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Jswain's active projects

Jswain

Jswain

Joe
Susquatch said:
I think you will find that HSS is more forgiving than you might expect. I would not start over.

However, I do see an edge that might need a bit of work. To my eye, the side of the tip looks like it will rub as the tool advances into the work.

I've tried to highlight the problem but it's not a great markup. Just remember that the edge cannot be followed by a surface that sticks out more than the cutting edge.

View attachment 44880

View attachment 44881
Click to expand...
I will have a look at it tomorrow/touch it up, and if I get the way covers on I will throw it in and try it out, Thanks!
 
Jswain

Jswain

Joe
Leather came in so I got the way covers replaced. You can see the stiff rubber/plastic I started with that broke off on the table end.

Had just enough scrap 22gauge to bend up a mount. Much more flexible and is just magnets on the table to easily move to clean & oil the ways
 

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Jswain

Jswain

Joe
Wasn't a fan of the plastic stops for the power feed so chopped up some more of the 1/4" angle and remade them from steel.

Also made up some diy cutting oil a few days ago and have been using it, nice & thick so it stays on the drills/taps and seems to work as good or maybe better then my dwindling supply of rapidtap.

50/50 used ATF & crisco shortening then melted in two tbsp of paraffin wax.

Think tomorrow I'll adjust the stops to their final destination & then design & print a matching dovetail cover from TPU
 

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B

Bandit

Super User
How much Crisco? The older rapid tap I think had chlorine in it, not sure about newer stuff. Some thing to think about if your welding after useing.
 
Jswain

Jswain

Joe
Bandit said:
How much Crisco? The older rapid tap I think had chlorine in it, not sure about newer stuff. Some thing to think about if your welding after useing.
Click to expand...
50/50 with the used ATF...in that small container maybe 3-4tbsp?

After melting in the paraffin(I just heated it up with a lighter in a spoon) then stirring it altogether it was pretty fluid, but then once it all cooled down it's more of a fairly thick paste. Stays on the tool til it heats up and then melts in

My rapid tap is prob ~ 10 years ish old or more
 
Jswain

Jswain

Joe
The er32 collet chuck is really bothering me so want to make sure the lathe is on before I make any(more) mistakes.

I bumped it in again yesterday to within .0015" but then once youre out even just a couple inches it is way out to lunch (.015")

I'm fairly confident that the chuck itself is bored at an angle but I made a test bar to get the headstock straight first. As you can see it was quite out(~.007)

After getting it to around .001" I decided that probably as realistic as I can measure with ~ 5.5" of stickout and 1.250" pipe.

Using the dumbbell setup. Took ~.030" off in the middle then light cuts on each end & measuring with a micrometer
 

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Jswain

Jswain

Joe
Bed twist I guess. Got it as level as I could end to end and then shimmed up the front of the tailstock between the table ~.005" at a time with feeler gauges.

Now I think I have some success with the er32 collet chuck(hopefully)o_O


Only thing I could think to do was recut the taper very lightly. Aligned the compound and just skimmed it 2x with .001" on the cross slide dial, now the runout at the chuck is basically gone. I tried with everything resembling precision I could fit in the chuck and got basically the same runout.:eek:

I think going forward I'll put the 4jaw back on, turn a bar down to 3/4"(just about my biggest collet) as long as I can without a taper. Then mount the collet chuck back on the lathe and chuck that piece to check runout further out.

I don't have anything else that's long and precise so I think that was some of the problem too.

To be fair I told you guys I was a shitty machinist :p
 
Ironman

Ironman

Ultra Member
One of the nicest things you can do for yourself is to change out you handwheels for the freewheeling type especially when you have a powerfeed running. All mine got swapped except for the knee wheel
 
Susquatch

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Jswain said:
My rapid tap is prob ~ 10 years ish old or more
Click to expand...

Rapid Tap still sells cutting fluids and has actually improved their product lineup. Pretty sure all of them are available on Amazon.

Rapid Tap is not my favorite product but I have a bottle of each just to use when I don't really need better stuff.
 
Susquatch

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Ironman said:
One of the nicest things you can do for yourself is to change out you handwheels for the freewheeling type especially when you have a powerfeed running. All mine got swapped except for the knee wheel
Click to expand...

Just when you think there is nothing new to see, somebody says something about something you have never seen. What the heck is a freewheeling handwheel? And what are its advantages?
 
Jswain

Jswain

Joe
Susquatch said:
Rapid Tap still sells cutting fluids and has actually improved their product lineup. Pretty sure all of them are available on Amazon.

Rapid Tap is not my favorite product but I have a bottle of each just to use when I don't really need better stuff.
Click to expand...
What others do you like to use? I think someday I'll pick up a gallon of rigid dark cutting oil cuz it's cheap.
 
Susquatch

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Jswain said:
What others do you like to use? I think someday I'll pick up a gallon of rigid dark cutting oil cuz it's cheap.
Click to expand...

I have Rapid Tap:
Heavy Duty for steel
Tap Magic Aluminium
Hot Max for Stainless
Extreme Xtra Thick for hard steel


My goto is Vipers Venom for precision work

& WD40 for most aluminium work.

I could use a high volume of regular cutting oil too.
 
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