What's Paul up to?

[jcdammeyer]

That's pretty impressive. It's prolly way more info than I'll ever use but who knows.....

I have a chart on the wall behind my lathe with graphs for some stuff like that. I hardly ever use it either.

Is that a Windows or a Mac program? Is there an android version?

Mine came with Alibre way back.

Complete CAD/CAM Software for CNC Machining | BobCAD-CAM

Design, program, and simulate for CNC mills, lathes, routers, mill-turn, and wire EDM - all in one integrated system. Trusted by 150,000+ users since 1985.

www.machinist-toolbox.com

I think it costs money now but I don't know how much.

 

[YotaBota]

Here's a program on LMS for milling/drilling/turning speeds, it's been my goto since I came across it a couple of years ago.

Speeds & Feeds

The premier source of tooling, parts, and accessories for bench top machinists.

littlemachineshop.com

 

[whydontu]

4Machining on iOS

 

[Susquatch]

Mine came with Alibre way back.

Complete CAD/CAM Software for CNC Machining | BobCAD-CAM

Design, program, and simulate for CNC mills, lathes, routers, mill-turn, and wire EDM - all in one integrated system. Trusted by 150,000+ users since 1985.

www.machinist-toolbox.com

I think it costs money now but I don't know how much.

I can't find it alone. Apparently it comes with other software you buy. 🙁

 

[Susquatch]

Here's a program on LMS for milling/drilling/turning speeds, it's been my goto since I came across it a couple of years ago.

Speeds & Feeds

The premier source of tooling, parts, and accessories for bench top machinists.

littlemachineshop.com

Thanks! I'll check it out.

 

[PaulL]

Yesterday was a much better evening in the shop. I got the holder holder remade:

Ditched the aluminium, found a short piece of 4140 that used to be a guillotine tool in my forge but hasn't seen use since I re-did that tooling for the power hammer.
Much easier to set up and feels properly solid.

 

[jcdammeyer]

I can't find it alone. Apparently it comes with other software you buy. 🙁

It runs alone but does appear to have been linked to Alibre.

View attachment 29377

 

[Susquatch]

It runs alone but does appear to have been linked to Alibre.

View attachment 29377

Link is dead John. 🙁

 

[PaulL]

Ok, It appears that I'm now sharpening with that thing:

Drills seem to work well enough. I'm wondering if there's a finer grain of wheel I should be working with.
Next was the ends of an end mill, which worked but has some issues:

For one thing, the stone now looks *very* coarse for the work. The second is that this end mill has these little extra flutes at the outside, which in a single-pass grid wind up a bit lower than the adjacent part of the face nearer the center. This leaves tracks:

I'm not sure what the solution is. Use a much steeper aproach angle so the adjacent face is lower? Pre-grind some back clearance?
The bit works better than before I attacked it, so that's a positive - I can certainly use it for hogging material again. But I'd like to do a better job.

Paul

 

[jcdammeyer]

Ok, It appears that I'm now sharpening with that thing:

Drills seem to work well enough. I'm wondering if there's a finer grain of wheel I should be working with.
Next was the ends of an end mill, which worked but has some issues:
View attachment 29531
For one thing, the stone now looks *very* coarse for the work. The second is that this end mill has these little extra flutes at the outside, which in a single-pass grid wind up a bit lower than the adjacent part of the face nearer the center. This leaves tracks:

I'm not sure what the solution is. Use a much steeper aproach angle so the adjacent face is lower? Pre-grind some back clearance?
The bit works better than before I attacked it, so that's a positive - I can certainly use it for hogging material again. But I'd like to do a better job.

Paul

I think you need a finer stone. I'd also take a look at a brand new mill with the same tooth profile and see if they don't tilt the cutter for a different angle pass with the stone.

 

[DPittman]

Ok, It appears that I'm now sharpening with that thing:

Drills seem to work well enough. I'm wondering if there's a finer grain of wheel I should be working with.
Next was the ends of an end mill, which worked but has some issues:
View attachment 29531
For one thing, the stone now looks *very* coarse for the work. The second is that this end mill has these little extra flutes at the outside, which in a single-pass grid wind up a bit lower than the adjacent part of the face nearer the center. This leaves tracks:

I'm not sure what the solution is. Use a much steeper aproach angle so the adjacent face is lower? Pre-grind some back clearance?
The bit works better than before I attacked it, so that's a positive - I can certainly use it for hogging material again. But I'd like to do a better job.

Paul

You might try buffing the burr off the sharpened edge of the endmill with a cloth wheel or maybe even a wire wheel?

 

[PaulL]

Anyone have any experience with these: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...and-wheel-dressers/76621-cbn-grinding-wheels?
I'm honestly not too sure what to try for a better grinding wheel.

 

[Joni (Dabbler)]

@PaulL CBN wheels are better at some stuff, and not as good on other stuff. For instance, I understand that you cannot grind soft steels on them. They are good for grinding carbide and HSS.

If you are grinding hard stuff a lot, I'd choose silicon carbide (green wheels).

For grinding HSS drills and end mills I'd choose a 100 grit AO wheel with open structure, vitreous bonded (Present terminology may differ)

 

[PaulL]

Ok, the wheel on there is 120 grit AO. So I'm almost certainly screwing up at the dressing stage. I wonder if my dresser is coarser than my wheel, making gouges?
More experiments tomorrow.

 

[YYCHM]

Ok, the wheel on there is 120 grit AO. So I'm almost certainly screwing up at the dressing stage. I wonder if my dresser is coarser than my wheel, making gouges?
More experiments tomorrow.

I think you have a rigidity issue between your jig and the grinder. I added the simple HH endmill sharpener jig to my grinder and haven't seen that kind of surface finish with the standard wheel that came with my PA grinder.

Sharpening End Mills 1

Design for, and method of making and using, an attachement for the Off Hand grinder for sharpening the end cutting edges of an end mill.

homews.co.uk

 

[PaulL]

I think you have a rigidity issue between your jig and the grinder. I added the simple HH endmill sharpener jig to my grinder and haven't see that kind of surface finish with the standard wheel that came with my PA grinder.

Sharpening End Mills 1

Design for, and method of making and using, an attachement for the Off Hand grinder for sharpening the end cutting edges of an end mill.

homews.co.uk

Ok, tomorrow's plan is increasing the rigidity of the grinder itself, which is just on a rubber pad. I'll tap the steel bench it's sitting on and report back.

 

[Joni (Dabbler)]

Do you have a standard rotary star dresser? I'm not a fan of those flat plates witha few CBN crystals bonded to it. Grind some soft steel until you get a good finish. the soft steel will take out the high spots, with some effort.

 

[PaulL]

Do you have a standard rotary star dresser? I'm not a fan of those flat plates witha few CBN crystals bonded to it.

Yeah, that flat thing is exactly what I have. And I see the star type are cheaper than my time typing this. I'll try one.

 

[Susquatch]

Do you have a standard rotary star dresser? I'm not a fan of those flat plates witha few CBN crystals bonded to it. Grind some soft steel until you get a good finish. the soft steel will take out the high spots, with some effort.

Am I missing something here? I use a diamond embedded in the tip of a steel bar. I put a war hold on it and run it back and forth guided by a flat edge.

 

[kevin.decelles]

I put a war hold on it

best thing I've read today. Thank-you for the smile.