Marc Moreau
Marc Moreau
Nice job this table must be heavy by the size of the top plate.
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Daily Shop Improvement
- Thread starter Janger
- Start date
Carriage Stop - here's a small project that I'm finally getting around to posting the pictures.
View attachment 9588
Yes that's my cane laying there, can't get around without it.
View attachment 9588
Yes that's my cane laying there, can't get around without it.
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And the info on how I made same.
Lathe Carriage Stop (made for Craftex10"x18" B2227L lathe)
Materials: Steel & Brass
Body - 1" thick x 3" long x 1 & 3/8" high.
Bottom Plate - 3/8" thick x 2 & 1/" long x 1 & 1/8"wide.
Stainless Steel - 1/16" thick <L> shaped back plate guide that fitsdown the
carriage stop toe and under the way.
Adjusting Rod - 3 & 3/4" long x 5/16" diameter with 5/16"-24thread turned
down to 1/4" at the carriage end with a flat spot milled at the other end
for knob set screw.
Brass bumper end that strikes the carriage 3/8" diameter x 3/4" longdrilled
out to fit the 1/4" adjusting rod end which leave lots for re-facing same.
Glue used J-B Weld which I have much faith in.
Knurled Knob - 1" diameter with 5/16"-24 internal thread.
Set Screw for knurled knob - 1/4"-20 x 3/16" long.
Red Plastic Knob - something I had on hand which fit nicely.
Brass Screw - 1/4"-20 x 1 & 3/8" long so not to mar adjusting rodthreads.
Socket Cap Screws - 5/17"-18 x 1 & 1/2" long.
-two 3/16"-24 x 3/4" long.
- 3/16"-24 x 1/2" long.
Birchwood Casey Super Blue - used on carriage stop body.
J-B Weld (Original)
Screw clearance above and forward of lead screw more than adequate clearance for
hex key.
Brass - 0.020 thick - during milling I accidently removed too much steel in
two places so I deepened them to 0.020". Then I glued in two pieces
of 0.020" brass (shim) for want of a word which corrected the error.
Glue used was J-B Weld, handy stuff.
Lathe Carriage Stop (made for Craftex10"x18" B2227L lathe)
Materials: Steel & Brass
Body - 1" thick x 3" long x 1 & 3/8" high.
Bottom Plate - 3/8" thick x 2 & 1/" long x 1 & 1/8"wide.
Stainless Steel - 1/16" thick <L> shaped back plate guide that fitsdown the
carriage stop toe and under the way.
Adjusting Rod - 3 & 3/4" long x 5/16" diameter with 5/16"-24thread turned
down to 1/4" at the carriage end with a flat spot milled at the other end
for knob set screw.
Brass bumper end that strikes the carriage 3/8" diameter x 3/4" longdrilled
out to fit the 1/4" adjusting rod end which leave lots for re-facing same.
Glue used J-B Weld which I have much faith in.
Knurled Knob - 1" diameter with 5/16"-24 internal thread.
Set Screw for knurled knob - 1/4"-20 x 3/16" long.
Red Plastic Knob - something I had on hand which fit nicely.
Brass Screw - 1/4"-20 x 1 & 3/8" long so not to mar adjusting rodthreads.
Socket Cap Screws - 5/17"-18 x 1 & 1/2" long.
-two 3/16"-24 x 3/4" long.
- 3/16"-24 x 1/2" long.
Birchwood Casey Super Blue - used on carriage stop body.
J-B Weld (Original)
Screw clearance above and forward of lead screw more than adequate clearance for
hex key.
Brass - 0.020 thick - during milling I accidently removed too much steel in
two places so I deepened them to 0.020". Then I glued in two pieces
of 0.020" brass (shim) for want of a word which corrected the error.
Glue used was J-B Weld, handy stuff.
QCTP Drill Rig - Another project, now you know why I needed the 6mm brass ball oilers.
View attachment 9595
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And the info on how I made it.
QCTP- 90° Cross & Offset Drill Rig
Materials: Steel & Brass
Dedicated AXA Accusize 250-101T Tool Holder
Body - mild steel 2" diameter x 2 1/2" long.
- milled 5/8" flat on one side of body to fasten key stock.
- mild steel spacer 1/4" x 3'4" drilled holes in spacer to fitbetween body and key stock
- drill & tap three evenly spaced holes for 1/4"-20 x 1" capscrews in flat of body.
said holes will marry up with the hole in the 5/8" key stock.
- chucked body then drilled 3/8" pilot hole full length.
- followed by .096" hole for brass bushings.
- top of body drilled two 3/16" holes 1/2" from toe and heel into the0.096" hole cavity.
- followed this with 6mm holes deep enough to take the two 6mm brass oilers.
- oil drain centered bottom of body drill 3/16" hole into 0.096"cavity then counter sink.
- clean body then coated same with Birchwood Casey Super Blue.
Brass Bushings - (note: I barely had enough brass stock to work with 1"x 2& 1/4")
- turned O/D down to a hair under 0.097"
- drilled pilot hole followed by 31/64" undersize drill for 1/2"reamer.
- cut brass bushing in half (faced ends) leaving me with two 0.097" x 1& 1/16".
- pushed bushings into heel and toe of body slightly recessed from body face.
- drilled 1/8" hole through brass bushings from top of body into bushingcavities.
- chucked body then passed 1/2" reamer one more time to remove drillburrs.
- blew out body cavities then pushed the two 6mm oilers into place at toe andheel.
Key Stock - 5/8" x 4 & 3/8" long angled inwards at the toe,additional finger room at chuck end.
- match the spacing in key stock from (square end) with the heel end of thebody
then drilled three 1/4" holes with recess right side of key stock forthree 1/4" cap screws.
Drill Shaft - 1/2" x 9 & 1/4" Drill Rod which was 0.005"oversize so I polished it down lightly with
Norton 150 grit fine 1" cloth tape.
- turned down the toe end to 3/8" threading it to 3/8"-24UNF for mykeyless chuck.
- milled the heel end to 3/8" square so as I could turn threads with taphandle.
- made two brass washers 1/16" thick x 7/8" diameter. One witha 3/8" hole for the toe
meaning (chuck end) at the heel end 1/2" hole for the main shaft.
- installed a set screw collar with brass screw 1/4"-20 x 1/2" so itwouldn't mar the drill rod
shaft. The set screw collar acts as a drill depth gauge stop.
LATHE - to lock the chuck in position for drilling I simply set the Head Stockgear handles to
the lowest speed of 115 RPM. Locked.....!
- to drill offset to the chuck face simply turn the QCTP a quarter turn to therear then
reverse the shaft.
- Don't forget to add your 1/2" cordless drill.
QCTP- 90° Cross & Offset Drill Rig
Materials: Steel & Brass
Dedicated AXA Accusize 250-101T Tool Holder
Body - mild steel 2" diameter x 2 1/2" long.
- milled 5/8" flat on one side of body to fasten key stock.
- mild steel spacer 1/4" x 3'4" drilled holes in spacer to fitbetween body and key stock
- drill & tap three evenly spaced holes for 1/4"-20 x 1" capscrews in flat of body.
said holes will marry up with the hole in the 5/8" key stock.
- chucked body then drilled 3/8" pilot hole full length.
- followed by .096" hole for brass bushings.
- top of body drilled two 3/16" holes 1/2" from toe and heel into the0.096" hole cavity.
- followed this with 6mm holes deep enough to take the two 6mm brass oilers.
- oil drain centered bottom of body drill 3/16" hole into 0.096"cavity then counter sink.
- clean body then coated same with Birchwood Casey Super Blue.
Brass Bushings - (note: I barely had enough brass stock to work with 1"x 2& 1/4")
- turned O/D down to a hair under 0.097"
- drilled pilot hole followed by 31/64" undersize drill for 1/2"reamer.
- cut brass bushing in half (faced ends) leaving me with two 0.097" x 1& 1/16".
- pushed bushings into heel and toe of body slightly recessed from body face.
- drilled 1/8" hole through brass bushings from top of body into bushingcavities.
- chucked body then passed 1/2" reamer one more time to remove drillburrs.
- blew out body cavities then pushed the two 6mm oilers into place at toe andheel.
Key Stock - 5/8" x 4 & 3/8" long angled inwards at the toe,additional finger room at chuck end.
- match the spacing in key stock from (square end) with the heel end of thebody
then drilled three 1/4" holes with recess right side of key stock forthree 1/4" cap screws.
Drill Shaft - 1/2" x 9 & 1/4" Drill Rod which was 0.005"oversize so I polished it down lightly with
Norton 150 grit fine 1" cloth tape.
- turned down the toe end to 3/8" threading it to 3/8"-24UNF for mykeyless chuck.
- milled the heel end to 3/8" square so as I could turn threads with taphandle.
- made two brass washers 1/16" thick x 7/8" diameter. One witha 3/8" hole for the toe
meaning (chuck end) at the heel end 1/2" hole for the main shaft.
- installed a set screw collar with brass screw 1/4"-20 x 1/2" so itwouldn't mar the drill rod
shaft. The set screw collar acts as a drill depth gauge stop.
LATHE - to lock the chuck in position for drilling I simply set the Head Stockgear handles to
the lowest speed of 115 RPM. Locked.....!
- to drill offset to the chuck face simply turn the QCTP a quarter turn to therear then
reverse the shaft.
- Don't forget to add your 1/2" cordless drill.
Looks good, Dusty!
I initially used a cap screw to hold down my stop but replaced with one of these quick action handles. One less hex wrench to remember! You can detente the handle off to one side or another to clear things. I like your red knob lock more than my double jamb nut. Does it grip the threads nice & tight?
You might want to consider another one for the right side of carriage. having 2 stops comes in handy when you you have to turn a groove feature in between 2 dimensions. I use my stops mostly for roughing but its surprisingly repeatable as long as everything is locked solid & you just kiss the end of the stop, probably within 1-2 thou.
I initially used a cap screw to hold down my stop but replaced with one of these quick action handles. One less hex wrench to remember! You can detente the handle off to one side or another to clear things. I like your red knob lock more than my double jamb nut. Does it grip the threads nice & tight?
You might want to consider another one for the right side of carriage. having 2 stops comes in handy when you you have to turn a groove feature in between 2 dimensions. I use my stops mostly for roughing but its surprisingly repeatable as long as everything is locked solid & you just kiss the end of the stop, probably within 1-2 thou.
Attachments
DPittman
Ultra Member
It was worthy of duplicate pictures. Nice job.
Thats got to be one of the cleanest shiniest lathes I've seen.
Thank you for the complement, keep reminding the list I haven't done any work on the lathe outside of keeping it lightly oiled due to my knee/leg issues. Besides that's my air force jet training showing through. meaning good housekeeping. The biggest killer for a jet engine is FOD meaning (foreign object damage) and a fine example of that is what happened at Kamloops. Bill
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Very nice Bill. And thanks for posting the materials details and threading. Good stuff.
Beauty work @Dusty!! a lathe carriage stop is on my list of things to make after I get a few other projects cleared up - great ideas!!
Your drill attachment looks really pro!!! excellent - 2 thumbs up
Beauty work @Dusty!! a lathe carriage stop is on my list of things to make after I get a few other projects cleared up - great ideas!!
Your drill attachment looks really pro!!! excellent - 2 thumbs up
Both projects work fine and the drill rig saves loads of time. Here's where I got the idea for the carriage stop along with the templates I made.
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Any job worth doing is worth doing well so my Scottish grandfather taught me. I use the KISS method in putting up the photos and build information. KISS method meaning 'keep it simple stupid'. So when one supplies the background music (information) along with pictures there's much less confusion don't you think? Bill
Marc Moreau
Marc Moreau
Very nice job Thank You for the Pictures.
Awesome work Bill!!. I have also seen that popular mechanics image for the micrometer stop. It is on my list, once I get back on my lathe and finish the dial indicator holder that I am making. Currently, busy with making a base cabinet for my table saw.
