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Mill? We don’t need no stinkin’ mill.
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Daily Shop Improvement
- Thread starter Janger
- Start date
Mill? We don’t need no stinkin’ mill.
I've been meaning to do this for a year now. The bearing block that supports the tailstock end of the feed rod, lead screw and switch shaft on my lathe has 3 rubber plugs that hold the oil in. Every time I squirt some oil into it at least one of those plugs pops out. Today I made a little bracket and drilled and tapped two M6 holes in the block to hold it over the plugs. It should have been like this from the factory.
No more crawling around on hands and knees looking for a wayward plug.
No more crawling around on hands and knees looking for a wayward plug.
Bloody beautiful. You are so lucky.@CalgaryPT : Here is a pic of the ship doing a buoy - beauty calm day
View attachment 8790
Guys took it from the work barge yesterday - I am not out there treading water - LOL
Marc Moreau
Marc Moreau
Nice picture this should be in your shop.@CalgaryPT : Here is a pic of the ship doing a buoy - beauty calm day
View attachment 8790
Guys took it from the work barge yesterday - I am not out there treading water - LOL
hmmm.. maybe that's the reason my 'dust covers' were bolted on.
John, where does the oil passage travel to on your lathe? I always assumed the galleries were feeding an open (non shielded) side of bearing, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Or one of my bearings is assbackwards?
John, where does the oil passage travel to on your lathe? I always assumed the galleries were feeding an open (non shielded) side of bearing, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Or one of my bearings is assbackwards?
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Looks like yours has 2 separate oil passages to feed the 2 bearings where mine only has 1 passage that feeds the 2 bearings and the switch shaft which has no bearing in either machine. Yours has 1 shielded bearing and 1 rubber sealed bearing which seems strange. They probably removed 1 shield and 1 rubber seal from each bearing to allow oil to reach the inside of both bearings. I don't know what type of bearings are in mine as there is a collar blocking view of them. In the pic #24 and 27 are the collars and #22 are the bearings.With the rubber plugs removed, oil runs
out all 3 shaft holes when I force it into the ball oiler. I'll slide the collars back and have a look later.
Peter, I think your dust covers need to be bolted on because otherwise the lead screw thrust (or the feed rod thrust) would push the bearing out of the support block since they are mounted from the right side. Hard to see from the drawing, but I am guessing there is a stepped bearing journal on each of those shafts that the bearings sit on.
If you look at John’s lathe, the bearings go in from the left side of the support block and a collar mounted on the lead screw / feed rod transmits the thrust onto the bearing. Hence he has just plastic dust caps on the right of the block - that used to “blow out” under lube pressure until he made the mod.
If you look at John’s lathe, the bearings go in from the left side of the support block and a collar mounted on the lead screw / feed rod transmits the thrust onto the bearing. Hence he has just plastic dust caps on the right of the block - that used to “blow out” under lube pressure until he made the mod.
After pulling the bearing collars back I found a disturbing design feature. There is a flat thrust bearing under each collar that pushes shaft axial loads against the block. There was no oil in the bearings and in fact there is no way that oil could get to them. They were coated in some grease. There is no bearing or bushing in the block to deal with the radial loads of the shaft, just the shaft running in the cast iron block but this area is fed oil from the ball oiler. My old lathe was like Peter's. Admittedly a ball bearing is not the best type to deal with axial loads but I think overall that would be better than the design on the new lathe.
I cleaned out the old grease and packed both bearing and the collars with new high quality grease, this is an area that will require periodic maintenance that I would never have know about if not for Peter's question and Robin Hood's observation so thanks guys.
Now I'm thinking about removing the bearing block and enlarging the shaft bores to accept either bronze busings or needle bearings to better deal with radial loads. I'm not sure it's necessary as cast iron is porous and will hold oil but it would add longevity I think. I'll have to ponder that a bit.
I cleaned out the old grease and packed both bearing and the collars with new high quality grease, this is an area that will require periodic maintenance that I would never have know about if not for Peter's question and Robin Hood's observation so thanks guys.
Now I'm thinking about removing the bearing block and enlarging the shaft bores to accept either bronze busings or needle bearings to better deal with radial loads. I'm not sure it's necessary as cast iron is porous and will hold oil but it would add longevity I think. I'll have to ponder that a bit.
So I took Craigs idea here and decided to hold a tool in the dial indicator stand to sharpen it. Seemed like a good idea. But after fooling with it I found holding by hand and bracing my arms on the mill worked more effectively. Note everybody I'm wearing a N95 mask because the carbide dust is bad in your lungs. This diamond wheel John W mentioned is cheap at PA. It works. I used a drill sharpening gauge to make sure the sides were even at the 118Ø angle. You can get those gauges at BB cheap.
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Sorry the photos are all sideways. We have software that rotates the pictures automatically but sometimes it breaks. I'll have to get Josh to fix it. @Jwest7788
Marc Moreau
Marc Moreau
I turn my screen it work.
The worst is that it's intermittent, always takes me a small age to get it working. haha.
On it!
Yesterday I relocated the switch from the left side on my Unisaw to the front rail.
Took bleedin’ forever because working space on the motor was so cramped. Happy it’s done though as reaching around the side to turn the saw off was decidedly unsafe.
Took bleedin’ forever because working space on the motor was so cramped. Happy it’s done though as reaching around the side to turn the saw off was decidedly unsafe.
The shaft bearing block design on my lathe was bugging me so I picked up some bronze bushings from PA today. The feed rod and the switch shaft are both 3/4" OD and the lead screw end is 20mm so I got bushings that are 3/4 ID and 7/8" OD and 1-3/8" long. The OD of the bushing measured .880" so about .005" over 7/8" so I bored all 3 holes to .879" for a .001" interference fit. They fit the two 3/4" shafts with .003" clearance so I bored the lead screw bushing to the same clearance spec. I shortened them to 1" long so the oil passage would not be blocked by the bushings. I had to extend the oil passage to the bottom bore as it was only connected to the top 2 bores originally. The factory drilled passage entry was filled with bondo so I dug it all out to expose a nicely bored hole that that fit a 10mm ball oiler after I was finished with the long drill bit. It turned out well and should last forever.
Well done.
Probably far easier than my ball bearing suggestion.
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I thought about needle roller bearings but I think a bronze bushing is a better solution on a shaft that is not hardened.