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Alexander Deckel SO Clone

Here is the general idea:

20250720_185213.jpg

The Fusion guys are prolly laughing, but this is my old fashioned 2D ballpoint pen cad system running with a few missing light bulbs.

Here is a 2" puller washer I made for an earlier project. It uses three puller bolts instead of two, but it's the same idea. By mounting the clamp on the bar at one end or the other, the S-Casting can be dragged in either direction just by tightening the puller bolts on the washers.

20250720_185316.jpg

For this job, I'll make my own washers out of much thicker steel so I don't have to worry about them bending. The clamp and the casting should keep the washers from twisting or distorting. The spacing of the two Puller bolts will be set by the size of the casting.

Bedtime now.
 
Pencil CAD is the right tool for this tool. Just sign and date the drawing in case it is patentable. That is harder to do in fusion360 :-)

Maybe do the heat/add liquid wrench cycle a few times while making the mover.
 
Maybe do the heat/add liquid wrench cycle a few times while making the mover.

At 15 cycles now and counting. That sucker is stuck big time!

Clamp cut off, OD turned, ID drilled and bored a smidge oversize so the clamp closes nicely.

20250721_133550.jpg

Gotta tip my hat to @Darren for teaching me to part with courage and conviction. Soooooo nice! Just like cutting butter with a carving knife.

Time to mill, drill, tap, and chop in half. Might put flats on both cap ends to help with bending evenly.

Wife has some honey-do's for me so this might be it for today.
 
We did foliage reduction in the garden this Am so free now.
Some part of your device can be used to make this. It replaces the terrible flag on the main shaft. Details in those MEW articles.
 

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We did foliage reduction in the garden this Am so free now.
Some part of your device can be used to make this. It replaces the terrible flag on the main shaft. Details in those MEW articles.

Looks waaaay better than that flapper/flag thing. More sensitive, better leverage, more solid.

Did another 2 cycles of heat and liquid wrench. No joy.

Your garden is looking good compared to my honey-do tasks.
 
Looks waaaay better than that flapper/flag thing. More sensitive, better leverage, more solid.

Did another 2 cycles of heat and liquid wrench. No joy.

Your garden is looking good compared to my honey-do tasks.
I've had better luck on really really stuck stuff with just using wax. Heat up the part, hold a piece of wax on it and let it melt all over the joint, let it cool and pull it apart. Never really been a fan of the liquid wrench type of products for anything seriously stuck.
 
I've had better luck on really really stuck stuff with just using wax. Heat up the part, hold a piece of wax on it and let it melt all over the joint, let it cool and pull it apart. Never really been a fan of the liquid wrench type of products for anything seriously stuck.
Even candle paraffin works OK, Any petroleum based vax is very "liquidy" when molten. The trick is to create uneven heat - one part that is "outside" - hot , another part that is "inside" is still cold - that we free up these parts
 
Check CLOSELY if there are some hidden set screws or cross pins or some other fixing HW...

There was. It was painted over. But I found it early in the process.

I believe, but do not know for certain, that the shaft was painted, the casting moved out of the way - onto the wet paint, and then painted again.

If my Puller won't move it, I'll have to cut it off. But I have huge confidence in the Puller. Better have! It's gunna take me a week to make!
 
I've had better luck on really really stuck stuff with just using wax. Heat up the part, hold a piece of wax on it and let it melt all over the joint, let it cool and pull it apart. Never really been a fan of the liquid wrench type of products for anything seriously stuck.
This situation is a casting on a round shaft with seals at both ends of the casting. You can't get the seals off without destroying them. And the clearance of casting to shaft is a close sliding fit. Whatever you put into the gap has to be water thin.
 
Wife came out to the shop tonight "I gotta see what you are up to out there. Can't have no other women moving in on my action". She took one look and then pronounced "You are an idiot sometimes. All that work for nothing. All you need is two big pipe wrenches to take that little valve off!".....

All I can say is that it's a damn good thing I was so stunned that I couldn't even laugh. If I had, I would prolly be dead right now......

Also gotta give her credit on two counts. If the bar wasn't polished, she might be right about that. And second, I'd never have thought that she knew what a gas valve looked like. And it really does look like a gas valve!
 
but she is one to something, you have a collar almost made, pipe wrench on that?

And the other wrench goes where........????

More grandkids are here today so I'm not expecting to get much done. But next up is machining the clamp screw bossed, then the screw holes, then tapping.

I setup the coordinates last night and my DRO remembers where it is despite turning off the power so there is a SMALL CHANCE I could get a lot of that done today if the bride takes them places. That would be nice.
 
on the casting with some aluminum sacrificial strips? and heat it up, worst case you make/source new seals.

Perhaps......

But then again, the clamp is the biggest part of this job. The puller is peanuts to make. Basically just two big fat washers with a cut-out to clear the bar and 2 holes in each for the puller bolts. There is virtually no chance that it will harm the casting and virtually no chance that it won't move the casting. So it's the most certain path forward.
 
Supposedly, iodine used to be used to permanently rust scope mounting bolts in place as it is very corrosive.
Sounds kind of like a last ditch effort in this case.
 
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