No worries!Don't have anything large enough to measure these pulleys with
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RF30 Basement Install
- Thread starter YYCHM
- Start date
DPittman
Ultra Member
Ya but the milling looks good.
I used one to find the centers of my off center punch marks LOL. Those electronic edge finders? Are they just touch off or do they need to be rotating as well?
Johnwa
Ultra Member
I’m not sure what sort of edge finder you’re referring to. I have one that I’ve never used that lights up when you touch an edge. I think it would be wise to touch off, rotate the spindle 180 degrees and touch off again. This compensates for any bend in the indicator.
when I need something better than close enough I use an endmill and a piece of paper.
when I need something better than close enough I use an endmill and a piece of paper.
Woha, I didn't realize those electronic ones were $50!
I have one of these https://www.busybeetools.com/products/edge-and-centre-finder-1-2in-dia.html and it's been working fine for me on my variable speed mini. The question is can I use it at 800 RPM with out destroying it?
DPittman
Ultra Member
Why would you need to use it at 800 rpm? I wouldn't think it would not hurt it tho.
Just to avoid a belt change LOL. So you think it's ok at 800 RPM or not?
DPittman
Ultra Member
Ah yes the fun of belt changes. Yes I think it would be okay but I probably have less milling experience than you! Matter of fact I think those finders probably work better at high speed than real low. Let's let someone else be the guide on this one.
i use mine at 1000 - 1200 rpm normally. Works fine. if I am too lazy to decrease the rpm, it will do fine at 1600 as well... Have been for years with the same one. Came from a tool buy, probably BB, “GROZ” branded one. I also have two “good ones” (Starrett), no difference in accuracy. my daily user is the GROZ.
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Looks like my holes are off a bit
if they are functional - job done.
Maybe an issue with backlash? Or not compensating for it? (Probably not the case, as you state that you had scribe lines...). If you make another set, mill the “T” first and then put in the holes - gives you a chance to “cheat“ them into center. Meaning: use a spot drill and just put a dimple, check for center by measuring edge-to-dimple from both sides. If it is off, move half the difference. Re-dimple. Check again. Drill your holes.
I kind of shot myself in the foot from square one by not squaring off the ends of the stock before attempting to scribe in the centers. The stock was a little trapezoidal. The two nuts that came from the center of the stock aren't all that bad. The four I got from the ends..... well not so good. Milling the T and then finding the centers is a better way to go all right.
that would explain a lot. For sure, squaring off stock is pretty much standard operating procedure. If you start with cold rolled stock, you may be able to get away without first squaring all surfaces as it is pretty close from factory if it is a non-critical portion of the part. Like in the case of T-nuts, the two bottom faces (the widest part of the “T”).
historicalarms
Ultra Member
As I've stated before, I abhor belt changes on my machine and can commiserate with Craig's 3 post in less than a week of first using his machine on belt change hesitations.
Basically I avoided belt changes by turning my mill at about 2-300 rpm no mater what size tool I use or what material I'm cutting. Slows down my jobs a bit all the time but I just cant see taking 30 minutes to change belt positions to save 10 minutes on a 20 minute job and then 30 minutes to change back again...and I notice a significant lessening of turning HSS endmills blue mid-job LOL.
Craig, I checked my mill speed chart and it is the same as yours that is in the photo.
30 minutes to change belt positions?
How can it take that long?
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