first of all, I don't agree that a 150-$ 200 Kurtz type clone is unusable junk, I quite happily use mine most every day I'm in the shop. It does have a .0005 lift to the movable jaw when tightening but that is well within the tolerances of anything I have had to do so far. Not sure how much lift an OEM Kurtz will have, but moveabilty tolerances would require a bit but closer manufacturing tolerances should be tighter for that kind of money difference. Strength-wise & rigidity, I cant see $50 difference let alone many hundreds.
I brought the re-positioning timeline to a more acceptable level in my BB purchased Kurtz clone with a couple easy mods.
first of all you want to attach a square steel bar to the rotator base of your vice as close as square as you can get between the bolt-down lugs of the base. This bar must be a tight "friction fit" to the T-Slot openings in your table (mine was .625 exactly and requires a bit of a "pry" to remove from the slots)). this bar does not need to be a 0-0 trammel to the bolt lockdowns but as close as you can easily get it.
Now inspect the base for the meatiest part of the frame, you will need to know where this is shortly.
Now install the vise to your table and lock the base down, leave the top of vise to rotate as needed to trammel the stationary jaw as close to ") as you can get...disregaurd the deg. markings on the base as they are pretty much meaningless, now lock that to the base with the top locking bolts.
Now, (mine is drilled as close to the top locking bolts as I could get without interfering with their operation) at the meatiest spot in rotational part of the frame of the top of the 1/2 of the vice that also hits a meaty part of the base casting, drill a straight true, hole through both halves ( I used 1/4 inch in mine). Now insert a 1/4" bolt shank with the threads cut off into the hole...do the same on the other side of the vise jaw, again as close to the lock-down bolt as you can get...insert another bolt. The proper way to do this if you have the equipment & hardware available is to ream a tapered hole to co-inside fit with a tapered pin...
Now I can remove the pins, unlock the top bolts, turn to any angle I desire for a cut & once finished be back to pretty much a "0" tramel within the tolerances of my machinery within 30 seconds.