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DavidR8's shop shenanigans

Dabbler said:
Before final assembly, try to torque the cap head screws to about 70% of their max torque -- it gives the best stiffness and helps stop them from backing out. For a 3/8" bolt about 37 ft lbs is about right. (grade 8) for metric cap head screws, it is about 25% more.
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For those guessing torque, drill size for threads, clearance holes, shears strength etc, get

iEngineer for your iPhone

 
David_R8 said:
Thanks. I’m very happy with how it turned out.
It’s just bolted together at this point.
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Only you can know if it's needed. If there is any play in the bolts, I'd prolly line everything up and then through pin it too. That way the parts can never shift. Might only need one pin per joint since I don't think the parts can move in more than one plane.
 
@Dabbler does your lathe have this hole drilled across spindle at the end opposite the chuck?
image.jpg
 
Likely for a bar to hold the spindle while you unscrew the chuck. I have to do that by putting it in the back gear to lock the spindle which isn't the healthiest thing to do for the gears.
 
jcdammeyer said:
Likely for a bar to hold the spindle while you unscrew the chuck. I have to do that by putting it in the back gear to lock the spindle which isn't the healthiest thing to do for the gears.
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That's kinda what I figured it was for. Need to files the burrs off the holes or it's going to tear up my new oil seals.
 
Tonight's progress was cleaning out the headstock and installing the seals. Pretty easy really as it was mostly belt dust so it just wiped off with a rag.
Worst part was cleaning a bunch of nasty grease off the gears that drive the change gears.
No pics as I was completely filthy!
 
whydontu said:
Assuming the cross drilled hole will end up outboard of the locknuts, it would be the perfect spot to mount a trigger magnet for a tachometer
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You beat me to it. I was thinking the same thing.

You could also install an inside spider there - or drill 3 more holes for an external 4 jaw one.
 
Susquatch said:
You could also install an inside spider there
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There is just enough external thread to spin a spider onto the end of the spindle. (around a half inch of engagement) Too bad there is less than .100 wall on the around 2 5/8 OD. theat's a little -too little- for a secure thread for a spider.
 
Dabbler said:
There is just enough external thread to spin a spider onto the end of the spindle. (around a half inch of engagement) Too bad there is less than .100 wall on the around 2 5/8 OD. theat's a little -too little- for a secure thread for a spider.
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You have the advantage of knowing the dimensions. I'm just throwing out ideas. My rear spider is well used - not just for gunsmithing. I use long stock all the time and a rear spider comes in really handy for that.

Your external screw on spider is a brilliant idea! The hole could be used as a lock for the spider or a combo rpm sensor. location.
 
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