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CT 043 issues ..... Repairs - Completed !!

Gearhead88

Super User
Monday morning way too much sake on the weekend.
Good work on the measuring, things became a lot clearer, it can be tough sometimes when you don't have something to compare it too.
And spending an entire career working on low voltage DC stuff , being nearly oblivious about AC motors . I’ve always had success working on Cranes , Snow Cats and all
Manner of road or off road vehicles
 

Gearhead88

Super User
No beer for me

The electrical box is back on the lathe , the motor is still on the bench.

KA works and like before , it's sticky .

KM1 ( reverse ) clicks and I have 120 volts to all three motor terminals on the terminal strip.

KM2 is dead , no clicky clicky and nothing to the terminal strip.

On the bench , by actuating the contactors by toggling the test lever , they all worked , as far as continuity is concerned .

On the machine , back in the box , under power ( I know , I broke the rules , shame on me ) only some of it works .
 
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Gearhead88

Super User
You can bye this new for 22.00$

Thats a thermal overload relay , the same as what I have on this lathe , I have one , in the box , where it will stay , unless it turns out I need to change it .

The goal here , in addition to diagnosing and repairing the issue is to learn something , so me just throwing parts at it is counterproductive but I do have one if I need it .

I have some contactors coming that , I'm either going to use or put on the shelf for spares , a month ago I ordered and received three contactors that I thought were the right parts , but they were not , totally my fault for clicking the buy it now button before confirming that it was the correct part , those are shelf items now. The set that are the correct part have not shipped from the land of China yet due to it being a holiday there.

I have a motor too that I bought from Busy Bee , it's going on the shelf , if and when I confirm that the original motor is still good.
 
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Gearhead88

Super User
DUDE what did I tell you about manually activating contactors? You can't rely on that method for testing circuits.

Ah I haven't looked but is that connection also reversed so that the fuse is after the contactor coil?
Sorry dad , It wasn't under power , simply sitting on the bench , making a continuity test to see if the contacts were intact .

The fuse is on the control / safety low voltage circuit . there isn't any circuit protection on the high voltage circuits other than the overload relay John just described
 
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Gearhead88

Super User
I'd like to have on hand , one of the switches that control forward and reverse , just to have one whether I need one now or not .

I'm in the house for the night , I have a nine month old Mastiff pup that needs supervision and attention so the stuffing can remain safely inside the couch .

Tomorrow , I'll try what you suggest John.
 

Gearhead88

Super User
This switch ............................ , man , it's in a goofy spot , the cams are too .

IMG_1515.JPG

IMG_1516.JPG

I did manage to remove the rod and linkage / lever mechanism that controls the forward / reverse and make a modification that makes it more difficult to accidentally slam it from forward to reverse. There's a notch machined into the support bracket which bolts to the apron , I machined the notch in the part which rotates to make a ramp so the lever is engaged more solidly when positioned , there is a spring to hold it but the notch , combined with a bit of physical wear was making the lever a bit sloppy and not very precise , it's solid now , I like it.

IMG_1524.JPG
 
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Darren

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Switch testing can be looked at the same as contactor testing. They both have contacts which are usually the mode of failure. They can be bypassed with jumpers . If it works, theres your problem.
 

Gearhead88

Super User
Switch testing can be looked at the same as contactor testing. They both have contacts which are usually the mode of failure. They can be bypassed with jumpers . If it works, theres your problem.
I was testing them with my ohmmeter where the wires connect to the terminal strip , I've done it a couple of times and again today when I put the switches back in the spot where they are mounted , just to confirm they were doing what they are supposed to do. There are notes on the hand drawn schematic that shows the low voltage control circuits , showing which terminals make contact in which position .

I should figure out how to get a spare one , it'd be good to have around.
 
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Gearhead88

Super User
Every time I work on this P.O.S. , my hands smell like that nasty Chineez oily skanky goo that everything they send over here is coated in
 
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Gearhead88

Super User
A set of contacts can test fine OHM wise, but be pitted and not capable of passing enough current to energize the load....same way as automotive stuff.
If only Busy Bee stocked some of these , of course I already know the response I'll get from the local store , same old ...... "we can not stock parts for a machine this old"
 

Gearhead88

Super User
I have seen it hundreds of times in my trade.
What i will do is , tomorrow , I'll make up a set of jumper wires and bypass the switch by removing it from the circuit and jumping the terminals to select a direction .

I sure wish I had a few contactors , those are weeks away . woooooo Chineez new year
 
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