While designing it don’t forget to lift it up on the backstroke. Mine uses a cam to transfer hydraulic fluid to a small ram to lift.
Tired of my 4 jaw that came with this lathe and the lack of accuracy and usability, I decided to try an accusize 8” 4 jaw.
I guess the Accusize Website only claims 2000. So good to know.I think 2500 is getting up there for an 8" chuck which is dialed in quite concentrically (as opposed to holding anything off center with inherent imbalance). Even so I'm not actually sure if that recommendation pertains to the chuck in isolation or makes any safety presumptions the typical lathe spindle / bearings supporting it. Offshore chucks can really vary in quality, sometimes even across the same brand. There are posts here on the forum about some with casting deviations causing imbalance to the extend what was stamped on the face was wishful thinking. Sojust go easy or better yet try & set it up on a rudimentary balancer. Bad vibration is not kind to your $$ bearings. I you are chucking big things you wont be spinning that high anyways. If you bought it for dialing in accuracy on shafts, probably better to have a smaller chuck, which is less mass (but another chuck of moola). I bought a 5" 4J primarily for my RT but actually I like using it on my lathe, the big boy only comes out when I have to. Anyways, those are my thoughts.
Bison says 1800
Bison 8
store.cecs.us
Gator says 1800
4-Jaw Independent, 8" Cast-Iron Body, Direct Mount D1-5, Hard Solid Ja
Product Information Chuck Type Independent Chuck Mount D1-5 Spindle Type D1-5 Chuck Dia (in) 8 Thru-Hole (in) 2.205 Gripping Range Min-Max (in) .394 - 7.87 Chuck T.I.R (in) 0.0016 Max RPM 1800 Material Cast Iron Jaws 4 Jaw Type Hard Solid Reversible Weight Gross (lbs) 35.27 Includes 1 Set of...gatorlathechucks.com
Shars has an offshore that says 2100
8" 4 Jaw Independent Lathe Chuck
www.shars.com
I’m sure someone with an old threaded spindle will love that old chuck.
Maybe i'm not the best with the terms.I see. So you are talking about vibration not part runout.
Somehow I also got confused when you said your old one was d1-3. Or is that the adapter you mentioned?
I’ve tested it and it works good… I’ve been hacksawing a lot lately and got right sick of it.
That’s a great topic….. any sources/brands you would recommend? All I have is the one blade that came with the saw…. I’m not thinking that one will be the best of quality so sourcing replacements is high on the priority list….Your gonna like that saw, Ive had mine for 25 years and cut yards of steel with it ( the guy that gave it to me out of an industrial shop claimed it was wore out then and they were buying a new one). So I dont know how old it actually is but I have only changed blades on mine in all that cutting.
One thing you will notice when buying new blades, there is no guarantee how straight a new blade will cut. One blade will cut perfectly straight and the next will cut varying degrees of angles...If I get a good one I keep it for cuts that need to be as square as I can make them and use a crooked-cutter when just length cutting something.
That’s a great topic….. any sources/brands you would recommend? All I have is the one blade that came with the saw…. I’m not thinking that one will be the best of quality so sourcing replacements is high on the priority list….