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Repair a very old vertical drilling machine

Today, I received the delivery of atomic ash and started the repair work before painting. However, I had no experience and used atomic ash for the first time. I blended too much and soon solidified, which was a lot of waste.

Then found that this is a very not easy job, need skilled technology accumulation to do well, well, this is also a learning opportunity, who can guide the technical points?
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This is really a hard job for me！！
 
a smile said:
The plan is to use cast glue to repair the damage, and then lathe it to maintain its color and strength. But I still want to see a picture of your restored workbench, okay?
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When you say cast glue, do you mean epoxy?

If so, I considered that advice but assumed you would want a steel or cast surface to work on.

What work bench are you referring to? Are you maybe confusing me with someone else?
 
Janger said:
What is ‘atomic ash’? Sounds like a comic book movie! Something is not translating. I think you mean auto body filler?
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The translation tools can be almost as funny as our members!

Glad you asked, cuz I was wondering too. I was thinking maybe epoxy.
 
Does the fill need to be completely covered before painting? I find it difficult. It requires very thick coverage
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If I am understanding you correctly, you really only want to fill in the holes to bring them to the same level as the surrounding metal. Once smoothed out and sanded, cover it with primer before final paint.
 
140mower said:
If I am understanding you correctly, you really only want to fill in the holes to bring them to the same level as the surrounding metal. Once smoothed out and sanded, cover it with primer before final paint.
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Yes, you are right!

I tried to apply putty to cover the low spots and pits, but because of the lack of experience, it felt very difficult, difficult to smooth, this is my first time. I will try my best to learn and be perfect
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Have others been hammering on the end of the one shaft to remove the morse tapers? Are you meant to snap the quill back up to remove them? I always liked the slot for the wedge myself.
There is a slot in the barrel where you put in a wedge and tap it to release the taper. Where the two holes are; on the picture of the lathe repairs, that is where the slot is supposed to be. A guy that is an expert with a hammer like the previous operator, probably mushed up the slot, and then welded it up and machined it, drilled the holes for top and bottom of the slot, and then decided it was too much work to hand cut the web between the holes, so you got no slot. A mill will do the slot quickly.


Bandit said:
Wow on the table! Never seen one that bad! ( I know, sheltered life). Not sure if I would heat the whole thing and fill with brazing rod or bolt another piece of plate on it and machine flat, would machine flat after brazing anyway.
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I'd hunt down the guy who did that and push that table up into an area where the sun don't shine. I think adding a plate to the top is probably the best solution. probably 6mm plate is enough.
 
Susquatch said:
I'd just fill the holes with epoxy resurface again on the lathe, and then add a new plate on top of the old one, cut the slots from the back, resurface one more time, and call it done.
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+1

If you can find it at a decent price epoxy with ceramic fill is extra resistant to abrasion.
 
Grind the paint in semi-hardened state
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Fix the defect again
repolish
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repaint
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There are serious orange streaks. Who has encountered the same situation? What's the reason?
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How was it finally resolved?
 
I do not consider myself a paint expert despite running an automotive paint research facility for years. I hate painting.

That said, the issue you are asking about is caused by either using a paint that deliberately wrinkles or more likely by putting on too much paint. You can fix it by sanding it down till its level and then applying MUCH LESS paint in many layers and letting it cure a bit between layers instead of so much at once. If it still wrinkles then you will need to get a different paint.
 
DPittman said:
How can you NOT be an expert if you ran an automotive paint research facility????
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Seems like quite the contradiction doesn't it!

But it's really not. Quite often the experts know more than the fellow that manages the operation. I always tried to learn as much as possible from the real experts but also to appreciate and respect the fact that sometimes the folks who were really good at what they did, didn't want the responsibility of managing the business. It's always good to know enough to know how little you really know.

Sometimes there are people who can do both, but more often than not, they can't.
 
Susquatch said:
I do not consider myself a paint expert despite running an automotive paint research facility for years. I hate painting.

That said, the issue you are asking about is caused by either using a paint that deliberately wrinkles or more likely by putting on too much paint. You can fix it by sanding it down till its level and then applying MUCH LESS paint in many layers and letting it cure a bit between layers instead of so much at once. If it still wrinkles then you will need to get a different paint.
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I think I know the problem, as you said: 1. The last paint didn't cure completely. 2. The coating is too thick.

I still lack enough patience. This paint will take more than a week to cure -------- I just have to wait for it to cure
Thank you very much for your advice
 
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