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Alexander Deckel SO Clone

Here is the clamp ready to do its job. Prolly overkill, but better overkill now than underkill in hindsight.

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Also got most of the Puller done. Didn't have big enough thick washers, so I decided to make them instead. Cut two 3/8 thick slices off of a 3" log of hot roll. Then used an annular cutter to cut the center out. That was easier than reversing my lathe jaws. Lastly milled out the cut. Easier that setting up a clamp on the bandsaw.

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Just need to locate and drill for the puller bolts tomorrow. Then it's Showtime!
 
Maybe you have. But I think I missed it. How does that work?
Just dab a bit on the shaft right at the bearing/collar you want to remove and then go have lunch....or sex with the wife, or both, whatever uses up about 2 hrs and then come back to it.
It was suggested to my old man by an old "been there, done that" Cat Mechanic in the 60's and since then we have used it to loosen up bearings, gears, and pulleys on some very old farm machinery...we kept a jar of the stuff in every machine tool box back in the day.
Back then, our modus operandi was "if Iodine didnt free it up, it was time for the blue wrench".

First time I have heard of it being used "rust scope screws" and Ive been around scope screws and a lot of "kitchen table gumsmit's" since the 60's.
 
Back then, our modus operandi was "if Iodine didnt free it up, it was time for the blue wrench".

If my puller doesn't move it, I'll have to think on plan B, but it won't be the blue wrench.

Maybe a new casting, good luck with that,

Maybe a machined replacement part,

Maybe a slit saw on the existing S-casting to remove it and then brazing to fix the slit,

Maybe a burial ceremony,

But first things first,
 
Drilled and tapped the puller.

Here it is all hooked up and ready to go......

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I should have looked to see if I had long enough bolts first. These worked, but with barely enough length for 1/4 inch of pull. Wished I had bolts an inch longer. Tightened up the bolts just modestly, put a little heat on the S-Casting, squirted on some more liquid wrench, and then cranked on the bolts some more.

CRACK!!!

It moved!!!


Pulled it the rest of the way, loosened the bolts, moved the clamp another 1/4 inch, rinse and repeat. Bit by bit with creaking noises all the way along, it moved getting looser as it went.

After 4 cycles, I pulled everything off and tried again by hand. A few twists and it got loosy goosy.

Total success!


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No worries about other methods.

All done a half a week early! TAKE THAT @David!!!

Ya ya, I know, it's not the same.....

Happy happy anyway!

Now it's back to refurbishing the grinder.
 
Someday I will learn that I should NEVER put things away. Look what I found in the drawer. Two longer bolts! Fk! That would have made life a lot easier. NEVER hide stuff in drawers. It's a sure recipe for losing it.

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Put some light oil on the slide bar and worked it a bit. Good as new! I'll prolly polish it when I remove it anyway!

Curious about what will happen when I reinstall the clamp bushing and screw.

I might try that BEFORE re-assembly.
 
If the lock collar can move easily inside the hole then all will be fine.

I think I will make sure of that before I reassemble it.

In hind sight, the 6 screw steel clamp was massively overkill. But as I said earlier, overkill is much better than underkill in hindsight. An aluminum clamp with just two screws would have worked. The steel clamp never remotely moved and I never had to gronk on the puller screws. I've moved MUCH WORSE in my time. I think the worst was a huge hinge pin on my big farm disks. I believe I've written about that on the forum when I first joined. It took a custom puller, a giant slide hammer, a drilled port for cooling water in the pin, and a huge oxy/acetylene rosebud on the frame - all stacked together at once. When it let go, it was like a cannon going off!
 
Today I start freeing up the tool holder assembly. It is painted together and frozen up too. But that should be easier to free up than the S-Casting was.

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First I'll find and remove all the locks, then I'll remove the paint on the slides, apply some liquid wrench, and then prolly put it in my bench vise to push/slide the parts along. There is also the 3 ton arbour press and a big 20 ton hydraulic press, but they are a last resort.
 
Do any of you guys have a favorite paint remover for metal? Pretty sure the paint is oil based.

I don't plan to repaint it afterward (I hate painting), but it would be nice to get the paint off of where it shouldn't be - dials, sliding surfaces, threads, etc.

Who does that shit anyway! Sheesh!
 
Side benefit, it kept the rust off :-)
I used to use aricraft spray can paint remover, I think it was from Wurth? Spae-nauer should have it.
The locking screws should have brass buttons under them, hopefully still there and they fall out. Just be careful with compressed air or they will disappear. (no gibs strips is why the buttons are there to protect the dovetails)
 
Side benefit, it kept the rust off :-)
I used to use aricraft spray can paint remover, I think it was from Wurth? Spae-nauer should have it.

Hmmmm. No time to order paint remover. I have today and tomorrow to work on this as much as I want. The wife is driving to St. Catherine's with a flock of other girls for a baby shower.

The locking screws should have brass buttons under them, hopefully still there and they fall out. Just be careful with compressed air or they will disappear. (no gibs strips is why the buttons are there to protect the dovetails)

Nice tip! I would not have noticed and they would have joined the flotsom on the floor!

Thank you!
 
Liquor thinner may work, sometimes a lite sanding to break through the surface can help. Liquor thinner in an ultra sonic cleaner maybe, no heat! Or the ultra sonic with pine sol/etc., or carb cleaner. Coke, the soft drink, will mess up some paints, eg. car hoods or roofs, LOL. NOT SURE WHAT IT WILL DO TO FINE METAL SURFACES.
 
This is a chore from hell. I got all the slides apart using my arbour press and a bunch of custom cut hardwood blocks.

But it would seem that the kids at the college used hammers as well as paint. The slides were all jambed up pretty tight with yielded metal edges. I did some judicious sanding with blocks to remove lips and high spots and I scraped off all the paint with a sharp edge. Nothing I had here would touch the paint. I think it must be a 2-part paint.

Anyway, it's all apart now and just needs some vigorous excercise and maybe some light lapping to break it in again.

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I'm gunna do some paint remover research because I want the paint off of the knurling and the scales where I cannot use a scraper.
 
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