• Guest, Help us understand what we can do better in future. Click Here!

Restoration/Repairs on a 10" LD Utilathe - Standard Modern

#1
So a few weeks ago I purchased a 10' LD Standard Modern Utilathe serial number U530. The serial number is a bit like a submarine so I hope this project stays afloat and the lathe doesn't become a dive site somewhere. I have not had much time to do anything with it, basically get it home to the shop and leave for work and so far I have been vicariously making plans and some parts by texting my son and getting him to send me pictures.

Research through all the Standard Modern sites and you tube videos has proven to be somewhat beneficial, however, the 10" Utilathe seems to be somewhat lacking of any accurate detailed description. I have the manual for the 12 x 30 and it has reference to the 10 x 20 - some specifics in the parts section and a few measurements.

If all goes as per plan, I hope to create my own manual for the unit with accurate description and proper parts - with sources. So far I have been able to track down the Gits Oil cups and have those ordered and on the way and I have gone through the bearings (according to the manual) and have been able to find the Oilite bushings, needle bearings, and the SKF roller bearings.

If anyone out there has worked on this particular model, perhaps they can let me know if the bearing list in the manual is accurate - is the Timkin 18720&18790 the "as fitted" bearing/race or is it different - the 12 x 30 is listed with a threaded spindle where as the 10" I have has a D1-3 . Also there is a bearing fitted to the change gearbox upper shaft listed as a 6202-ZZ but this is crossed out and someone penciled in 3204....hmmmm

I am also converting (very slowly) some of the drawings of the 1120 1324 models into autocad so I can possibly machine a few of the parts that are the same. Bigger projects will include making a taper attachment, steady rest and other items :)

So far I have made up a new cast Iron 2 step drive pulley for the unit and will getting the original 1 hp, 220 volt 3 phase motor cleaned up and ready for action.

I am planning to use a VFD to convert the shop power for 3 phase. I have one on my mill and it works great. The VFD is a 3 Hp rated one so I should also be able to program the ramping to allow for some dynamic breaking when stopping the motor.

There is some minor damage at the face of the compound - will try a repair there and I will be making a new cast iron gib for the cross feed (brass one fitted right now).

If anyone has any advice/knowledge/documentation/parts It would be great!

Here is a couple pictures as set into the shop - nothing done at all

Utilathe Home 2.jpg

Utilathe Top.jpg Utilathe back.jpg
 

RobinHood

Active Member
Premium Member
#2
Hi Brent, have you tried to contact SM to get an electronic manual from them? I have had good success in the past. Just give them the serial number and they should usually be able to send you documents for your specific model and even give you possibly the year of manufacture/shipping year to the first owner of the lathe.

I used to own a 9” Utilathe.

Now I have a SM1120 and a SM1340. The bearings listed in the parts section of the 1340 manual has been accurate.

I completely disassembled and reassembled these three lathes to get years of grime off them in order to bring them back to life. The 9” Utilathe has since been beautifully restored by its current owner.
 
#3
Hey there Robin Hood, Thanks for the intel :)

Yes, I wrote to them and I was sent a manual - same one as I had from on line - it is the 12 x 30 manual and includes parts for the 10 x 20 - the only 2 things not clear on is the spindle bearing as the 12 x 30 came stock with a threaded spindle nose and the 10 x 20 came with a D1-3. Perhaps it is a different bearing than the Timkin 18720 & 18790 in the manual? I believe your 1120 and 1340 have D1-4 spindle noses and the bearings are listed as a Timkin 387A (2) and 384ED - which has conical bearings forward and aft facing. The bearing on the 12x30 is only one direction and from the manual picture it is set to absorb load in the direction of the head stock. The other difference is the manual I have has the 6202 changed to a 3204 which are way different size.? Could be a home modification?

I am off on the ship right now so I will not be able to get at the lathe until Wednesday next week - bummer - was just putting info together and tracking down the parts. All the bearings and little oil cups and a few other things I have found without a problem. I am hoping to build most of the other parts needed if possible - could be an exercise in futility - LOL - but hope to teach my son some machining/fabrication along the way.

IMG_E2751.JPG IMG_2746.JPG IMG_2747.JPG


Those are couple pictures of the pulley that I made out of cast iron - the center is a 1-1/4" piece of steel to a.- give me a bit of a mandrel to turn the piece and b.- I had to fill a void that was in the cast iron. The shaft I machined a few thou oversize and pressed/red loctited it into place. The motor shaft size is 5/8" and I bored that to size after drilling close (19/32). I used a boring bar arrangement with a 3/16" HSS square tool bit to slowly broach a key way. It worked quite well and the fit on a proper electric motor shaft is very nice. I statically balanced the pulley as there was another void on the backside that created a small vibration. Ran it up to 1800 rpm on the lathe and it seems to run quite true. It has a set screw down the center of the small wheel to retain it on the shaft.
 

RobinHood

Active Member
Premium Member
#4
Perhaps it is a different bearing than the Timkin 18720 & 18790 in the manual?
That I don’t know.

Yes, the D1-4 spindles have double 387A cones and a 384ED cup.

Is the 3204 on the output side of the QCGB onto the lead screw? If it is, that makes a lot of sense since a 3204 is a double row angular contact ball bearing. It keeps the lead screw axially located for both LH and RH threading. It could be a factory design change /upgrade from the early serial number models which may have had a 6202 ball bearing initially.

Great job on the step pulley. Looks good.

Getting the kids interested in troubleshooting and machining/fabricating is a great thing as well.
 
#5
So I got home on Wednesday and had a few hours to take a look at things and asses the situation with the lathe. All in all it looks like a few very careless folks attempted to use the lathe but overall it is in good condition for a refirb.

My son and I went at it last night and pretty much stripped it down in a couple hours. I found several Parts list errors - the bearing I was asking about is a 3202 (makes sense for size compared to the original 6202) so the written in 3204 is not correct. The belt is a 5L330 and it looks new on my machine so that is good.

I pulled the entire thing apart and checked everything - the rear spindle bearing was NFG so I ordered all new bearings for the head and it was only $100 including shipping for all skf and timkin bearings. The main spindle bearing is a single race 18790/18720 (a basic wheel bearing) so the the rear spindle bearing is a deep race 6207-2RS with a threaded nut backing it up so you can put some pre-load on the forward Tinkin assembly.

The gears looked very good - very surprising but that was good to see. It does not appear much threading was done on the unit and the thread screw is in great condition. The feed box had some crud in the detents so whoever was using it probably just set it and left it. The feed gears do have some mash wear, I will see what they cost but I might make them later in the lathes life, they still engage ok.

The only bummer is the lathe chuck (6" three jaw D1-3 mount). It dialed in right on the nuts (outer diameter) when I was running tests......BUT....somebody ground the jaws or spun a stone in the jaws as they clamp round stuff almost side ways.....well ....not that bad but a couple degrees. My test piece was out maybe a 1/4 inch at the end. So that is not great and I will need a new chuck - I am going to grind the jaws for the heck of it but it is probably toast. The chuck is a Victoria - made in England, probably original...alas.

Between centers the lathe was bang on and didn't vary over the 20 inch travel. The bed drops over the 20 inches about 0.010" and stays 0.000 across the chuck face so that is pretty decent for a lathe as old or older than me :).

I will get pictures up at some point. Trying to get things fixed and back all running as I have a few projects on the go...LOL. I will also try to get an overhaul manual thing together with an updated parts list - the seals and the Oilite bushings have other numbers now etc. I am stripping the lathe and re-painting close to original grey - I will end up ford tractor grey I think.....maybe pink? LOL

If anyone has one of these and has a question, let me know, I have a lot of pieces right now...haha