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Sticky What Machines Do You have?

Here are pictures of the blocks so the big block is attached to the taper attachment and get bolted to the back of the block on the lead screw. The lead screw is held to the block by the double retaining nut and washer. The other side of the lead screw block has the bearing and shoulder that the block gets tighten to by the retaining nuts. Hopefully this helps you out a little more on your lathe.
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The taper attachment block slides on the rail on the taper attachment which pushes the cross slide in and out it doesn't actually turn the lead screw it's pushing your cross slide in and out my cross slide handle doesn't turn when the cross slide is moving in and out on the taper attachment. So you still have full function of your cross slide for depths of cut on a taper. It's actually a very simple system that it's just forcing the cross slide to move at a determined angle that you want and that why you have to lock it to the bed of the lathe to use the taper attachment.
Lol yes I haven't looked at a taper attachment this much in a long time as well great re fresher on how it works. I know for me personally I haven't used one in probably 10 years just never ran into a job I needed it. It's one of those things if you haven't used it regularly you have to think back at how it works. It's great having thus forum to ask for help.


Ultra Member
Premium Member
I found this Grizzly link http://cdn2.grizzly.com/manuals/t10556_m.pdf
and it does a good job of showing how to install their taper attachment retro-fit kit on a lathe very similar to mine. Now I think I understand why this wasn't making sense to me. Basically there is a conventional, non-taper lead screw (what I have) and there is a different taper attachment lead screw, a form of telescoping 2-component lead screw. When you buy their kit, you need to pull the old one. The replacement taper lead screw shows a shorter stub section connected to the dial on one end. The other end fits into the main threaded lead screw body, kind of like a socket sleeve connection but with a square keyway to engage them. This allows the taper slider block to pull the [table + lead screw nut + long segment lead screw] as an assembly via the telescoping socket feature. The keyway feature allows you to increment the depth of cut using the dial just like normal because the key locks in rotation motion. Its not clear if this is on Ed's manual which is what confused me. I'm still not sure there, but if its anything like mine, its a not the most comprehensive or complete documentation. On other lathes I've seen this lead screw as an external longitudinal spline & matching socket which is what I was looking for. But the keyway serves the same purpose. Sorry for the long detour, this has been bugging me! (Admin if you want to chop out post #35 onward under a title like 'lathe taper attachment', I'll leave that to you).

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Hi Peter

Thanks for the replay that make total sense now with a different lead screw that's longer for adding the taper attachment. As I said before my lathe came with the taper attachment already installed and didn't have any parts an extra lead screw thst came with it. Looks like if your lathe doesn't have a long enough lead screw that would bolt up to a taper attachment you would need to buy the kit for the lead screw. Nice job on finding that print out of the taper attachment.
Hello everyone, I also have the B2227L and I love the solid bed on it, seems to keep it very rigid in use. I bought this machine because of the full cast base and the gearhead. I too find the change gears a royal pain to set up but once set it's fine to use.

Current mods to this machine are: omni style tool post, a 3 sided turret for boring, and a lever operated cam locking tailstock (an absolute must for drilling and tooling changes)

Planned mods: milling tooling plate on the cross slide, vertical milling vise, MT4 19mm collet for the spindle for use with stub arbor quick change tooling (also planned), a lever operated tailstock barrel for sensitive drilling ops with adjustable screw stops, and also what I would call an auxiliary rear mounted feed screw that I can have the fine feeds always set up whilst being able to cut threads (as there's no quick change threading box)
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Premium Member
Let's see that "auxiliary rear mounted feed screw" any progress yet? - a few pictures and description? I'm fooling around with adapting a power window motor to the right end of my power feed bar so I can run it slower than typical when setup for threading. It will be similar to the power feed I built out of another power window motor for my mill. There's a thread on here under projects if anyone is interested. Your solution sounds like another approach for the same problem.
Hey Janger, I was thinking that "rear feed screw" was a bit of a misnomer it would be better called a rear mounted auxiliary power shaft as it would not be a screw at all. I was planning on simply using it as a jackshaft so I could power the factory feed screw from the right hand side with a dog clutch. I was thinking about using some small timing belts and pulleys to accomplish the gearing to keep it simple. Also no progress as of yet, I ordered an angle plate from KBC for my cross slide milling attachment and will be working on that next along with a tangential tool holder as I find bit grinding to be like a fly in the ointment as well.

The power window motor sounds cool too, how do you find the speed stability ie how constant do they run at a particular speed?


Premium Member
here is the thread on this. And a couple videos too.


Going by the sound of the motor the speed seems stable for a given load, but there is no feedback so when the load increases it slows down. It saves me turning the handles but it does not have enough power compared to a proper power feed attachment - or so I imagine. It works though! And it was inexpensive.
Hey, Bill here from Saskatoon. Here are my drugs, yes I'm an addict..

- Atlas 12x36 cabinet mount
- CX 707 lathe (not delivered yet)
- Craftec 1.5 hp mill/drill
- Linde mig
- Miller arc
- Smith oxy acetylene
- Cincinnati horizontal mill (cira 1920ish)
- Powerfist drill press floor model
- Powerfist sandblast cabinet
- Powerfist pipe bender
- Usual misc. (band saw, grinders, vises etc)
I have a Challenger MJ358 lathe. It has a seven inch swing and twelve inches between centers. It's a bit small but I can get most cuts within .001 inches. I also have a Rong-fu 25 drill/mill. The only mod I've done to it is mounting a dial caliper to the down feed and that fixed the wandering Z axis.


Super User
I pulled this saw out of storage after 5 years of no use. It looks to be a light duty saw but has a large capacity I like the way the blade looks easy to change.
[Josh Edit: Image rotation]

blade is 115" long

Something tells me my powered hacksaw is going to be a busy tool in the weeks the come.
@Jwest7788 want to race? This is 3/4hp and plugs into 115v. Could be a fun comparison of old saws. 20170314_142515.jpg



Well-Known Member
Premium Member
I pulled this saw out of storage after 5 years of no use. It looks to be a light duty saw but has a large capacity I like the way the blade looks easy to change.
View attachment 1458

blade is 115" long

@Jwest7788 want to race? This is 3/4hp and plugs into 115v. Could be a fun comparison of old saws. View attachment 1454
I am absolutely in for a race. I feel like a bandsaw would be faster, but keen to try either way!

We can bring it over to my place for that 4140 haul we're working on. Saves time to have two or three saws cutting. lol



Super User
New year and some new machines in my shop. I also still have my Syil EX250 CNC lathe it is still my favorite I put a larger motor in is so now it really cuts like it should. The milltronics cnc has a 10hp spindle so it is very capable, but it is old, very old.



Premium Member
New year and some new machines in my shop. I also still have my Syil EX250 CNC lathe it is still my favorite I put a larger motor in is so now it really cuts like it should. The milltronics cnc has a 10hp spindle so it is very capable, but it is old, very old.
Alex always has the coolest...
Metal working machines in order of purchase:
Miller 250x MIG. It's been called the second worst welder Miller ever mad. The 250 was the worst. The start is very rough, .023 can be a challenge. By the 252, they had the bugs worked out. It's paid for itself a few times over. And that is without paying jobs.
Jet 17" drill press. The base , though cast iron, flexes. I've had dance partners that didn't move as much. The spindle is out .010"
8" Baldor grinder
Air Liquide O/A torch
Delta Toolmaker 6x12 surface grinder, I bought it at our mill's shut down auction.
7" Wasota grinder, also an auction pick up
BusyBee DF1224g lathe. Electrics were shot when I got it. But I've been able to hit with in .0005 of my target. I have to credit the lathe, it's certainly not the operator.
Advance RF-45 mill/drill. Well worn, it's loose enough to complain. I call it the Drama Queen.
BusyBee 4x6 horizontal bandsaw, the pivot is out of square.
Shop built 6" shaper, more of a completion .
Magnum (Hugong) Wave 200 AC/DC TIG/stick welder. Programmable, I have to study before I use it.
Peerless Machine and Tool of Guelph Ont. 6x6 power hacksaw . It cuts square.

Most are ongoing projects.