BaitMaster’s (Work) Bench

[Tom O]

While designing it don’t forget to lift it up on the backstroke. Mine uses a cam to transfer hydraulic fluid to a small ram to lift.

 

[Tecnico]

While designing it don’t forget to lift it up on the backstroke. Mine uses a cam to transfer hydraulic fluid to a small ram to lift.

Thanks, good info to keep in mind.

D.

 

[BaitMaster]

Tired of my 4 jaw that came with this lathe and the lack of accuracy and usability, I decided to try an accusize 8” 4 jaw.

Had to machine the faceplate, got it within a thou.

Selling the one that came with my lathe if anyone wants it…. D1-3 backing…..

 

[Susquatch]

Tired of my 4 jaw that came with this lathe and the lack of accuracy and usability, I decided to try an accusize 8” 4 jaw.

I'm struggling with this one. I'm not sure I understand what you are complaining about. The runout on a 4-jaw chuck body is pretty meaningless unless it translates into jaws that are canted or off-plane. Can you elaborate on the problem and the way it manifests itself when you mount parts in the chuck?

 

[BaitMaster]

@Susquatch the chuck is mounted on a threaded adaptor. It is off enough that if I try to get the lathe going anywhere fast enough for smaller work pieces then it is off balance enough it vibrates the lathe.

The new chuck I can get up to 2500 rpm…..

I’m not super into fixing that old threaded chuck. It also sticks out a great distance off of the spindle due to the adaptor fiasco, giving less rigidity.

It has 1/4” square screws as well which means a lot less torque.

All in all, it just has been a thorn in my side since I bought the lathe, and I dreaded having to use it.

The new chuck after testing today is MILES better in every conceivable way other then the old one has a cool factor, and is made in the states.

I’m sure someone with an old threaded spindle will love that old chuck.

I’m stoked about my new one.

 

[PeterT]

I think 2500 is getting up there for an 8" chuck which is dialed in quite concentrically (as opposed to holding anything off center with inherent imbalance). Even so I'm not actually sure if that recommendation pertains to the chuck in isolation or makes any safety presumptions the typical lathe spindle / bearings supporting it. Offshore chucks can really vary in quality, sometimes even across the same brand. There are posts here on the forum about some with casting deviations causing imbalance to the extend what was stamped on the face was wishful thinking. So just go easy or better yet try & set it up on a rudimentary balancer. Bad vibration is not kind to your $$ bearings. I you are chucking big things you wont be spinning that high anyways. If you bought it for dialing in accuracy on shafts, probably better to have a smaller chunck, which is less mass (but another chuck of moola). I bought a 5" 4J primarily for my RT but actually I like using it on my lathe, the big boy only comes out when I have to. Anyways, those are my thoughts.

Bison says 1800

Bison 8

store.cecs.us

Gator says 1800

4-Jaw Independent, 8" Cast-Iron Body, Direct Mount D1-5, Hard Solid Ja

Product Information Chuck Type Independent Chuck Mount D1-5 Spindle Type D1-5 Chuck Dia (in) 8 Thru-Hole (in) 2.205 Gripping Range Min-Max (in) .394 - 7.87 Chuck T.I.R (in) 0.0016 Max RPM 1800 Material Cast Iron Jaws 4 Jaw Type Hard Solid Reversible Weight Gross (lbs) 35.27 Includes 1 Set of...

gatorlathechucks.com

Shars has an offshore that says 2100

8" 4 Jaw Independent Lathe Chuck

www.shars.com

 

[BaitMaster]

I think 2500 is getting up there for an 8" chuck which is dialed in quite concentrically (as opposed to holding anything off center with inherent imbalance). Even so I'm not actually sure if that recommendation pertains to the chuck in isolation or makes any safety presumptions the typical lathe spindle / bearings supporting it. Offshore chucks can really vary in quality, sometimes even across the same brand. There are posts here on the forum about some with casting deviations causing imbalance to the extend what was stamped on the face was wishful thinking. Sojust go easy or better yet try & set it up on a rudimentary balancer. Bad vibration is not kind to your $$ bearings. I you are chucking big things you wont be spinning that high anyways. If you bought it for dialing in accuracy on shafts, probably better to have a smaller chuck, which is less mass (but another chuck of moola). I bought a 5" 4J primarily for my RT but actually I like using it on my lathe, the big boy only comes out when I have to. Anyways, those are my thoughts.

Bison says 1800

Bison 8

store.cecs.us

Gator says 1800

4-Jaw Independent, 8" Cast-Iron Body, Direct Mount D1-5, Hard Solid Ja

Product Information Chuck Type Independent Chuck Mount D1-5 Spindle Type D1-5 Chuck Dia (in) 8 Thru-Hole (in) 2.205 Gripping Range Min-Max (in) .394 - 7.87 Chuck T.I.R (in) 0.0016 Max RPM 1800 Material Cast Iron Jaws 4 Jaw Type Hard Solid Reversible Weight Gross (lbs) 35.27 Includes 1 Set of...

gatorlathechucks.com

Shars has an offshore that says 2100

8" 4 Jaw Independent Lathe Chuck

www.shars.com

I guess the Accusize Website only claims 2000. So good to know.

I had it up at 1500 ish rpm just to test with a dialed in piece.

Ya, I wanted a general purpose 4-jaw and I had the other 4 jaw, I liked the size of it and it seemed good to have something for bigger stuff as my 6" 3-jaw is nice but has been too small for some stuff.

The new chuck does not vibrate. Very smooth. You can tell it is alot of mass however.

There always is another thing to buy..... I wish money was as abundant as my ambitions.

I will likely make do with this 8" 4-jaw and my 6" 3-jaw for a good while now.

But a smaller 4 jaw is a nice idea.....

 

[Susquatch]

I’m sure someone with an old threaded spindle will love that old chuck.

I see. So you are talking about vibration not part runout.

Somehow I also got confused when you said your old one was d1-3. Or is that the adapter you mentioned?

 

[BaitMaster]

I see. So you are talking about vibration not part runout.

Somehow I also got confused when you said your old one was d1-3. Or is that the adapter you mentioned?

Maybe i'm not the best with the terms.

It has a threaded adaptor going to a d1-3 face plate thats been modified to accept the threaded adaptor, then the chuck is threaded to the threaded adaptor. The whole thing is 8" ish long.

Yes, vibration.

 

[BaitMaster]

Well I saw PA had a dual use horizontal/vertical metal bandsaw, and I got sick of waiting for a used one so I just jumped on it. New one in the stable fellas!

I’ve tested it and it works good… I’ve been hacksawing a lot lately and got right sick of it.

 

[6.5 Fan]

What is the plan with the military stock sitting on the mill?

 

[Susquatch]

I’ve tested it and it works good… I’ve been hacksawing a lot lately and got right sick of it.

You are in good company.

@thestelster and I both have the King version of that (both bought used). They look very similar. 64.5" blade?

We both got tired of using a manual hacksaw too.

Gotta be more careful about photo backgrounds. The guys on here have eagle eyes and sometimes I think they sort through the background before they even look at the photo subject! I personally would NEVER DO THAT......

 

[BaitMaster]

Well @6.5 Fan since you eagle eyed that stock…. I acquired a discounted m98 in 06 for the purpose of a bear guiding beater….. it’s seen service time undoubtedly.

The plan with the wood on the mill is to flatten a spot on the fore end of the stock, and drill holes for a piece of picatinny rail, to allow the mounting of a flashlight.

It feels a lot better creeping out of a northern swamp at night when you can see where you are going….

@Susquatch yes the blades are 64.5. It’s a 4x6 size, convertible to vertical. It was 600 brand new, so around these parts, used ones occasionally would come up for 450$…. Then sell immediately.

I’m fine with the new premium on that one.

 

[historicalarms]

Your gonna like that saw, Ive had mine for 25 years and cut yards of steel with it ( the guy that gave it to me out of an industrial shop claimed it was wore out then and they were buying a new one). So I dont know how old it actually is but I have only changed blades on mine in all that cutting.
One thing you will notice when buying new blades, there is no guarantee how straight a new blade will cut. One blade will cut perfectly straight and the next will cut varying degrees of angles...If I get a good one I keep it for cuts that need to be as square as I can make them and use a crooked-cutter when just length cutting something.

 

[BaitMaster]

Your gonna like that saw, Ive had mine for 25 years and cut yards of steel with it ( the guy that gave it to me out of an industrial shop claimed it was wore out then and they were buying a new one). So I dont know how old it actually is but I have only changed blades on mine in all that cutting.
One thing you will notice when buying new blades, there is no guarantee how straight a new blade will cut. One blade will cut perfectly straight and the next will cut varying degrees of angles...If I get a good one I keep it for cuts that need to be as square as I can make them and use a crooked-cutter when just length cutting something.

That’s a great topic….. any sources/brands you would recommend? All I have is the one blade that came with the saw…. I’m not thinking that one will be the best of quality so sourcing replacements is high on the priority list….

 

[historicalarms]

I cant say that I havwe found a "better than most" in any of the brand box marketed offerings over the "bottom of the price range" offerings from Princess, both have been good & both have been bad slope cutters so I stick with the lowest price point i can find and be happy with what I get. I usually buy a hand full at a time, sometimes i get mostly good ones sometimes slopes outnumber the good.
One thing I will pass on is that the multi-steel quality blades will cut more steel than a plain "hard back". Both will cut many inches of mild steel from new to dull but multi will definitely last longer when cutting a better alloy of steel in its annealed state...if hardened -buy lots of blades.

 

[Susquatch]

That’s a great topic….. any sources/brands you would recommend? All I have is the one blade that came with the saw…. I’m not thinking that one will be the best of quality so sourcing replacements is high on the priority list….

I have had quite a variety of blades on mine probably mostly owing to some stupid mistakes. I started of course with cheap blades. That was a dumb move. Today I only buy Starrett Intense blades. They are not cheap and sometimes hard to find, but they always cut straight. They will also last just fine as long as you don't stick a small piece of steel into a big tooth blade for aluminium. "it's only a half inch cut - I don't need to change blades for that....... Ya right, change the blade you lazy old man.". That is a direct quote from the very idiot who did it. I can still hear myself giving myself shit for that...... Cost me $60 for that educational experience.

If you are good to them and use them as designed, the Starrett Intensity blades should last a very long time.

 

[Jswain]

I just swapped blades on mine from one I got from kms tools, 97% sure it is a Lennox 10/14tpi(but I bought it awhile ago and there's no packaging) Cuts the best that I've had yet

Lenox 64.5" x 1/2" 10/14 TPI Bi-Metal Band Saw Blade

With M-42 high speed steel tooth tips and flexible alloy steel backing, Lenox Diemaster 2 metal-cutting band saw blades deliver cutting performance and durability—lasting up to 10 times longer than carbon blades. Diemaster 2 blades are ideal for most gene

www.kmstools.com

 

[BaitMaster]

Here is a hydraulic knockout kit Die and Punch that someone ordered wrong, in the 1 1/8” stud size, where all of our common studs are 3/4”.

I made adaptors, the bushing is press fit, and the punch has a internal/external thread and is held in with an abundance of Red Loctite.

I have made many other small projects in between, and I am becoming (slightly) more competent on my machines, especially the lathe.

These pieces I feel like are comparable work to what I would have received if I paid a machine shop to do the same, which I’m fairly proud of.

 

[BaitMaster]

Here is an outboard spider I made.

Made out of some alloy steel rod, some fine thread grade 8 hex head bolts, 5/16 for the spider and 1/4 for the retaining bolt.

The brass tips are pressed into the bolts. I drilled a 3/16 hole in the tip of the bolts using the lathe, brass tips made to size and pressed in with the shop press.

Looking forward to working on some well aligned long cylindrical objects with this thing.