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DavidR8's shop shenanigans

Did some more work on the lathe today.
Managed to reduce the gear noise significantly. Seems the gears are not quite round. I had removed them to clean them and they didn’t go back in the same orientation relative to each other.
I rotated them to feel where they were binding and then drew a line where they intersected. I pulled one off and clocked it around 180 degrees. That did the trick.
Way less noise.
Also started making the T-nut for the QCTP.
 
David_R8 said:
Did some more work on the lathe today.
Managed to reduce the gear noise significantly. Seems the gears are not quite round. I had removed them to clean them and they didn’t go back in the same orientation relative to each other.
I rotated them to feel where they were binding and then drew a line where they intersected. I pulled one off and clocked it around 180 degrees. That did the trick.
Way less noise.
Also started making the T-nut for the QCTP.
Click to expand...
Didn't I already botch up a T-nut for your QCTP? Time to replace it?
 
Susquatch said:
The days that I discovered tap followers and tap drivers totally changed my life!
Click to expand...
Although I'd have to look the precise code up again, spiral taps and a milling machine with collets that have a square hole at the back to keep the tap from turning and CNC to automatically tap are great.

Alternatively a tap held in a tap wrench and a point held in the chuck after the hole is drilled so the point is on center with the hole. Then hand tap.

1699822155223.webp
 
jcdammeyer said:
Alternatively a tap held in a tap wrench and a point held in the chuck after the hole is drilled so the point is on center with the hole. Then hand tap.
Click to expand...

Basically, yes. But a spring loaded follower is better because you don't need to move the quill as the tap progresses. Here are two
of mine:

20231112_160909.jpg


You use them exactly as you describe but the internal spring keeps the point engaged.

I also like these tap drivers. You can use them with a driver or a ratchet. There is one for each size of tap top. The hidden side takes a square driver (1/4, 3/8, 1/2, etc).

20231112_161537.jpg



CNC isn't gunna happen in my shop. I enjoy manual machining and don't want a computer to do it for me and rob me of all my fun.
 
Susquatch said:
Basically, yes. But a spring loaded follower is better because you don't need to move the quill as the tap progresses. Here are two
of mine:

View attachment 40260

You use them exactly as you describe but the internal spring keeps the point engaged.

I also like these tap drivers. You can use them with a driver or a ratchet. There is one for each size of tap top. The hidden side takes a square driver (1/4, 3/8, 1/2, etc).

View attachment 40261


CNC isn't gunna happen in my shop. I enjoy manual machining and don't want a computer to do it for me and rob me of all my fun.
Click to expand...
Well if we're going to show off our toys... I mean tools...
This collet holder is spring loaded at the middle point but the tap section can move up or down. They call it a floating tap holder I think.

So if the mill can be reversed fast enough you just use the quill to bring the tap into the hole and when it reaches the point where you need to reverse, switch directions and let tab back out bringing the quill back out.

I never trusted the quick reverse so I used a handle on the drawbar to turn the spindle and just applied downward pressure.
1699824255224.webp
 
jcdammeyer said:
if we're going to show off our toys... I mean tools...
This collet holder is spring loaded at the middle point but the tap section can move up or down. They call it a floating tap holder I think.
Click to expand...

Touche! VERY NICE!

Ya, trust is earned not given.

I have no access to my drawbar when the spindle is down more than an inch or so. Therefore, I put a wrench on the tap end below the tap follower.

I just recently tried power tapping at @thestelster's advice. I used the reverse on my VFD to kill the direction. It was a good experience.
 
thestelster said:
What??? Don't you have a drum switch...forward-off-reverse. I have them on my lathe and milling machine. I find them indispensable. Much easier to flip a lever than find a tiny button.
Click to expand...

Who says you can't put a humunganoso switch on that "little" digital input?

To be honest, I don't have anything installed yet on the lathe but I'll be using the existing foward/reverse handle on the lathe. I do have a VFD on my mill but no drum switch anymore. All that stuff is run by the VFD. I am planning a big custom drum switch connected to the digital forward reverse switch as well as an e-stop and a speed control all connected to the VFD and all located in a control box up in front of the motor.

I didn't think it was a good idea to interrupt the VFD wiring to the motor with a Drum Switch. Did I miss something there?
 
Susquatch said:
Who says you can't put a humunganoso switch on that "little" digital input?

To be honest, I don't have anything installed yet on the lathe but I'll be using the existing foward/reverse handle on the lathe. I do have a VFD on my mill but no drum switch anymore. All that stuff is run by the VFD. I am planning a big custom drum switch connected to the digital forward reverse switch as well as an e-stop and a speed control all connected to the VFD and all located in a control box up in front of the motor.

I didn't think it was a good idea to interrupt the VFD wiring to the motor with a Drum Switch. Did I miss something there?
Click to expand...
No, no. The drum switch connects into your Input Terminals, then you set the parameters for Forward, stop, reverse.
 

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thestelster said:
No, no. The drum switch connects into your Input Terminals, then you set the parameters for Forward, stop, reverse.
Click to expand...

Ah I see! Yes, that makes perfect sense. I prolly won't use a real drum switch though. Too expensive and I want something more defined anyway.

In case you are wondering, the new 3 phase motor didn't come with a switch of any kind. Just a bunch of wires. So I need to find a good switch. Right now I just use a simple SPDT paddle switch.
 
After I made a new T-nut for my toolpost this morning I managed to make some chips.
I don’t think my spindle bearings are quite snug enough as I get a lot of chatter with a .0100 depth of cut in aluminum.
Will see about addressing it tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
David_R8 said:
After I made a new T-nut for my toolpost this morning I managed to make some chips.
I don’t think my spindle bearings are quite snug enough as I get a lot of chatter with a .100 depth of cut in aluminum.
Will see about addressing it tomorrow.
Click to expand...

0.1"??? Isn't that a bit aggressive:eek:
 
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