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Peerless Shaper Basement Install

WOW.... The finish a shaper leaves behind is truly awesome! And.... I wasn't using a "finishing" tool or small DOC.

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That's as square if not squarer than anything I've managed to do on the mill.
 
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Todays sojourn into Shaper Land....

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I setup the shaper to power feed the table z-axis and squared off the ends of my sample. Not near as nice finish but I used a different tool and probably a different feed rate. Found a few glitchy things with the power feed gear train that I need to attend to.
 
What do you guys think of this idea as a means of lifting the shaper stand off it's casters when in use?

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A coupling nut welded to 1" square stock bolted to the leg in two places, of course we would do this to all 4 legs. In order to clear the casters the bottom of the nut has to remain 4" above the floor. What I mocked up in the image represents a 1/2" bolt and I'm thinking that's not good enough or would it be if I placed a block under it to reduce the 4" exposure?

Thoughts?
 
What's the problem you're trying to solve Craig? Stability?

Not so much stability but the fact that the casters flex a little where the mounting stud interfaces with the caster swivel bearings so even with the wheels locked there is a little motion. I think floor locks would solve this but those silly things are quite expensive for what they are.
 
I think it would be fine, the only issue would be the need to crank the all-thread up and down so far. But you could loctite/weld a nut on the end and use a cordless drill to spin it up and down.
 
I think it would be fine, the only issue would be the need to crank the all-thread up and down so far. But you could loctite/weld a nut on the end and use a cordless drill to spin it up and down.

I'd be using bolts not ready rod LOL.
 
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See if you can follow me- cut or make a steel foot, 1-2” diameter maybe 1/4” thick or more. Drill the center out to 5/8”. Weld a G8 bolt from the bottom all inside that 5/8” hole. That leaves you all 6 flats for a wrench.
You may need to cut the threads longer on the bolt but thread on a regular nut then thread the bolt into the coupling nut
Now you can use a wrench to Jack the shaper off the floor and level it how you want it. Then tighten up the jam nut and it should never move
 
We are talking 500+ lbs here? How would a cam lock once it's raised? Got an example?

You could use a piece of round with a flat spot milled in it, the flat spot would be the wheels down position so as you rotate it 180* it extends rising off the flat to the major diameter Raising the wheels. The depth of the flat controls how much it lifts. It wouldn’t be a 500 lb lift as one side is lifting and you probably only need a 1/4” of movement
 
View attachment 14572See if you can follow me- cut or make a steel foot, 1-2” diameter maybe 1/4” thick or more. Drill the center out to 5/8”. Weld a G8 bolt from the bottom all inside that 5/8” hole. That leaves you all 6 flats for a wrench.
You may need to cut the threads longer on the bolt but thread on a regular nut then thread the bolt into the coupling nut
Now you can use a wrench to Jack the shaper off the floor and level it how you want it. Then tighten up the jam nut and it should never move

You lost me with this one LOL......
 
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