What was it before threading?
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D. Gray D&D - HEAVY DUTY KNURLING TOOL KIT
- Thread starter YYCHM
- Start date
What was it before threading?
After. The drill rod was 5/16 so 0.3125 before.
Thats what I saw when I zoomed in, and could see something wasn't right.
I've made the same mistake. Its easy enough to do. I did it making a backplate with internal 1.5"/8tpi threads. I caught it early though.
Also, my Emco has radius dials, where my SM has diameter dials. Screwed up a ribbed pulley by moving the tool over for the next rib by half the required distance. Shit happens.
I think your first drawing is correct. Cross slide only sets a consistent reference point. Compound advances the cut. The cut itself is made by the firm tool which owing to the 60 degree advance does not fully clean up the previous pass. So I think it will be a saw tooth cut.
But that's what I see in my mind without standing at the lathe or having the benefit of your amazing drawing skills. Regardless, the right side of the cut will be too shallow and too long, and the left will lopp off some diameter.
Ive said it at least a dozen times now. I really am jealous of how easily and quickly you whip off drawings to support what you say.
Well, it supports the theory, the thread depth should be around 24 thou so you have lost about a 1/4 of the thread diameter just about as predicted with a swag.
That would drive me bonkers.....
I can't wait to install a DRO on my lathe too and leave all that crap behind me.
Good that you were able to make it work (with some mods) Craig.
You’d have to confirm, but I think your compound would swing past the 0* position (ie aligned with the longitudinal axis of the lathe) by some amount. If you did that and then extended the compound, you would gain distance away from the work. All you then need to do is turn the tool post around so the your knurling tool aligns. No need to shorten up a tool holder.
This does reduce the rigidity a bit as the compound is now extended a bit (you mention a requirement for about a 1/2”).
Also, this only works if the TS is not being used to support the work.
You’d have to confirm, but I think your compound would swing past the 0* position (ie aligned with the longitudinal axis of the lathe) by some amount. If you did that and then extended the compound, you would gain distance away from the work. All you then need to do is turn the tool post around so the your knurling tool aligns. No need to shorten up a tool holder.
This does reduce the rigidity a bit as the compound is now extended a bit (you mention a requirement for about a 1/2”).
Also, this only works if the TS is not being used to support the work.
Your second drawing is actually correct, and so is your first description. But I think you mixed them up. Here is the saw tooth. The parts I scribbled on don't get cleaned up by the bit. Of course it wouldn't be that bad because there would be more passes. And of course you still have the longer advance and the lopped off diameter.
Perfect! We all knew you could do it! It's that badger in you!
Ah yes. Because you are advancing the tool for the next pass while still outside the thread zone, then engaging the threading lever at that new DOC. So its making a new cut like the next larger triangle to the left & the in-between area still remains sawtoothy.
gerritv
Gerrit
that is still within the spec for 1A tolerance on 5/16-24 thread. But it is certainly on the loose end of the fit spectrum.
A typical outside diameter of the finished thread would be .3114, Anyway at this point weI am beating this to death, glad you now have a good adjuster rod, and a knurled nut. Because as said earlier, now everything needs a knurl!
DPittman
Ultra Member
Says the guy that doesn't trust digital readouts!
I suppose I could try to justify an exception, but I'd prolly just end up sounding half my age.
So ya, I deserved that.
You made me laugh out loud though!
Sacrificed a tool holder today.....
This is what a 2" piece of round stock looks like with an unmodified tool holder. Just makes it with the cross slide all the way back.
The same stock with the shortened tool holder. Have some wiggle room now.
The shortened tool holder. Should be OK I think.
This is what a 2" piece of round stock looks like with an unmodified tool holder. Just makes it with the cross slide all the way back.
The same stock with the shortened tool holder. Have some wiggle room now.
The shortened tool holder. Should be OK I think.
