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Daily Shop Improvement

I needed a place to keep a notepad at the mill so a little cut and chop on a bit of aluminium (1/8 plate) and attached it to one of the head bolts. Until I find a better clamp to hold the notepad a spring clamp will have to do.
This machine is like mine. Just different color.
 
David - we bought our mills within a couple of days of each other.
YYC - The mill is a KBC branded 830 (8x30 inch table) dated 1995 so it's one of the generic Taiwan machines. Sure beats the old hacksaw and file method and just a bit more accurate.
Marc - what is the brand on yours?
 
Since we are on mill improvements and I was showing mine some love for the surfacing of my son’s exhaust manifold - I finally completed the base on mine.

I made the base so I could “theoretically move” my mill - hahahahaha - cough - :D

But it has found its place and I needed to level it and get it on some firm support. Watching the you tube there is a set of Bridgeport type machine leveles with some rubber feet. I upped the construction a bit and it is all tied into my original base.
Pads are 1/2” x 4” plate with 3/4” pipe welded on. Jack bolts are 1”-8 tpi threaded rod.
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Nice work Brent H. Did you uses 'sintered iron or machined steel' casters? What load do the casters carry? Bill
 
@Dusty : the load for the castors was 750 lbs each. The mill was approximately 2300 lbs plus accessories and a table load max of 750 lbs. (I think) The castors are from princess auto (4”) size. Concept was to allow the castors to include a bit of movement if required and the feet would lock things down.
 
@Dusty : the load for the castors was 750 lbs each. The mill was approximately 2300 lbs plus accessories and a table load max of 750 lbs. (I think) The castors are from princess auto (4”) size. Concept was to allow the castors to include a bit of movement if required and the feet would lock things down.

How did you get a 2300 lb mill into that tray????
 
@YYCHobbyMachinist
How did you get a 2300 lb mill into that tray????

1. ask very politely
2. Spread some swarf in the opening and wait for it to jump
3. Have a neighbour as nutty as yourself that happens to own a fork truck :p

When I bought the mill I went to the steel store and bought some 6X4 x 1/2” angle and welded up the base. When I got the mill home (The next day) my neighbour boogied over in his fork truck (he bought about 2 days prior :cool:) and we lowered the mill in. Took a bit to move all the stuff around my shop so it could fit.
 
This morning I made a handful of nuts for my strap clamp set. They are good high carbon steel so they should outlast a regular nut. I machined them out of round stock and made them to match the cheap strap clamp set for the milling machine.
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For casting enthusiasts, the Gingery series of books uses a split nut casting to drive the lead screw..... same concept

Pretty fine cast required, I ended up welding mine, tapped a thread in some pipe, then surgically cut out the pieces and welded it in place.

Your way is cleaner


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I wasn’t really happy with my first version. @kevin.decelles mention of the Gingery nut gave me an idea. Here is version 2. I think it is easier to make this way. This time I also managed to weld it at an angle that tends to force thread engagement.
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For all the metal casters Johnson & Johnson is discontinuing talc in their baby powder so if that is what you use for parting powder it’s best to stock up.
 
Well I am back to Work but before I left I finished a steel pan for my welding table. The pan fits under the table and will collect anything falling through the table clamp holes and - (once home again) will be fitted with spacers to hold parts when using the plasma cutter.
The table slides out either side.
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Should work well.
 
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