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DavidR8's shop shenanigans

Larry_C9 said:
I don't really have an answer for you not knowing just how your "Banjo" bolts secures the gear. All I can think is that the bolt is not square to the surface it is tightening up to which is causing the movement. You might have to inspect that closely to see if there is some way to make sure it is square to the surface before tightening.
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The bolt in question is the one on the 127/120 gear that holds it to the groove in the Banjo. The two Satelite gears are fixed to the output of the spindle gearbox and the input to the quick change gearbox. So it's only the gear on the banjo that either requires some kind of magic methodology or learns to live a bit of a sloppy life. I was hoping for some magic methodology but failing that, sloppy living it will be.
 
David_R8 said:
I was looking at the stack of change gears and one is a double, 60/20. Looked at the parts diagram and it belongs in the gear train.
View attachment 33442

The 60/20 should be where the left spoked 100/25 tooth gear is now
The 100/25 tooth gear needs to go on the lower arm of the banjo visible behind the gears.
I need to turn a bushing to fit over a 1/2” x 3” bolt for the 60/20 gear to run on.
View attachment 33443
Click to expand...
Looks like you need someone with a lathe?????;)
 
Many thanks to @jcdammeyer for his milling machine and time this morning.
I’m back in business.
Even made some chips of my own. :)
6015966A-253E-4E5E-AEBD-AC06FF8C2638.jpeg
F6ADCF1A-6B28-4396-A2C5-79FCF85ACA59.jpeg
 
And we now know that a 1/2" end mill in a Tormach TTS holder should not be used with aggressive cuts in steel or the TTS holder gets pulled out of the R8 collet. Don't ask....:(
 
We weren't that far out with the speeds although given that these are commercial production speeds it's likely 4 IPM would have been smarter. Especially since we were only using air for cooling.

1681164667201.webp
 
David_R8 said:
Maybe would have been fine with a really sharp tool?
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If was from a set bought at BusyBee probably over 10 years ago. Made in China. It was sharp when we started. I've only used it on Aluminum.
In hindsight (the 20-20 variety) I should have gone upstairs, ran the calculator and cut the RPM and Feed down to 50% of the recommended. And if it's not free machining steel but low carbon steel then 572RPM and 6 IPM more suitable values for production. Our choice of eventually using 3 IPM was a good one. But RPM was also a tad high and that's probably what toasted the HSS tool tips. Maybe not with flood coolant.

So much to learn...
 
jcdammeyer said:
If was from a set bought at BusyBee probably over 10 years ago. Made in China. It was sharp when we started. I've only used it on Aluminum.
In hindsight (the 20-20 variety) I should have gone upstairs, ran the calculator and cut the RPM and Feed down to 50% of the recommended. And if it's not free machining steel but low carbon steel then 572RPM and 6 IPM more suitable values for production. Our choice of eventually using 3 IPM was a good one. But RPM was also a tad high and that's probably what toasted the HSS tool tips. Maybe not with flood coolant.

So much to learn...
Click to expand...
Let me know when you find the free, machining steel! ;)
Yes I think the DoC and feed rate we ended at were good. RPM for a 1/2" mill was probably too high.... :(
Live and learn right?
 
YotaBota said:
Funny how these things just,,,,happen. There he was, minding his own business, having a cup of tea and it just happened, LOL

Did you get the power head version?

@Larry_C9 added the chain drive to raise/lower the head on his machine.
Click to expand...
Hi Mike, That chain drive idea came a fellow on another forum who was having shoulder problems. When my shoulder started acting up due to reaching up to crank the head up and down I got his drawings from the forum and built one myself. It makes running the mill a lot easier. It was a few years ago but I think I could still find the thread it was in if anyone is interested. I added the chain tightener myself.
 
Mike , I found it and started a new thread under links. There is a lot of pages there and he is very good about posting drawings for everything he makes.

Edit: here is the link to the thread with the link
canadianhobbymetalworkers.com

CX601 review and many additions including installing a DRO and lowering the head crank.

https://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/forum/general/68678-cx601-milling-machine The head crank lowering starts at post #56
canadianhobbymetalworkers.com canadianhobbymetalworkers.com
 
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