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Daily Shop Improvement

The collars are working well, it was that or spend $70 each for new wheels that have the same poor design.
 
I finally made a jacking screw for my bandsaw vise. I made a wobble nut so the screw can be be slipped in to the approximate position. The first picture shows it angled to where it will slip in. The second one shows it with the threads engaged. A looser thread standard would likely work better as there isn’t many threads left in the nut.
i am going to have to fire my welder. First he welded the nut on the wrong side of the jaw and when he got it on the right side he didn’t get it at quite the right angle. It seems to work though.
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Cool! Never heard of a wobble nut before?

How do you like the wood fill in the blade slot? I find it real handy.

Craig
 
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Hi Johnwa, I agree with YYCHM cool however, I don't understand the need for the wobble nut. Isn't a bolt square on with the back plate stronger?

Would you kindly explain your theory behind using a wobble nut whatever that is?

Sort of lost with this although it doesn't take much these days.

Bill
 
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@YYCHobbyMachinist I like it. I made it after I saw your post.

@Dusty A solid nut is stronger but with a wobble nut is way quicker. If the screw needs to be 4” you just shove it in approximately 4” and then a few turns to adjust. With my 3/8x16 screw a solid nut would mean 64 turns. So far mine seems to be strong enough.
 
@YYCHobbyMachinist
I‘m sure there is a proper way, mine was by eyeball.

You have to start with a fairly thick piece of steel. I used ½ but I think ¾ would be better. First drill and tap at 90 degrees. Then you set it up an angle in a milling vice and run a larger endmill through it. You are aiming for 1/2 thread left at both ends. I drew up this after the fact. I tried a few different angles until it looked right.
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There is another design used extensively on cut-off saws, stop at most any hardware store with a tool isle and you would be able to see an example, not sure if a fac-simile would be easier to build than Johns but they sure do work slick...they are more or less a 1/2 nut top that flips over a treaded vise adjusting ready rod. push with your hand until all the slack is removed and then give 1/4 turn...takes a lot longer to type than actually use.
 
There is another design used extensively on cut-off saws, stop at most any hardware store with a tool isle and you would be able to see an example, not sure if a fac-simile would be easier to build than Johns but they sure do work slick...they are more or less a 1/2 nut top that flips over a treaded vise adjusting ready rod. push with your hand until all the slack is removed and then give 1/4 turn...takes a lot longer to type than actually use.

When johnwa first mentioned 'wobble nut' I went out to my shop (attached garage) and took a close look at how my Makita chop saw worked. Not easy to see the inner working of the quick release although I assumed it was built along the lines you mention above. Not easy for me to move about with my lame right knee and leg. Bill
 
@Johnwa - I too have fired my welder - but, I love the guy - He always gets hired back. Can’t help myself I guess! Punish him with some time off, a cold beverage and he will be back begging for his job!
 
For casting enthusiasts, the Gingery series of books uses a split nut casting to drive the lead screw..... same concept

Pretty fine cast required, I ended up welding mine, tapped a thread in some pipe, then surgically cut out the pieces and welded it in place.

Your way is cleaner


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I needed a place to keep a notepad at the mill so a little cut and chop on a bit of aluminium (1/8 plate) and attached it to one of the head bolts. Until I find a better clamp to hold the notepad a spring clamp will have to do.
 

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I needed a place to keep a notepad at the mill so a little cut and chop on a bit of aluminium (1/8 plate) and attached it to one of the head bolts. Until I find a better clamp to hold the notepad a spring clamp will have to do.
Great idea, and good looking mill!
 
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