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Jswain's active projects

BaitMaster said:
I enjoy this active projects thread. Keep it up.
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Thanks! I'll be getting busy here again with work next week but I still spend a lot of time in the shop! Not much for updates but I spent some time with the 3d printer to do some more organizing.

Designed and printed some mounts for the spray bottles I use then scaled one down to fit my coffee cup, and also some more down to fit aerosols.

They tilt out(I forgot how many degrees, maybe 15?) To let the nozzles clear the wall, and I left it the same for my coffee cup & aerosols, makes grabbing them easy
 

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Susquatch said:
Just when you think there is nothing new to see, somebody says something about something you have never seen. What the heck is a freewheeling handwheel? And what are its advantages?
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The handwheel has a little spring in it on the shaft, and dogs, so to feed or position by hand you put a little inward pressure on the wheel as you turn and it stays engaged with the screw. Let go and it slides clear of the engagement dogs. It only moves a little more than 1/8"
Advantage is that it does not rotate and wind up an airhose or apron tie or the power cord powering the feed motor (like happened to me) as you are under power feed.
 
Ironman said:
Advantage is that it does not rotate and wind up an airhose or apron tie or the power cord powering the feed motor (like happened to me) as you are under power feed.
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Ah, I see. Ya, I broke the power feed on my mill-drill that same way. I didn't notice a pallet standing beside the machine. When the table reached the pallet, the far handle jammed, the drive housing broke and the drive stripped. Since I really didn't want it anyway, I just removed it and pitched it. But I sure was pissed off at myself for letting that happen.

Never saw a handle with dogs like that.
 
Ironman said:
I was sent these handwheels by a guy I know in New York State, I could find out where he got them if you want.
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Much appreciated but not gunna happen. I've already made a regular handwheel for it in preparation to selling the Mill/Drill. It's one too many machines in my shop. The machine isn't worth going to any extra trouble. If I got 500 for it and the floor stand I'd be thrilled. If I was going to keep it, I'd prolly feel differently.
 
Haven't turned any chips in awhile but had a guy who needed some sleeves turned & welded into these engine mounts to put a Celica engine into a rav4.

Two of them needed sleeves to reduce the size of the ID and one needed to be bored larger then have a sleeve welded in. Was pretty fun.

Then some aluminum repair on a sled deck, lip that goes over the tailgate was cracking on 2 portions so some 3" 1/8" aluminum flat bar was Tig welded in to give it some strength.
 

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This was built at work, but why not throw it up. Had to build a stainless sheet metal cover and didn't have a brake.

Built one into the end of the welding table. Bent the 34" ish 20 gauge stainless almost no problem, flexed a little in the middle but for the amount of use it will get probably good enough. Might reinforce the top piece of angle in the middle if needed.
 

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CWret said:
WOW - love the DIY brake.
But mad at you cause now I’m gonna have to build one too. :)
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So easy I may throw one on my welding table too. Hinges were just some 1/2 cold rolled & 1" .250" pipe.

.250" X2" angle for the top and 4" for the bottom. Then I cut about 2.5" out of the horizontal section of the 4" angle to clear stacked bends in opposite directions.

If I were to beef it up I would probably stitch in some 1" solid square tube under the top angle piece, or some 1/2" round bar on top, pushing down in the centre like most of them are.

As is it works pretty deadly though. Bends 1/8" thick 1" flatbar like it isn't there, also did 90 degree bends on around 18" of 16g that was pushing it, but beefed up would be easy

If you slit the backside of the top piece of angle you can use it for boxes as well, as long as they are shorter then the angle
 
Jswain said:
This was built at work, but why not throw it up. Had to build a stainless sheet metal cover and didn't have a brake.

Built one into the end of the welding table.
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Holy Crap. I don't even have a welding table yet! I've been fussy about that. Now I have to be even fussier cuz I need one I can add a brake to. :rolleyes:
 
jorogi said:
Don't worry about a brake Sus, it would never work for you anyway. Could you imagine clearing your welding table off so you coud put a sheet on it for bending ?:confused:
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Good point.......

But maybe that isn't really that big an issue. I figure it will have to go in the barn yard someplace anyway cuz there in no room inside for a table unless a tractor goes outside and that isn't happening. Since an outside table would be visible to the bride from the yard, you can rest assured that it will never have anything on it.

I know it's sacrilege to put a welding table outside, but that's the way it's gunna hafta be. I'm resigned to having a rusty old table someday.

Who else has theirs outside?

Does the rust matter? How about a few big stainless studs on the insides of the 4 legs to put the ground cable on?

And how would a rusty table affect a sheet metal brake?
 
DaveinGuelph said:
That power feed module.... I'm thinking it might be a good alternative for driving the lead screw on my mini-lathe. I just don't like the gear train running off the spindle drive.

How is the one you have working out for you??
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The one I have had been so far flawless. I haven't used it much recently, but after installing I did use it quite a bit.
 
DaveinGuelph said:
I just don't like the gear train running off the spindle drive.
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That is the common way of doing it. A set of gears linking the lead screw to the spindle is an excellent and common way to mechanically achieve an exact thread pitch.

There are electronic (ELS) ways to do it too.
 
Susquatch said:
That is the common way of doing it. A set of gears linking the lead screw to the spindle is an excellent and common way to mechanically achieve an exact thread pitch.

There are electronic (ELS) ways to do it too.
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Yup. I've seen people integrating power feeds for threading but it's complicated programming and I'm not up for that. I'll tap any threads I need and avoid the larger diameter stuff... or use the gears. My machine is underpowered in low-end torque as it is so having the gears off is better - and quieter.

I'm more interested in the "speed and feed" options for achieving smoother finishes. I'm just now learning how how important that is.... it's really tricky to do it manually. So having control over feeding the tool along the workpiece should make for a better finish. That's what I imagine anyways..
 
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