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D. Gray D&D - HEAVY DUTY KNURLING TOOL KIT

A HSS threading tool and 250 RPM worked a little better......

TensionRod2.JPG


Still as @RobinHood described it, the stock had a tendency to tear. Multiple spring passes and a wire brush helped clean it up.

There wasn't enough room to deploy my follower rest:(
 
try setting the compound at 60 (30 away from 90). Thats your problem.

The tool looks to have the same issue. Do you have a fishtail gauge?
 
Here is mine set to 29.5 degrees.
 

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Here's a proper 60 degree threading tool and a way to do a quick sanity check. Hopefully this helps.
 

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Hey @YYCHM, it's an easy mistake to make. Those angles scribed on the compound are not relative to the work. They are relative to the cross slide. So you have to take the complementary angle.

Frankly, I always thought it was stupid to be like that, but I don't design lathes.

When I use my compound, I look at my work to see what the angles should be. Not the compound markings. Some guys even use an indicator and trig to set the angle correctly.

The next problem is which way do you go to get 29.5 instead of 30.5. Again, look at the work and it's easy to see which one will clean up the previous pass.

The guys who plunge don't have this problem. But I'm not a plunger - at least not yet!
 
Totally agree with Darin. On my South Bend the 0 degree mark is at the back and hard to see and with the scale on the back side even harder to set. I had to hold my camera phone at arms length with front camera to get an image of the 29.5 degree setting.
Set29_5.jpg

From the side it looks like at some point someone scratched a line. Or it's an accidental scratch. Check your lathe to see if there is a 0 marking at the back.
Set29_5_SideView.jpg

I thought I had one of these for standard 30 degree threads but turns out I have two for ACME; came from KBC Tools. Handy for setting up the tool bit angles and tip width if you want to cut ACME threads.

AcmeThreadGauge.jpg
 
historicalarms said:
chipped a tooth on 2 new endmills.
Click to expand...

You are supposed to bite the tailstock, not an endmill..... ;)

Ya, that old farmer thing is a powerful instinct. I think it's the weather's fault. Gotta get it done before the weather closes in. No time to stop and rest.
 
60dg tool (yours needs to be reground to be 60), ignore the compound angle stuff for 24tpi, it is pointless IMO and experience.

With A60 carbide insert I did this at 400 rpm in O1. 1/4-20 . The parts has M6 on one end, 1/4-20 on the other. Using an ELS so the shoulder isn't frightening, but you can see how SFM affects surface finish with crabide inserts on O1.
 

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gerritv said:
60dg tool (yours needs to be reground to be 60), ignore the compound angle stuff for 24tpi, it is pointless IMO and experience.

With A60 carbide insert I did this at 400 rpm in O1. 1/4-20 . The parts has M6 on one end, 1/4-20 on the other. Using an ELS so the shoulder isn't frightening, but you can see how SFM affects surface finish with crabide inserts on O1.
Click to expand...

Yes with a properly ground tool or a carbide threading insert, you can ignore the compound angle....as long as you ONLY use the cross feed to move the tool, and never touch the dial on the compound. Infeeding with the compound however, does require the correct 29-29.5 angle to get a good thread.

Your threads look great. Do you have a post somewhere about your ELS?
 
No, I didn't post anyting about my ELS, mainly because I don't want to provide support for it. The code is from https://www.chipmaker.ru/topic/97701, comments are in Russian of course. ( I use the auto translate feature in MS Edge, it is good enough to get the gist with some fascinating phrases thrown in :-))
There is a close relative of the code and further details at https://github.com/kachurovskiy/megaels. He is using a slighlty older version than I am but both work.

OTOH I'll be happy to share how I mounted steppers on my KC1022/G0602/G0752 X and Z.

John D of course also has an excellent implementation.
 
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