Tips/Techniques Show your shop related 3DP

[Susquatch]

One cannot comment on the tool storage practices of others. Seems like it would be bad form

Nah, I love it when the guys make fun of my methods. I'm proud of my organized chaos.

I confess there are more than a few really tempting storage solutions being bounced around though.

I'm quite blown away by that metallic MT3 storage rack.

 

[Tobho Mott]

I mostly only use mine to print foundry patterns, but I did print out this fillet iron organizer when I got sick of them somehow suddenly migrating to various random parts of the house every time I'm just about to need them... Total CAD newbie here, so even with printed patterns the fillet irons do still come in handy often enough.



Jeff

 

[pdentrem]

I was gifted a box of Allen keys without holders, so let’s print a couple! They start at .035” and the largest is 17 mm.
Pierre

 

[fixerup]

Lathe cutter height tool which can be mounted in the headstock or the tailstock. Skateboard bearing and a bubble level tube.

If I put a .004'' shim on top of the cutter the bubble will be able to show the difference. The front adjusting screw make it easy to adjust and lock it in on center.
Printed 5 years ago, the design group at work got a 3D printer and it was sitting idle. Found the file on the web and asked if they could print me a couple.

 

[Susquatch]

Lathe cutter height tool which can be mounted in the headstock or the tailstock.

That is sooooo coooool! I'm definitely impressed!

Would a precision level bubble improve that?

 

[fixerup]

That is sooooo coooool! I'm definitely impressed!

Would a precision level bubble improve that?

For a lantern tool post setup .004" is plenty good enough. If i was to make another one, I would like it to be able to reach the tool bit in the final position. Now i set the tool height , then swivel the tool holder to align the tool cutter to the work piece and finally lock down the lantern tool post. I wish the leveling tool could measure at this point, when all is done and ready to go. So that it one of the reason I don't use it that often.
It would be easy to make a base with the level mounted to it. There is enough room on the lathe apron for a base to roam around to find and locate the cutter tip.

 

[Susquatch]

For a lantern tool post setup .004" is plenty good enough. If i was to make another one, I would like it to be able to reach the tool bit in the final position. Now i set the tool height , then swivel the tool holder to align the tool cutter to the work piece and finally lock down the lantern tool post. I wish the leveling tool could measure at this point, when all is done and ready to go. So that it one of the reason I don't use it that often.
It would be easy to make a base with the level mounted to it. There is enough room on the lathe apron for a base to roam around to find and locate the cutter tip.

The reason I asked about precision is to explore the possibity of making one like that for an Aloris Style Toolpost.

 

[jcdammeyer]

Free CAD Designs, Files & 3D Models | The GrabCAD Community Library

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Mini Lathe Tool Height Setter w/ Wallmount by mrfansworth

I redesigned this to work with a standard mini lathe (8x10,14,16) to utilize the same size bearing (608) and rod (5/16") with these bubble levels from Amazon:Levels: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095YBPPDNI have also included a wall mount to hang this tool for storage.Both can be printed without...

www.thingiverse.com

Lathe - tool height setter by Jan Pravda | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Easy setter for lathe tooling | Download free 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

Lathe Cutter Centering Tool by NeverDun

Most current version here:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5447842This is a tool for adjusting your cutters to the rotational axis of your lathe. This will help to prevent breakage from facing with a tool set too high, or poor surface finish with the tool set too low, or too high.

www.thingiverse.com

 

[jcdammeyer]

I can't remember where I posted the bit about making a replacement puzzle piece but the owner of the puzzle sent me this photo. They printed the appropriate colours and glued it onto the piece.

Now it's a Find Waldo kind of thing.

 

[David]

2 o'clock from the word Diemos

 

[jcdammeyer]

2 o'clock from the word Diemos

You probably found the original photo I posted that showed where it was right?

"Edit: Ah Posting #90 in this thread"

Actually though you are correct. It's just a slightly different shade. Even has a tinge of white on the bottom connecting to the next piece. Very impressive. Especially since what the camera captures with ambient light and what we see may create a slightly different shade.

 

[PeterT]

I made some 3DP chuck stops similar to the aluminum ones you see with magnets. The magnets are so they stick to the chuck & also when you stack together. I decided to omit magnets which I kind of hate around tooling anyways & just print some in progressive graduated depths. Usually you are pressing the part into the stop/chuck anyways kind of like a conventional parallel. You can see there is a crack of daylight between 2 faces. 3DP's are not perfect. I increased the layer count on the faces to give me extra sacrificial material to trim parallel & true. PLA actually machines quite nice. And if you happen to drill a hole into one, oh well, print another & eat the 50 cents or whatever.

 

[PeterT]

This is more of a generic tester but so far seems to work well. I wanted a lid for a typical compartment tray like holding end mills or taps or whatever. I've played around with hinges & sliding lids in a slot but they are kind of fiddly. This uses 2 integral clasps which have a positive semi-circle profile that matches a negative relief on the tray side. I made them the same width which serves double duty to prevent the lid form moving laterally. PLA is kind of rigid but I settled on this clasp overhang. The thumbnail clasp is enlarged a bit & I cut a slight ramp slot on the tray to ease engagement. It's quite secure but you can get it off with your thumbnail. Its semi-parametric. Once I come up with a tray layout the lid & clasps just update automatically.

 

[PeterT]

2 sizes of boxes to play with

 

[pdentrem]

Peter T
I did a remix to add finger groove and scaled it to fit 1/2" end mills. Currently printing it now and hope I did it right!
Pierre

 

[MrWhoopee]

Tachometer mount and variable speed potentiometer bracket for SB Heavy 10.

 

[PeterT]

@pdentrem the finger groove slot is a good idea. Other trays have that feature, must be for a good reason. I was kind of focusing on the lid & clasp but there is room for improvement,

I have not done much STL manipulation. Obviously you were able to make the oblique cut for the finger groove. What app are you using?
I assume you 'scaled up' the STL to accommodate 0.5" EMs? So, I'm guessing that makes everything proportionately thicker? If so, the clasp body will grow a bit too so the latching action it might feel a bit stiffer (whereas I keep my latch the same dimensions regardless of box size). I think on that one I made the slot 12mm wide x 12mm deep (0.472") just as a nominal size for 10mm shank so it might not be a big change. And who knows, maybe PLA varies a bit & yours may feel different than mine. Anyway if it doesn't work out & you want something custom, no problem.

 

[pdentrem]

I imported into Prusaslicer 2.9.2 and added a negative part to make the finger groove and scaled to size. Yes the walls get thicker as I went 125% in X and Y. I printed the top and case at the same time. Took about 2+ hours. The latch system is a bit funky as you have to set it on the correct way.
Pierre

 

[PeterT]

The latch system is a bit funky as you have to set it on the correct way.

The (slightly larger) front latch corresponds to the slot with the tapered entry ramp. To put lid on, first engage the 'rear' latch into its slot, close the lid kind of hinging on that until the front latch clicks into position (assisted entry by the ramp). The front latch is slightly enlarged for your thumbnail for removal. Like I say, yours may feel a bit different (stiffer) if the latch arm got made bigger by % enlargement.

 

[pdentrem]

I will see how it goes once I finish a second tray. I believe having both sides the same will remove the possible failure in the future. I like the design.
Pierre