Yeah I'm going from dim memory from 3 years ago when I sheeted the interior.
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Shop If I had a million+ dollars, I'd build a...
- Thread starter DavidR8
- Start date
Shop
Former Member
Guest
That's what thought and remembered from studying Civil Engineering years ago, though I haven't work in the field for a long time to read the current codes.
@David_R8 , @Chicken lights
I find that double sill plates are often used in wet environments and on cement. Typically, the bottom sill is rot guarded - pressure treat etc.
Chicken - I think your experience is actually quite common. Exterior and load bearing walls are usually only uncovered for very short periods of time so you wouldn't notice the double top plate. But inside non-load bearing walls are left uncovered and renovations are often single top plate too. Basement insulation walls are almost always singles. If that's what we see all the time we naturally accept it as the norm. But I've never seen an exterior wall with only one top plate in my lifetime. They hold the roof rafters up and those damn rafters never line up with the wall studs. In other words, your experience is perfectly valid.
SomeGuy
Hobbyist
Spot on Susquatch.
Though, the sill plate they typically do at least sill gasket or sometimes vapour barrier wrapped around the bottom when it's in contact with concrete. Pressure treated less so on residential structures (since the foundation usually gets it up off the ground high enough), but for sheds and out buildings where it's just slab on grade that's more common.
Also, cement is the stuff used to make concrete...concrete is the mix of cement and aggregates that is used for construction
Brent H
Ultra Member
Here is your basic framing. Single sole plate - pressure treated or protected (sill gasket or plastic) if installed on concrete direct.
Double top plate for exterior walls and joints overlap at corners and where interior walls tie in.
Wall studs are typically 92-5/8” for 8 foot wall framing. Mathematically a stud is pretty much 1-5/8” thick so adding it all up you will get 1-5/8” sill + 92-5/8” + 1-5/8” x 2 top plate = 97-1/2” total wall side. This should allow you to install a full 96” x ? Sheeting onto the wall given roof sheeting may be thicker at 5/8” and thus the roof sheeting is installed and the wall board supports it at the edges and there is some clearance at the sill.
There are a few other options - bracing for walls over 9 feet, continuous studs for high walls etc etc.
Had a good chat with my wife last night.
We are shelving the idea of adding on to the existing garage for a number of reasons.
1) The cost to space gain ratio doesn't make sense. We'd have to build the addition, run a new supply from the pole, change meter location, re-wire the garage, trench to the house, re-do the house panel as a sub off the garage. Another 100-110 sq ft for $20,000 is just not worth it.
2) It would be easier to build a motorcycle storage shed on a concrete pad out front of the garage which will free up the 85 sq ft currently used by the moto.
3) Properly designed, I will be able to house the trash and compost containers and possibly incorporate some lumber storage.
4) We are considering adding a laneway house to the front yard to potentially house an aging parent and then as a rental. We talked about adding a second story to the garage as a rental space but we're not confident that a) the structure could take the load or b) that we'd get permits for it.
We are shelving the idea of adding on to the existing garage for a number of reasons.
1) The cost to space gain ratio doesn't make sense. We'd have to build the addition, run a new supply from the pole, change meter location, re-wire the garage, trench to the house, re-do the house panel as a sub off the garage. Another 100-110 sq ft for $20,000 is just not worth it.
2) It would be easier to build a motorcycle storage shed on a concrete pad out front of the garage which will free up the 85 sq ft currently used by the moto.
3) Properly designed, I will be able to house the trash and compost containers and possibly incorporate some lumber storage.
4) We are considering adding a laneway house to the front yard to potentially house an aging parent and then as a rental. We talked about adding a second story to the garage as a rental space but we're not confident that a) the structure could take the load or b) that we'd get permits for it.
Spot on Susquatch.
Also, cement is the stuff used to make concrete...concrete is the mix of cement and aggregates that is used for construction
Ya ya ya ya...... You best be on the defensive from now on. I'll be watching for the next time you choose to use common street language in future.....
But ya, I agree, technically, it's called concrete.
Or move.
PS - I heard they are selling on the island next to @PaulL. Didn't like the noisy new neighbour.......
Nah, my neighbor runs a sawmill and an excavator. Won't scare him with a bit of shop noise ;-)
All kidding aside - moving was the best solution to my last house problem. It's surprisingly effective.
Yeah we talked about moving too.
At this point moving is not really that appealing to us. Prices here are really nuts, a house with any amount of land is $1.2M - $2M plus.
Ya, but you just want a house with a shop or a barn or even just a bigger garage!
At a minimum, I'd be looking....
DPittman
Ultra Member
Wow is farm land really anywhere near $7500/acre now is Saskatchewan??? I can't believe how farmland prices have become so ridiculous. I think anyone paying crazy high prices doesn't actually think they will recoup the money by farming it but rather by flipping it in to so.eone else that would pay more. Hence the reason I've never been able to farm myself.Move to SK, i will sell you a quarter section for 1.2M, then you can build whatever you want. You may have to convince my daughter to give up some hayland on the deal.
I'm surprised to see that too.
Then again, it's 25k here....... Ridiculous. But near the big cities or flood plains or old swamp it can tip 50k around here. That said, a teeny tiny building lot can be 200k and I imagine way more in the burbs of the mega cities.
Well seems my moto shed may have hit a snag.
Municipal bylaws state:
1) no sheds in front yards. Front yard is classified as the full width of the property including any laneways or driveways.
2) sheds cannot be used for vehicle storage.
I may go talk to someone at the City Hall but it's likely a no-hoper.
Municipal bylaws state:
1) no sheds in front yards. Front yard is classified as the full width of the property including any laneways or driveways.
2) sheds cannot be used for vehicle storage.
I may go talk to someone at the City Hall but it's likely a no-hoper.
Well seems my moto shed may have hit a snag.
Municipal bylaws state:
1) no sheds in front yards. Front yard is classified as the full width of the property including any laneways or driveways.
2) sheds cannot be used for vehicle storage.
I may go talk to someone at the City Hall but it's likely a no-hoper.
What about a lean-to or quasi car-port or drive-in tent?
Yup, this is my next best option @Susquatch
Canadian-made, somewhat local to me on the mainland. I've had one before and they work well. Spendy things though at $455 USD/$600 CDN delivered.
I need to think about this more as I was also hoping to store my motorcycle lift in the shed. Just getting the bike out doesn't really gain me a whole lot.
Blast.
Canadian-made, somewhat local to me on the mainland. I've had one before and they work well. Spendy things though at $455 USD/$600 CDN delivered.
I need to think about this more as I was also hoping to store my motorcycle lift in the shed. Just getting the bike out doesn't really gain me a whole lot.
Blast.
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I’d put cables the cables underground, then there are no restrictions. You could even directional drill them in if you want to not disturb existing structures etc.
