Starrett Stuff

StevSmar

(Steven)
Premium Member
I got it at the Barrie automotive fleamarket about 10 years ago for $20-30 :D.
Wow, what a bargain!!!

At work, we have a 40”(?) stainless steel straight edge that I think would be fantastic for using when woodworking. I looked for one similar and decided that was $400 I didn’t really need to spend…
 

Dan Dubeau

Ultra Member
It's not in perfect 100% shape. Probably 75-80%. I can't remember, maybe I did at the time, but I don't think I put it on a plate and checked it's accuracy. It did have a couple dings and stuff that I stoned out.

Purchased at a price and condition that will allow me to use it guilt free for things I wouldn't use a brand new one bought at full retail for :D.

I used to use it at work for layout and blocking up jobs manually, but since I quit doing that type of stuff, I brought it home, and more or less forgot about it.
 

thestelster

Ultra Member
Premium Member
I am thestelster and I have an addiction.

A few more Starrett goodies.
-another No.568 v-block. This is almost mint and was a great deal! I couldn't pass it up. (This makes 3!) (But no clamps yet.)

-No.284 acme screw thread gauge

-No.256 disc micrometer. The reason I honestly needed this is to measure the pitch diameter of the lathe cross-feed screw that I will be making soon. I tried to measure my current feed-screw using the 3-wire method, but the spacing between the wires was wider than the faces of my regular micrometer, so I couldn't get an accurate reading. And, yes, I could have used the Starrett No.456 gear tooth vernier, but I don't have one.....yet!

I have another goodie coming in the next couple weeks.
 

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mmcmdl

Machinist/Toolmaker ( retired )
I listed a few things down here today @thestelster . These I have to move quick . I have all my Starrett stuff as well that is NEW IN BOX that will be leaving after I clean this other stuff out . I'm sure I could at least double your holdings number . ;) No hurry on my stuff as I can bring it up . I'll make a list up and pm you and we'll share a few Labbatts Blues ! My thread down here is My Buddy's stuff if you didn't see it .
 
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Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I tried to measure my current feed-screw using the 3-wire method, but the spacing between the wires was wider than the faces of my regular micrometer, so I couldn't get an accurate reading. And, yes, I could have used the Starrett No.456 gear tooth vernier, but I don't have one.....yet!

Can't you just mark off a given length and count teeth?
 

thestelster

Ultra Member
Premium Member
I listed a few things down here today @thestelster . These I have to move quick . I have all my Starrett stuff as well that is NEW IN BOX that will be leaving after I clean this other stuff out . I'm sure I could at least double your holdings number . ;) No hurry on my stuff as I can bring it up . I'll make a list up and pm you and we'll share a few Labbatts Blues ! My thread down here is My Buddy's stuff if you didn't see it .
Where is the thread? I must have missed it.
 

thestelster

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Use a gauge block to ”saddle” the two wires and subtract that from your mic reading...
I never thought of that. But would be pretty awkward for me to balance 3 wires, a gauge block, a micrometer, while trying to read the dimension, all while swearing and cursingo_O
 

RobinHood

Ultra Member
Premium Member
But would be pretty awkward for me to balance 3 wires, a gauge block, a micrometer, while trying to read the dimension

One would think so… but it is actually easier.

Use the gauge block to hold the two wires to the bottom of the thread, place third wire on top (it usually balances by itself), use other hand to adjust mic. The gauge block offers a large surface for the fixed anvil of the mic. Once the gauge block and the top wire are “pinched” by the mic, you can use both hands to fine adjust the mic to get a precise reading.

I use the gauge block method for all 3-wire work.
 

thestelster

Ultra Member
Premium Member
One would think so… but it is actually easier.

Use the gauge block to hold the two wires to the bottom of the thread, place third wire on top (it usually balances by itself), use other hand to adjust mic. The gauge block offers a large surface for the fixed anvil of the mic. Once the gauge block and the top wire are “pinched” by the mic, you can use both hands to fine adjust the mic to get a precise reading.

I use the gauge block method for all 3-wire work.
Ok, I'll have to try that. Thank you for that tip.
 
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