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JCDammeyer's 42 projects

I agree, In part. No air in or around the grinders to blow swarf around, but once removed, feel free to blow a vise out. If you have coolant, a wash down hose is sometimes better. Not always. Air in a shop is another hot button topic. So polarizing......Around other machines it's ok to blow chips out by me, just be careful to not blow stuff INTO crevices, and behind way covers etc. Used sparingly, and correctly it's great. Used wrong, it's destructive. I don't like blanket rules trying to cover all situations. Education and proper instruction are much better than catch all rules like "no air at all". Engage brain first before doing anything. YMMV.

Sorry John, didn't mean to start opinion wars in your thread lol.
 
Using air in the shop is similar to using a pressure washer on a machine. I would cringe when fellow dirt bikers would go at the mud on their bikes - full blast on the suspension components. In those areas, I only used garden hose pressure and was careful even with it. As Dan said - when used correctly/carefully such things can be a big time saver and not be damaging. I regularly used the pressure washer on the muddy bike but only for specific areas and very carefully.
 
Dan Dubeau said:
Gerardi vises are great workholding tools. I think they actually hold stock better, and square-er than kurt style, but the moving fixed jaw was a non starter for me.
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Didn't they show you how to lock the fixed jaw down? I do it all the time when needed for reference dimensions etc. The beauty of it is that leaving the moving jaw unfixed still retains the pull down feature. But if you want, you can lock them both down.
 
Yep, I know how to lock the fixed jaw down. But I couldn't figure out how to swap to aluminum soft jaws quickly, or to talon grips, or back to hard jaws again....

Gerardi's were great, but they weren't always the best or most versatile work holding tool available. Another downside is they had way more nooks and crannies for chips to pack into. A bit of a PIA in a VMC, when blowing out between parts. For us, they were way more useful as a secondary vise, than a primary one. Everybody's needs are different. They had their place, it just wasn't on my mill table.
 
Tweaked the depth of the pockets that are there so the heat sink doesn't run into capacitors on the PC board.

AdjustingPockets.jpg

All done.
Heatsinks.jpg
 
DavidR8 said:
Nice work John.
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Thanks but the credit all goes to @kstrauss for making them in the first place. Had I evaluated his sample properly or even just sent him a sample I wouldn't have had fun in the shop.

All my projects tend to be one-of type machining. Doing a bunch of something is such a learning experience. It's also really clear that I don't quite have the backlash setting correct and that I really need to get ball screws for this puppy.

I even used the timer on my phone to calculate 02:24.59 for one complete cycle. That includes manually moving the lever for cooling air. The G-Code does turn on a relay but there's no wire from the relay to the solenoid. #42 on the list...
 
jcdammeyer said:
Added another project to the list.
I've ordered his PC board. Got the Fusion360 files for the design and a friend will change them to STEP files for me.
Ordered the strain gauges and spirit level from AliExpress.
I think I'm crazy...
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Finally! Shipped on 13NOV2024, held up by mail strike, I signed for the package today. Of course now I'm way to busy with other stuff and it will be a while before I can get to this. Just have to make sure I have all the 0603 resistors and capacitors etc. Already have the strain gauges and processor module and of course the 3D printing etc is complete.

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The hard plastic lid on this bottle finally wore out it's threads. Both leaked and the bottle even let go. So a bit of work with a caliper and the metric thread gauge I determined the pitch was 1.75mm. A bit of work in AlibreCAD and then first 3D print just the thread portion to make sure it fit. Then add the handle to the drawing and print that.

I used PLA and Support PLA. May try it in PETG as PLA is a bit more brittle. I could see the threads snapping off.

I tried some simple foam as a gasket. You can just see the white bit peeking out but it's not really thick enough and so I need something better.
Any suggestions on where to buy say 3/16" thick rubber type gasket material?


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jcdammeyer said:
Any suggestions on where to buy say 3/16" thick rubber type gasket material?
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Every fab shop on earth has one of these.

IMG_0091.jpeg

If you can’t find one, give me a dimension and I’ll cut you a few squares of EPDM gasket material and mail them to you. Buddy of mine owns the largest gasket importer in BC.
 
whydontu said:
Every fab shop on earth has one of these.

View attachment 58870
If you can’t find one, give me a dimension and I’ll cut you a few squares of EPDM gasket material and mail them to you. Buddy of mine owns the largest gasket importer in BC.
Click to expand...
I have an ulterior motive for wanting solid rubber gasket material. The TPU 3D printed gasket is a touch hard and so the tub still leaks. Now it could be because it's not glued into the lid. I'm thinking I'll need some silicone seal under it anyway. Rubber or not as the plastic isn't super smooth.

The white rubber gasket in the original bottle cap is not so much an o-ring but a flat seal like you'd find on a garden hose but larger in diameter.

I was thinking maybe Michaels or some other craft store or maybe automotive supply. Then I can get sheets of various thickness.

But if you have something I'm headed out to Coquitlam again next week assuming they get the boards finished.

1738211372429.png
 
You probably want silicone or one of those food safe products. There are many good industrial products that would do a great job (seal, durometer, UV, dishwasher proof) but you may catch a whiff of a chemically smell/taste. I have bought small sheets on Amazon, it comes in various thicknesses. But also take a wander down a home goods store or do a search on Amazon & see what comes up. Likely there is some product made from same material you can just cut your shape from. Silicon is used extensively in cooking & baking & BBQ. I've seen cookie sheets but might be a but thin judging by your pic
 
Seems to be lots of stock silicon sheets on Amazon but majority is thinner (for cooking, crafts etc). This one says 0.125" ~ 3mm (probably metric anyways). This is way cheaper on Ali but might be a bit of lead time.
I might have something in the shop but if its what I'm recalling, it was red & adhesive on one side

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After looking through a number of different types of stores today ad not finding gasket material I took a chance and removed the white gasket from the original cap. No leaks when put onto the blue PLA printed cap.

Of course not wanting to leave well enough alone I finally unpacked the PLA-CF that came with the printer. PLA with carbon fibre and the Bambu Labs program immediately warned me that this filament is very brittle and could break inside... do I want to continue.

Of course I did. Wow! This time I didn't let the slicer reduce the complexity. Man it came out pretty. Fit really well. No leaks.

From left to right the original. Then the first test for thread quality without having to waste filament on the top part. The blue was going to be the final but with the gasket I noticed that there was overall less thread engagement so I added another linear millimetre of thread and less non-threaded area at the start.

Also now has a hole in the middle like the original. Printed with PLA support filament 1 hour and 27 minutes.
1738291127718.png
 
As for the other gasket material on that large lid I still feel the TPU printed gasket is too hard. I bought some clear silicone to back up the bottom of the gasket against the slightly rough surface.

But at Cdn. Tire I also looked at these materials. Anyone ever used any of these? That flex seal spray could likely make a decent gasket since it would settle smooth. I think...

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