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Repair a very old vertical drilling machine

Support column (110mm stainless steel tube)
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Welded to floor support plate
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Polished H steel
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Because of the fear of the foundation sinking, a height adjusting screw was added (no concrete foundation was used). The screw is simply restructured from discarded parts
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Wall soldered baseplate perforated M16
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It important to remember that the strength of an I-Beam is mostly determined by the size of the flanges and by their separation, not by the size of the web separating them. The reinforcing plate that you added to the web probably adds very little to the overall strength of the beam. If you calculate the moment of area for the beam, which determines its strength, you will see what I mean.
Actually, fish plating the web is a very effective way to increase strength. Back in the hay-days of heavy hauling here in Ab, the OEM equipment that was available wasnt up to our requirements so hundreds of trucks were double framed or stretched to increase length and the fish plating was always done on the webbing, never was anything added to the flanges , in fact warnings were stenciled to the machines to never alter the outside flanges.
I have owned several "highway spec" truck tractors with "single frame" builds that would never in a hundred years take the stress & punishment we used to subject those fish plated frames too in a heavy haul winch tractor.
 
Actually, fish plating the web is a very effective way to increase strength.

Practical experience is hard to argue with.

Yes, adding to the web adds strength but it is minimal compared to adding to the flanges.

I believe the reason they don't want anyone mucking with the flanges is to avoid weakening them by not understanding their function.

It's the same with floor joists where you are allowed to cut holes for pipes in the web but are not allowed to alter the flanges.

But fundamentally the physics say that the whole point of separating the flanges on an I-beam is to increase the moment of area. Not to add a lot of web strength. Look at any simple truss to see the rest of the story. Here is a great example. The web is nothing compared to the flanges. Their primary function is to separate the flanges to increase the moment of area. It's just a larger scale I-beam.

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Try to use flux-cored electrode to weld ------, which is a disaster, because this kind of welding is the most prone to spark splash, so it has been very rejected, resulting in no use.
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But can only argon arc welding repair
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The final finish, although ugly, welding fastness should be no problem
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That's it for now
 
The purchased spring finally arrived and the lathe made two spring flanges
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borehole
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tapping
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countersink----Screw in
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This spline structure of the drill press is tensioned with a spring, and a lower handle can be added later to facilitate the ejection of the taper bit or taper chuck.

Does anyone know what the back end of the original design was? Does taper shank exit require sliding action or top down?
 
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There is indeed too much to repair, and almost every part needs some degree of repair

Clean the spindle, replace the bearing and assemble it

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Spindle travel limit ring cleaning, grinding, painting reserve
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Replace the lower pressure booster lever
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Found that the original hole was badly damaged, shaking a lot
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Transpose 90 degrees and repunch M16
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Do not waste old holes, use an 18mm drill bit to expand holes
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Milling cutters mill two planes
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Tap for 18mm holes (M20*1.5)
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Screw spring bin rethread and clean the surface
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In peace of mind you will find this is an interesting work, and I will find a lot of room for improvement, the original design can be improved a lot
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The spiral spring has been ordered and is waiting
 
Make a knurled nut in the afternoon
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It was very beautiful, but it didn't clamp and hurt, so I had to rework my teeth


Then replace the broken spring of an electric cow
Purchased a cow spring that turned out to be a little long.
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Only part of it can be cut off
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The front end is softened by high frequency heating and then smoothed

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Moderate elasticity after installation
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In fact, I hope to have a hodgepodge of posts, can journal accounting method, roughly in chronological order to record what has been done, a very long manual record post -----
 
Shaft head annealed, drilled and tapped M8*1(fine teeth). Found that the reed hook was a little long, the Angle grinder cut off some (Figure 2)
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Just have an 80mm diameter round plate in hand, simple lathe processing, find a small bearing, you can use!
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Drill machine top flange cover clamp to the lathe for correction, while cleaning the surface, and finally paint the surface
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I bought four double-headed screws and changed the fixed structure, which used to be a keyway and now has a flat fixed structure, which I think is better than the original design and easier to replace.
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Use the grinder to simply grind it

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Drill machine motor measurement coil is not a problem, but the low speed jitter (feel the symptoms of lack of phase), I hope an electronic engineer to give me a suggestion! thank you
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Maybe there will be other people who have similar symptoms can give me a feedback, we work together to solve it, this is my learning process!
 
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