• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

JCDammeyer's 42 projects

Doggggboy said:
You could try a softer grade of TPU. Some of it is pretty soft.
You could also try some silicon baking pans. My wife has some that are much thicker than the silicon baking sheets.

General PDP Template

www.canadiantire.ca www.canadiantire.ca
Click to expand...
Those look interesting. Didn't see them today when I was there. But SWMBO tagged along and I can't always be as slow as I'd like.

I've printed a second TPU gasket. The first is silicone sealed into the lid. I've also silicone sealed the other TPU O-Rings for the other containers. Tomorrow I'll see how that worked out.

I have a different idea that may be the ideal solution. Cdn. Tire still carries the replaceable gaskets used for canning jars. If I recreate the containers to have a smaller neck and opening to use standard canning jar lids and have them recessed so they don't interfere with the rollers that turn the container then I can use COTS (Commercial Off The Shelf) lids and gaskets.

I'm worried about softer TPU gumming up the print head. Plus just the cost of buying it.

In this way the rock tumbler can have multiple containers, one for each grit.
 
jcdammeyer said:
That flex seal spray could likely make a decent gasket since it would settle smooth. I think...
Click to expand...

I've used it & I don't think suitable compared to just harvesting baking silicone of the right thickness. The spray on is quite thin, it would take multiple coats to build up thickness & involves fussy masking. Its mor intended as a static coating, not really intended to be torqued on which will happen every time you screw the lid. The liquid is more viscous but even that would be quite thing. I tried coating tool handles to mimic like a set of pliers. It kind of works but did not bond like factory stuff.

IMO sheet stock is really the best option. The trick will be how to cut it reasonably precisely. At minimum a hard template you push down on material & slice with Xaxcto. A die is overkill.
I would bet the original one was molded. Now I do have some 2-part silicone that could be poured into a 3DP ring mold. The issue is its very soft durometer. I think 29 (oh what the heck is that scale now?) anyway willing to try if you run out of options. That damn lid is going to set you back $100 by the time its done - but we must succeed! LOL
 
I have used the spray on type as in the dark can in the bottom picture. I can't see it being any use to you in your application. I was amazed by this product though. Several years ago I moved my 20 year old septic tank and in the process had to remove and reinstall the pvc pipes. As a result there was a leak somewhere between an ooze and a dribble, wet, old, slimy, dirty concrete. I was expecting to spray it on an watch it flow away but no, it flowed right into the leak and after maybe five coats a minute apart the leak was gone and a nice clean dry matte black finish was left.
Also, unrelated but about canning lids. My wife holds the world title of best dill pickle maker ever. She has been making them for over 30 years. We have boxes of jars and lids and all that stuff everywhere plus cupboards full of food. This year she did 80 large jars of dills and after a month or so we could hear the odd popping sound and on inspection it was evident that the seals on the jars were failing and the pickles were spoiling. Probably about a fifty percent failure rate. Pissed she called Bernardin and they said they had changed their seal material a few years back and you no longer sterilize the lids in boiling water, just rinse and use. No apologies or nothing, the new lid boxes look exactly the same but the new procedure is printed in the instructions but how many of us would re read the instructions on a new bottle of LocTite ? Why couldn't they have changed the color on the box or printed " new and improved " or something so one would notice the change. Bastards. No Christmas pickles for anyone this year, Johnny comes first.
Rant over.
 
Actually this may be the best option for your bottle gasket. You can generate 3DP a female mold of the ring to whatever dimensions work, then press in silicone mold putty (or pour in depending on the product). I've used this stuff in the past, the properties & material quality does vary a bit. But its pretty close to what you would be getting in sheet form AFAIK. I don't think you would need a mold release, it is kind of engineered for that purpose. But I'm saying don't try Vaseline or some such homebrew solution as it may inhibit cure & actually create problems. My experience with this is more with composite products where the silicone acts as a mold from which to pull epoxy-type composite parts. I'd recommend a female ring mold & then use a flat plate to squeeze excess to final thickness. Maybe a bleed channel if you want to get fancy.

 
pretty much exactly your application if you look at examples in comments

1738346111394.png
 
PeterT said:
pretty much exactly your application if you look at examples in comments

View attachment 58985
Click to expand...
Funny. I had totally forgotten that I had this stuff sitting on a top shelf in a shop cupboard.
I bought it before I had a 3D printer to make molds to create plastic LED stair light containers. I molded one out of WEST Epoxy and it went really well. But then the 3D printer arrived and so many things changed.

1738451355933.png


Now although I've not yet been able to make a container that doesn't ooze a bit of water through a seam or around the lid area the one container with a standard large size mason jar lid has been running with rocks and water for about 20 minutes and no sign of water oozing out. The lids are from Walmart and although I had to buy 10 the cost, ($1.52 ea), was comparable to the amount of 3D filament and some sort of sealing material.

1738451516048.png
 
jcdammeyer said:
I had totally forgotten that I had this stuff sitting on a top shelf in a shop cupboard
Click to expand...
Very similar durometer to what I have, which is pretty squishy but give it a try since you have it. Samples I poured into a graduated cup plain & with black pigment additive. The combination of a 3D printer to make molds & this pour in silicone is actually a pretty useful combination
 

Attachments

  • 01022503.jpg
    01022503.jpg
    29.5 KB · Views: 1
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top