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DavidR8's shop shenanigans
- Thread starter DavidR8
- Start date
So if that's the case then likely you have to do what my mill instructions told me to do. Run it for a while at each speed going faster and faster. Likely the bearings will get warm. Just make sure they don't get to hot. After that you may even be able to 'tweak' tighten the bearings a bit more. Depends if the chatter etc comes back.
In other words you actually want the bearings to 'wear' a bit. Or maybe the better term is 'break in'
I was just thinking the same thing. I’ve basically just put it back together and started trying to make chips.
I’ll let it run with no load for 30 mins and monitor bearing temps with my IR gun.
Try turning different stock and see if it persists.
^^^ This
Yours wouldn't be the first machine that needs to be used a bit before it "settles in".
My lathe had a break in procedure that I followed and then re-adjusted the bearings again. It's been good ever since.
Any sense of how long I should let it run?
With or without chuck?
It's been a very long time. I think it was 15 minutes at each speed increasing speeds from slowest to fastest.
I don't think it matters if the chuck is installed or not.
I also recall I had to monitor the bearing temp to make sure it didn't get too hot.
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
An approach (was I told, or did I figure out myself? I can't remember!) is to check it every 10 minutes until it stabilizes. Abort, of course if it is not heating, or goes above your set point. Depending on your bearing oil, a reasonable target is 30-35C. If you bet good results ata lower temperature, the stopping is fine - you just don't want to cook your oil or your seals.
Well, if you do, you remember (for now) how it is done. in 10 years, who knows?
Former Member
Guest
RPM go up one setting, go down one setting, can be a harmonic of the material or the machine.
CCMT, don’t recall the nose radius though.
EDIT: Nose radius is 1/64" or .015"
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Tomc938
Ultra Member
I just feel so fortunate to know someone who can afford to buy 24' of copper pipe! Like knowing Bill Gates.
It was only $170 for every thing. And honestly the ball valves were almost half the cost. Seemed better use of money than a $200 desiccant dryer that requires fussing with desiccant beads etc.
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Former Member
Guest
I got my ball valves for $21.00 and bought 6ft of 3/4 for the first leg, and 24ft of 1/2 for the rest.
i have a few left over pieces will to sell cheap at $50.00
i have a few left over pieces will to sell cheap at $50.00
Former Member
Guest
-Try taking a 0.020" depth of cut.
-make sure your insert has no wear
-put your tool so that the lead angle of the insert is 0° or -3°.
Depth of cut and cutting forces
The relationship between nose radius and depth of cut affects vibration tendencies. The radial forces that push the insert away from the cutting surface become more axial as the depth of cut increases.It is preferable to have more axial forces than radial. High radial forces can have a negative effect on the cutting action which can lead to vibration and bad surface finish.
As a general rule of thumb, choose a nose radius that is equal or smaller than the depth of cut.
DPittman
Ultra Member
Has anyone ever heard of safety problems with standard "M" copper used for airlines? There must be thousands of shops across the country with airlines done with M copper and soldered joints. The joints are by far the weakest link in the whole system and I believe they recommend brazed joints for that reason. Just wondering.
I used type L coper for all of my lines and used regular solder. I found out later I should have silver solded the joints.
It's been over 30 years and have never had a problem. Maybe just luck. The system runs at a max of 125 psi.
When I installed my mill I used 1/2" PEX to feed the power draw bar, then reduced down to 1/4" nylon pneumatic hose with push connectors.
It's been over 30 years and have never had a problem. Maybe just luck. The system runs at a max of 125 psi.
When I installed my mill I used 1/2" PEX to feed the power draw bar, then reduced down to 1/4" nylon pneumatic hose with push connectors.
Former Member
Guest
The solder joints now can silver bearing on most lead free versions. If you are using up old leaded plumbing solder well...no such luck.
The primary reason for joint failure is poor joint preparation, insufficient heat so the solder does not flow into the joint correctly.
Silver bearing solder is a little more temp sensitive (electronic and plumbing) requires a little more heat, but not too much more. A significantly narrow temp band for good joints and flow, which is why there are issue.
Most of my current soldering is electronic hand soldering and I go through between 1-4lbs a year depending on the work required. All is lead free.
The primary reason for joint failure is poor joint preparation, insufficient heat so the solder does not flow into the joint correctly.
Silver bearing solder is a little more temp sensitive (electronic and plumbing) requires a little more heat, but not too much more. A significantly narrow temp band for good joints and flow, which is why there are issue.
Most of my current soldering is electronic hand soldering and I go through between 1-4lbs a year depending on the work required. All is lead free.
Yes it is L type