Restoration/Repairs on a 10" LD Utilathe - Standard Modern

[Marc Moreau]

[QUOTE = "Marc Moreau, poste: 19689, membre: 1718"] [/ QUOTE]
Wow de toute beauté

 

[Marc Moreau]

Si vous avez des conseils ou vidéos sur ce projet je voudrais toutes les voir. Il devrait y avoir beaucoup d'heures de travaille pour avoir réalisé ce projet. Merci de partager avec nous.

 

[Brent H]

Merci Marc pour les compliments, oui, il a fallu du temps pour que le tour fonctionne correctement. J'ai encore des engrenages à fabriquer et d'autres articles.

Je n'ai pas pris de vidéo, merde, ça aurait été intelligent. J'ai plein de photos. Je posterai quelques photos plus tard et verrai si votre tour est le même.



Thank you Marc for the compliments, yes, it has taken a while to get the lathe working properly. I still have some gears to make and other items.

I did not take video, , that would have been smart. I have lots of pictures. I will post some photo's later on and see if your lathe is the same.

 

[Brent H]

So I had a few minutes and a chunk of cast iron so I decided to finish the taper attachment. The last item required for function was the sliding block that rides the taper bar. This needs to be a solid fit with no play so that your taper is accurate. I chose the cast iron as it has lubricity properties and should wear slowly.
The cast iron piece I had was too large and I did not want to waste a bunch of it milling it down. As DavidR8 knows, cast iron is a messy thing. It is also hard and a biotch to cut. I sawed my piece in half using a 4 inch x3/16 slitting saw and spray coolant. It would have been better to slice it with a thinner saw but that is what I had (or bigger). It took a while and I hand fed it slowly.



After that I plowed out the centre with a roughing end mill and then cleaned things up with an1-1/4” end mill. Final width was to be 1.375” for 0.0005” clearance. A snug slide fit. In the middle is a 0.040” relief on either side for oil to collect and allow a nice slide. This was milled in with a 1/2” end mill.





So it works perfectly! I was able to use it to make a #2 morse Taper for a mandril used in a project for YYC. Adjustment is super easy with an allen key and a stubby 11/16”. The block is a crazy smooth fit and the oil actually gets a suction going so pulling it straight off it tough.
Everything was super great that day until I noticed some play in the lathe compound and it was sticking a bit near the end of its travel..........hmmmmmm

 

[Marc Moreau]

Merci pour les belles photos ,une photo vaut mille mots.

 

[Brent H]

So with regards to the compound - the gib was striking the very corner of the hand wheel bracket and could not tighten up to take out slop. So I ground a bit off of the end to allow clearance. At that point I noticed that the slot in the gib for the the adjustment screw was loose and would allow the gib freedom to move a bit back and forth - so snug when moving into your work and then sloppy when moving back. I decided to do a bit of fitting - well, that showed that the gib needs a whole lot more work than I imagined. A half inch was removed from the small end and a new slot ground in. Then the fitting - this will develop over the next day or so as my prussian blue arrived yesterday with an ink roller.
For fun I wrote to Ryder about a new gib. I received word back this morning: replacement gib $334.76 USD or about $450 CDN

I will be attempting to make my own....

 

[Brent H]

Salut Marc

votre “compond” est-il le même ou votre ”compound” utilise-t-il des “set screws”?

 

[John Conroy]

I think they don't really want to sell you a gib. They would probably have to make one.

Nice work on the lathe Brent. I'm enjoying watching your progress.

 

[RobinHood]

For fun I wrote to Ryder about a new gib. I received word back this morning: replacement gib $334.76 USD or about $450 CDN

I will be attempting to make my own....

Brent, was going to post here how I made my own gib, but did not want to hijack your thread. So I started a new one...

https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/making-a-compound-gib.1902/

 

[Brent H]

Cool RobinHood.

I will follow up on that - my old gib is not good - the angle is off a few degrees and the taper is off 0.020” at least.

 

[Marc Moreau]

So with regards to the compound - the gib was striking the very corner of the hand wheel bracket and could not tighten up to take out slop. So I ground a bit off of the end to allow clearance. At that point I noticed that the slot in the gib for the the adjustment screw was loose and would allow the gib freedom to move a bit back and forth - so snug when moving into your work and then sloppy when moving back. I decided to do a bit of fitting - well, that showed that the gib needs a whole lot more work than I imagined. A half inch was removed from the small end and a new slot ground in. Then the fitting - this will develop over the next day or so as my prussian blue arrived yesterday with an ink roller.
Pour le plaisir, j'ai écrit à Ryder à propos d'un nouveau gib. J'ai reçu un mot ce matin: gib de remplacement 334,76 $ USD ou environ 450 $ CDN

Je vais essayer de faire ma propre ...

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View attachment 7539[/CITATION]
la pièce que j'ai de besoin est sur le chariot transversal (cross feed screw ) numéro de pièce 30 (cross feed screw nut ) A-30372 je peut faire presqu'un demi tour complet pour être accoté d'un coté ou l'autre.

 

[Marc Moreau]

The Lathe re-assembled:

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Gear box not yet on on the above pic

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Things that didn't pan out:

Original 3 jaw chuck is pretty much scrap. The jaws would need 100% re-doing and there is damage to the D1-3 spindle pins that make it a bit sketchy to use. I bought new 3 and 4 jaw chucks, machined the back plates and fit them to the lathe. I turned a test shaft and shimmed the head stock in to less than 0.0002" of run out over a 5 inch stick out. The above pic is a quick test turning and it worked out quite well.

The Tail stock needs to be line bored to be on the money. I will be making up some jigs and giving that a go over the next couple months. With the tailstock quill out to 3" it will wobble quite a bit ( over .010") I have a new over size quill I machined up out of some 4140 so I have to thread it (1/2 x10 Tpi ACME LH) and I have the #2 MT already bored. It needs some oil passages and a 1/4" groove for the locking arrangement.

I will be re-making the main gear at some point and will also remake the bronze feed gear and fine/coarse selector rod and the feed bevel gears.

The lathe is running now quite well and although it has a few "more noisy" speeds it is a super great addition to the shop. I have used it to make up some 1" x 14 tpi levelling feet:
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and some lathe chuck keys

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J'ai beaucoup plus de photos et d'autres choses, mais je vais m'arrêter ici --- c'est un jour pluvieux, donc obtenir ce post était un beau projet! [/ QUOTE]
Je ne sais pas si je suis a la bonne place ? comme ont vois sur le chariot transversal (cross feed screw ) numéro 30 dans le livre( cross feed screw nut ) pièce # A-30372 . la pièce n'est pas visible ,elle se trouve au bout de la flèche. si vous savez comment je pourrais l'acheter toute infos est Bienvenue Merci marquemoro@hotmail.com

 

[Marc Moreau]

[QUOTE = "Brent H, poste: 19965, membre: 1269"] Salut Marc

votre «compond» est-il le même ou votre «composé» utiliser-t-il des «vis de réglage»? [/ QUOTE]
Non je pense que j'ai mal identifié ma composante. Moi mon jeux est sur la vis du chariot transversal.

 

[Marc Moreau]

ACME threading, the on going saga.....

Part of my restoration is to make a new tailstock quill and then line bore the tailstock and fit the new quill. I made a quill already out of 4140 and bored in a #2 Morse Taper and then also bored the hole at the aft end for 9/16 -8 LH ACME threads for the existing hand wheel. Cutting those threads in the 4140 ended up a failure as I found that given the right (or wrong really) engagement of the thread feed, it can occasionally lock in about a 1/4 thread out - argh! - yes, that means making a new 1/2 nut assembly at some point. It only takes once and the threads are not really that great .....

Today I proceeded to make a new cross feed nut. This nut is also 9/16-8 LH ACME. The original nut is bronze but I made the new one out of Brass. I machined the nut blank on the mill out of a 1-1/2” piece of round stock that I cut to length and then faced to final length on the lathe. (About 1-3/8”).

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Adding a chamfer:
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After making the blank I marked it for the thread holes (one for the feed screw and one for the cross feed retaining screw. I mounted the blank in the lathe using a dead centre between the punch mark in the blank and the live centre in the tailstock. I then used a dial indicator against the dead centre and adjusted the 4 jaw chuck to remove any run out showing on the dead centre. I drilled out the blank for an OD of about 0.4180”. Then I was off to ACME threading.

The final result:

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J'ai utilisé le fil ACME de la poupée mobile comme guide et il s'adaptait parfaitement, bien ajusté mais fonctionnait d'avant en arrière facilement. La vis d'alimentation croisée était serrée au début, mais une fois sur la partie la plus récente des filetages, elle était bien ajustée.

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Une fois remonté, j'ai vérifié le jeu et celui-ci était passé de 0,025 / 0,030 "à 0,004". Yee Haw !!

J'ai également acheté une nouvelle fraise en bout à 60 ° et je l'ai utilisée pour nettoyer les queues d'aronde de la glissière supérieure. J'ai usiné un total de 0,007 ”d'un côté et 0,004” de l'autre - juste dans le coin serré de la queue de la colombe. D'un côté, j'ai eu quelques zones où l'outil coupait un peu plus que d'autres et les côtés de la queue d'aronde de la glissière supérieure étaient agréables et lisses. Il fonctionne très bien maintenant avec le nouvel écrou et l'usinage de nettoyage.

La prochaine étape sera l'alésage de la contre-pointe ....... [/ QUOTE]
Ceci devrait être la pièce qu'il me faut d'après la photo

 

[Brent H]

Je ne sais pas si je suis a la bonne place ? comme ont vois sur le chariot transversal (cross feed screw ) numéro 30 dans le livre( cross feed screw nut ) pièce # A-30372 . la pièce n'est pas visible ,elle se trouve au bout de la flèche. si vous savez comment je pourrais l'acheter toute infos est Bienvenue Merci

I made this part for my lathe. Is your threaded rod 9/16 -8 Left Hand?

J'ai fait cette pièce pour mon tour. Votre tige filetée 9/16 -8 est-elle gauche?

 

[Marc Moreau]

Oui je pense que c'est en plein ça. Yes I think you have it this part is in cast iron ??? Cette pièce semble être en fonte ???

 

[Brent H]

J'ai fait ma nouvelle en bronze. J'ai un robinet à gauche 9/16 à venir. Je peux t'en faire un nouveau, mais pas avant environ 6 semaines?

I made my new one out of bronze. I have a 9/16 left hand tap coming. I can make you a new one, but not for about 6 weeks ?

 

[Marc Moreau]

J'ai fait ma nouvelle en bronze. J'ai un robinet à gauche 9/16 à venir. Je peux t'en faire un nouveau, mais pas avant environ 6 semaines?

I made my new one out of bronze. I have a 9/16 left hand tap coming. I can make you a new one, but not for about 6 weeks ?

I am gone a try to do it if I fail I let you know Thank You I really appreciate.

 

[Marc Moreau]

The LH ACME 9/16-8 TAP look hard to find ? this tap is not to popular ?

 

[Brent H]

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-1pc-ACM...048975?hash=item4da0033e8f:g:9YcAAOSw9yZdDiPP