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JCDammeyer's 42 projects
- Thread starter jcdammeyer
- Start date
Busy printing...
I misunderstood and thought the file you posted was already 101% but turns out not. Way too small. Then I measured the Matter3D spool and compared it to the Elegoo spool which turns out to be larger and took a swing at 105%. Way too large. So then I went 102% in X and Y.
Nice fit. Just waiting now for the second half and then I'll try an Elegoo
This was a bit more difficult than I expected. I had to remove one of the motor terminal blocks to get at the capacitor. Then pulled it up too quickly and damaged a bit of the PC land on the other terminal. Added some 0.1uF caps and I by chance had two 220uF 35V radial caps the same size on hand. Installed all that and I've left the diodes for now.
Ran 24V into it and the motor ran with 22V. Increased the input voltage to 25.7V to get 24V across the motor. Draws a total of 300mA at 25.7V which is 7.7W. I'm also running the encoder from the 5V and it's a nice stable waveform.
Next step is a bit of Arduino code I guess to control motor speed. But glad I replaced the caps since 25V caps with 25.7V is a tad too close to the edge for me. Probably work but I don't like blowing up caps.
Forgot to post the photos. Here's an original with the 25V Electrolytics and no high frequency bipass caps.
Here's a modified one with the 0.1uF (100nF) on both the VS and VSS pins of the driver.
And on the top side, new electrolytics good to 35V and look closely on the 78M05 you will see two 0803 size 0.1uF caps tacked onto the pins.
I have yet to swap out the 1N4007 rectifier diodes for for Schottkey high speed low dropout voltage diodes.
It will not be easy to add any sort of over current support on this board. I'd have to design a new one and move the parts over.
Sorry about that, I should have been more clear.
The Anycubic rolls are slightly small diameter than the Matter3D rolls.
Looks like the Elegoo will work but printer is busy at the moment making a watering can with a small spout so I can more easily water the seed pods in Herbus. Another hour to go before this puppy is done.
Hmmm. With the two pieces on a brand new Elegoo cardboard holder full of white filament the reel is now so large it actually rubs on the top of the AMS. Not really tightly but enough to mark the surface.
So I'm back to rewinding what I have onto plastic reels.
Couldn't resist. My morning chuckle.
Gee, in looking through my project boxes for an encoder I found this project. Still works. Software is from 1997 for a PIC16C57 which requires a programmer and a UV lamp eraser.
Ah the good old days of wire-wrap.
Ah the good old days of wire-wrap.
And with that encoder connected to an Arduino UNO R4 and a bit of research on the web I have output logged to the serial port:
First number is absolute encoder count and second one is number of pulses per time interval which in this case is 1 second and me trying to turn the encoder at a repeatable rate. Ha ha. Going to have to connect this to a motor to see real pulses per second.
Terminal log file
Date: 2025-03-07 - 4:02:22 PM
-----------------------------------------------
52718 0
52726 8
50700 -2027
52756 2057
55748 2993
60253 4507
63066 2810
1306 3776
5794 4489
11130 5335
11288 158
11288 0
11288 0
-----------------------------------------------
Date: 2025-03-07 - 4:02:35 PM
End log file
First number is absolute encoder count and second one is number of pulses per time interval which in this case is 1 second and me trying to turn the encoder at a repeatable rate. Ha ha. Going to have to connect this to a motor to see real pulses per second.
Terminal log file
Date: 2025-03-07 - 4:02:22 PM
-----------------------------------------------
52718 0
52726 8
50700 -2027
52756 2057
55748 2993
60253 4507
63066 2810
1306 3776
5794 4489
11130 5335
11288 158
11288 0
11288 0
-----------------------------------------------
Date: 2025-03-07 - 4:02:35 PM
End log file
Moving along here today I spent time on the lathe. Yeah. Metal working. Spent a few minutes looking for the 3-jaw chuck key. Had totally forgotten that it has a place in the tool caddy with all the 5C collets.
Anyway. Starting with 1/2" unknown steel with orange paint on the end I turned down to 1/4" for about 10mm and center drilled the end. The 1/4" is to fit into a ball bearing in the junk box.
Then the 12mm diameter. Finally the 1.75mm pitch threading until a nut just smoothly went on. Better than when the nut goes onto a standard bolt.
The other end was turned down until 8mm and a smooth sliding fit into another bearing and the coupler for the motor.
Meanwhile 3D printing various frames. Haven't decided on a final design yet. The arm that guides the filament pivots in the grey piece which is moved back and forth 1.75mm per revolution of the take-up spool. The software will let us specify how many turns for the plastic hub. It varies between 42 and 46.
Anyway. Starting with 1/2" unknown steel with orange paint on the end I turned down to 1/4" for about 10mm and center drilled the end. The 1/4" is to fit into a ball bearing in the junk box.
Then the 12mm diameter. Finally the 1.75mm pitch threading until a nut just smoothly went on. Better than when the nut goes onto a standard bolt.
The other end was turned down until 8mm and a smooth sliding fit into another bearing and the coupler for the motor.
Meanwhile 3D printing various frames. Haven't decided on a final design yet. The arm that guides the filament pivots in the grey piece which is moved back and forth 1.75mm per revolution of the take-up spool. The software will let us specify how many turns for the plastic hub. It varies between 42 and 46.
Go figure, I've been wondering if you could do that!
See! That's what is wrong with filers and neat freaks. I always know exactly where my key is. It is always in a pile on the closest surface to where I use it.
I love this about single point threading too. The method's only downfall is that a different nut might not work.
Actually I ran the tap through the nut just like I cleaned up the 3D printed threads with the tap. A new nut from Cdn Tire or Rona etc may be a bit tight. But I wanted a close tolerance fit as the 3D printed piece (or later maybe Delrin or Nylon) is the lead screw.
I do have a die so I could have chased the threads with the die. Might still do that but yes single point threading 1.75mm pitch with the South Bend Heavy 10L that has a 10TPI lead screw.