140mower
Don
......hmmm, mine is that way as well.Funny, my S.O. is like that too, I wonder why?
It feels like we might be on the cusp of something here, if I could just put my finger on it......
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JCDammeyer's 42 projects
- Thread starter jcdammeyer
- Start date
It feels like we might be on the cusp of something here, if I could just put my finger on it......
Well fudge!
Went visiting this afternoon. Great visit but my friend only had steel 3/16" tubing which for some reason, even after some cleaning won't let the little ferrule slide on.
But when I got home my 1/8" tube to 1/8" pipe adapters were here. Oh boy. I can then mount those instead....
Yeah right. Turns out my tubing is 4mm not 1/8". You'd think by now I could read a caliper. And it turns out 1/8" tube ID might just be too small to slide the thermister+wires+heatshrink through.
Sigh...
Went visiting this afternoon. Great visit but my friend only had steel 3/16" tubing which for some reason, even after some cleaning won't let the little ferrule slide on.
But when I got home my 1/8" tube to 1/8" pipe adapters were here. Oh boy. I can then mount those instead....
Yeah right. Turns out my tubing is 4mm not 1/8". You'd think by now I could read a caliper. And it turns out 1/8" tube ID might just be too small to slide the thermister+wires+heatshrink through.
Sigh...
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Tried that, turns out fingers break, go figure.......hmmm, mine is that way as well.
It feels like we might be on the cusp of something here, if I could just put my finger on it......
I have ordered from both Amazon and AliExpress extra parts. The 4mm stuff from AliExpress and 3/16" from Amazon. The Amazon parts will be here by Wednesday. Really need to find some copper 3/16" tubing that doesn't come in 25' lengths for $80. The steel is hard to work with.
I guess I should dig out some 1/8" tubing too since now I have 5 fittings for it.
For now, the next part of this project is software for a display board. I have a bunch of these. Normally maybe show ambient temperature and RH. Then flip to inlet/outlet temperature when the compressor is running.
Guess I should think about a 3D printed box for this too.
slow-poke
Ultra Member
I'm also suffering from a minuscule leak that causes the compressor to cycle more often than it should. I'm pretty sure the leaks occur at the quick connect fittings at the various ports. FWIW I searched solenoid valves and based on the comments and forum discussions my conclusion is to avoid the temptation of ordering the readily available valves on Amazon because most work great but only for a SHORT time. Many suggested finding an industrial rated ASCO valve. So quick eBay search found a NOS valve for $10 +$12 shipping 3/4" in and out, 120V coil. Works perfectly so far. ASCO sells a wide variety of these valves with various coils, pressure ratings etc. So some part number decoding (if eBay sourcing) is required to make sure you get what you need.
Interfacing uC to MAINS seems like a common theme for me and I have found using $0.99, "1110" utility or handy boxes useful for this purpose. 3D prototype of mating enclosure that controls the ASCO valve, shown below. Need to print with UV-94 filament or machine from aluminum. Hazardous voltage below, and low voltage above.
The little board is what I named the MPB board, MultiPurposeBoard. Basically a MEGA328P with isolated I/O and one of those $1, i2c displays. Comes in handy whenever I need a little uC board to do something simple. Just load the Arduino bootloader and few lines of pseudo "Arduino" C and it's up and running. I don't think I spent more than 15 minutes coding this air switch because it was a derivative of a water switch I used a few years back for sprinkler control system.
If you think one of these little MPB boards would be useful (possibly for display purposes). I probably have a spare kicking around, or I could send design files. Let me know if your interested.
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A quick ebay search showed up this valve.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/175555685092 A little pricey.
What's the exact part number of your ASCO valve?
In the past with my older printer I've not has good luck with ABS unless the ambient temperature was above 30C. I haven't tried ABS on the new one yet.
I'm trying to resist buying yet another micro-processor module type. I already have so many including the industrial stuff I've designed myself. In the projects box there ESP8266, ESP32, ESP32-CAM, Arduino's of various flavours, Teensy series etc. Same with displays all the way up to 1080P LCD. Some plug directly onto a BeagleBone Black and have buttons. But are they in a project? Nope.
The only pneumatics I've bought so far came from Princess Auto and all that stuff is set up as the pneumatic control for the mill and power draw bar. But it's all for smaller diameter tube. I don't know if the one on this panel could be used as it looks like 1/8 NPT. Works fine for the two valves that ran the pneumatic butterfly wrench. Too bad the pneumatic wrench didn't work the way I wanted.
These are the air valves I used for wrench ON/OFF and Mechanism DOWN/UP but again all small diameter and not suitable for the entire shop I imagine.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/175555685092 A little pricey.
What's the exact part number of your ASCO valve?
In the past with my older printer I've not has good luck with ABS unless the ambient temperature was above 30C. I haven't tried ABS on the new one yet.
I'm trying to resist buying yet another micro-processor module type. I already have so many including the industrial stuff I've designed myself. In the projects box there ESP8266, ESP32, ESP32-CAM, Arduino's of various flavours, Teensy series etc. Same with displays all the way up to 1080P LCD. Some plug directly onto a BeagleBone Black and have buttons. But are they in a project? Nope.
The only pneumatics I've bought so far came from Princess Auto and all that stuff is set up as the pneumatic control for the mill and power draw bar. But it's all for smaller diameter tube. I don't know if the one on this panel could be used as it looks like 1/8 NPT. Works fine for the two valves that ran the pneumatic butterfly wrench. Too bad the pneumatic wrench didn't work the way I wanted.
These are the air valves I used for wrench ON/OFF and Mechanism DOWN/UP but again all small diameter and not suitable for the entire shop I imagine.
Attachments
Love the box and how you've made it the electrical box cover. Very innovative.
If you ever need to use one of those small relay modules I reverse engineered the schematic for it.
The power supply to the mill is in a 3D printed box but it is only PLA not ABS. I guess that's a no-no?
The top outlet supplies 220VAC to the PC and control electronics. The bottom one to all the motor drives.
It sits on top of the main contactor power distribution.
And gives me a visual indication of voltage and total power drive of each section.
The top outlet supplies 220VAC to the PC and control electronics. The bottom one to all the motor drives.
It sits on top of the main contactor power distribution.
And gives me a visual indication of voltage and total power drive of each section.
slow-poke
Ultra Member
John,
ASCO Red Hat 8210D95, cat #JKF8210D95
Here is a used one, price is good but shipping is high. BTW, they actually sell service kits for these, (if you ever need one, not likely from what I have read )
Most 3D filaments are a no go for MAINS type electrical boxes......
UL-94 V0 filament ..... https://www.amazon.ca/2-85mm-Flame-Retardant-Filament-Polycarbonate/dp/B07YF1CY6P?th=1
Need to find an affordable source?
I imagine your familiar with the routine CSA/ESA flame test. Basically apply a flame for 15 seconds and the DUT must self extinguish. Those safety guys were constantly trying to set our prototypes on fire;-)
ASCO Red Hat 8210D95, cat #JKF8210D95
Here is a used one, price is good but shipping is high. BTW, they actually sell service kits for these, (if you ever need one, not likely from what I have read )
ASCO Red Hat 8210D95 Solenoid 120 Vac | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for ASCO Red Hat 8210D95 Solenoid 120 Vac at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.ca
Most 3D filaments are a no go for MAINS type electrical boxes......
UL-94 V0 filament ..... https://www.amazon.ca/2-85mm-Flame-Retardant-Filament-Polycarbonate/dp/B07YF1CY6P?th=1
Need to find an affordable source?
I imagine your familiar with the routine CSA/ESA flame test. Basically apply a flame for 15 seconds and the DUT must self extinguish. Those safety guys were constantly trying to set our prototypes on fire;-)
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Well way back before 3D printing I bought my 3:1 sheet metal tool and the corner notcher. For making boxes etc. Then came the 3D printing disease... (affliction???)John,
ASCO Red Hat 8210D95, cat #JKF8210D95
Here is a used one, price is good but shipping is high. BTW, they actually sell service kits for these, (if you ever need one, not likely from what I have read )
ASCO Red Hat 8210D95 Solenoid 120 Vac | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for ASCO Red Hat 8210D95 Solenoid 120 Vac at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.ca
Most 3D filaments are a no go for MAINS type electrical boxes......
UL-94 V0 filament ..... https://www.amazon.ca/2-85mm-Flame-Retardant-Filament-Polycarbonate/dp/B07YF1CY6P?th=1
Need to find an affordable source?
I imagine your familiar with the routine CSA/ESA flame test. Basically apply a flame for 15 seconds and the DUT must self extinguish. Those safety guys were constantly trying to set our prototypes on fire;-)
Anyway, you are right! Should really change to either a proper UL-94 filament or make it out of metal. Probably easier to make from metal given this little tidbit on the Amazon site about that filament.
About this item
- 【Industrial PC Filament】 - Please note that PC-FR is industrial PC filament that need a Chamber Temperature of 【90˚C - 100˚C】
Thanks for that heads up. I appreciate it.
My 3/16" ferrels arrived a short time ago. These fit nicely onto the steel tube so the one I had must just not be in great shape.
First step here is to finish the temperature sender for the cold side. Tomorrow the 3/16" fittings arrive from Amazon so I can solder one into the hot side T and get the temperature measuring and display working. After that I'll think about wiring the compressor power and air line shut off.
slow-poke
Ultra Member
John,
It will be interesting to see your test results when everything is metered. I sold my old compressor and temporarily I'm using one of the very small quiet types it's only large enough to blow a little air, fill tires etc. The plan is to find an old 60 Gallon with a 1800RPM motor something with a proven history of longevity that runs a bit slower and then separate the compressor from the tank. Tank will go in the basement electrical room and the compressor will go in the garage. This will require about a 10' run of 3/4" copper and that should help cool the air somewhat and put the noisy portion on the other side of a concrete wall so it should be near silent in the house. I have never hydro tested a tank, however I do have a pressure washer so I will watch a few videos and hopefully not blow anything up.
It will be interesting to see your test results when everything is metered. I sold my old compressor and temporarily I'm using one of the very small quiet types it's only large enough to blow a little air, fill tires etc. The plan is to find an old 60 Gallon with a 1800RPM motor something with a proven history of longevity that runs a bit slower and then separate the compressor from the tank. Tank will go in the basement electrical room and the compressor will go in the garage. This will require about a 10' run of 3/4" copper and that should help cool the air somewhat and put the noisy portion on the other side of a concrete wall so it should be near silent in the house. I have never hydro tested a tank, however I do have a pressure washer so I will watch a few videos and hopefully not blow anything up.
So I managed to get one probe almost completed. I'll need to fill the 3/16" tube with RTV and crimp the end a bit to hold the pressure as discussed before.
The probe is sitting in front of an AM2302 module that reports both temperature and RH via a Raspberry Pi Zero W running an app that talks to the AM2302. Shows temperature is 20.2C. How accurate that is I believe is debatable but good enough for what I'm trying to do.
On the right part of the screen grab is my Battery Interface Module (BIM) Right Hand Connector Pin 5 reading which is also 20.2C.
Because I'm using 1% resistors in this BIMthe reading can vary quite a bit but the software uses an adjustment of value = mX+b where the m and b values are changeable and kept in EEROM. I tweaked the b to move the temperature from 20.9 to 20.3 and now it appears to be tracking rather well.
Once the rest of the parts arrive I'll be able to make up the second probe and then take a stab at measuring inlet and outlet air temperature.
The probe is sitting in front of an AM2302 module that reports both temperature and RH via a Raspberry Pi Zero W running an app that talks to the AM2302. Shows temperature is 20.2C. How accurate that is I believe is debatable but good enough for what I'm trying to do.
On the right part of the screen grab is my Battery Interface Module (BIM) Right Hand Connector Pin 5 reading which is also 20.2C.
Because I'm using 1% resistors in this BIMthe reading can vary quite a bit but the software uses an adjustment of value = mX+b where the m and b values are changeable and kept in EEROM. I tweaked the b to move the temperature from 20.9 to 20.3 and now it appears to be tracking rather well.
Once the rest of the parts arrive I'll be able to make up the second probe and then take a stab at measuring inlet and outlet air temperature.
slow-poke
Ultra Member
Love that snazzy yellow, I need to order a roll of that. We need a 3D porn thread for images like this.
Looking at that stuff today I realized that other than the power supply for the 4th axis drive the rest of the drives and spindle power all comes from a standard steel box with a pair of duplex 220V outlets. Three axis, one spindle is 4 plugs for 4 drives.
I think I need to bring that back through the power measurement module so I can see how much the mill draws in total.
I do know, from the AC Servo Drive display that even the knee which has a 750W motor isn't drawing even close to that amount of power. Can you spell overkill?
I think I need to bring that back through the power measurement module so I can see how much the mill draws in total.
I do know, from the AC Servo Drive display that even the knee which has a 750W motor isn't drawing even close to that amount of power. Can you spell overkill?
What kind of silicone should I use that will block the sense tube pressure and not break down from the high air temperature from the compressor head.
Red, good for 500 deg or so.
Now the next question. Goes from a tube squished into a tube. How the heck will it ever solidify?
Slowly...... LOL!
Just leave the lid of that first tube overnight to get an idea of what slowly really means.
In my experience it stays soft until just before you need to squeeze more out