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CT 043 issues ..... Repairs - Completed !!

combustable herbage said:
Monday morning way too much sake on the weekend.
Good work on the measuring, things became a lot clearer, it can be tough sometimes when you don't have something to compare it too.
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And spending an entire career working on low voltage DC stuff , being nearly oblivious about AC motors . I’ve always had success working on Cranes , Snow Cats and all
Manner of road or off road vehicles
 
No beer for me

The electrical box is back on the lathe , the motor is still on the bench.

KA works and like before , it's sticky .

KM1 ( reverse ) clicks and I have 120 volts to all three motor terminals on the terminal strip.

KM2 is dead , no clicky clicky and nothing to the terminal strip.

On the bench , by actuating the contactors by toggling the test lever , they all worked , as far as continuity is concerned .

On the machine , back in the box , under power ( I know , I broke the rules , shame on me ) only some of it works .
 
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Ad the same problem changed this parts work perfectly after
 

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Andre23 said:
You can bye this new for 22.00$
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Thats a thermal overload relay , the same as what I have on this lathe , I have one , in the box , where it will stay , unless it turns out I need to change it .

The goal here , in addition to diagnosing and repairing the issue is to learn something , so me just throwing parts at it is counterproductive but I do have one if I need it .

I have some contactors coming that , I'm either going to use or put on the shelf for spares , a month ago I ordered and received three contactors that I thought were the right parts , but they were not , totally my fault for clicking the buy it now button before confirming that it was the correct part , those are shelf items now. The set that are the correct part have not shipped from the land of China yet due to it being a holiday there.

I have a motor too that I bought from Busy Bee , it's going on the shelf , if and when I confirm that the original motor is still good.
 
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TorontoBuilder said:
DUDE what did I tell you about manually activating contactors? You can't rely on that method for testing circuits.

Ah I haven't looked but is that connection also reversed so that the fuse is after the contactor coil?
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Sorry dad , It wasn't under power , simply sitting on the bench , making a continuity test to see if the contacts were intact .

The fuse is on the control / safety low voltage circuit . there isn't any circuit protection on the high voltage circuits other than the overload relay John just described
 
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I'd like to have on hand , one of the switches that control forward and reverse , just to have one whether I need one now or not .

I'm in the house for the night , I have a nine month old Mastiff pup that needs supervision and attention so the stuffing can remain safely inside the couch .

Tomorrow , I'll try what you suggest John.
 
This switch ............................ , man , it's in a goofy spot , the cams are too .

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I did manage to remove the rod and linkage / lever mechanism that controls the forward / reverse and make a modification that makes it more difficult to accidentally slam it from forward to reverse. There's a notch machined into the support bracket which bolts to the apron , I machined the notch in the part which rotates to make a ramp so the lever is engaged more solidly when positioned , there is a spring to hold it but the notch , combined with a bit of physical wear was making the lever a bit sloppy and not very precise , it's solid now , I like it.

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Switch testing can be looked at the same as contactor testing. They both have contacts which are usually the mode of failure. They can be bypassed with jumpers . If it works, theres your problem.
 
dfloen said:
Switch testing can be looked at the same as contactor testing. They both have contacts which are usually the mode of failure. They can be bypassed with jumpers . If it works, theres your problem.
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I was testing them with my ohmmeter where the wires connect to the terminal strip , I've done it a couple of times and again today when I put the switches back in the spot where they are mounted , just to confirm they were doing what they are supposed to do. There are notes on the hand drawn schematic that shows the low voltage control circuits , showing which terminals make contact in which position .

I should figure out how to get a spare one , it'd be good to have around.
 
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Every time I work on this P.O.S. , my hands smell like that nasty Chineez oily skanky goo that everything they send over here is coated in
 
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dfloen said:
A set of contacts can test fine OHM wise, but be pitted and not capable of passing enough current to energize the load....same way as automotive stuff.
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If only Busy Bee stocked some of these , of course I already know the response I'll get from the local store , same old ...... "we can not stock parts for a machine this old"
 
dfloen said:
I have seen it hundreds of times in my trade.
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What i will do is , tomorrow , I'll make up a set of jumper wires and bypass the switch by removing it from the circuit and jumping the terminals to select a direction .

I sure wish I had a few contactors , those are weeks away . woooooo Chineez new year
 
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