• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

DavidR8's shop shenanigans

I took some time over lunch to go over the 4-jaw. There was maybe .0015 difference in pinion height between a free running jaw and a binding jaw. Is that enough to cause binding? Maybe.
I stoned the inside the grooves in the sides of the jaws. I could tell there were high spots.
But there was a tiny ridge in the groove where the jaws ride in the chuck. Because the chuck isn’t hardened I used a file to remove the ridge and that made a tremendous difference.

So onward I go. Glad to see my speed at dialing in a 4-jaw hasn’t been lost. About a minute to get under half thou concentricity.

I was going to do this on the faceplate as @YotaBota did but when I tried to face the faceplate my HSS bit was instantly destroyed. Not sure what why as it seems the faceplate would be cast iron.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9188.jpeg
    IMG_9188.jpeg
    371.2 KB · Views: 8
David_R8 said:
I was going to do this on the faceplate as @YotaBota did but when I tried to face the faceplate my HSS bit was instantly destroyed. Not sure what why as it seems the faceplate would be cast iron.
Click to expand...

Did you really mean hss, or was the tool carbide? The photo has a lot of interrupted cuts.

If you really meant hss, try a much courser (beefier) grind. I have a few 5/8 bar tools that you could never destroy without taking the whole lathe out too.
 
Susquatch said:
Did you really mean hss, or was the tool carbide? The photo has a lot of interrupted cuts.

If you really meant hss, try a much courser (beefier) grind. I have a few 5/8 bar tools that you could never destroy without taking the whole lathe out too.
Click to expand...
Yes I really meant HSS.
I don’t have any carbide tooling but I wouldn’t use carbide in an interrupted cut situation.
 
David_R8 said:
but when I tried to face the faceplate my HSS bit was instantly destroyed.
Click to expand...

David_R8 said:
I don’t have any carbide tooling but I wouldn’t use carbide in an interrupted cut. situation
Click to expand...
Stuff to unpack:

Cast iron can be glass hard. It depends on impurities, how much slag didn't get filterd out during the pour, the cooling time.... and a LOT more.
Carbide *can* be used for interrupted cuts... with care...
-----------


Here's what I'd do in your shoes as you have described it:

I'm assuming you want to shorten the nose .100, for instance:

Mark out .080 on the nose in your lathe using sharpie, dykem, scriber - choose your poison. Take it outside and use an angle grinder to take off the .080 AND lightly chamfer it (yes by hand)

THEN chuck it up and make your accuracy cuts. Take whatever hit on your HSS you get, and keep sharpening it. (good practice?) Some jobs are tedious like that.

FWIW
 
I was going to follow @YotaBota path and mount the backplate to my face plate. But when I tried to true up the faceplate my HSS tool was destroyed. Surface speed was probably too high so that’s on me. It would be an interrupted cut with four 1/2” slots in the faceplate.

My next plan was to dial it in the 4-jaw and part off the extra spigot length.
@Dabbler suggestion of lopping off the extra length with an angle grinder is a good one as it serves two purposes:
1) gets under the glass hard outer layer
2) minimizes the amount of cast iron that has to be removed on the lathe.

Thanks @Dabbler, @YotaBota, @Susquatch for checking in!
 
David_R8 said:
Just an observation: parting on the Clausing is not as nerve wracking as it was on the South Bend. Either it’s more rigid or my technique is better.
Or both I suppose.
Click to expand...

Could be either one. For some reason, cast iron always seemed to part better for me than most steels or stainless. Could be that too.
 
Gotta luv success! We need a "hands clapping" imoge.

Have you had a chance to check the runout?

Just for future reference, what was the parting rpm and what is the diameter of the nose?
 
YotaBota said:
Gotta luv success! We need a "hands clapping" imoge.

Have you had a chance to check the runout?

Just for future reference, what was the parting rpm and what is the diameter of the nose?
Click to expand...
I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.
I parted off at low speed, 95 rpm.

Runout of the backplate is under half thou. Runout measured off the shaft of a new chucking reamer is .003”
Diameter of the nose is 2.36”
 
I got my Bucket Head vacuum on Friday. Snapped it onto a spare 5 gallon bucket and fired it up.
Works fantastic, cleaned up all the swarf from making the change gear bushing and then the cast iron mess from machining the backplate.
Very pleased with the purchase.
 
David_R8 said:
I got my Bucket Head vacuum on Friday. Snapped it onto a spare 5 gallon bucket and fired it up.
Click to expand...

I like my rigid vacuum for swarf but it does have one drawback. It isn't easy to dump the odd shaped container and I only have one bottom for it. A 5 gallon pail would be much easier to use. In fact, a guy could just have a dozen pails for different materials - eg aluminium, brass, steel, stainless, etc. And two or three pails each for aluminum and steel. I can't really do that with the rigid without contaminating the swarf and destroying it's recyclability. In general, I only use the vacuum after cleaning the majority up manually.

So where do I get one of these 5 gallon pail vacuums?
 
David_R8 said:
I bought it online from Home Depot, model number BH01000.
Click to expand...

Ordered it with an extra set of filter bags.

I have some pails, but I'll pickup a few extra used ones next time I'm at the farm supply store.

Then I'll clean up the rigid and dedicate it to other jobs. Maybe even bring it to the house and leave it in the garage.

Thanks @David_R8 !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top