightly modified. It lets you relatively quickly swap out tools that are used alot. More a benefit for CNC guys like me but if you got into a job where you needed to swap between 2 or more tools alot it could be a benefit.
+1 on a DRO on a mill (XY axis min but get a display that will show Z and can add the scale later), such a must have in my opinion, beats forgetting where you are and how many turns you cranked...
And a boring head. The number of times you need to make a nice round hole in a part that won't fit on your lathe is quite surprising (was for me!). Boring head to the rescue. But that needs boring bars. You can use lathe boring bars with replaceable carbide inserts, really opens up a world of possibilities in terms of usefulness of the boring head over the standard brazed carbide boring bars on offer at Busybee. (if you get a metric head that takes metric bars it gets a lot cheaper - always my concern as a hobbyist but not everyone's - some like to buy high quality and I respect that - I choose not to with my hobby bucks).
Oh. All my metric collets are 12mm, but I only buy the cheap stuff. 😕I have purchased ‘Inch and Metric’ collets for my ‘King Mill’ (KC15-VS).
The drawbar is a 7/16”-20 thread.
.
I believe the Craftex mills are very similar in details.
Unless you requested ‘fancy’ options.
Have you watched double boost? he has done up a 6" spacer and quite fun to watch, especially the out takes.
I have the same machine, very happy with its capabilities as my own capabilities are one step above newbie.
I did add a power drive for the table and I made a 2” tall spacer to raise the head mechanism further from the column, longer bolts were needed and I machined the spacer on my lathe with corresponding male and female surfaces to mate to the existing column and head gear components. The spacer increased the clearance between table and quill so my Vevor indexing / rotary table has working clearance.
cheers,Nice video, even if I only understood half of what that gent was saying!
That’s the only time I can say massive and 6” in the same sentence, makes my 2” seem pretty limp.
I also added a 3 axis DRO, a great aid for my very basic capabilities, cheap on EBay and pretty easy to install.
Enjoy your new mill!
I'm curious did you have any sort of plans to follow or did you just make it to fit by measuring your mill components? I'm also wondering why you chose only 2 inches of rise? I'd like to make one for mine about 5-6 inches but not sure yet how I'd go about drilling the through holes that deep.I did add a power drive for the table and I made a 2” tall spacer to raise the head mechanism further from the column, longer bolts were needed and I machined the spacer on my lathe with corresponding male and female surfaces to mate to the existing column and head gear components
Don’t be in too big a hurry to buy the whole list of tooling ‘above’.
You will start getting into machining that will ‘require’ some of the tooling.
Some of the rotary tables and gauge block sets can really add up ($$$).
Buy tools as you need them and they will be more valuable to you.
Hey all good,I certainly agree, but he wanted a big list and I obliged!
Apparently he has 10 grand burning a hole in his pocket. He will need to buy a lot of stuff he prolly won't use to burn that much cash...... (Insert big evil grin here!)
I don't know about anyone else but I LOVE helping others spend their money!
Seriously though, it's just a list to pick from, not an exhaustive recommendation. That said, I don't think there is anything on the list that I don't have and use. And there is also lots of stuff that I have and use that isn't on the list. Therefore, I believe it's a valid place to start.
I made a 2” riser only because it was the size of steel round solid I had in the approximate diameter I needed and it was all the clearance I thought I would need. I will probably make a taller spacer one of these days but would keep it around 4”. I was able to use off the shelf bolts and machined the hex heads into T shaped heads to ride in the column flange just like the stock bolts.I'm curious did you have any sort of plans to follow or did you just make it to fit by measuring your mill components? I'm also wondering why you chose only 2 inches of rise? I'd like to make one for mine about 5-6 inches but not sure yet how I'd go about drilling the through holes that deep.