• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

Electric panel questions.

On the left side of the entrance door is a hole with a ground plate. The mast will be directly above this and the panel will be mounted inside the garage between the two points.
 
Really..... they run copper pipe like that for gas eh. I'm surprised. What diameter is the gas line?
 
YYCHM said:
Really..... they run copper pipe like that for gas eh. I'm surprised.
Click to expand...
I was too. When I had ATCO out, they mentioned a manufactured line with risers on each end. This contractor says he likes the soild copper run as there is no mechanic joint. I'm not basing this on fact, but from what I understand there is a crimped connection on the manufactured line when the pipe meets the riser?

It only carries gas at 2 psi. Another piece of info I absorbed.
 
@Perry, I was hoping you could benefit from what I would call a mistake in my garage installation...

At the time I insulated my garage there was no code requirement for drywall in the garage if it was detached. I should have sheathed my walls and ceiling with 3/8 or 1/2 inch plywood instead of drywall. It would have saved hundreds of little annoyances that made installation of cupboards, hangers, and even electrical more difficult in the 'industrial' setting of my garage.

I installed my own ceiling furnace. To do so I installed 1/2" plywood over top of the existing drywall, which worked well. I used the existing gas line, and extended it from the floor to the ceiling...

After having two bad gas installation experiences in the past (water under the bridge) I install all my own gas appliances these days - main furnace, garage furnace and water heaters.

So for your own protection, after the install guy pronounces it 'done' and before you turn it on, go to every joint with a spray bottle of water with a teaspoon of liquid dish detergent, and spray every joint... also meticulously check ever vent joint. I made a mistake with my flue on installing my garage heater, discovered by Janger - but it was quickly and permanently corrected. Anyone can make a mistake! even professional installers...
 
Thank you Dabbler. Good information.

I just picked up a new carbon monoxide/smoke detector this evening when I was at Costco with the thought of the new furnace in the garage.

I have been looking at other options of wall coverings. When I poured the pad, I got the 6 inch curb wall. The idea was to keep the drywall off the floor and gain a little more height. That adds a fair amount to the concrete pad.

An interesting wall covering I found online is pallet walls. Reclaimed wood from pallets. Sure looks good on some of the online photos, but I can only imagine the mess mine would look like. lol

IMG_3409.jpg


IMG_2743-e1360179024315.jpg
 
My garage was already built or I would have had 6-8" curb walls poured. oh well!

I don't know if code right now requires drywall, but a quick call to City of Calgary Development analyst will get you to the answer.

Great idea for a wall, and somewhat free, too -- a lot of work, though...
 
Dabbler said:
@Perry, I was hoping you could benefit from what I would call a mistake in my garage installation...

At the time I insulated my garage there was no code requirement for drywall in the garage if it was detached. I should have sheathed my walls and ceiling with 3/8 or 1/2 inch plywood instead of drywall. It would have saved hundreds of little annoyances that made installation of cupboards, hangers, and even electrical more difficult in the 'industrial' setting of my garage.

I installed my own ceiling furnace. To do so I installed 1/2" plywood over top of the existing drywall, which worked well. I used the existing gas line, and extended it from the floor to the ceiling...

After having two bad gas installation experiences in the past (water under the bridge) I install all my own gas appliances these days - main furnace, garage furnace and water heaters.

So for your own protection, after the install guy pronounces it 'done' and before you turn it on, go to every joint with a spray bottle of water with a teaspoon of liquid dish detergent, and spray every joint... also meticulously check ever vent joint. I made a mistake with my flue on installing my garage heater, discovered by Janger - but it was quickly and permanently corrected. Anyone can make a mistake! even professional installers...
Click to expand...
Just out of curiosity- no worries on fires? I get it’s easier to mount things to plywood (how my shop is), but I’m very cautious using torches inside. Drywall or tin would negate that, but I don’t think I’d want drywall

And not to knock pro’s, but yes they have their off days too. Generally I prefer working with pro’s because they usually make things look easy. We all have those days where you get in a hurry and it’s not your A game
 
@Chicken lights Pallets don't make good firewood do they? :p Good point on the fire hazard. I'm leaning back to drywall.

@YYCHM The copper line has an O.D. of 7/8". No way to check wall thickness. I will ask when they return for part 2 of the install.
 
Mine is insulated with 3/8 ply in my garage and think it helps heating the garage as it doesn’t have 1/2 inch of plaster to heat up as well as attaching things to the wall is a hell of a lot easier.
 
The last gas line I ran was built by atco, was yellow ‘plastic’ with risers. It was built to length and came pressure tested. Simply unroll and lay in trench

That copper intrigues me I have to say.....


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
No progress last week. Maybe this week will be better. Actually there was a little progress from the the week before. The trench work has passed the gas and electrical inspection. Filled the trench in last Saturday and now waiting on the contractors to get the supplies.



So sitting here this evening thinking of my next steps.

The plan is to get a permit and wire the garage myself after the new panels and furnace are in.

I know I need a plug for each car location in the garage.
A plug within 1m of each garage door opener.

Any other code requirements?

How many circuits would you run? I have one external plug on the garage for yard work? Does that need to be on a separate circuit? ( I believe on a house out door plugs need to be on a separate circuit.)


I would like a 240V plug. I do not have any 240V equipment, but you know how that goes. So the question is what type of socket? Current requirements?

I had planned on installing a Nema 14-50 with 6/3 romex for a possible car charger location for down the line. Should I just use this as my 240V source until I need(if ever) a car charger? Do I need more then one 240V plug for possible equipment upgrades?

6/3 Romex is not cheap and I might have to rethink the location of my car charging plug. (The closer to the panel the better).


Good night to do a little reading.
 
I’d have at least 2 240 outlets one for a compressor and one for a welder 3 maybe if your considering a phase converter as well as led lights on the front of the garage that come on at dusk to discourage night crawlers. One of my 240 plugs for the welder is a direct hookup to the panel using a 50’ cable that works well.
 
Funny how life works. I was just offered a 60 gallon compressor (Powerfist) with a sand blasting cabinet. Compressor uses 240V.
 
Tom O said:
I’d have at least 2 240 outlets one for a compressor and one for a welder 3 maybe if your considering a phase converter as well as led lights on the front of the garage that come on at dusk to discourage night crawlers. One of my 240 plugs for the welder is a direct hookup to the panel using a 50’ cable that works well.
Click to expand...
LED lights. I've been reading on those too. This is for the interior. So many choices.

I've got three boxes out front for lighting at the front of the garage. One on each side at the peak of the gable side of the roof for motion sensor lights.
 
I'd suggest 3-50 Amp 240V circuits each on its own breaker (using a 50Amp stove plugs) This allows you to use a compressor, welder or other 240V items without plugging and unplugging. I'd also wire a 240V 20a circuit with at least 3 outlets. This will allow you to use a 240V mill or bandsaw easily. At least 4 circuits for 110V, 2 15Amp and 2 20 amp - and then your car plug ins. (and then of course at least 1 lighting circuit - I have 2 separate lighting circuits...)

When I wired my garage I put in a lot of outlets, and then I just kept needing to add more!
 
My 800ft garage has 3 240v on each wall on 2 separate circuits. I also have two circuits for 120v, per sides. Furnace is on separate one, as is garage opener I never installed. Plus two circuits for outside. I have separate one for compressor. I just got a large panel for a house. Used that as sub panel. I have 4 rows of lights, with 4 switches, not sure how many circuits. Panel is less then half full.

So number of outlets is size dependent - my dad has about half the size of a garage and just 4x 240v, 2 per side, plus one circuit for the compressor.

All my 240v are welder outlets. I hate the fact there are so many standards in North America - it is sooooo much better in EU.

I have lots of outlets but as Dabbler have pointed out even when you think you have overkill.... you don't.
 
Keeping in mind I could rewire the air compressor, but they ran a 15 amp 240v plug for me when I moved into my current shop. There’s so many choices for 240v plugs. Going from memory I have one 110v circuit for lights, one 110v circuit for receptacles and the one 240v for my air compressor. Even with LEDs I’m pretty sure my light circuit is overloaded, I’d be happier with 3 or 4 circuits for lights. But I’m also close to 2000 sq ft.
I ran extra receptacles where I wanted machines and lights and still could use another 5-6 receptacles. Charging stations for cordless tools fill up fast. You’re probably gonna wire and plumb everything you possibly think you’ll ever use, then after using the space for a year or two come up with a wish list of things you’d do differently
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top