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CT 043 issues ..... Repairs - Completed !!

No beer for me

The electrical box is back on the lathe , the motor is still on the bench.

KA works and like before , it's sticky .

KM1 ( reverse ) clicks and I have 120 volts to all three motor terminals on the terminal strip.

KM2 is dead , no clicky clicky and nothing to the terminal strip.

On the bench , by actuating the contactors by toggling the test lever , they all worked , as far as continuity is concerned .

On the machine , back in the box , under power ( I know , I broke the rules , shame on me ) only some of it works .
 
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Ad the same problem changed this parts work perfectly after
 

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Andre23 said:
You can bye this new for 22.00$
Click to expand...

Thats a thermal overload relay , the same as what I have on this lathe , I have one , in the box , where it will stay , unless it turns out I need to change it .

The goal here , in addition to diagnosing and repairing the issue is to learn something , so me just throwing parts at it is counterproductive but I do have one if I need it .

I have some contactors coming that , I'm either going to use or put on the shelf for spares , a month ago I ordered and received three contactors that I thought were the right parts , but they were not , totally my fault for clicking the buy it now button before confirming that it was the correct part , those are shelf items now. The set that are the correct part have not shipped from the land of China yet due to it being a holiday there.

I have a motor too that I bought from Busy Bee , it's going on the shelf , if and when I confirm that the original motor is still good.
 
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TorontoBuilder said:
DUDE what did I tell you about manually activating contactors? You can't rely on that method for testing circuits.

Ah I haven't looked but is that connection also reversed so that the fuse is after the contactor coil?
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Sorry dad , It wasn't under power , simply sitting on the bench , making a continuity test to see if the contacts were intact .

The fuse is on the control / safety low voltage circuit . there isn't any circuit protection on the high voltage circuits other than the overload relay John just described
 
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I'd like to have on hand , one of the switches that control forward and reverse , just to have one whether I need one now or not .

I'm in the house for the night , I have a nine month old Mastiff pup that needs supervision and attention so the stuffing can remain safely inside the couch .

Tomorrow , I'll try what you suggest John.
 
This switch ............................ , man , it's in a goofy spot , the cams are too .

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I did manage to remove the rod and linkage / lever mechanism that controls the forward / reverse and make a modification that makes it more difficult to accidentally slam it from forward to reverse. There's a notch machined into the support bracket which bolts to the apron , I machined the notch in the part which rotates to make a ramp so the lever is engaged more solidly when positioned , there is a spring to hold it but the notch , combined with a bit of physical wear was making the lever a bit sloppy and not very precise , it's solid now , I like it.

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Switch testing can be looked at the same as contactor testing. They both have contacts which are usually the mode of failure. They can be bypassed with jumpers . If it works, theres your problem.
 
dfloen said:
Switch testing can be looked at the same as contactor testing. They both have contacts which are usually the mode of failure. They can be bypassed with jumpers . If it works, theres your problem.
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I was testing them with my ohmmeter where the wires connect to the terminal strip , I've done it a couple of times and again today when I put the switches back in the spot where they are mounted , just to confirm they were doing what they are supposed to do. There are notes on the hand drawn schematic that shows the low voltage control circuits , showing which terminals make contact in which position .

I should figure out how to get a spare one , it'd be good to have around.
 
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Every time I work on this P.O.S. , my hands smell like that nasty Chineez oily skanky goo that everything they send over here is coated in
 
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dfloen said:
A set of contacts can test fine OHM wise, but be pitted and not capable of passing enough current to energize the load....same way as automotive stuff.
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If only Busy Bee stocked some of these , of course I already know the response I'll get from the local store , same old ...... "we can not stock parts for a machine this old"
 
dfloen said:
I have seen it hundreds of times in my trade.
Click to expand...
What i will do is , tomorrow , I'll make up a set of jumper wires and bypass the switch by removing it from the circuit and jumping the terminals to select a direction .

I sure wish I had a few contactors , those are weeks away . woooooo Chineez new year
 
The machine is plugged into a wall outlet with a breaker, which can act act a switch. So, a bypass test can be performed by moving the wires from the input of the contactor to the output side, like a binding post.

Years ago, i got screwed by a bad relay. I swapped a 5.0 Ford into a 65 Falcon. The main relay failed during the swap. It got knocked around a bit.....but it tested 0 Ohms (good, right?), and passed enough current to light up a test light. It would not pass enough current to power up the ECM though. Made me look like an idiot for several hours while several of my customer's friends were there for the big moment. It wa looking grim when i couldn't get er to bark up, but after thinking a bit, I did a quick bypass test and the engine lit right up and i looked like a hero LOL
 
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